\ 


\\ 


A 

TOUR 


. 

ff 


G       BRALTAR 

TO 


TANGIER, 

SALLEE, 

MOGODORE, 


SANTA  CRUZ, 


AND 


TARUDANT-, 


AND     THENCE 

07ER  MOUNT  ATLAS  TO  MOROCCO. 

INCLUDING 

A  PARTICULAR  ACCOUNT 

OF     THE 

ROYAL   HAR^M,    &c. 


BY  WILLIAM  LEMPRIERE,  SURGEON. 


Cf)e  CfjirD  OEDition, 

WITH    ADDITIONS    AND    CORRECTIONS* 


PHILADELPHIA: 
PRINTED   BY    T.  DOBSON, 

AT  THE  STONE-HOUSE,  SOUTH  S5COND-STREET> 
M.DCC.XCIV, 


I 

TO 

A 

His  Royal  Higbnefs  Prince  Edward. 


SIR, 

1  HE  diftinguiflied  honour  which 
your  Royal  Highnefs  has  been  pleafed  to 
confer  upon  me,  by  taking  under  your 
auguft  prote&ion  the  firft  Effay  of  a  young 
Author,  is  a  fingular  inftance  of  the  bene 
volence  and  liberality  of  your  Royal  High 
nefs' s  difpofition,  and  will  ever  command  rny 
\varmefl  acknowledgments. 

That  your  Royal  Highnefs  may  e 
uninterrupted   courfe   of  health    and   - 
perity,  and  long  continue  a  bldiing  to  the 
Britifh  Nation,  and  an  honour  to  th 
vice?  is  the  fmcere  wifti  of 

Your  Royal  Highnefs's 

Moil  grateful  fcrvant, 

WILL 


ADVERTISEMENT. 

HPHE  Author  cannot  help  feeling  bimfelf  under 
an  obligation  of  apologifing  for  the  frequent 
egotifins,  which   appear  in  the  courfe  of  tlv. 
lowing  narrative,  and  for  the  (hare  of  it  \ 
his   adventures   neceflarily   occupy.     The  i  . 
will  only  have  the  goodnefs  to  bear  in  mind, 
thefe  tranfactions  are  detailed  merely  with  a 
of  throwing  light  upon  the  character  of  the  pe 
and  the  court,  which  he  has  undertaken  to  d^icrlb :  5 
and  in  this  view,  he  humbly  conceives  that  they 
ferve  better  to  illuitrate  the  manners  and  dlfpof:- 
tions  of  the  Moors,  than  the  moft  laboured 
ticns. 


CONTENTS, 


CONTENTS. 


CHAR     I. 

fyfOTIFES  of  the  Author  for  undertaking  this  Tour. 
— Sail's  from  Gibraltar. — Arrival  at  TANGIER.—— 
Defcription  of  that  Place. — D  -pirturefor  TARU  DAN  r. 
— Injlance  of  Tyranny  exercifed  upon  a  Jew. — S  ate 
of  the  Country  and  Roads. — Mode  of.  living  on  th;fe 
Journeys. — Defc  ripli^  n  of  A.  R  z  i  L  L  A  — Moo  rift  L  uxu- 
ry. — Application  from  a  Variety  of  Patients. — Arrival 
^/LARACHE  page  i 

CHAP.     II. 

'Defcription  of  LARACHE. — A  ^plication  from  a  Number 
of  Patients. — Difeajes  of  the  Country. — Slate  of  Me 
dical  Science  in  MOROCCO. — Curious  Ruin. — Beautiful 
Country. — Encampments  of  the  Arabs  — Mann-rs  and 
Cujloms  of  this  fingular  People* — OppreJJion  of  the  Pto~ 
pie, — Inflames. — Mode  of  jijhing  in  the  Lakes. — 
Sanctuaries. — Moor  if h  Saints. — Anecdotes  iUu  ir alive  of 
ibis  Subject. — Journey  from  MA  MORA  to  SAL  LEE  18 

CHAP.     IIL 

Defcription  of  SAL  LEE. — Piracies. — Curious  Letter  cf 

MULEY  ZIDAN  to  King  CHARLES  I 'Brutal  Con- 

dutt  of  a  Muleteer. — Plan  -feme  B  haviour  of  the  French 
Corful — Defcription  of  RABAT. — Journey  from  RA 
BAT  t$  MoGODORr.-^-/7'/'^/?/  farm. — Ruins  of  ¥  A- 

,  DALA. — DAR  BEYDA  — AZAMORE.  —  M.Ian  holy 
Anecdote  of  an  Eng!i/b  Surgeon. — MAZAGAN.— —  DYN 

MEDINA 


VU1  CONTENTS. 

MEDINA    RABJEA.      SAFFI.      General  Jlate  of  the 
Country.— ~ Defcription  0/*MoGODORE       .      .      .      38 

CHAP.     IV. 

General  View  of  the  Empire  of  MOROCCO. — Situation 
and  Climate. — Provinces. — Soil. — Wonderful  Fertility. 
•—Sea  Ports. — Natural  Productions. — Mines. — Ani 
mals. — Occajional  Famines. — Famine  in  1778. — Ma 
nufactures. — Buildings — Roads. — Population. — Ir.tr  o- 
ducllon  of  Negroes. — MULEY  ISHMAEL — his  Policy. 
— S  i  D  i  MA  HOME  T. — General  Opprej]:on  of  the  People. 
— Merchants 62 

C  A  A  P.     V. 

four ney  from  "M.OGOQORE  to  SANTA  CRUZ. — Some  Ac 
count  of  the  Origin  of  that  Place. — Arrival  at  TARU- 
DANT. —  Introduction  to  the  Prince. — Defcription  of 
his  Palace. — Singular  Reception. — Accommodations^ — 
State  of  the  Prince's  Health. — Abfurd  Prejudices  of  the 
Moors. — Alt  e  real  ion  ivith  the  Prince. — Application 
from  other  Patients. — 'The  Cadi. — Introduction  into  tbs 
Prince's  Harem. — Wives  of  the  Prince. — State  of  the. 
Female  Sex  in  this  Secluded  Situation. — Vifible  amend 
ment  in  the  Princess  Complaint. — His  AJfalilily. — Cka- 
rafttrofthe  Prince  MuLEvAssuLEM.  80 

CHAP.     VI. 

Dcfcrlptwn  O/'TARUPANT. — Country  O/VLED  DE  Now. 
—Markets  for  the  Sale  of  Cattle, — Extraordinary 
Amendment  in  the  Prince's  Complaint. — Great  Cl'Miy 
from  two  Moors.— Singular  Adventure. — The  Prince 
ordered  on  a  Pilgrimage  to  MECCA. — Intcrcejjfan  in 

Favour 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Favour  of  the  Englifa  Captives. — Unsxfeftcd  Order 
to  repair  to  MOROCCO 107 

CHAP.     VII. 

journey  over  Mount  ATLAS  from  TARUDANT  to  MO 
ROCCO. — Retinue. — Dangerous  Paffage  over  Mount 
ATLAS. — Defcription  of  Mcunt  A.Ti*AS.—**NaiuraI 
Produttions. — Animals* — Beautiful  V allies.— Manners 
and  Cujloms  of  the  BREBES. — PtSurffque  Vitws  in 
the  Mountains.  .  .  .  .  .  119 

CHAP.     VIII. 

•al  at  MOROCCO.— -Difficulty  of  obtaining  an  Au 
dience. — Defcription  of  the  Metropolis. — Buildings. — 
tfovfi  of  the  Prims  Mintfter.-^The  Cafi!e.—The  Jew- 

fii*2>t—$t&ti  &f  the  'jews  in  Barbery.  ^dceMnt  of 

JACOB  ATTAL,  th:  Empsror's  Jeivffi  Secretary. — * 
Manners  of  the  Jews  in  Barlary.—^yeiveJ/es. — Drefs* 
i—~ Marriages. — -DifpoJ/tion  for  Intrigue  in  the  jfeiuifh 
Women. — The  Emperor's  Palace  defc riled  .  127 

CHAP.     IX. 

JniroJufiion  to  the  Emperor. — Converfation  'with  hit 
hi?  MoorifJj  Majcjty. — Account  of  the  Emperor  SIDI 

MAHOMET — his   Character — his  extreme  Avarice 

lis  miferalle  Situation. — Anecdotes  relative  to  the  late 
Emperor. — Anecdotes  of  SIDI  MAHOMET — his  De 
ceit  and  Hypocrify — his  Charity. — Pusillanimous  Con- 
chcl  of  the  European  Powers* — Ceremonies  of  the  Court 
of  MOROCCO. — Exatlions  from  Strangers. — Account 
of  the  principal  Officers  of  State. — Character  of  the  late 
Prime  Minifter. — Revenues  of  MOROCCO. — Wealth 

tf 


X  CONTENTS. 

of  the  Emperor^  lefs  than  generally  imagined*— The 
Army  of  the  Emperor — hoiv  commanded — his  Navy. 
— Internal  Government  of  the  Empire. — BafJoaivs. — 
Alcaldes. — Ell  hackum. — Cadi, — Mode  of  admlnlfler- 
ing  Jujlice>\ — Criminal  Punifhments  .  .  .  144 

CHAP.     X. 

Arrival  c/rMuLEY  ABSULEM  at  MOROCCO — his  pom 
pous  Entry. — Adventures  of  ferns  Engltfb  Captives. — 
Account  of  wild  Arals. — Interview  with  the  Prince. — 
Flattering  Expectations— dlfappointed. —  Unworthy  con- 
•luft  of  the  Prince — his  departure  for  MECCA. — Dif- 
agreeaUe  Embarrajfments* — Efforts  of  the  Author  to 
procure  Leave  to  return 187 

CHAP.     XL 

Departure  of  Captain  IRVING. — Infolcnce  of  the  Populace 
to  Cbriftians. — Manners  and  Charafler  of  the  Moors. 
—-Education  of  the  Princes-— -Perfons  and  Drefs  cf  the 
?rs. — Houfcs  and  Furniture. — Ceremonies. — Ccu- 
r'ters* — Anecdotes  illujlrati*ve  of  Moorifb  Cujloms.- — 
Topics  of  Converfailon  at  MOROCCO. — Horf em  an/hip. 
— Mrfic  and  Poetry.  — Religion. — Mofques. — Slavssi 
—Marr  iage&* — Fun  era  If.  -—  Renegadoes .  — —  Car  a  vans 
to  MECCA  and  GUINEA.  .  ,  198 

CHAP.     XII. 

Summons  to  appear  before  the  Emperor — jddm\f]ion  into 
the  Royal  HAREM.  Attendance  on  LALLA  ZARA. — 
Introduction  to  LALLA  BATOOM,  the  chief  Sultana. — 
Introdu&itn  to  LALLA  DOUYAW,  the  favourite  wife 
cf  the  Emperor- — her  BiJlory*—~DeJcr'iption  of  the 

HAREM 


CONTENTS.  XI 

HAREM — its  Economy* — Conculines  of  tie  Emperor. 
— Adventure  and  After -cation  with  one  ofthofe  Ladies. 
— Drefs  of  the  Ladles  In  the  HAREM. — Opinion  of 
the  Moors  concerning  the  Female  Sex. — Emperor's  Chil 
dren. — Drefs,  Manners,  and  Situation  of  phe  Female 
Sex  in  Barbary  .  .  .  .  .248 

CHAP    XIII. 

Duplicity  of  the  Emperor. — Plan  of  the  Author  to  efleft 
his  Emancipation — unfuccefsful.-^-Application  through 
another  Channel. — Curious  Prefent  from  the  Emperor. 
— Striking  Inftance  of  Tyranny. — Perfonal  Applica 
tion  to  the  Emperor. — Traits  of  Defpotifm. — The  Em 
peror's  Dif patches  obtained. — Commiffions  from  the  La 
dies  in  the  Harem. — Anecdotes  of  an  Englijh  Mulatto. 
— Journey  to  BULU  ANE — Defcription  of  that  Fortrefs. 
— Singular  Mode  of  pajjing  the  River.— Arrival  at 
SALLEE — #/  TANGIER. — Prefent  from  the  Emperor. 
— Return  to  Gibraltar  .  .  .  280 

CHAP.     XIV. 

Return  of  the  Author  to  Barbary. — TETUAN Town 

and  Buildings — Port. — Prefent  State  of  the  Empire  of 
MOROCCO  under  MULEY  YAZID. — Anecdotes  rela 
tive  to  his  accejjion. — MULEY  YAZioyi?/*/  to  MECCA 
by  his  Father — his  Return — takes  Rifuge  in  a  Sanc 
tuary. — State  of  the  late  Emptror. — Death  of  SIDI 
MAHOMET.-— Dtffention  among  the  Princes. — MULEY 
HAS  EM  proclaimed  Emperor — retracls  his  P reten 
tions. — Anecdote  relative  to  MULEY  ABDRAHAMAN 
— curious  Letter  from  him  to  MULEY  YAZID. — His 
Submiffion. — Peaceable  EJlallifhment  o/'MvLEY  YA 
ZID. — Depredations  of  the  Arabs. — Perfccutlon  of  the 
Jews. — Death  of  ALCAIDE  ABBAS. — Character  of 
MULEY  YAZID. — Death  of  MULEY  YAZID.  295 


TOUR, 


C  H  A  P.    I. 

Motives  of  the  Author  for  undertaking  this  Tour. — Sai!t 
from  Gibraltar. — Arrm&lat  TANGIER. — Defcriptlon 
of  that  Place. — Departure  for  T  A  R  u  D  A  N  T.  — Injlance 
of  Tyranny  exercifed  upon  a  jfe.<w.~— Stale  of  the  Coun 
try  and  Roads. — Mode  of  living  on  thcfe  Journiss. — 
Defcription  of  ARZ  I  i*LA.*—Moori/b  Luxury. — Appli 
cation  from  a  Variety  of  Patients.-^- Arrival  at  LA- 

RACHE. 

IN  the  month  of  September  1789  a  requeft 
was  forwarded  through  Mr.  Matra,  the  Bri- 
thli  conful  general  at  TANGIER,  to  his  excellency 
General  O'Hara  at  Gibraltar,  from  Muley  Ab- 
fulem,  the  late  emperor  of  Morocco's  favourite 
fon,  the  purport  of  which  was,  to  intreat  his  ex 
cellency  to  fend  a  medical  gentleman  from  the 
garrifon  to  attend  the  prince,  whofe  health  was  at 
that  time  in  a  dangerous  and  declining  flate. 

As  the  term  MULEY  will  frequently  occur  in 
the  fucceeding  pages,  it  may  not  be  improper  to 
flate  in  this  place,  that  it  is  a  title  of  honour,  which 
is  confined  to  the  royal  family  of  Morocco,  and 
is  equivalent  to  that  of  lord,  or  rather  prince,  in 
our  language, 

B  The 


2  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

The  promifes  of  Muley  Abfulem  to  the  con- 
ful  were  fplendid  and  encouraging.  The  peribn 
who  was  to  be  fent  on  this  expedition  was  to  be 
protected  from  every  indignity,  and  to  be  treated 
with  the  utmoft  refpeft.  He  was  to  receive  a 
liberal  reward  for  his  profeffional  exertions  •,  his 
expences  during  his  journey,  and  while  he  ftaid 
in  the  country  were  to  be  punctually  defrayed ; 
and  he  was  to  be  fent  back  without  delay,  when 
ever  his  prefence  fhould  be  required  at  the  gar- 
rifon.  But  the  moft  flattering  circumftance  which 
attended  this  requisition  of  the  Moorifh  prince 
was,  the  releafe  of  certain  Chrifrian  captives  who 
were  at  that  period  detained  in  flavery.  Thefe 
unfortunate  perfons  confifted  of  the  mailer  of  an 
Englifh  veflel  trading  to  Africa,  and  nine  feamen, 
\vho  had  been  wrecked  upon  that  part  of  the  coaft 
which  is  inhabited  by  the  wild  Arabs,  and  were 
carried  into  flavery  by  that  favage  and  mercilefs 
people. 

How  far  thefe  brilliant  aflurances  were  fulfilled, 
•will  appear  in  the  courfe  of  the  following  narra 
tive.  It  is  fufficient  for  the  prefent  to  obferve,  that, 
influenced  by  the  faith  which  the  inhabitants  of 
Europe  are  accuftomed  to  place  in  the  profefTions 
of  perfons  of  rank  and  dignity,  and  ftill  more  im 
pelled  by  that  impetuous  curiofity  which  is  natural 
to  youth,  I  was  eafily  perfuaded  to  embrace  the 
opportunity  of  vifiting  a  region  fo  little  known  to 
European  travellers,  and  to  undertake  this  fingu- 
lar,  and  (as  it  was  generally  regarded)  extremely 
hazardous  fervicc. 

However  difappointed  I  may  have  been  in  my 
hopes  of  pecuniary  advantage  and  emolument,  ftill 

I  can- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  3 

I  cannot  at  this  moment  regret  my  raflinefs,  as  it 
was  confidered  by  many.  In  the  courie  of  my 
vifit  I  had  opportunities  which  no  European  had 
ever  enjoyed  of  becoming  acquainted  with  the  man 
ners,  policy,  cuftoms,  and  character  of  this  fingu- 
hr  people.  The  fanftity  of  the  royal  harem  itielf 
was  laid  open  to  my  infpeftion .  Even  the  dangers 
which  I  encountered,  and  the  anxious  apprehen- 
fions  which  I  occafionally  experienced,  I  can  now 
refleft  upon  with  a  degree  of  emotion  which  is  not 
unpleafant.  The  notes  which  I  made  upon  the  fpot 
I  had  the  pleafure  to  find  proved  interefting  and 
entertaining  to  a  number  of  my  friends.  By  their 
perfuafions  I  have  been  encouraged  to  lay  them  be 
fore  the  public;  and  my  only  and  earneft  wifh  is, 
that  the  reader  may  not  find  his  curiofity  difap- 
pointed,  his  attention  wearied,  or  his  judgment 
difgufted,  by  the  adventures  and  obfervations, 
which,  with  the  moil  perfeft  confcioufnefs  of  my 
own  inability  as  a  writer,  I  fubmit  to  his  infpec- 
tion. 

The  necefRiry  preliminaries  being  fettled,  and 
the  baggage  of  a  ibldier  requiring  no  great  pre 
paration,  I  embarked  at  Gibraltar  the  i4th  Septem 
ber  1 789,  on  board  a  fmall  veflel,  and  in  fix  hours 
arrived  at  Tangier,  where  I  immediately  waited 
on  Mr.  Matra,  whofe  polite  reception  and  kind 
offices  during  the  fix  months  that  I  fpent  in  Bar- 
bary,  claim,  and  ever  will  command,  my  warmeft 
acknowledgements. 

I  foon  learned  that  my  intended  patient  was,  by 

his  father's  command,  at  the  time  of  my  arrival^ 

at  the  head  of  an  army  in  the  mountains  between 

Morocco  and  Taruc&nt,  which  obliged  me  to  re- 

B  2  mail* 


4  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

main  at  Tangier,  till  we  received  certain  intel 
ligence  of  the  prince's  return  to  Tarudant,  his 
ufual  place  of  refidence. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  determine  whether  fur- 
prize  or  regret  was  moft  predominant  in  my  mind 
upon  my  arrival  in  this  country.  The  diftance  is 
ib  trifling,  and  the  tranfition  io  fudden,  that  I  at 
firfl  could  fcarcely  perfuade  myfelf  that  I  was  out 
of  Europe,  till  I  was  convinced  to  the  contrary  by 
the  wonderful  difference  of  people  and  manners 
which  immediately  prefented  itfelf  on  my  entering 
Tangier.  Civilization  in  moll  other  countries  owes 
its  origin  to  a  commercial  intercourfe  with  foreign 
nations  •,  and  there  are  few  parts  of  the  world, 
however  diftant  or  uninformed,  whofe  inhabitants 
have  not,  in  ibme  way  or  other,  fallen  into  the 
manners  of  thofe  foreigners  by  whom  they  are 
vifited.  But  here  this  circumftance  fecms  to  have 
had  not  the  fmalleil  effect  •,  for  though  fituated 
only  eight  leagues  from  Europe,  in  the  habit  of 
a  conflant  communication  with  its  inhabitants,  and 
enjoying  the  advantage  of  a  number  of  foreigners 
refiding  in  the  place,  yet  the  people  of  Tangier 
flill  retain  the  fame  uncultivated  manners,  the  lame 
averfion  to  every  kind  of  mental  improvement  by 
which  the  Moors  have  for  ages  paft  been  fo  juflly 
characterized. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  the  town  and  fortrefs 
of  TANGIER  formerly  conflituted  a  part  of  the 
foreign  dominions  of  Great  Britain.  While  in  the 
pofleilion  of  the  Englifhit  was  a  place  of  confider- 
able  ftrengtb,  but  when  it  was  evacuated  by  the 
orders  of  Charles  II.  the  fortifications  were  de- 
jnolifhed,  and  only  the  vefliges  of  them  are  now 

viiible 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  g 

viable.  There  is  at  prefent  only  a  fmall  fort  in 
tolerable  repair,  which  is  fituated  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  town,  and  a  battery  of  a  few  guns 
which  fronts  the  bay.  From  thefe  c'rcumftances 
it  is  evident  that  it  could  make  only  a  very  weak 
refinance  againft  any  powerful  attack. 
1  The  town,  which  occupies  a  very  fmall  fpace  of 
ground,  and  affords  nothing  remarkable,  is  built 
upon  an  eminence  which  appears  to  rife  out  of  the 
fea,  and  is  furrounded  with  a  wall.  The  land  for 
a  fmall  diflance  round  it  is  laid  out  into  vineyards, 
orchards,  and  corn-fields,  beyond  which  are  tradls 
of  fand,  with  lofty  and  barren  hills.  The  fitua- 
tion  is  therefore  far  from  beautiful  or  agreeable. 
The  houfes.  are  in  general  mean  and  ill  furnifhed, 
the  roofs  are  quite  flat,  and  both  thefe  and  the  walls 
are  entirely  whitened  over;  the  apartments  are 
all  on  the  ground  floor,  as  there  is  no  fecond 
ftory. 

Contrary  to  the  ufual  cuftom  in  Barbary,  the 
Moors  and  Jews  live  intermixed  at  TANGIER, 
and  maintain  a  more  friendly  intercourfe  than 
elfewhere  in  this  quarter  of  the^globe.  The  Jews 
alfo,  in  (lead  of  going  bare-footed  by  compulfion, 
as  at  Morocco,  Tarudant,  and  many  other  places, 
are  only  required  to  do  it  when  paffing  a  ftreet 
where  there  is  a  mofque  or  a  fandluary. 

The  foreign  coniiils  (except  the  French  who 
has  a  houfe  at  Sallee)  refide  at  Tangier.  Be 
fore  the  reign  of  the  late  emperor  Sidi  Mahomet, 
they  were  allowed  to  live  at  Tetuan,  a  town 
greatly  preferable  to  Tangier,  as  well  on  account 
of  the  inhabitants  being  more  civiziled,  as  of  the 
beauty  of  the  adjacent  country,  A  fingular  cir- 
B  3  cumflance 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &€. 

occafioned  the  expnlfion  of  the  Chri- 
Itiaiis  from  that  pleafant  retreat : — An  European 
gentleman  \vas  amufing  himfelf  \vith  fliooting  at 
ibrne  birds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town,  and  acci 
dentally  wounded  an  old  Moorifri  wcman,  who 
unfortunately  happened  to  be  within  reach  of  the 
/hot.  Upon  this  accident  the  late  emperor  fwore 
by  his  beard  that  no  Chriflian  fhould  ever  again 
enter  the  town  of  Tetuan.  It  may  be  neceflary 
to  inform  the  reader  that  this  oath  (by  the  beard) 
is  held  by  the  Moors  in  fuch  folemn  eflimation, 
that  they  are  rarely  obferved  to  violate  it,  nor  \Vas 
the  late  emperor  ever  known  to  disregard  it  in  a 
Imgle  inftance. 

The  fituation  of  confuls,  indeed,  in  this  diftant 
smd  uncivilized  country,  is  by  no  means  to  be  en 
vied  •,  and  the  recompence  which  ihouid  induce 
men  of  liberal  education  to  facrifice  their  native 
comforts  and  advantages  to  fuch  a  fyflem  of  life  as 
is  required  here,  ought  not  to  be  trifling.  They  can 
form  no  fociety  but  among  themfelves  •,  and  even 
the  nniverfally  allowed  law  of  nations  is  frequent- 
infufficient  to  protect  their  perfons  from  infult. 
-Subject  to  the  caprice  of  an  emperor  whofe  conduct 
is  regulated  by  no  law,  and  whofe  mind  is  govern 
ed  by  no  fixed  principle,  they  are  often  ordered  up 
to  court,  and  after  experiencing  a  very  tedious, 
fatiguing  and  expenfive  journey,  they  are  frequent 
ly  fent  back  again  without  having  effected  the 
fmalleft  point  to  the  advantage  of  their  own  coun 
try,  fometimes  indeed  without  even  being  informed 
of  the  purpofe  of  their  journey. 

As  an  alleviation  to  fo  urifociable  a  life,  the 
Englifh,  Swedifh,  and  Daniih  confuls  have  erected 

country 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  ^ 

country  houfes  at  a  fmall  diftance  from  Tangier, 
where  they  occafionally  retire,  and  enjoy  thofe 
amufements  which  the  country  affords.  Theie 
are  chiefly  gardening,  fiihing,  and  hunting.  ^  From 
the  plenty  of  game  of  every  kind  with  which  the 
country  abounds,  and  and  a  total  freedom  from 
any  reflation  with  refpecl  to  it  (for  there  are  no* 
game  laws  in  this  empire)  they  give  a  full  fcope  to 
the  pleafures-of  the  field,  and  endeavour  by  thofe 
means  to  procure  a  fubflitute  for  the  want  of  friend 
ly  and  cheerful  foclety. 

On  the  northern  fide  of  Tangier  is  the  caftie, 
•which  though  very  extenfive,  lies  half  in  ruins.  It 
has  a  royal  treafury,  and  is  the  refidenee  of  the 
governor.  Near  the  water-fide  are  florehoufes 
for  the  refitting  of  veffels,  and  at  this  port  many 
of  the  emperor's  row-gallies  are  built.  A  number 
of  them  alfo  are  generally  laid  up  here,  when  not 
engaged  in  aftual  fervice.  Indeed,  from  its  con 
venient  fituation  with  refpeft  to  the  Straits,  this  is 
the  beft  fea-port  that  he  has  for  employing  to  ad* 
vantage  thefe  fmall  veitels. 

The  bay  is  fufficiently  fpacious,  but  it  is  dange 
rous  for  (hipping  in  a  ftrong  eafterly  wind.  The 
moft  fecure  place  for  anchorage  is  on  the  eaflern 
part  of  the  bay,  about  half  a  mile  from  ftiore,  in 
a  line  with  the  round  tower  and  the  Spanifh  con- 
ful's  houfe,  which  makes  a  very  confpicuous  ap 
pearance  from  the  bay. 

On  the  fouthern  fide  of  the  bay  is  the  river, 
where,  before  it  was  choaked  up  with  fand-banks^ 
the  emperor  ufed  to  winter  his  large  fhips,  which 
he  is  now  obliged  to  fend  to  Larache.  Moft  of 
the  rivers  in  the  emperor's  dominions,  which  were 
B  4  formerly 


8  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

formerly  navigable,  and  well  calculated  for  the 
the  fitting  out  of  veffels,  and  for  the  laying  of 
them  up  in  fafety,  have  now  their  mouths  fo  con 
tinually  filling  with  land,  that  in  a  courfe  of  years 
fmall  fifhing  boats  only  will  be  able  to  enter  them. 
It  has  often  occurred  to  mey  that  an  enquiry  into 
the  frate  of  the  emperor's  navy,  and  in  particular 
into  the  inconvenience  of  his  harbours,  might  be 
an  objeft  of  fome  confequence  to  the  different  Eu 
ropean  powers,  who  now  condefcend  to  pay  a  mofl 
qifgraceful  tribute  to  this  fliadow  of  imperial  dig 
nity. 

Over  the  river  of  Tangier  are  the  ruins  of  an 

ancient  bridge,  fuppofed  to  have  been  erefted  by 

the  Romans.     The  centre  of  it  only  is  deftroyed, 

and  that  does  not  feem  to  be  the  effeft  of  time. 

Jt  more  probably  was  pulled  down  by  the  Moors, 

for  the  purpofe  of  permitting  their  velfels  to  enter 

the  river.  The  remainder  of  it  is  entire,  and  by  its 

thicknefs  and  folidity  it  evinces  the  excellence  of  the 

ancient  architects,  and  iliews  that  ftrength,  as  well 

as  beauty,  made  a  confiderable  part  of  their  ftudy. 

As  I  propofe  in  a  future  part  of  this  Narrative 

to   defcribe    very    particularly    the   architecture, 

houfes,  furniture,    &c.   in   this   country,    I  mall 

conclude  my  account  of  Tangier  by  obferving, 

that  in  time  of  peace  it  carries  on  a  fmall  trade 

with   Gibraltar    and   the   neighbouring  coaft   of 

Spain,  by  fupplying  thofe  places  with  provifions, 

and  receiving  in  return  European  commodities  of 

almoft  every  kind, 

In  a  fortnight  after  my  arrival  at  Tangier  the 
conful  received  a  letter  from  the  prince,  inform- 
ipg  him  of  his  return  to  Tarudant,  and  of  his 

wife 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  9 

wi(h  that  the  Englifh  furgeon  might  be  difpatched 
to  him  immediately.  Previous  to  my  departure, 
however,  it  became  necefTary  to  confider  what 
was  required  for  the  journey. 

Two  horfemen  of  the  Black  or  Negro  cavalry, 
armed  with  long  mufkets  and  fabres,  were  dif 
patched  by  the  prince  to  efcort  me,  and  had  been 
waiting  for  that  purpofe  for  fome  time.  The  go 
vernor  of  the  town  had  orders  to  fupply  me  with 
a  tent,  mules,  and  an  interpreter.  But  it  was  not 
without  much  difficulty  that  a  perfon  could  be 
found  in  Tangier  v/ho  coald  fpeak  the  Englifh 
and  Arabic  languages  fufficiently  well  to  perform 
that  office-,  and  it  was  owing  to  an  accident  that 
I  at  lenrjJi  was  enabled  to  obtain  one. 

After  fearching  the  whole  town  in  vain,  the  go-, 
vernor  ordered,  during  the  Jewifh.  hour  of  prayer, 
that  enquiries  fhould  be  made  among  all  the  iyna- 
gogues  for  a  perfon  who  underftood  both  lan 
guages.  An  unfortunate  Jew,  whofe  occupation 
was  that  of  felling  fruit  about  the  flreets  at  Gib 
raltar,  and  who  had  come  to  Tangier  merely  to 
fpend  a  few  days  with  his  wife  and  family  during 
a  Jewifh  feftival,  being  unacquainted  with  the  in 
tent  of  the  enquiry,  unguardedly  anfwered  in  the 
affirmative.  'Without  further  ceremony  the  poor- 
man  was  dragged  away  from  his  friends  and  home, 
and  conftrained  by  force  to  accompany  me. 

Of  the  mode  in  this  defpotic  government  of 
feizing  perfcns  at  the  arbitrary  pleafure  of  a  go 
vernor,  an  Englishman  can  fcarcely  form  an  idea. 
Three  or  four  lufty  Moors,  with  large  clubs  in 
their  hands,  grafp  the  wretched  and  defenceless . 
B  5  viftim* 


IO  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

victim  with  as  much  energy  as  if  he  were  an 
Hercules,  from  whom  they  expefted  the  mod  for 
midable  refi dance,  and  half  iliake  him  to  death 
before  they  deliver  him  up  to  the  fuperior  pow 
er. — Such  was  exaftly  the  fituation  of  my  unfor 
tunate  interpreter. 

From  the  fudden  and  abrupt  manner  in  which  he 
"was  hurried  away,  in  the  midft  of  his  devotions, 
the  women  immediately  took  the  alarm,  flew  in 
a  body  to  the  houfe  of  the  conful,  and  with  fhrieks 
and  lamentations  endeavoured  to  prevail  on  him 
to  get  the  man  excufed  from  his  journey.  The 
immenfe  diilance,  and  the  ill  treatment  which  they 
knew  was  offered  to  Jews  by  the  Moors,  when 
not  under  fome  civilized  controul,  were  -certainly 
fufficient  motives  for  this  alarm  on  the  part  of  the 
women.  Upon  the  coniuPs  afluring  them,  how 
ever,  that  the  wife  fhould  be  taken  care  of,  and 
the  hufband  fent  back  without  any  expence  to  him 
on  our  arrival  at  Mogodore,  where  I  was  to  be 
farnifhed  with  another  interpreter,  and  upon  my 
promifing  to  protect  the  Jew  from  infult,  and,  if 
he  behaved  well,  to  reward  him  for  his  trouble, 
the  women  immediately  difperfed,  and  returned 
home  apparently  fatisfied. 

When  this  bufinefs  was  completed,  the  conful 
furnifhed  me  with  a  proper  quantity  of  liquors, 
two  days  provifions,  a  beadftead  formed  by  three 
folding  ftools,  for  the  converiiency  of  packing 
it  on  the  mules,  with  proper  cooking  utenfils,  and 
an  oil-fkin  cafe  to  carry  my  bedding.  The  whole 
of  my  equipage,  therefore,  confided  of  two  Negro 
fpldiers,.  a  Jewiih  interpreter,  one  faddle-mule 

for. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  1 1 

for  myfelf,  and  another  for  him,  two  baggage- 
mules,  and  a  Moorifh  muleteer  on  foot  to  take  care 
of  them. 

On  the  3cth  of  September,  at  three  in  the 
afternoon,  we  let  out  on  our  journey  ;  and  at  fix 
the  fame  evening  arrived  at  a  fmall  village  about 
eight  miles  from  Tangier,  named  Hyn  Dalia, 
where  we  flept  that  night.  The  country  through 
which  we  pafTed,  after  quitting  the  neighbourhood 
of  Tangier,  was  barren  and  mountainous,  with 
fcarcely  any  inhabitants  ,  and  it  countinued  fo  the 
whole  way  to  Larache,  only  a  few  miferable 
hamlets  prefenting  themfelves  occasionally  to  our 
view.  The  villages>  throughout  this  empire  con- 
fifr,  of  huts  rudely  conftrufted  of  {tones,,  earth, 
and  canes,  covered  with  thatch,  and  encloied  with 
thick  and  high  hedges.  This  defcription  exactly 
applies  to  that  which  received  us  on  thefirft  even 
ing  of  our  expedition. 

So  careful  had  the  governor  of  Tangier  been 
in  executing  his  commiilion,  and  fo  attentive  to 
the  accommodation  of  the  perfon  who  was  to, 
reilore  health  ta  his  royal  matter's  favourite  fon, 
that  upon  examining  my  tent,  it  was  found  fo 
full  of  holes,  a-nd  in  every  refpefl  fo  out  of  order,, 
that  I  was  obliged  to  place  my  bed  under-  a  hedge,, 
and  make  ufe  of  my  tattered  tent  as  a  lide  cover 
ing. 

After  fpending  the  night  in  this  fingular  fitua- 
tion,  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  at  half  pa/I 
feven  in  the  morning,  and  in  an  hour  after  crofTed; 
the  river  Marha,  which  was  nearly  dry,  though. 
I  was  informed  that  after  the  heavy  rains  it  is  deep, 
and  dangerous  to  be.  forded..  In  a  wet  feafon, 


12  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

the  rivers  are  fwelled,  travellers  are  frequently 
detained  for  feveral  days  upon  their  banks.  There 
are  in  fact  but  very  few  bridges  in  this  country, 
fo  that,  except  at  the  fea-ports,  where  they  have 
boats,  there  is  no  method  of  pafTmg  fheams  which 
are  too  deep  to  be  forded,  except  by  fwimming,  or 
by  the  ufe  of  rafts. 

At  ten  we  entered  a  thick  and  extenfive  foreft, 
named  Rabe  a  Clow.  From  its  fituation  on  a 
high  mountain,  from  the  rocky  and  difficult  afcent, 
and  from  the  diflant  view  of  the  ocean  through 
the  openings  of  the  trees,  this  forefr,  prelented  to 
us  an  uncommonly  wild,  romantic,  and,  I  may 
with  truth  fay,  a  fublime  appearance.  From  this 
profpeclj  however,  our  attention  was  in  a  great 
meafure  diverted  by  the  miferable  road  over  which 
we  now  found  we  were  to  pafs,  extending  for  the 
jnoft  part  over  fleep  mountains  and  craggy  rocks,.. 
On  this  account  wre  were  obliged  to  ride  very  flow, 
and  with  the  greatefl  caution. 

At  eleven  we  crofTed  another  river,  called  Ma- 
chira  la  chef,  running  at  the  bottom  of  this  ele 
vated  fore.fr,  which,  though  the  feafon  was  dry, 
was  rather  deep.  Here  the  eye  was  agreeably 
refrefhed,  by  a  fine  champaigne  country,  and  a 
good  road  before  us.  On  this  we  continued  until 
we  arrived  at  a  rivulet  with  fome  trees  growing 
at  a  fmall  diftance  from  its  margin.  At  noon  I 
fixed  upon  the  mofl:  ihady  fpot  I  could  find,  and, 
agreeably  to  the  Moorifh  fafuion,  fat  down  crofs- 
legged  on  the  grafs  and  dined. 

As  the  drefling  of  victuals  would  have  retarded 
us  too  much  on  our  journey,  I  always  made  a 
point  of  having  fomething  prepared  the  night  be-. 

fore. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  13 

fore  to  eat  cold  the  following  day.  Such  repafts 
in  frefcowere  agreeable  enough,  when  wholefome 
and  palatable  water  could  be  procured ;  but  very 
frequently  that  was  far  from  being  the  cafe.  In 
many  places  it  was  fo  muddy  and  ofFenfire,  that, 
though  extremely  thirfty,  I  could  not  drink  it  un- 
lefs  corredled  with  wine. 

Except  in  the  large  towns,  no  provifions  could 
be  procured  but  fowls  and  eggs  \  with  thefe, 
which  I  had  been  before  accuftomed  to  efleem  as 
delicacies,  I  now  began  to  be  fatiated  and  di£- 
gutted.  My  ufual  fupper  upon  my  rout  was  a  cup 
of  ftrong  coffee  and  a  toall,  which  I  found  much 
more  refrefhing  than  animal  food.  Every  morn 
ing  I  breakfafted  upon  the  fame,  and  experienced 
the  invigorating  effe<5ts  of  this  beverage,  by  its 
enabling  me  to  fupport  the  fatigues  of  the  day. 
.After  purfuing  our  courfe  for  about  two  hours, 
we  arrived  at  the  river  Lorifa,  where  we  were 
detained  an  hour  by  the  height  of  the  tide.  The 
uncertainty  and  unevennefs  of  the  bottom,  and 
the  number  of  large  flones  which  lie  in  the  channel 
of  this  river,  render  it  at  all  times  unfafe  to  be 
pa/Fed.  This  circumilance  we  very  fen fibly  ex 
perienced  ',  for  when  the  tide  permitted  us  to  make 
the  attempt,  though  we  had  men  on  foot  for  the 
purpofe  of  guiding  our  beafts,  friil  by  their  ftriking 
againfl  the  ftones,  and  by  their  hidden  plunges 
into  deep  holes,  we  were  continually  thrown  for 
ward  upon  their  necks. 

Hardinefs  and  dexterity  are,  perhaps,  the  firft 
among  the  few  advantages  which  uncivilized  na 
tions  enjoy.  It  was  amufing  in  this  place  to  ob- 
fcrve  a  number  of  Moors,  who  were  travelling 

on 


14  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

on  foot,  pull  off  their  cloaths,  place  them  com- 
modiouily  on  their  heads,  and  immediately  fwira 
acrofs  the  ftream. 

In  the  evening  we  reached  Arzilla,  where,  in 
confequence  of  the  fervice  in  which  I  was  engaged, 
application  was  made  by  the  foldiers  to  the  Al 
caide,  or  governor  of  the  town,  to  procure  me 
a  lodging.  Arzilla  is  eleven  hours  journey,  or 
about  thirty  miles  diflant  from  Tangier :  for  the 
Moors  compute  diftances  by  hours  ;  and  as  the 
pace  of  their  mules  is  at  the  rate  of  three  miles  an 
hour,  the  length  of  a  journey  is  generally  calcu 
lated  in  this  way  with  fufficient  accuracy. 

The  apartment  affigned  me  was  a  miferable 
room  in  the  caftle,  without  any  windows,  and  re 
ceiving  light  from  a  door-way  (for  there  was  no 
door)  and  from  three  holes  in  the  wall  about  fix 
inches  fquare.  This  cadle  covers  a  large  fpace  of 
ground-,  and  though  it  is  now  in  a  very  ruinous 
condition,  appears  to  have  been  a  building  erect 
ed  formerly  in  a  fuperior  flile  of  Moorifh  gran 
deur. 

The  town  is  a  fmall  fea-port  upon  the  Atlantic 
ocean.  It  was  once  in  the  pofTeilion  of  the  Por- 
tugueze,  and  was  at  that  time  a  place  of  ftrength  ^ 
but  through  the  indolence  and  caprice  of  the 
Moorifh  princes  its  fortifications  have  been  fmce 
neglected,  and  ks  walls  are  rapidly  decaying  in 
almoft  every  part.  The  houies  have  a  miferable 
appearance,  and  the  inhabitants,  who  confilt  of  a 
few  Moors  and  Jews,  live  in  a  flate  of  the  moil 
perfect  poverty. 

The  reader  may  form  fome  idea  of  the  manners 
of  this  country,  by  imagining  me.  and  my  interpre 
ter 


A  TOtR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  15 

ter  at  one  end  of  the  room,  as  above  defcribed, 
drinking  coffee;  and  at  the  other,  the  muleteer  and 
the  foldiers  enjoying  themfelves  over  a  large  bowl 
of  Cufcafou,  which  they  were  devouring  with  all 
the  fervour  of  an  excellent  appetite,  and  in  the 
primitive  fafhion,  that  is  with  their  fingers.  This 
fpecies  of  food  is  very  common  among  the  Moors, 
who  have  a  tradition  that  it  was  invented  by  their 
prophet  Mahomet,  at  a  time  when  he  could  ob 
tain  neither  deep  nor  fubfiftence.  It  is  their  prin 
cipal  treat  to  all  foreign  minifters,  and  travellers 
of  diftinftion  who  viiit  the  country.  It  confifls 
of  bits  of  pafte  about  the  frze  of  rice,  crumbled  in 
to  an  earthea  colander,  and  cooked  by  the  fleam 
of  boiled  meat  and  vegetables.  The  whole  is  then 
put  into  an  earthen  difh,  and  butter  and  fpices 
added  to  it.  The  difh  is  ferved  up  in  a  wooden 
tray,  with  a  cover  of  palmetto  leaves  plaited  to 
gether. 

About  an  hour  after  my  arrival  the  governor, 
and  feveral  of  the  principal  Moors,  paid  me  a  vifit, 
and  brought  me,  in  compliment  to  my  royal  patient,, 
a  prefent  of  fruit,  eggs,  and  fowls.  After  a  con- 
verfation  of  about  half  an  hour,  during  which 
many  compliments  pafTed  on  both  fides,  my 
vifitors  took  their  leave,  and  we  all  retired  to 
reft. 

As  the  report  was  rapidly  and  extenfively  cir 
culated  that  a  Chriftian  furgeon  was  arrived  in  the 
town,  I  found  myfelf  vifited  very  early  in  the 
morning  by  a  number  of  patients,  whofe  cafes 
were  in  general  truly  deplorable.  Many  of  thefe 
objects  were  afflicted  with  total  bl'mdnefs,  white 
fwellings,  inveterate  chronical  rheumatifms,  and 

dropfies. 


1 6  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

dropfies.  It  \vas  in  vain  to  allure  thefc  unfortu 
nate  and  ignorant  people  that  their  complaints 
were  beyond  the  reach  of  medicine.  All  I  could 
allege  gained  not  the  fmalleft  credit  5  a  Chriftian 
doctor,  they  afTerted,  could  cure  every  malady, 
and  repeatedly  offered  me  their  hands  to  feel  their 
pulfej  for  difeafes  of  every  kind  in  this  country, 
it  leems,  are  to  be  dlfcovered  merely  by  an  applica 
tion  to  the  pulfe. 

From  the  urgent  importunities  of  my  patients, 
who  all  \vi(hed  to  be  attended  to  at  the  fame  time, 
I  was  at  firft  at  a  lofs  how  to  proceed;  however, 
I  found  myfelf  under  the  neceility  of  ordering  my 
guards  to  keep  off  the  crowd,  and  permit  one  only 
to  confult  me  at  a  time.  It  was  truly  diftrefling 
to  obferve  fo  many  objecls  of  real  mifery  before  me, 
without  having  it  in  my  power  to  adminifler  that 
relief  for  which  they  appeared  fo  anxious,  and 
which  they  werefo  confident  of  obtaining.  Though 
moft  of  their  complaints  appeared  to  be  incurable, 
yet  had  my  time  permitted  I  fhould  have  expe 
rienced  the  moft  heart-felt  pleafure  in  exerting 
every  means  in  my  power  to  alleviate  their  filter 
ings.  Circumftanced  as  I  was,  I  could  only  re 
commend  them  medicines  which  could  have  but  a 
temporary  efTecl,  and  which  ferved  rather  to 
fend  them  away  fatisfied  than  to  afford  a  perma 
nent  relief. 

In  the  mean  time  the  governor  had  been  paying 
attention  to  the  bad  condition  of  my  tent,  and  by 
ordering  the  worft  parts  to  be  cut  out,  and  the 
reft  to  be  patched,  had  reduced  it  fo  much  in 
fize  that  he  had  fcarcely  left  room  for  myfelf  and 
interpreter  with  difficulty  to  creep  into  it. 

At 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  17 

At  eight  o'clock  the  fame  morning,  Oftober 
2d,  \ve  began  our  route  for  the  city  of  Larache, 
about  twenty-two  miles  from  Arzilla,  and  ar- 
lived  there  ihe  fame  day  about  four  in  the  after 
noon.  Our  journey  thither  was  principally  on  the 
beach,  fo  that  but  little  occurred  which  was  worthy 
of  obfervation.  Before  we  could  enter  the  town, 
we  were  ferried  over  the  river  Luccos,  which  in 
this  part,  is  about  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  and  after 
many  beautiful  meanders  falls  into  the  ocean  at 
Lcirache* 


CHAP. 


A  TOtJR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


CHAP.    H. 

Defer  iptlon  of  LARA  CHE.  —  Application  from  a  Number 
of  Patients.—  Difeafes  of  the  Country.  —  State  of  Medi 
cal  Science  In  MOROCCO.  —  Curious  Ruin.  —  Beautiful 
Country.  -"-Encampments  of  the  Arabs.—  Manners  an£ 
Ciijfams  of  this  Jingular  People.  +-~  Oppreffion  of  the  Peo- 

in  the  Lakes.'  —  Sanc- 


Saints.****  Anecdotes  illnjlrati<ve  of  this 
MAM  Oft  A  id 


IMMEDIATELY  on  my  arrival  at  Larache  I 
•*•  was  introduced  to  the  Alcaide  or  governor, 
•whom  I  found  to  be  a  very  handfome  black,  He 
fhewed  me  great  attention,  and  placed  me  in  a  very 
decent  apartment  in  the  caftle,  which  is  in  a  ftatc 
totally  different  from  that  of  Arzilla. 

Larache  formerly  belonged  to  the  Spaniards; 
it  has  tolerably  neat  buildings,  and  is  of  a  mode 
rate  extent.  This  city  is  fituated  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  Luccos,  upon  an  eafy  defcent  to  the  fea. 
The  agreeable  windings  of  the  river,  the  clufters 
of  date  and  various  other  trees  irregularly  difpofed, 
and  the  gentle  rifmgs  of  the  ground,  have  a  moft 
pifturefque  effect;  which,  aided  by  the  reflection 
that  your  are  contemplating  the  pure  works  of 
nature,  unaflifted  or  undeformed  by  art,  cannot 
fail  to  infpire  the  moft  pleafing  fenfations. 

The  town,  though  not  regularly  fortified,  pof- 
fefTes  one  fort  and  two  batteries  in  good  repair. 
The  ftreets  are  paved,  and  there  is  a  decent  market 
place  with  ftone  piazzas.  This  city  indeed  on  the 
whole  exhibits  a  much  cleaner  and  neater  appear 

ance 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  1$ 

ance  than  any  town  which  I  vifited  in  Barbary, 
Mogodore  excepted. 

At  the  port  veffels  are  refitted  and  fupplied 
with  {tores,  though  there  are  no  docks  nor  con- 
veniencies  for  building  large  fhips.  From  the 
depth  and  fecurity  of  the  river  the  emperor  is  in 
duced  to  lay  up  his  large  velfels  at  Larache  during 
the  winter  feafon.  It  indeed  is  the  only  port  which 
he  pofTefles  that  can  anfwer  that  purpofe*  It  is 
however  probable,  that  this  river  in  procefs  of 
time  will  be  fubjedt  to  the  fame  Inconvenience  as 
that  of  Tangier,  owing  to  the  accumulation  of 
fand,  which  already  has  produced  a  bar  at  its  en 
trance,  of  which  the  annual  increafe  is  very  per 
ceptible. 

As  one  of  my  mules  had  fallen  lame,  I  con- 
tinued  the  whole  of  the  following  day  at  LARACHE, 
with  a  view  of  exchanging  him  ^  but  to  my  great 
mortification  was  not  able  to  fucceed  in  the  at 
tempt.  During  a  great  part  of  the  day  my  room 
was  fo  filled  with  patients  that  it  might  with  great 
propriety  be  compared  to  an  infirmary,  and  that 
not  one  of  the  leaft  confiderable. 

The  difeafes  that  I  obferved  to  be  moft  prevalent, 
were  the  hydrocele;  violent  infiammmations  in 
the  eyes,  very  frequently  terminating  in  blind- 
nefs ;  the  itch,  combined  with  inveterate  leprous 
affections  *,  dropfies,  and  white  fwellings.  I  alfo 
obferved  a  few  intermittent  and  billions  fevers, 
and  frequently  complaints  of  the  ftomach,  arifmg 
from  indigeflion.  Though  this  country  has  in  a 
few  inftances  been  vifited  by  the  plague,  yet  that 
difeafe  by  no  means  is  Ib  prevalent  here  as  in  the 
Eaftern  parts  of  Barbary,  which  are  more  con 
tiguous 


flO  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

tiguous  to  Turkey,  whence  it  is  fuppofed  ufually 
to  proceed. 

The  caufe  of  the  hydrocele  fo  frequently  occur 
ring  in  this  country  feems  to  be  in  a  great  meafnre 
the  loofe  drefs  of  the  Moors,  and  the  great  relaxa 
tion  which  is  induced  by  the  warmth  of  the  cli 
mate*.  The  ophthalmy,  01  inflammation  of  the 
eyes,  is  evidently  occafioned  by  their  being  expofed 
to  the  refle6tion  of  the  fun  from  the  houfes,  which 
are  univerfally  whitened  over.  To  this  inconveni 
ence  the  Moors  are  more  particularly  fubjeft,  from 
their  drefs  not  being  calculated  to  keep  off  the  rays 
of  the  fun,  and  from  no  perfon  being  allowed  the 
life  of  an  umbrella  except  the  emperor. 

The  leprous  affeftion  appears  to  be  hereditary, 
for  I  was  informed  that  it  has  been  frequently 
traced  back  from  one  family  to  another  for  fever al 
generations,  and  it  has  all  the  appearance  of  being 
the  true  leprofy  of  the  antients.  It  breaks  out  in 
great  blotches  over  the  whole  body,  in  fome  few 
forming  one  continual  fore,  which  frequently  heah 
up,  and  at  ftated  times  breaks  out  afrefh,  but  is 
never  thoroughly  cured.  During  my  refidence  at 
Morocco,  I  had  frequent  opportunities  of  trying 
a  variety  of  remedies  for  this  complaint,  but  I 
never  fucceeded  further  than  a  temporary  cure, 
for  upon  difcontinuing  the  medicines  the  difeafe 
was  certain  to  return.  The  white  fwellings  and 
dropfies  probably  arife  from  poor  living ;  three 

*  The  medical  reader  will  probably  fee  a  further  caufe 
for  the  frequency  of  this  complaint,  in  the  great  indulgence 
which  the  Moors  allow  themfelves  in  certain  pleafures,  and 
the  application  of  the  warm  bath  immediately  after. 

parts 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  2t 

parts  of  the  people  feldom  having  any  other  kind 
of  provifion  than  coarfe  bread,  fruit,  and  vegeta 
bles. 

With  refpect  to  the  ftate  of  medical  and  chirur- 
gical  knowledge  in  this  country,  it  is  very  limited 
indeed.  They  have,  however,  their  practitioners 
in  phyfic,  both  Moors  and  Jews,  who  have  gone 
through  the  form  of  fitting  themfelves  for  the  pro- 
feflion,  which  chieily  confifts  in  felefting  from  the 
antient  Arabic  manufcripts  that  remain  in  the  coun 
try  fome  fimple  remedies,  which  they  afterwards 
apply,  as  well  as  they  are  able,  to  various  diftem- 
pers. 

Their  methods  of  treating  diforders  are,  bleed 
ing,  cupping,  fcarifying,  fomentations,  and  giving 
internally  deco6lions  of  herbs.  Some  are  bold 
enough  in  the  hydrocele  to  let  out  the  water  with 
a  lancet ;  and  there  are  thofe  who  even  couch  for 
the  cataraft.  I  never  had  an  opportunity  of  feeing 
the  operation  of  couching  performed  in  Barbary, 
but  I  was  introduced  to  a  Moor  at  the  city  of  Mo 
rocco,  who  told  rne  that  he  had  performed  it, 
and  (hewed  me  the  inflrument  which  he  tifed  for 
the  purpofe.  This  was  a  piece  of  thick  brafs  wire, 
terminating  gradually  at  one  end  in  a  point  not 
very  {harp. 

The  Moors  chiefly  depend  upon  topical  reme 
dies,  and  feldom  make  life  of  internal  medicines. 
Being  itrangers  to  the  manner  in  which  they  arc 
to  operate,  they  feem  to  entertain  no  favourable 
opinion  of  their  efficacy.  It  is  indeed  alm.ofl  im- 
poffible  to  perfuade  them  that  a  medicine  received 
into  the  flomach  can  relieve  complaints  in  the  head 
or  extremities.  It  is  but  juftice,  however,  to  add,- 

that 


72  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C, 

that  I  never  knew  them  objeft  to  any  thing  that  I 
adminiftered,  provided  I  clearly  explained  to  them 
the  manner  in  which  they  were  to  be  benefited 
by  it.  From  thefe  obfervations,  and  from  the 
frequent  recourfe  which  the  Mahometans  have  to 
charms  and  amulets,  it  appears  that,  notwith- 
ftanding  their  belief  in  predestination,  they  are 
not  averfe  to  the  ufe  of  means  for  the  removal  of 
diforders. 

Of  the  number  who  applied  to  me  for  relief  at 
Larache,  none  appeared  to  exhibit  the  leaft  fenie 
of  gratitude  except  one;  the  reft  behaved  as  if  they 
thought  they  did  me  a  greater  favour  by  afking  my 
advice,  than  I  conferred  on  them  by  giving  it. 
The  perfon  to  whom  I  allude,  as  being  fo  different 
in  his  conduft  from  the  reft,  was  an  old  Moor  of 
fome  dift'mdtion  in  the  place,  who  defired  me  to 
come  to  his  houfe  and  vifit  a  ilck  friend,  with 
•which  requeft  I  immediately  complied.  The  man 
for  this  trifling  attention  was  fo  uncommonly  grate 
ful,  that  reflecting  on  the  place  where  I  was,  and 
on  the  treatment  I  had  already  experienced,  I  was 
aftonifhed  and  gratified  beyound  expreffion.  After 
fending  to  my  apartment  a  large  fupply  of  poultry 
and  fruit,  the  ufual  preient  of  the  country,  he 
waited  on  me  himfelf,  and  affured  me,  that  while 
he  lived  he  fhould  never  forget  the  favour  which  I 
had  done  him;  at  the  fame  time  infifting  upon  my 
making  ufe  of  his  houfe  as  my  own  upon  my  return. 
As  this  was  the  principal  inftance  of  this  very 
fingular  virtue  among  the  Moors,  which  I  expe 
rienced  during  my  whole  tour  in  Barbary,  I  have 
thought  it  my  duty  to  be  particular  in  mentioning 
the  circumfiance. 

On 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  23 

On  the  4th  of  Oftober,  at  fix  in  the  morning, 
\ve  left  Larache,  and  at  ten  parted  the  river  Clough, 
a  fmall  ftream.  At  four  in  the  afternoon  we  came 
to  the  ruins  of  a  large  caftle,  faid  to  have  been  built 
fome  hundred  years  ago,  by  a  Moor  of  diftinftion, 
named  Dar  Corefy,  who  was  put  to  death  by  the 
then  reigning  emperor,  and  his  caflle  deftroyed. 
Moft  of  the  caftles  and  other  public  buildings  in 
deed,  which  I  faw  in  this  empire,  afforded  ftrong 
marks  of  having  fuffered  more  from  the  hands  of 
the  tyrant,  than  from  the  injuries  of  time, 

I  have  already  mentioned  the  beautiful  profpefts 
in  the  country  adjacent  to  Larache:  thofe  in  the 
road  from  that  city  to  Mamora  were  not  lefs  de 
lightful.  We  travelled  among  trees  of  various 
kinds,  fo  agreeably  arranged  that  the  place  had 
more  the  appearance  of  a  park  than  of  an  unculti 
vated  country.  We  croffed  over  plains  which, 
without  the  aid  of  the  hnfbandman,  were  rich  in 
verdure;  and  we  had  a  view  of  lakes  which  ex 
tended  many  miles  in  length,  the  fides  of  which 
were  lined  with  Arab  encampments,  and  their  fur- 
faces  covered  with  innumerable  water-fowl.  The 
finenefs  of  the  day  greatly  added  to  the  pleafure  I 
received  from  thefe  variegated  fcenes,  which  are 
not  unworthy  the  pencil  of  the  ableft  artiit. 

At  half  part  four  in  the  aftenoon  we  arrived  at 
the  firft  of  thefe  lakes,  and  pitched  our  tent  in  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  encampments. 

Thefe  encampments  are  generally  at  a  very  con- 
fiderable  diftance  from  the  cities  and  towns ;  the 
villages,  on  the  other  hand,  are  commonly  quite 
in  the  vicinity  of  fome  town.  The  encampment 
confifts  of  broad  tents,  conftrufted  either  of  the 

leaves 


ST4  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO)  &C. 

leaves  of  the  palmetto,  or  of  camels  hair.  Some 
of  them  are  fupported  by  canes,  and  others  are 
fixed  by  pegs.  The  form  of  an  Arab  tent  is  in 
ibme  degree  fimilar  to  a  tomb,  or  the  keel  of  a 
{hip  reverfed.  They  are  dyed  black,  are  broad, 
and  very  low.  The  tent  of  the  Shaik  or  governor 
is  confiderably  larger  than  any  of  the  others,  and 
is  placed  in  a  confpicuous  part  of  the  camp.  Thefe 
camps  are  named  by  the  Arabs  Douhars,  and  the 
number  of  tents  in  them  vary  according  to  the  pro* 
portion  of  people  in  the  tribe  or  family.  Some  of 
the  Douhars  contain  only  four  or  five,  while 
others  confift  of  near  a  hundred.  The  camp  forms 
either  a  complete  circle  or  an  oblong  fquare,  but 
the  firft  is  more  common.  The  cattle,  which  are 
left  to  graze  at  large  in  the  day,  are  carefully 
fecured  within  the  boundaries  at  night. 

In  all  the  camps  the  tents  are  clofed  on  the 
North  fide,  and  are  quite  open  on  the  South,  by 
which  means  they  efcape  the  cold  Northerly 
winds,  fo  prevalent  in  this  country  during  the 
winter  feafon. 

The  Arabs  who  inhabit  thefe  encampments  are 
in  many  refpefts  a  very  different  race  of  people 
from  the  Moors  who  inhabit  the  towns.  The 
latter,  from  being  in  general  more  affluent,  from 
their  intercourfe  with  Europeans,  and  from  their 
different  education,  have  introduced  luxuries,  and 
imbibed  ideas,  of  which  the  others  are  entirely 
ignorant.  From  their  ftrong  family  attachments 
indeed,  as  well  as  from  their  inveterate  prejudices 
in  favour  of  antient  cuftoms,  thefe  tribes  of  Arabs 
appear  to  be  at  a  vaft  diftance  from  a  Hate  of  civi 
lization.  As  this  fingular  people  affociate  con- 
4  tinuallj 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  2£ 

.tinually  in.  tribes,  their  marriages  are  confined  to 
their  own  family,  and  fo  ftrift  are  they  in  the  ob- 
fervance  of  this  attachment,  that  they  will  not  per 
mit  a  perfon  who  is  not  in  fome  degree  related  to 
them  to  inhabit  the  fame  camp  with  themfelves. 

The  hufband,  wife,  and  children  all  fleep  in  the 
fame  tent,  commonly  on  a  pallet  of  •fheep-Jkins, 
butfometimes  on  the  bare  ground.  The  children 
remain  with  their  parents  till  they  marry,  when 
the  friends  of  each  party  are  obliged  to  provide 
them  with  a  tent,  a  Itone  hand-mill  to  grind  their 
corn,  a  bafket,  a  wooden  bowl,  and  two  earthen 
didies,  which  confritute  the  whole  of  their  furni 
ture.  Be  fides  thefe  they  have,  however,  a  mar 
riage  portion,  which  confifts  of  a  certain  number 
of  camels,  horfes,  cows,  fheep,  and  goats,  with 
a  proportionable  quantity  of  wheat  and  barley : 
and  by  grazing  and  cultivating  the  neighbouring 
ground  they  gradually  increafe  their  Hock,  The 
Arabs  -have  feldom  more  than  one  wife.  Their 
women,  who  are  in  general  the  very  oppoflte  to 
every  idea  of  beauty,  do  not,  like  thofe  who  in 
habit  the  towns,  conceal  their  faces  in  the  pre- 
fenre  of  Grangers, 

Each  camp  is  under  the  direftion  of  a  SHAIK, 
to  whom  the  reft  apply  for  redrefs  whenever  they 
feel  themfelves  aggrieved.  This  governor  is  in- 
veilecl  with  the  power  of  mfliftmg  any  punifh- 
ment  which  he  may  think  proper,  fhort  of  death. 
He  is  appointed  by  the  emperor,  2nd  is  in  general 
the  Arab  who  poffefTes  the  greateft  property. 

As  they  are  generally  at  a  diftance  from  any 

mofque  where  they  can  exercife  their  religion,  an 

empty  tent  is  allotted  for  the  purpofes  of  worihip, 

C  which 


26  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


is  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  camp,  and 
v/hich  at  the  fame  time  ferves  for  the  nightly  a- 
bode  of  any  traveller  who  may  pafs  that  way;  and 

^hofe  who  take  ihelter  in  it  are  provided  with  a 
good  flipper,  at  the  expence  of  the  whole  alTocia- 

.tion.  Within  this  tent  all  the  children  afTemble 
every  morning  an  hour  before  day-break,  before 
a  large  wood  fire,  which  is  made  on  the  outfide, 
and  learn  their  prayers,  which  are  written  in  Ara 
bic  characters  on  boards,  and  are  always  hanging 
up  iu  the  tent.  The  learning  to  read  the  few  pray 
ers  which  are  en  thefe  boards,  and  to  commit 
them  to  memory,  is  the  only  education  to  which 
the  Arabs  in  general  ever  attain. 

The  unfettled  turn  of  thefe  people  has  con 
ferred  upon  them  the  appellation  of  wandering 
Arabs.  As  foon  as  the  land  which  furrounds  them 
becomes  lefs  productive,  and  their  cattle  have  de 
voured  all  the  pasture,  they  flrike  their  tents,  and 

.move  on  to  feme  more  fertile  fpot,  till  necefnty 
again  compels  them  to  retire.  I  met  one  of  thefe 
tribes  upon  their  march,  and  obferved  that  not 
only  their  camels,  horfes,  and  mules,  but  alib  their 
bulls  and  cows,  were  laden  with  their  tents,  im 
plements  of  agriculture,  wives  and  children,  &c. 
In  the  empire  of  Morocco  all  landed  property, 
except  what  is  immediately  connected  with  towns, 
belongs  to  the  emperor.  The  Arabs,  therefore, 
when  they  wifh  to  change  their  fituation,  are  obli 
ged  to  procure  a  licence  from  him,  or  at  lead 
from  the  bafnaw  of  the  province,  allowing  them 

.  to  take  pofTefTion  of  any  particular  (pot  of  ground  ; 
and  in  consideration  of  this  indulgence  they  pay 
the  emperor  a  proportion  of  its  produce.  « 

The 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  27 

The  treatment  which  I  experienced  from  thefe 
people  was  kind  and  hofpitable,  betraying  no  figns 
of  that  inclination  to  impofe  upon  flranpers,  which 
fo  flrongly  mark  the  character  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  towns.  As  foon  as  my  tent  was  pitched, 
numbers  flocked  round  it,  but  apparently  more 
from  curlofity  than  from  any  intention  of  offend 
ing.  On  the  contrary,  they  appeared  exgeedingly 
delirous  to  do  every  thing  in  their  power  for  my 
accommodation. 

The  drefs  of  the  men  con  fills  of  a  long  coarfe 
frock,  made  of  undyed  wool,  which  is  girt  about 
the  waifl,  and  is  called  a  Cafhove.  In  addition 
to  this  they  wear  the  Haick,  which  is  a  piece  of 
fluff  feveral  yards  in  length,  made  either  of  wool, 
or  wool  and  cotton.  This,  when  they  go  abroad, 
they  ufe  as  a  cloak,  throwing  it  over  the  whole 
of  the  under-drefs  in  a  carelefs  manner,  the  up 
per  part  ferving  to  cover  their  head.  They  wear 
their  hair  cut  quite  dole,  ufe  no  turban,  cap,  nor 
fiockings,  and  feldom  even  wear  flippers. 

The  drefs  of  the  women  is  nearly  the  fame,  dif 
fering  only  in  the  mode  of  putting  on  the  Caf- 
liove,  which  is  fo  contrived  as  to  fornva  bag  on 
their  backs,  for  the  purpofe  of  carrying  their  chil 
dren  •,  and  this  they  are  able  to  do,  and  perform 
-all  the  drudgery  of  the  family  at  the  fame  time. 
Their  hair,  which  is  black,  is  worn  in  different 
plaits,  and  is  covered  with  a  handkerchief  tied 
dole  to  their  head.  They  are  very  fond  of  gold 
and  filver  trinkets  when  they  can  obtain  them, 
and  none  of  them  are  without  a  number  of  bead 
i^cklaces.  Their  children  go  quite  naked  till  the 

»  C  2  ilgt 


28  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

age  of  nine  or  ten,  \vhen  they  are  initiated  in  the 
drudgery  of  their  parents. 

The  mode  of  living  amongft  thefe  people  is 
much  the  fame  as  that  of  the  Moors  in  towns, 
cufcofou  being  their  principal  diet.  Befides  this, 
however,  they  eat  camels  and  foxes  flefh,  aod 
ibmetimes  even  cats  have  fallen  viftims  to  their 
voracity.  They  nfe  barley  bread,  which  is  pre 
pared  without  yea  ft  or  leaven,  and  baken  in  an 
earthen  difli  in  the  (hape  of  a  cake. 

The  complexion  of  the  Arabs  is  a  dark  brown, 
or  rather  olive-colour.  Their  features,  from  their 
more  active  life,  have  ftrongcrexpreffion  and  few 
er  marks  of  effeminacy  than  thofe  of  the  Moors  in 
towns.  Their  eyes  are  black,  and  their  teeth  in 
general  white  and  regular. 

The  ill  effects  of  ftrong  family  prejudices,  and 
of  that  narrow  and  excluiive  difpofition  which  ac 
companies  them,  is  ftrongly  marked  in  ihefe  little 
focieties.  Every  camp  beholds  its  neighbour  with 
cleteftation  or  contempt.  Perpetual  feuds  a  rife  be 
tween  the  inhabitants  of  each,  and  too  commonly 
are  productive  of  bloodihed,  and  the  moil  extra 
vagant  outrages.  When  one  of  thefe  unfortunate 
contefts  proceeds  to  open  a£ts  of  violence,  it  fel- 
dom  terminates  till  the  emperor  has  taken  a  (hare 
in  the  difpute.  Whoever  is-  the  author,  he  at 
kail:  generally  derives  advantage  from  thefe  dif- 
fcnfions  ;  for,  independent  of  the  corporal  punifh- 
ment  which  heinflifts,  he  alfo  impoies  heavy  finer, 
upon  the  contending  tribes,  which  proves  the  moil 
-eJfe6hi.il  mode  of  pacifying  the  combatants. 

Befides  what  the  emperor  gains  in  this  way, 
which  is  frequently  con'iderable,  he  likewiie  re 
ceives 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  2£ 

oeives  annually  the  tenth  of  every  article  of  con- 
iumption  which  is  the  produce  of  the  country  ;  he 
alfo  fometimes  exacts  an  extraordinary  import,  an- 
Twering  in  value  to  about  the  fortieth  part  of  eve 
ry  article  they  poflefs,  which  is  levied  for  the  pur- 
pofe  of  fupportlng  his  troops.  Befides  thcfe  levies, 
thefe  unfortunate  people  are  liable  to  any  other  ex- 
aftiori  which  his  caprice  may  direft  him  to  impofe 
upon  them,  from  a  plea  of  pretended  or  real  ne~ 
ccflity.  The  firft  tax  (the  tenth)  is  paid  either  m 
corn  and  cattle,  or  in  money.  The  other  is  al- 
v/ays  paid  in  corn  and  cattle. 

The  mode  pra£tifed  by  the  emperor  for  extort 
ing  money  from  his  fubjefts-  is  very  firriple  and  ex 
peditious.  He  fends  orders  to  the  bafhaw  or  go 
vernor  of  the  province  to  pay  him  the  fum  he  wants 
within-  a  limited  time.  The  bafhaw  immediately 
colleges  it,  and  fometimes  double  the  fum,  as  a  re 
ward  to  his  own  indufiry,  from  the  Alcai.les  of 
the  towns  and  Shaiks-  of  the  encampments-  in  the 
province  which  he  commands.  The  example  of 
the  ba-thaw  is  not  loft  upon  thefe  officers,  who 
take  care  to  compenfate  their  own  trouble  with 
equal  liberality  from  the  pockets  of  the  fubjeels  5 
lo  that"  by  means  of  this  chain  of  defpotifm,  which 
deicends  from  the  emperor  to  the  ineaneft  officer, 
the  wretched  pec  pie  generally  pay  about  four 
times  the  taxes  which  the  emperor  receives — fo 
little  gainers  are  arbitrary  monarch s  by  theoppref- 
fion  of  the  public  !  The  exactions  indeed  have  been 
ibmetimes  fo  fevere,  that  the  Arabs  have  pofitively 
refufed  to  fatisfy  the  emperor's  demands,  and  have 
obliged  him  to  fend  a  party  of  foldlers  to  enforce 
them.  Whenever  he  is  forced  to  this  extremity, 
C  3  the 


30  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

the  foldiers  never  fail  to  give  full  fcope  to  their 
love  of  plunder. 

When  a  ilranger  deeps  in  one  of  thefe  camps, 
he  refts  in  the  moA  perfect  fafety  ;  for  if  he  lofes 
the  lead  article,  or  is  in  any  refpecl  injured,  all  the 
Arabs  of  the  camp  become  anfwerable  for  i^.  So 
that  a  foreigner  travels  with  much  greater  fecuri- 
ty  under  the  protection  of  government  in  this  em 
pire,  than  among  the  nations  of  Europe  which 
are  more  civilized. 

The  lake's  in  this  part  of  the  world  farniili  great 
plenty  of  water-fowl  and  eels.  The  manner  of 
catching  the  latter  being  in  fome  degree  curi 
ous,  I  (hall  trefpafs  upon  the  reader's  patience 
while  I  endeavour  to  give  fome  account  of  it. 

A  fort  of  fkiff,  about  fix  feet  long  and  two 
broad,  is  formed  of  bundles  of  reeds  and  rufhes, 
rudely  joined  together,  leaving  only  fufficient  room 
to  contain  one  man.  The  ikiff  gradually  narrows 
off  towards  the  head,  where  it  terminates  in  a 
point,  which  is  bent  upwards  in  a  manner  fimilar 
to  the  turn  of  a  fcate.  It  is  guided  and  managed 
entirely  by  one  long  pole,  and  from  its  iightneis 
is  capable  of  very  quick  motion.  For  the  imme 
diate  purpofe  of  taking  the  eels,  a  number  of 
ilrong  canes  are  fixed  together,  with  a  barbed 
iron  in  each,  and  with  this  inftrument,  as  fooa 
as  the  eels  are  obferved  in  the  water,  the  man  im 
mediately  (Irikes  at  them  with  great  dexterity,  and 
generally  with  fuccefs. 

Almoft  the  whole  employment  of  the  Arabs  con- 
fids  in  the  tillage  of  the  ground  adjacent  to  their 
camps,  and  in  the  grazing  of  their  cattle.  The 
grounds  at  a  diftance  from  the  lakess  by  the  burn 
ing 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  31 


ing  of  the  ftubble  in  the  autumn,  and  a  flight  turn 
ing  up  of  the  earth  with  a  v/ooden  plough-iliare, 
produce  good  crops  of  barley  and  wheat  ;  and  by 
thefe  means  the  Arabs  procure  not  only  lufricient 
for  their  confumption,  but  are  even  enabled  ta 
bring  a  part  for  iale  to  the  neighbouring  markets* 
Near  the  mar  flies  and  lakes  their  flocks  and  herds 
find  a  very  rich  pf.fture,  which  from  the  number 
of  every  ipecies  which  I  oblerved,  added  in  no 
fmall  degree  to  the  beauty  of  the  romantic  fcene. 

With  refpect  to  their  markets,  they  have  fpots 
of  ground  fixed  upon  for  that  purpofe  within  a 
few  hours  ride  of  their  habitations,  where  once 
a  week  all  the  neighbouring  Arabs  tranfport  their 
cattle,  poultry,  fruit,  and  corn,  to  be  diipofed  of, 
and  fometimes  meet  with  a  good  fale  from  the 
Moorifn  merchants,  who  come  from  the  town  to 
pur  chafe  cattle  and  grain. 

Were  the  emperor  to  allow  a  free  exportation 
of  corn,  with  moderate  duties,  and  to  permit  the 
people  to  enjoy  what  they  earn,  exac"Hng  only  the 
tax  allowed  him  by  the  Koran,  of  a  tenth  on  each 
article,  his  fubjects  would  foon  become  very  rich,.' 
and  his  own  revenue  would  be  trebly  increaied. 
The  foil  is  fo  fertile,  that  every  grain  is  computed 
to  produce  an  hundred  fold ;  but,  owing  to  the' 
want  of  a  greater  demand  for  this  article,  the 
Arabs  fow  little  more  than  is  necefTary  for  their 
own  nfe. 

The  only  guards  of  thefe  rude  habitations,  both 
agninft  thieves  and  wild  beads,  are  dogs  of  a  very 
large  and  fierce  fpecies.  If  thefe  animals  perceive  a 
Granger  approach  the  camp,  they  furioufly  iiTue  in  a 
body  againit  him,  and  probablywould  tear  him  to 
C  4  pieces, 


32  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

pieces,  were  they  not  reftrained,  and  called  off  by 
their  owners.  Through  the  whole  of  the  night 
they  keep  up  an  incefTant  and  melancholy  barking 
and  howling,  which,  though  doubtlefs  very  ufe- 
ful,  in  keeping  their  mailers  upon  the  v/atch,  and 
frightening  away  wild  beads,  yet,  when  united  to 
I  he  lowing  of  the  herds  and  neighing  of  the  horfes 
•which  occupy  the  vacant  fpaces  of  the  camp,  cer 
tainly  tends  to  deprefs  the  fpirits,  and  impede  that 
reft  which  the  fatigue  attending  thofe  journeys 
naturally  requires. 

On  the  5th  of  Oftober,  between  five  and  fix  in 
the  morning,  we  quitted  the  habitations  of  thde 
hospitable  Arabs,  and  travelled  on  to  Marnora, 
where  v/e  arrived  about  fix  the  fame  evening.,  The 
greater  part  of  this  day's  journey  afforded  us  a 
continuation  of  nearly  the  fame  appearances  with 
that  of  the  preceding  day. 

As  v/e  approached  the  town,  we  obferved  on 
each  fide  of  the  lakes  feveral  fanftuaries  of  Moor- 
ifh  faints.  Thefe  fanftuaries  are  ftone  buildings 
of  about  ten  yards  fquare,  whitened  over,  with  a, 
cupola  at  the  top,  containing  in  them  the  body  of 
the  faint. 

A  veneration  for  pcrfons  of  eminent  fanftity  has 
pervaded  all  nations  and  all  religions  of  the  world. 
The  Mahometan  religion  appears  as  little  favour 
able  to  this  fpecies  of  fuperftition  as  moft  with 
which  we  are  acquainted,  as  it  fo  tenacioully  in 
fills  on  the  unity  of  God,  and  fo  ftridlly  inhibits 
all  creatures  whatever  from  participating  in  the 
honours  which  are  due  only  to  the  Deity.  Some 
degree  of  idolatry,  however,  will  prevail  in  every 
rude  nation.  When,  therefore,  a  Mahometan 

faint 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  33 

faint  dies,  he  is  bferied  with  the  utmoft  folemnity, 
and  a  chapel  is  erected  over  his  grave,  which 
place  afterwards  becomes  more  facred  than  even 
the  mofques  themfelves. 

If  the  moft  atrocious  criminal  takes  refuge  in 
one  of  thefe  chapels,  or  fandtuaries,  his  periba  is 
fecure.  The  emperor  himielf,  who  rarely  icruples 
to  employ  any  means  whatever  that  may  ferve  to 
accomplish  his  purpofe,  feldom  violates  the  privi 
lege  of  thefe  places.  When  a  Moor  is  opprefTed 
by  any  mental  or  bodily  affliction,  he  applies  to 
the  neareft  fandtuary,  and  afterwards  returns  home 
with  his  mind  calm  and  comforted,  expecting  to 
derive  fome  confiderable  benefit  from  the  prayers 
which  he  has  offered  there:  and  in  all  defperate 
cafes  the  fandtuary  is  the  laft  refort. 

Saints  in  Barbary  are  of  two  kinds.  The  firft 
are  thofe  who  by  frequent  ablutions,  prayers,  and 
other  adts  of  devotion,  have  acquired  an  extraor 
dinary  reputation  for  piety.  Too  many  of  thefe 
are  artful  hypocrites,  who  under  the  mafk  of 
religion  pradtife  the  moft  flagrant  immoralities. 
There  are,  however,  infhnces  of  fome  among 
them,  whofe  pradtices  accord  in  general  with  their 
profeffion,  and  \vho  make  it  their  bufincfs  to  attend 
upon  the  fick,  and  affift  the  neccffitous  and  un 
happy.  From  fuch  as  thefe  the  fevere  fpirit  of 
philofophy  itfelf  will  Scarcely  withhold  refpeft  and 
veneration. 

Idiots  and  madmen  form  the  fecond  clafs  of 
faints.  In  every  State  of  fociety,  indeed,  an  opi 
nion  has  been  prevalent,  that  perfons  afflidled 
with  thefe  mental  complaints  were  under  the  in 
fluence  of  fuperior  powers.  The  oracles  and  pro- 
C  5  pheta 


34  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

phets  of  the  heathen  world  derived  their  celebrity 
from  this  circumftance;  and  even  among  the  lower- 
claffes  in  our  own  country  we  frequently  have  to 
encounter  a  fimilar  prejudice.  In  conformity, 
therefore,  with  thefe  notions,  fo  natural  to  uncul 
tivated  man,  the  Moors  confider  thefe  unhappy 
perfons  as  being  under  the  fpecial  protection  of 
Heaven,  and  divinely  inspired.  Snperftition  here, 
as  perhaps  in  fome  other  inftances,  becomes  ad 
mirably  fubfervient  to  humanity  and  charity.  In 
confequence  of  this  prejudice,  the  moft  friendlcfs 
and  unprotected  race  of  mortals  find  friends  and 
protestors  in  the  populace  themfelves.  They  are 
fed  and  cloathed  gratis  wherever  they  wander, 
and  are  fometiines  loaded  with  prefents.  A  Moor 
might  with  as  much  fafety  offer  an  infult  to  the 
emperor  himfelf,  as  attempt  by  any  feverity  to 
reitrain  even  the  irregularities  of  thefe  reputed 
prophets. 

It  mufl  nor,  however,  be  diflembled,  that  opi 
nions  which  have  not  their  bafis  in  reafon  and 
philofophy  are  fddom  found  to  operate  uniformly 
for  the  advantage  of  fociety.  Independent  of  the 
wide  fcope  whicn  thefe  fuperftitious  notions  afford 
to  hypocrify,  numberlefs  are  the  evils  with  which 
they  are  attended,  fince  whatever  mifchief  thefe 
fuppo'ed  minifrers  of  heaven  may  perpetrate,  their 
perfons  are  always  facred.  It  is  not  long  fince 
there  was  a  faint  at  Morocco,  whofe  conftant  amufc- 
ment  was  to  wound  and  kill  whatever  perfons  un 
fortunately  fell  his  in  way;  yet,  in  fpite  of  th<? 
many  fatal  confequences  from  his  infanity,  he  was 
Aill  fuffered  to  go  at  large.  Such  was  the  malig 
nity  of  his  difpofition,  that  while  he  was  in  th^ 

very 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROC«O,  &C.  35 

very  act  of  prayer  he  would  watch  for  an  oppor 
tunity  to  throw  his  rofary  round  the  neck  of  fome 
pcrfon  within  his  reach,  with  an  intent  to  ftrangle- 
him.  While  I  refided  at  Morocco,  I  fenfibly  ex-' 
periencecl  the  inconvenience  of  coming  within  the 
vicinity  of  thefe  faints,  as  they  feemed  to  take  a 
particular  pleafure  in  infulting  and  annoying  Chrif-> 
tians. 

Befides  thefe,  I  may  mention  under  the  head  of 
faints  or  prophets,  the  Marabouts,  a  clafs  of  im 
porters  who  pretend  to  (kill  in  magic,  and  are 
highly  efteemed  by  the  natives.  They  lead  an  in 
dolent  life,  are  the  venders  of  fpells  and  charms, 
and  live  by  the  credulity  of  the  populace. 

There  is  alfo  among  thefe  people  a  fet  of  itiner 
ant  mountaineers,  who  pretend  to  be  the  favourites 
of  the  prophet  Mahomet,  and  that  no  kind  of  ve 
nomous  creatures  can  hurt  them.  But  the  moit 
fmgular  of  this  clafs  are  the  Sidi  Nafir,  or  make- 
eaters,  who  exhibit  in  public  upon  market-days,  and 
entertain  the  crowd  by  eating  live  fnakes,  and  per 
forming  juggling  deceptions.  I  was  once  prcfent- 
at  this  ftrange  fpecies  of  amufement,  and  faw  a 
man,  in  the  courfe  of  two  hours,  eat  a  living  fer- 
pent  of  four  feet  in  length.  He  danced  to  the 
found  of  wild  mufic,  vocal  and  inftrumerital,  with 
a  variety  of  odd  ge£ures  and  contortions,  feveral 
times  round  the  circle  formed  by  the  fpeftators.; 
He  then  began  his  attack  upon  trie  'tail,  after  he1 
had  recited  afhort  prayer,  in  which  he  was  joined' 
by  the  multitude.  This  ceremony  was  repeated 
at  intervals,  till  he  had  entirely  devoured  the 
faake^ 

Thus 


J<5  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Thus  far  by  way  of  digreffion ;  I  now  return 
to  the  courfe  of  my  narrative.  Early  in  the  even-* 
ing  of  the  fifth,  we  arrived  at  Mamora,  which  is 
diftant  about  fixty-four  miles  from  Larache.  It  is 
fituated  upon  a  hill  near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
Saboe,  the  waters  of  which,  gradually  widening 
in  their  courfe,  fall  into  the  Atlantic  at  this  place, 
~and  form  a  harbour  for  fmall  vefTels. 

Mamora,  like  the  generality  of  the  Moorish 
towns  through  which  I  pafTed,  contains  little 
worthy  of  observation.  While  it  was  in  the  pof- 
feflion  of  the  Portugueze  it  was  encompafTed  by  a 
double  wall,  which  ftill  remains  ,  it  had  alfo  other 
fortifications  which  are  deftroyed.  At  prefent,  it 
pofTefTes  only  a  fmall  fort  on  the  fea-fide. 

The  fertile  paftures,  the  extenfive  waters  and 
plantations,  which  we  pafTed  on  our  way  hither, 
have  already  been  remarked.  The  vicinity  of 
Mamora  is  equally  enchanting.  What  a  delight 
ful  refidence  wrould  it  be,  if  the  country  had  not 
the  misfortune  to  groan  under  an  arbitrary  go 
vernment  ! 

In  the  morning,  between  eight  and  nine,  we 
mounted  our  mules,  leaving  Mamora,  and  direft- 
ing  our  courfe  towards  Sallee ;  where  we  arrived 
between  one  and  two  at  noon,  after  having  tra 
velled  over  a  fpace  of  about  fifteen  miles.  The 
road  between  Mamora  and  Sallee,  is  in  excellent 
order,  and  tolerably  pleafant.  It  extends  along  a 
Vale,  towards  which  the  hills  gently  Hope  on  each 
fide. 

Within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  Sallee,  we  ar 
rived  at  an  aqueduft,  which  the  natives  aflert  to 

have 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCOj  &C.  37 

have  been  built  many  years  ago  by  the  Moors ; 
but  from  its  ftyle,  and  ftriking  marks  of  antiquity, 
it  bears  more  the  refemblance  of  a  piece  of  Roman 
architefture.  Its  walls,  which  are  remarkably 
thick  and  high,  extend  in  length  for  about  halt 
a  mile,  and  have  three  ftupendous  arch-ways 
opening  to  the  road,  through  one  of  which  we 
naffed  on  our  way  to  Sallee.  Although  tune  has 
laid  its  deftruaive  hand  in  fome  degree  on  this 
ancient  piece  of  architecture,  yet  it  ftill  feryes  the 
purpofe  of  fupplying  the  town  of  Sallee  with  ex 
cellent  water. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


C  H  A  P.    III. 

Defcriptlon  of  SALLEE. — Piracies. — Curious  Letter  of 
MULEY  ZIDAN  to  King  CHARLES  I. — Brutal  Cc-K- 
cluEl  of  a  Muleteer. — Hanclfome  Behaviour  of  the  French 
Conful. — Dejcription  of  RABAT. —  'Journey  from  RA 
BAT  to  MOGODORE. — Violent  Storm. — Ruins  ofYA- 

DALA. — DAR  BEYDA AZAMORE, — Melancholy  A- 

ntcdoie  of  an  Engli/Jj  Surgeon. — MAZAGAN.—  DYN 
MEDINA  RABJEA. — SAFFI. — General  Slate  of  the 
Country. — Dtfcripllon  of  M o  G  0 D o  R  E. 

HPHE  name  of  Sallee  is  famous  in  hiftory,  and 
-*•  has  decorated  many  a  well-told  tale.  Thofe 
piratical  vefiels  which  \vere  fitted  out  from  this 
port,  and  which  were  known  by  the  name  of  Sal- 
lee-rcvers,  were  long  the  terror  of  the  mercantile 
world.  Equally  dreaded  for  their  valour  and 
their  cruelty,  the  adventurers  who  navigated  thefe 
fwift  and  formidable  veffels,  depopulated  the  ocean, 
and  evren  dared  fometimes  to  extend  their  devaila- 
tions  to  the  Chriftian  coafts.  As  plunder  was 
their  fole  aim,  in  the  acquifition  of  it  nothing  im 
peded  their  career.  Human  life  was  of  no  value  in 
their  eftimation,  or  if  it  was  fometimes  fpared,  it 
was  not  through  any  fentiment  of  juftice  or  compaf- 
fion,  but  only  that  it  might  be  protradled  in  the  mod 
wretched  of  fituations,  as  the  hopelefs  (lave  to  the 
luxury  and  caprice  of  a  fellow  mortal.  The  town 
of  Sallee  in  its  prefent  (late,  though  large,  pre- 
fents  nothing  worthy  the  obfervation  of  the  tra 
veller,  except  a  battery  of  twenty-four  pieces  of 
cannon  fronting  the  fca,  and  a  redoubt  at  the  en 
trance 


K 

A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C/  39 

trance  of  the  river,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  broad,  and  penetrates  feveral  miles  into  the: 
interior  country. 

On  the  fide  oppofjte  to  Sallee  is  fituated  the 
town  of  Rabat,  which  formerly  partook  equally 
with  Sallee  In  its  piratical  depredations,  and  was 
generally  confounded  with  it.  While  Sallee  and 
Rabat  were  thus  formidable,  they  were  what 
might  be  termed  independent  ftates,  paying  only 
a  very  fmall  tribute  to  the  emperor,  and  barely 
acknowledging  him  for  their  fovereign.  This 
ftate  of  independence  undoubtedly  gave  uncom 
mon  vigour  to  their  piratical  exertions.  Few 
will  take  much  pains,  or  encounter  great  rifles  for 
the  acquifition  of  wealth,  without  the  certainty 
of  enjoying  it  unmoleiled.  Sidi  Mahomet,  how 
ever,  when  prince,  fubdued  thcfe  towi\s,  and  an 
nexed  them  to  the  empire.  This  was  a  mortal 
blow  to  their  piracies;  for  when  thofe  defperate 
manners  felt  the  uncertainty  of  pofleiEng  any 
length  of  time  their  captures,  they  no  longer  be 
came  felicitous  to  acquire  them;  and  at  length, 
*  when  the  man  who  had  deprived  them  of  their 
privileges  became  emperor,  he  put  a  total  flop  to 
their  depredations,  by  declaring  himfelf  at  peace 
with  all  Europe.  Since  that  period  the  entrance 
of  the  river  has  been  fo  gradually  filling  up  with 
fand  wafhed  in  by  the  fea,  that  was  it  poffible  for 
thefe  people  to  recover  their  independence,  it 
would  incapacitate  them  for  carrying  on  their 
piracies  to  their  former  ex  tent  . 

Having 

*  In  perufing  the  maniifcripts  of  a  gentleman  lately  de  • 
ceafed,  who  formerly    redded  a  number  of  years   in  this 

Empire, 


40  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCOj  &C. 

Having  a  letter  of  recommendation  to  Mr.  De 
Rocher,  the  French  conful-general,  I  -was  ferried 
over  the  river  to  Rabat,  where  he  refides,  and  met 
with  a  very  polite  reception.  Upon  landing  my 

Empire,  it  appears  that  Sallee  was,  fofar  back  as  the  year 
1648,  eminent  for  its  piracies  and  independence,  and  that 
it  became  an  object  of  conqueft  to  the  monarch  of  that 
time.  He  exprefles  himfelf  in  thefe  words  : — 

"  Sallee  is  a  city  in  the  province  of  Fez,  and  derives  its 
name  from  the  river  Sala,  on  which  it  is  fituated,  near  its 
influx  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  It  was  a  place  of  good 
commerce,  till  addicting  itfelf  entirely  to  piracy,  and  re 
volting  from  its  allegiance  to  its  fovereign  Muley  Zidan, 
that  prince,  in  the  year  1648,  difpatched  an  embaffy  to 
Xing  Charles  I.  of  England,  requeuing  him  to  fend  a 
Jquadron  of  men  of  war  to  lie  before  the  town,  while  he  at 
tacked  it  by  land.  This  requeft  being  confented  to,  the 
city  was  foon  reduced,  the  fortifications  demolished,  and 
the  leaders  of  the  rebellion  put  to  death.  The  year  fol 
lowing  the  Emperor  fent  another  ambaffador  to  England, 
with  a  prefent  of  Barbary  horfes  and  three  hundred  Chrif- 
tian  (laves,  accompanied  with  the  following  letter.  I  infert 
it  as  a  fpecimen  of  the  loftinefs  of  the  Moorifh  ftyle,  and 
becaufe  it  leads  me  to  think,  that  Muley  Zidan  was  a  more 
enlightened  prince  than  moft  of  his  predeceffbrs.  Neither 
the  addrefs,  fignature,  nor  reception  it  met  with  at  our 
court,  is  exprefled  in  the  manufcript.  It  appears  to  be  a 
modern  tranflation,  and  is  as  follows : 

"  The  King  of  Morocco's  Letter  to  King  Charles  the  Frift 
of  England,  1649.     Muley  Zidan. 

41  WHEN  thefe  our  letters  fhall  be  fo  happy  as  to  come 
to  your  Majefty's  fight,  I  wifh  the  fpirit  of  the  righteous 
God  may  fo  direct:  your  mind,  that  you  may  joyfully  em 
brace  the  meflage  I  fend.  The  regal  power  allotted  to  us, 
makes  us  common  fervants  to  our  Creator,  then  of  thofe 
people  whom  we  govern  ;  fo  obferving  the  duties  we  owe 
to  God,  we  deliver  bleflings  to  the  world  in  providing  for 
the  public  good  of  our  eftates  ;  we  magnify  the  honour  of 
God,  like  the  celeftial  bodies,  which,  though  they  have 

much 


A  TOTTR  TO  MOROCCQ,  &C.  4! 

baggage  a  very  warm  difpme  arofe  between  the 
muleteer  and  my  interpreter,  concerning  the 
method  of  packing  it  on  the  mules  again,  for 
the  purpofe  of  carrying  it  to  the  confuTs  houfe. 

much  veneration,  yet  ferve  only  to  the  benefit  of  the  world. 
It  is  the  excellency  otour  office  to  be  instruments,  where 
by  happinefs  is  delivered  wnto  the  nations.  Pardon  me, 
Sir  !  This  is  not  to  inftrucl,  for  I  know  I  fpeak  to  one  of  a 
more  clear  and  quick  fight  than  myfelf ;  but  I  fpeak  this, 
becaufe  God  hath  pleafed  to  grant  me  a  happy  victory  over 
fome  part  of  thofe  rebellious  pirates,  that  fo  long  have 
molefted  the  peaceable  tiade  ot  Europe;  and  hath  pre- 
fented  further  occafion  td  root  out  the  generation  of  thofe, 
who  have  been  fo  pernicious  to  the  good  of  our  nations  : 
I  mean,  fince  it  hath  pleafed  God  to  be  fo  aiifpicious  in  our 
beginnings,  in  the  conqueft  of  Sallee,  that  we  might  join' 
and  proceed  in  hope  of  like  fuccefs  in  the  war  of  Tunis,  Al 
giers,  and  other  places ;  dens  and  receptacles  for  the  in 
human  villages  of  thofe  who  abhor  rule  and  government. 
Herein  while  weinterupt  the  corruption  of  malignant  fpirifs- 
of  the  world,  we  ftiall  glorify  Che  great  God,  and  perform1 
a  duty  that  will  fhine  as  glorious  as  the  fur,  and  moon, 
which  all  the  earth  may  fee  and  reverence:  a  wo;k  that 
fliall  afand  as  fweet  as  the  perfume  of  the  mod  precious 
odours,  in  the  nofirils  of  the  Lord  :  a  work  whofe  memory 
fhall  be  reverenced  fo  long  as  there  (hall  be  any  rema'n'ng 
among  men :  a  work  grateful  and  happy  to  men  who  love 
and  honour  the  piety  and  virtue  of  ncble  minds.  This 
acYion  I  'here  willingly  prefent  to  you,  whofe  piety  and  vir 
tues  equal  the  gresitnefs  of  your  power ;  that  we,  who  are 
vicegerents  to  the  great  and  mighty  God,  may  hand  in  hand 
triumph  in  the  glory  which  the  action  prefents  unto  us. — 
Now,  becaufe  the  iflands  which  you  govern,  have  been 
ever  famous  for  the  unconquercd  ftrength  of  their  fhipping, 
1  have  fentthis  my  trufly  fervant  and  ambafTador,  to  know 
whether,  in  your  princely  wifdcm,  you  fhall  think  fit  to 
a-flifl  me  with  fuch  forces  by  fea,  as  fhall  be  anfwerable  to 
thofe  1  provide  by  land  ;  which  if  you  pleaf«  to  grant,  I 
doubt  not  but  the  Lord  of  Hofts  will  protect  and  afiift  thofe 
that  fight  in  fo  glorious  a  caufe.  Nor  ought  >ou  to  think 

this 


42  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Both  parties  appeared  fo  very  ftrenuous  in  their 
caufe,  that  neither  of  them  paid  any  attention  to 
my  interference ;  and  it  was  at  length  carried  to 
fucli  excefs,  that  the  muleteer  ftruck  my  interpre- 
'  ter.  Upon  feeing  this,  I  could  no  longer  remain 
a  filent  fpeftator,  and  I  have  reafon  to  fear  my 
warmth  was  almoft  as  intemperate  as  that  of  the 
difputants.  The  blow  was  given  in  fo  brutal  a 
manner,  that  I  could  with  difficulty  reflrain  myfelf 
from  immediately  returning  it.  -  It  was  fortunate, 
however,  that  I  ftill  poffefTed  fufficient  coolnefs  to 
reflect  on  the  impropriety  of  fuch  a  proceeding, 
and  I  directed  one  of  my  Mooriih  foldiers  to  punifh 
the  muleteer.  By  means  of  long  leather  ft  raps 
which  he  always  carried  about  him,  my  Negro 
deputy  performed  his  part  fo  well  on  the  back  of 
the  delinquent,  that  he  was  foon  glad  to  fall  on 
his  knees,  and  intreat  a  pardon  both  from,  myfelf 
and  the  interpreter.  I  was  more  defirous  of 
punifaing  this  infult  for  the  fake  of  eftabliftiing  my 
authority  and  confequence  with  the  foldiers,  than 

this  ftrange,  that  I,  whofo  much  reverenced  the  peace  and 
accord  of  nations,  fliould  exhort  to  war.  Your  great  pro 
phet,  Clirirt  Jelus,  was  the  lion  of  the  tribe  ofjudah,  as 
well  as  the  Lord  and  giver  of  peace ;  which  may  fignify 
unto  you,  that  he  who  is  a  lover  and  maintainer  of  peace, 
muft  always  appear  with  the  terror  of  his  fword,  and, 
wading  through  feas  of  blood,  muft  arrive  at  tranquillity. 
This  made  James  your  father,  of  glorious  memory,  fo  hapr 
pily  renowned  among  nations  — It  was  the  noble  fame  of 
your  princely  virtues,  which  refounds  to  the  utmoft  corners 
of  the  earth,  that  perfuaded  me  to  invite  you  to  partake  cf 
that  blefling,  wherein  I  boaft  myfelf  mod  happy.  I  with 
God  may  heap  the  riches  of  his  blcflings  on  yon,  increafe 
your  happinefs  with  your  days,  and  hereafter  perpetuate 
the  great  nefs  of  your  name  hi  all  ages." 

fro;n 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  43 

from  an  intention  of  revenging  the  caufe  of  the 
Jew,  for  I  could  not  find  out  which  of  the  difpu- 
tants  was  in  the  wrong  ;  but  as  my  attendants 
had  on  two  or  three  former  occafions  (hewn  a 
difpofition  to  be  troublefome,  and  as  fo  glaring  an 
indignity  was  offered  to  the  perfon  who  looked  up 
to  me  for  proteftion,  I  was  determined  to  avail 
myfelf  of  this-  opportunity  of  convincing  them 
that  it  was  their  duty  to  pay  me  every  attention. 

Mr.  De  Rocher,  who  refides  in  an  excellent 
houfe  built  at  the  expence  of  his  court,  and  who 
is  the  only  European  in  the  place,  has  happily 
blended  original  Englifh  hofpitality  with  that  eafy 
politenefs  which  characterizes  his  own  nation. 
He  gave  me  ib  preffing  an  invitation  to  fpend  an 
other  day  with  him,  that  though  anxious  to  make 
an  end  of  my  journey,  I  could  not  refift  his  urg 
ent  folickations. 

The  town  of  Rabat,  whole  walls  enclofe  a  large 
fpace  of  ground,  is  defended  on  the  fea-fide  by 
three  forts  tolerably  well  finifhed,  which  were 
eredled  fome  little  time  ago "by  an  Englifh  rene- 
gado,  and  furnifhed  with  g§ns  from  Gibraltar. 
The  houfcs  in  general  are  good,  and  many  of  the 
inhabitants  are  wealthy.  The  Jews,  who  are  very 
numerous  in  this  place,  are  generally  in  better 
circumfbnces  than  thofe  of  Larache  or  Tangier, 
and  their  women  are  by  far  more  beautiful  than 
at  any  other  town  which  1  faw  in  this  empire.  I 
was  introduced  to  one  family  in  particular,  where, 
out  of  eight  lifters,  nature  had  been  fo  lavifti  to  them 
all,  that  I  felt  myfelf  at  a  lofs  to  determine  which 
was  the  handfomefh  A  combination  of  regular 
features,  clearnels  of  complexion,  and  expreflive 

black 


44  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

black  eyes,  gave  them  a  diflinguifhed  pre-eminence 
over  their  nation  in  general ;  and  their  perfons, 
though  not  improved  by  the  advantages  which 
the  European  ladies  derive  from  drefs,  were  ftill 
replete  with  grace  and  elegance. 

The  caftl^,  which  is  very  extenfive,  contains  a 
ftrong  building,  formerly  ufed  by  the  late  empe 
ror  as  his  principal  treafury,  and  a  noble  terrace, 
which  commands  an  extenfive  profpect  of  the 
town  of  Sallee,  the  ocean,  and  all  the  neighbour 
ing  country.  There  are  alfo  the  ruins  of  another 
caftle,  which  is  iaid  to  have  been  built  by  Jacob 
Almonzor,  one  of  their  former  emperors,  and  of 
which  at  prefent  very  little  remains  but  its  walls,- 
containing  within  them  fome-  very  ftrong  maga 
zines  for  powder  and  naral  {tores.  On  the  out- 
fide  of  thefe  walls  is  a  very  high  and  fquare  to\ver, 
handfomely  built  of  cut  ftone,  and  called  the  tower 
of  HafTcn.  From  the  workmaflfhip  of  this  tower, 
cont rafted  with  the  other  buildings,  a  very  accu 
rate  idea  may  be  formed  how  greatly  the  Moor  a 
have  degenerated  from  their  former  fplendour  and 
tafte  for  architecture. 

In  the  evening  tfie  conful  introduced  me  to  Sidi 
'Mahomet  Effendi,  the  emperor's  prime  minifter, 
who  was  at  Rabat,  on  his  way  to  Tangier.  I 
found  him  a  well-bred  man,  and  he  received  me 
very  gracioufly.  After  fome  converfation  on  the 
purpoie  of  my  journey,  he  dcfired  I  would  feel 
his  pulfe,  and  acquaint  him  whether  or  not  he 
was  in  health.  Upon  alluring  him  that  he  was 
perfectly  well,  he  cxprefTed  in  ftrong  terms  the 
obligation  I  had  conferred  on  him  by  fuch  agree 
able  information ;  and  having  wiflied  me  fucceis 

in 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  4J 

in  my  journey  and  enterprize,  we  mutually  took 
our  leave. 

I  availed  myfelf  of  my  delay  at  Rabat  to  get 
the  lame  mule  changed,  and  direfted  my  Negro 
foldiers  to  arrange  our  affairs  in  fuch  a  manner 
that  we  might  leave  the  place  early  the  next  morn 
ing.  Mr  De  Rocher,  in  addition  to  the  kindneis 
I  had  already  experienced,  ordered  a  quantity  of 
bread,  which  at  this  place  is  remarkably  good,  to 
be  packed  up  for  my  ufe,  as  well  as  a  proportion 
able  {hare  of  cold  meat,  and  as  much  wine  as  we 
could  conveniently  carry  with  us.  This  ieafon- 
able  fupply  lafted  me  three  days,  and  gave  me  time 
to  recover  in  fome  degree  my  former  reliih  for 
fowls  and  eggs. 

Though  I.muft  acknowledge  that  the  attention 
and  comforts  which  I  experienced  during  my  fhort 
Hay  at  Rabat  proved  a  great  relief,  after  the  in 
conveniences  I  had  undergone  in  travelling  thither, 
yet  on  the  whole,  I  perhaps  fuffered  more  from 
the  idea  of  having  fimilar  inconveniences  to  thofe 
I  had  already  experienced  ftill  to  encounter,  with 
out  a  profpeft  of  a  fimilar. ijleviation,  than  if  I 
had  continued  the  whole  journey  in  an  uninter- . 
rupted  ftate.  The  confideration  that  I  was  to  pafs 
day  after  day  through  a  country  where  there  is 
little  to  a  mule  the  eye ;  that  I  had  no  companion 
with  whom  I  could  converfe,  or  to  whom  I  could 
communicate  my  fentiments  -,  and  that  I  was  to 
travel  the  whole  day  at  the  tedious  pace  of  three 
miles  an  hour,  and  at  a  feafon  of  the  year  when 
the  coldnefs  of  the  mornings  and  evenings  were 
a  very  indifferent  preparation  for  the  heats  which 
ilicceeded  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  altogether 

preffed 


4^>  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

prefled  fo  flrongly  upon  my  mind,  that  I  muft 
confefs  I  could  not  help  experiencing  a  confidera- 
ble  dejeftion  of  fpirits  at  the  idea  of  leaving  Ra 
bat*. 

*  The  Abbe  Poiret's  remarks  on  travelling  in  Barbary 
are  fo  appofite  and  fo  juft,  that  I  truft  I  (ball  be  excufed 
for  introducing  a  quotation  from  that  author. — In  one  of 
his  letters  he  fays,  "  I  have  never  known  (o  well  how  to 
appreciate  the  advantages  of  living  in  a  polifhed  nation,  as 
ilnce  I  have  redded  among  a  barbarous  people.  Never 
lias  the  convenience  of  our  highways  ftruck  me  fo  much, 
as  when  1  have  been  obliged  to  travel  through  thick  woeds 
and  deep  marines .  How  much  would  a  peregrination  of 
eight  days,  in  the  manner  I  have  travelled  for  fome  time 
paft,  change  the  ideas  of  thofe  delicate  Europeans  who 
are  continually  complaining  of  bad  inns,  and  of  the  fatigues 
they  endure  in  their  journeys!  In  this  country  there  are 
neither  inns,  poft-chaifes,  nor  obliging  and  attentive  land 
lords.  One  mud  not  expeft  to  find  here  broad  highways, 
beaten  and  lhady  paths,  or  places  for  repofing  and  refrelh- 
ing  one's-felf;  too  happy,  if,  at  the  end  of  a  fatiguing  jour 
ney,  one  can  meet  with  a  final  1  hut,  or  a  wretched  couch  ! 
But  this  is  feldom  to  be  expected." 

Again,  in  another  letter,  "  How  often  mud  you  depart 
in  the  morning,  without  knowing  where  you  will  arrive  in 
the  evening !  How  oftM^fingyourfclf  in  thefe  deferts,  muft 
you  fearch  out  your  way  amid  ft  thorny  brakes,  thick  fbrefts, 
;snd  deep  rocks ;  fometimes  (lopped  by  a  river  which  you 
mull  wade  through,  by  a  lake  which  you  muft  walk  round, 
or  by  a  marlh  which  you  cannot  crofs  without  danger! 
fometimes  fcorched  by  the  lunger  drenched  by  the  rain, 
and  at  others  dying  with  thirft,  without  being  able  to  find 
the  fmalleft  fpring  to  quench  it !  If  you  carry  no  provi- 
ilons  with  you,  it  will  be  impotlible  for  you  to  take  any 
refrefhment  before  night.  This  is  the  only  time  at  which 
the  Moors  make  a  regular  repaft,  or  can  offer  any  food  to 
a  flranger.  But  when  night  arrives,  thru  period  of  repofc 
for  the  traveller  in  Europe,  it  is  not  fo  for  the  African  tra 
veller.  He  muft  then  choofe  out  a  dry  iituation,  and  well 
iheltercd,  to  ere 61  his  tent  5  he  muft  unfaddle  his  horfes, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  47 

In  confequence  of  the  indolence  of  my  attend 
ants,  my  baggage  was  not  completely  packed  up 
on  the  8th  till  between  ten  and  eleven  in  the  morn 
ing,  when  I  left  the  hofpitable  roof  of  Mr  De 
Rocher,  and  proceeded  on  my  journey  fo?r  Dar 
Beyda,  the  next  town  which  offered  itfelf  on  my 
way  to  Mogodore. 

With  all  the  inconveniences  which  I  had  hither 
to  experienced,  I  had  reaibn  to  think  myfelf  very 
fortunate  in  having  fuch  fine  weather ;  for  this 
was  the  feafon  when  the  heavy  rains  ufually  come 
on,  and  when  a  fhower  of  half  an  hour's  continu 
ance  would  wet  more  than  the  rain  of  a  whole  day 
in  England.  Dry  weather  had  accompanied  us 
the  whole  of  the  road  from  Tangier  to  Rabat, 
and  the  heat  from  the  hours  of  eleven  to  three 
was  violent ;  but,  as  I  have  juft  before  obferved, 
previous  to,  and  after  thole  hours,  the  air  was  un 
commonly  cool.  As  an  alleviation  to  the  great 
heat,  we  found  the  water-melons  and  pomegra 
nates  between  Rabat  and  Mogodore  of  a  mofl  de 
licious  flavour,  and  of  particular  ufe  in  allaying 
the  exceffive  thirft.  and  removing  the  fatigue  we 
experienced  from  the  journey.  Thefe  fruits  grow 
common  in  the  open  ground,  and  we  only  paid  two 
blanquils,  or  three-pence  Englifli  a- piece,  for  wa 
ter-melons,  which  w*ere  fufficiently  large  to  ferve 

unload  his  mules,  cut  wood,  light  iires,  and  take  every 
precaution  that  prudence  dictates,  to  defend  himfelf  againft 
ferocious  animals  and  robbers.  It  is  fafeit  to  encamp  not 
far  from  the  tents  of  the  Arabs,  when  one  can  find  them. 
They  furnifli  many  fuccours  when  they  are  traclable,  and 
they  are  always  ib  when  they  fee  o'fte  with  a  fufrkient 
guard."— See  a  tranflation  cf  the  Abbe  Poiret's  travels 
through  Barbary,  Letter  viii. 

4  half 


48  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

half  a  dozen  people.  I  could  not  help  observing 
how  provident  nature  has  been,  in  granting  in 
.fiich  plenty,  fruits  fo  well  calculated  for  the  na 
tives  of  warm  climates.  Indeed,  many  of  the 
poor  in  this  country  have  fcarcely  any  other  pro- 
vifions  than  fruit  and  bread. 

At  the  time  of  our  departure  the  appearance  in 
the  atmofphere  promifed  us  a  continuance  of  the 
fame  fine  weather  we  had  hitherto  experienced ; 
and  it  continued  fo  till  we  had  patted  three  fmall 
ftreams  which  the  Moors  name  the  Hitcumb,  Slier- 
rat,  and  Bornica.  Thefe,  after  the  heavy  rains 
have  fallen,  fwell  out  into  deep  and  rapid  rivers, 
and  are  frequently  rendered  totally  impafTable,  ex 
cept  in  boats  or  on  rafts.  About  five  in  the  eve 
ning,  however,  very  heavy  and  black  clouds  be 
gan  to  affemble,  and  very  fliortly  after  followed 
a  mofl  fevere  florm.  It  was  a  dreadful  union 
of  wind,  hail,  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning. 
From  darknefs  approaching  fail  upon  us,  we  be^ 
came  very  anxious  to  find  o'ut  a  place  of  fafety 
where  we  might  pitch  our  tent,  and  for  that  pur- 
pofe  fpnrred  our  beails ;  but  no  excitement  from 
the  fpur  or  whip  could  induce  them  to  face  the 
florin,  and  we  were  obliged  to  wait  a  full  hour  in 
a  ftate  of  inaftivity,  till  its  violence  was  over. 
We  then  pufhed  on  till  we  arrived  at  a  .couple 
of  Arab  tents,  pitched  in  an  open  country :  bad 
ss  this  Situation  was,  we  however  rejoiced  in  be 
ing  able  to  fix  our  tent  for  the  night,  even  in  this 
iinibciable  fpot. 

On  the  pth  of  October,  it  having  rained  the 
\vhole  night,  we  were  detained  till  between  ten 
and  eleven  in  the  morning  in  drying  the  tenr, 

which 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  49 

which  from  its  being  quite  wet,  was  become  too 
heavy  for  the  mules  to  carry  with  the  other  bag- 
g:ige  ,  we  then  purfued  our  journey,  and  at  twelve, 
arrived  at  the  ruins  of  Menfboria.  There  was 
formerly  a  cattle  on  this  fpot,  which  from  the  ex 
tent  of  its  walls,  and  a  fquare  tower  which  form 
the  whole  of  the  ruins,  appears  to  have  been  a 
very  large  building.  My  foldiers  informed  me, 
that  it  had  been  the  refidence  of  a  prince  who  was 
in  opposition  to  his  ibvereign;  and  who  was  obli 
ged  to  defeit  it.  The  building  was  dcjftroyed  by 
the  then  reigning  emperor,  and  the  intermediate 
ground  is  now  inhabited  by  a  few  Negroes,  living 
in  fmall  huts,  who  were  baniftied  thither  for 
having  on  fome  occafion  incurred  the  difpleafure 
of  the  emperor.  In  an  arbitrary  country,  where 
the  pofTeflion  of  the  throne  depends  more  on  the 
will  of  the  foldiers  than  on  the  rights  of  fuccef- 
fion,  the  defpot  confiders  that  caftles  may  prove 
rather  places  of  fecurity  for  his  opponents,  than 
of  any  great  utility  to  himfelf ;  he  therefore  either 
ftifFers  them  to  decay,  or  deftroys  them  entirely, 
according  to  the  di6t.ar.es  of  his  caprice.  Indeed 
every  town  through  which  I  pa  (Ted  in  the  empire 
affords  ftriking  marks  of  the  truth  of  this  affer- 
tion. 

Soon  after  our  leaving  Menfooria  we  came  up 
to  Fadala,  having  forded  in  our  way  the  river  In- 
ielic.  Fadala  whilft  its  ruins  exift,  will  be  a  laft- 
ing  monument  of  Sidi  Mahomet's  caprice.  It 
confifts  of  the  (hell  of  a  town,  began  by  him  in 
the  early  part  of  his  reign,  but  never  finifhed.  It 
is  enclofed  within  a  fquare  wall,  and  is  furniihed 
v,-].ih  a  mofque  (the  only  building  that  v/as  com- 
I)  pleted 


£O  A  TOUR  TO  M CHOC  CO,  &C. 

pleated)  for  the  ufe  of  the  inhabitants,  who,  like 
thofe  of  Meniboria,  live  in  huts  in  the  intermedi 
ate  ground.  To  the  right  of  Faclala  we  obferved 
a  fmall  but  apparently  neat  palace,  which  my  at 
tendants  informed  me  was  built  by  the  late  em 
peror  for  his  occafional  ufe,  when  bufinefs  led  him 
to  travel  that  way. 

The  remainder  of  our  journey  to  Dar  Beyda, 
where  we  arrived  about  fix  in  the  evening,  af 
forded  nothing  remarkable,  excepting  that  we 
pafTed  over  a  double  bridge,  which  is  the  only 
piece  of  architecture  of  the  kind  that  I  faw  in  the 
country.  It  is  the  work  of  Sidi  Mahomet,  and 
is  built  of  ftone.  The  country  between  Rabat 
and  Dar  Btyda,  a  diftance  of  about  forty-four 
miles,  is  one  continuation  of  barrennefs  and 
rock. 

Dar  Beyda  is  a  fmall  fea-port  of  very  little  im 
portance  ;  it  poiledes,  however,  a  bay  which  ad 
mits  vefTels  of  pretty  confiderable  burthen  to 
anchor  in  it  with  tolerable  fafety,  except  when 
the  wind  blows  hard  at  north-weft,  and  then  they 
are  liable  to  be  driven  on  fhore.  Upon  my  arri 
val,  I  was  immediately  introduced  to  the  gover 
nor,  who  was  then  in  the  audience-chamber,  at 
tending  to  the  complaints  of  the  inhabitants.  Af 
ter  offering  me  his  fervices,  and  begging  my 
acceptance  of  a  few  fowls,  he  loon  left  us  in  the 
pofledion  of  the  room  where  we  flept  that  night. 

On  the  loth  of  October  we  departed  for  Aza- 
more,  about  fifty-fix  miles  diftant,  between  feven 
and  eight  in  the  morning-,  and  after  a  journey  of 
two  days  came  up  to  the  Morbeya,  ar  the  mouth 
and  louthern  fide  of  which  is  fjtuated  Azamorc. 

The 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  5! 

The  river  is  To  wide  and  deep  here,  that  it  is  ne- 
cefTary  to  be  ferried  over,  and  a  large  boat  is  con 
tinually  employed  for  that  purpofe. 

We  had  no  fooner  got  all  our  baggage,  our 
mules,  and  ourfelves  into  the  boat,  and  were 
ready  to  row  off,  than  a  moil  violent  difpute 
arofe  between  my  Negro  foldters  and  the  ferry 
men.  As  it  was  no  new  circumftance  to  me  to 
be  a  witnefs  to  thefe  altercations,  I  remained  very 
quietly  in  the  boat  till  I  obferved  that  one  of  the 
ferry-men  was  putting  every  thing  on  fhore  again, 
whilfl  another  was  collaring  one  of  the  foldiers. 
In  fact,  matters  were  proceeding  to  fuch  extre 
mities,  that  I  thought  it  was  full  time  to  interfere. 

Upon  inquiry,  I  was  informed  that  the  propri 
etor  of  the  ferry  farmed  the  river  from  the  empe 
ror,  and  that  iu  confequence  of  it  he  was  allowed, 
all  the  perquifites  of  the  ferry  ;  that  my  foldiers 
infilled  that  as  I  was  in  the  emperor's  fervice,  it 
was  the  duty  of  the  people  to  ferry  me,  my  bag 
gage,  &c.  without  receiving  any  reward  for  their 
trouble.  Yvrhich  of  the  two  were  in  the  right  I 
could  not  pretend  to  determine ;  but  I  was  very 
glad  to  end  the  difpute,  by  paying  the  ufnal  de 
mand.  After  a  few  curies  on  both  fides,  the  bag 
gage  and  mules  were  replaced  in  the  boat,  and  we 
were  ferried  over  to  Azamore. 

In  a  country  where  arts  and  fciences  are  totally 
neglecled,  and  where  the  hand  of  deipotifm  has 
deflroyed  public  fpirit,  and  deprefTed  all  private 
exertion,  it  is  obvious,  that  confiderable  tracts 
muil  occur  which  are  productive  of  nothing  de- 
ierving  of  notice.  This  was  precifely  the  cafe  in 
rny  journey  from  Dar  Beyda  to  Azamore,  which 
D  2  prefented 


$2  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C» 

prtTented  to  our  view  one  continued  chain  of 
rocks  and  barrennefs,  unpleafant  and  fatiguing 
roads,  without  any  one  object  to  vary  the  icene, 
or  to  intereft  curiofity. 

Azamore  is  a  lea-port  town  on  the  Atlantic 
ocean,  fituated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Morbeya  ; 
and  though  a  large  place,  is  neither  ornamented 
\vith  public  buildings,  nor  has  any  thing  remark 
able  in  its  hiftory  or  iltuation. 

In  compliance  with  the  particular  requeft  of  one 
of  my  foldiers  whole  near  relations  refide  at  Aza- 
niorc,  I  continued  here  the  remainder  of  the  day, 
and  was  lodged  in  a  room  of  a  Moorim,  honie, 
which  was  fecluded  from  the  family.  Soon  after 
my  arrival  I  was  vifited  by  a  Jew  in  an  European 
drefs,  who  had  formerly  lived  with  one  of  th« 
Englifli  confuls,  and  who  {poke  the  Engliih  lan 
guage  with  tolerable  fluency.  He  took  me  to  his 
houle,  and  there  received  me  with  great  hofpi- 
tality,  infilling  on  my  dining  with  him,  and  mak 
ing  ufe  of  his  houfe  as  my  own.  After  dinner  he 
fhewed  me  the  different  parts  of  the  town  -9  and 
in  the  courfe  of  our  converiation  requeued  me  to  be 
particularly  cautious  how  I  conducted  myfelf  with 
the  prince  whom  I  was  going  to  attend-,  obierving, 
that  the  Moors  were  extremely  fickle,  and  their 
conduct  governed  merely  by  the  caprice  of  the 
moment.  To  enforce  this  caution,  he  related  to 
me  a  flory,  from  which  I  learned  that  an  Euro 
pean  furgeon  had  at  fome  former  period,  attended 
a  prince  of  Morocco,  who,  neglecting  his  advice 
when  under  his  care,  had  increafed  his  malady  5 
that  this  circumftance  fo  alarmed  the  prince  that 
he  feat  for  the  furgeon,  and  upon  his  appearance 

produced 


A  TOUH  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  53 

produced  a  piftol.  The  unfortunate  man,  alarmed 
and  diftrefled  by  fuch  unworthy  treatment,  haftily 
withdrew,  and  in  a  fhort  time  put  an  end  to  his 
cxiftence. 

On  the  1 3th  of  Oftober,  having  taken  leave  of 
my  Jewifh  acquaintance,  and  my  foldiers  of  their 
friends,  we  fet  off  at  eight  in  the  morning  for  the 
town  of  Saffi,  where  we  arrived  on  the  evening  of 
the  1 5th,  after  a  journey  of  about  fifty-feven  miles. 
The  country  we  paired  through  was  rocky  and 
barren,  producing  fcarcely  a  tree,  or  indeed  any 
verdure  whatever. 

Soon  after  leaving  Azamore,  the  town  of  Maza- 
gan  prdeated  itfelf  to  our  view  to  cur  right. 
This  place  was  taken  a  few  years  fince  by  Sidi 
Mahomet  from  the  Portugneze  5  a  conqueft  of 
which  his  Mooriih  majefty  made  a  very  pompous 
boaft,  though  it  is  well  known  that  the  Portu- 
gueze,  from  the  great  inconvenience  and  expence 
of  keeping  up  the  garriibn,  without  deriving  any 
material  advantage  from  it,  had  come  to  a  refo- 
lution  to  evacuate  it  before  the  emperor's  attack, 
and  for  that  purpofe  had  aftually  begun  to  em 
bark  their  goods  and  property.  As,  however, 
the  emperor  was  determined  to  exhibit  ibme  fpe- 
cimen  of  his  military  prowefs  and  addrefs,  this 
circumftance  clid  not  deter  Kim  from  commencing 
a  regular  iiege.  A  magazine  for  military  ftores 
(which  may  be  feen  from  the  road)  was  raifej 
with  the  utmoft  expedition,  and  the  attack  was 
carried  on  with  all  the  vigour  and  ability  which 
his  Moorifti  majefty  was  capable  of  exerting. 
The  Portugiieze  defended  the  town  no  longer 
than  was  necelTary  to  allow  time  to  carry  away 
D  3  their 


54  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C, 

their  effects  and  valuables ;  it  was  then  fur- 
rendered,  cr  more  properly,  abandoned,  to  the 
Moors. 

On  the  day  of  our  arrival  at  SafM,  we  pafTed  by 
the  ruins  of  a  town,  which  was  once  large  and 
conlickrable.  It  was  built  by  a  former  emperor, 
named  Muley  Ocom  Monfor,  and  is  now  called 
by  the  name  of  Dyn  Medina  Rabcea,  Its  only 
remains  at  prdent  are  remarkably  thick  and  ex- 
tcnftve  v/alls,  which  inclofe  gardens  and  huts* 
inhabited  by  difbandecl  Negro  ioldiers. 

Safii  is  a  fea-port  town,  fituated  at  the  bottom; 
of  a  ftecp  and  high  mountain.  It  is  a  frnall  place, 
'.ind  is  only  remarkable  for  a  neat  palace,  which  is 
the  occafional  residence  of  the  emperor's  fons, 
and  a  fmail  fort  at  a  little  diflance  to  the  north 
of  the  town.  Its  vicinity  is  a  mixture  of  moun 
tains  and  woods,  which  gives  it  a  wild  and  truly 
romantic  appearance.  Saffi  carried  on  a  confider- 
able  commerce  with  Europe,  before  Sidi  Mahomet 
obliged  the  European  merchants  to  refide  at 
Mogodore.  It  affords  a  fafe  road  for  {hipping, 
except  when  the  wind  blows  hard  at  Weft, 
and  then  they  are  fubjecl:  to  be  driven  on  fhore. 

During  my  refidence  in  this  town,  I  took  up 
my  quarters  at  a  Jewifh  houfe,  and  was  vifited 
by  two  Moors  who  had  been  in  London,  and 
could  fpeak  a  little  of  the  Englifh  language. 
Among  other  marks  of  attention,  they  contrived 
to  procure,  unknown  to  me,  a  chair  and  a  frnall 
table; -articles  which  I  had  not  feen  fmce  I  left 
Tangier,  except  at  the  French  confuPs  houfe,  as 
the  Moors  never  make  ufe  of  either. 

At 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  5J 

At  eight  in  the  morning  of  the  fixteenth,  we  fet 
off  for  Mogodore,  a  journey  of  about  fixty  miles, 
which  we  performed  in  two  days. 

Soon  after  leaving  Saffi  we  pafFed  over  a  very 
high  and  dangerous  mountain.  The  rocky,  deep, 
and  rugged  path,  which  was  only  broad  enough 
to  allow  one  mule  to  pafs  at  a  time,  and  the  per 
pendicular  precipice  which  hung  over  the  fea,  filled 
our  minds  with  a  lenfe  of  terror  and  awe,  which  no 
pen  can  defcribe.  Our  mules,  however,  accuf- 
tomed  to  this  mode  of  travelling,  carried  us  with 
the  moil  perfect  fafety,  over  parts  where,  with 
European  hories,  we  fliould  probably  have  been 
dafhed  to  pieces. 

From  this  mountain  we  in  a  fhort  time  entered 
a  foreft  of  dwarf  oaks,  which  is  about  fix  miles 
in  length,  and  the  ibuthern  extremity  of  which 
reaches  to  the  river  Tanfif.  This  is  a  very  broad 
river,  which  after  the  heavy  rains  have  fallen,  or 
when  fwelled  by  the  tide,  is  always  pafled  upon 
rafts.  Thofe  difficulties  not  prefenting  themfelves 
to  us  now,  we  forded  the  river  with  great  eafe, 
and  on  approaching  its  ibuthern  fide,  obferved  in 
the  midil  of  a  thick  forefi  a  large  fquare  caftle, 
which  my  foldies  informed  me  was  built  by  Muley 
lihmael,  who  is  immortalized  by  the  pen  of 
Mr.  Addifon,  in  one  of  the  numbers  of  the  Free 
holder.  Sidi  Mahomet  neglected  it,  and  it  is  now 
falling  to  ruin.  The  breadth  and  windings  of  the 
Tanfif,  its  high  and  woody  banks,  and  the  caftle 
jaft  difcoverable  through  the  trees,  afforded  al 
together  a  fcene,  which  though  fomewhat  gloomy, 
yet  was  truly  romantic  and  picturefque. 

P  4  The 


56  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

The  directions  which  I  had  received  from  Mr. 
Matra  were,  to  continue  at  Mogodore,  till  the 
return  of  a  meflenger,  who  was  to  be  difpatched 
thence  to  Tarudant,  informing  the  prince  of  my 
arrival. 

The  very  hofpitable  treatment  I  experienced 
from  Mr.  Hutchifon,  Brltifh  vice-conful  at  Mogo 
dore,  during  my  ffoy  at  his  houfe,  with  the  fym- 
pafhifing  letters  and  friendly  advice  with  which  he 
afterwards  favoured  me,  whilft  under  the  many 
embarrafTments  and  inconveniencies  \vhich  I  under 
went  at  Morocco,  have  made  the  moft  forcible 
impreffion  on  my  memory;  and  I  fhould  feel  utter 
ly  difFatisfled  with  myfelf  if  I  omitted  thus  public 
ly  to  acknowledge  my  gratitude  to  that  gentleman. 

Before  I  proceed  to  delcribe  Mogodore  it  may 
not  be  improper  to  take  a  (hort  review  of  the  gene 
ral  appearance  of  the  country  through  which  I 
pa  fled  in  my  journey  from  Tangier. 

The  £rfl  part  of  the  journey,  as  far  as  Larache, 
prcfented  to  us,  as  I  before  obferved,  a  rocky, 
mountainous,  and  barren  country,  and,  if  we  ex 
cept  the  foreft  of  Rabe  a  Clow,  but  few  trees  or 
fhrubs.  From  Larache  to  Sallee  the  eye  was  a- 
greeably  relieved  by  the  variety  of  objects  which 
offered  tlemklves  to  its  view.  The  even nefs  of 
the  ground,  the  numerous  lakes,  and  the  verdure 
which  furrounded  them,  indicated  fully  the  ferti 
lity  of  the  foil ;  and  thefe,  joined  to  the  interfered 
clumps  of  trees,  would  lead  the  contemplative 
mind  to  conceive  that  nature  had  intended  this 
f'pot  for  the  refidence  of  a  more  civilized  people 
than  its  pr-efent  inhabitants.  From  Sallee  to  Mo- 
godore,  and  thence  to  Santa  Cruz3  we  again  meet 

with 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  57 

with  the  fame  barren,  mountainous,  and  rocky 
country,  which  prefented  itfelf  at  the  firft  part  of 
the  journey. 

Though  I  occafionally  met  with  forefts  of  fmall 
treeks,  fuch  as  the  arga,  the  dwarf  oak,  the  palm- 
tree,  &c.  yet  the  country  produces  no  ufefal  tim 
ber  whatever.  The  Moors  are  therefore  obliged 
to  import  that  article  from  Europe ;  and  it  may  be 
on  this  account  that  the  emperor  poffelTes  fo  few 
vefTels,  and  is  obliged  to  fend  thofe  to  be  repaired 
in  foreign  ports.  As  vegetation  does  not  take  place 
in  this  climate  till  forne  time  after  the  heavy  rains 
have  fallen,  I  had  not  an  oportunity  of  obferving  in 
this  journey  what  plants  were  peculiar  to  the  cli 
mate.  The  variety  which  difUngnifhes  the  more  im 
proved  countries  of  Europe,  and  particularly  Eng 
land,  probably  arifes  as  much  from  the  land  being 
diftributed  into  inclofures,  as  from  local  iltuatioji. 
This  advantage  the  emperor  of  Morocco  does  not 
enjoy;  fmce,  excepting  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  towns,  no  divifions  of  land  are  to  be  obferved  ; 
the  Arabs  indifcriminately  chufing  pieces  of 
ground,  without  fences,  for  the  purpofes  of  agri 
culture,  which,  as  I  before  noticed,  they  change 
as  occaiion  requires.  The  famenefs  of  fcene  which 
arifes  from  this  circumftance,  is  in  fome  degree 
leflened  by  the  numerous  fanftuaries  which  are 
diifufed  over  the  whole  country;  but  otherways 
thefe  chapels  prove  troubleibme  to  an  European 
traveller,  fmce  the  Moors,  upon  palling  them, 
always  Hop  a  connderable  time  to  pay  their  devo 
tions  to  the  remains  of  the  iaints  who  are  buried 
there.  There  is  likewife  a  cuftom  in  this  country, 
which  is  alfo  prevalent  in  Portugal,  of  confecrating- 
D  5 


58  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

the  fpot  on  which  any  perfon  has  been  murdered, 
ty  heaping  a  large  proportion  of  ft  ones  on  the 
place,  where  it  is  ufual  for  thofe  who  pafs  that 
way  to  add  another  ftone  to  the  number,  and  to 
recite  a  fhort  prayer,  adapted  to  the  occafion. 

All  the  towns   through  which  I  pafied  in  my 
way  hither,  were  furrounded  with  high  walls  of 
Tabby,  flanked  with  fqnare  forts,  generally  with 
out  any  artillery,  and  having  caftles,  which  feemed 
to  be  in  a  very  ruinous  fiate,  fituated  upon  the 
moil  eminent  fpot,  for  their  defence   or  attack. 
The  houfes,  from  having  no  windows   and  but 
very  few  doors,  had  more  the  appearance  of  dead 
walls  than  inhabited  places;  and  their  ftreets  were 
univerfally  narrow,  filthy  to  a  degree,  irregular, 
and  badly  paved.     With  all  thefe  inconveniencies, 
the  inhabitatants  enjoy    an  advantage  of  which 
many  of  the  more  civilized  capitals  of  Europe  can 
not  boaft,  I  mean  that  of  good  police.     The  ftrcets 
are  fo  well  watched  at  night,  that  robberies  or  even 
houfebreaking  are  but  feldom  heard  of;  and  the 
general  quietnefs  which  reigns  through  their  towns 
after  the  gates  are  frmt,  is  a  convincing  proof  of 
the  attention  of  their  patroles  to  their  duty.     Their 
dete&ion,    and   ipeedy   bringing  to    juftice    the 
criminals,  likewlie  defervcs  our  attention.     From 
having  no  publick  houfes  or  other  places  to  har 
bour  thieves,  and  from  no  perfon  being  permitted 
to  quit  the  country  without  leave,  it  is  utterly  im- 
poflible  for  a  culprit  to  efcape  the  hand  of  juftice, 
except  by  taking  refuge  in  a  fancluary,  by  which 
he  banifhes  himfelf  for  ever  from  fociety.     On  the 
other  hand,  the  vigilance  of  the  governors   and 
other;  officers  of  jullicc  is  fo  great,  and  conduced 

with. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  59 

\viih  fo  much  addrefs,  that  unlefs  the  means  of 
lafety  which  his  religion  points  out  are  quickly 
adopted,  the  criminal  in  a  very  fhort  time  is  de- 
tedled,  and  as  quickly  punifhed. 

According  to  the  opinion  of  fome  travellers, 
much  danger  is  to  be  apprehended  in  traverfing 
this  country,  from  the  attacks  of  wild  beads  ;  but 
it  is  only  juflicc  to  obferve,  that  during  the  whole 
of  my  progrefs  to  Mogodore,  and  indeed  I  may 
add  afterwards  in  palling  over  the  Atlas,  I  met 
with  no  obflruftion  or  moleftation  whatever  from 
thefe  animals ;  and  I  was  allb  informed,  that  a  cir- 
cumflance  of  the  kind  was  very  rarely  known  to 
iiave  happened.  The  fa6l  is,  the  wild  animals 
confine  themselves  principally  to  the  interior  parts 
of  the  country,  and  to  thofe  retreats  in  the  moun 
tains  which  are  beyond  the  track  of  men. 

Mogodore,  fo  named  by  Europeans,  and  Suera 
by  the  Moors,  is  a  large,  uniform,  and  well-built 
town,  fituated  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  Tangier,  on  the  Atlantic  ocean,  and  fur- 
rounded  on  the  land  fide  by -deep  and  heavy  fands. 
It  was  raifed  under  the  aufpices  of  Sidi  Mahomet, 
who  upon  his  accefiion  to  the  throne  ordered  all 
the  European  merchants  who  were  fettled  in  his 
dominions  to  refide  at  Mogodore,  where,  by  lower 
ing  the  duties,  he  prornlfed  to  afford  every  en 
couragement  to  commerce.  The  Europeans,  thus 
obliged  to  clefert  their  former  eftablifliments,  con- 
fi tiering  this  firft  ftepof  the  emperor  to  be  a  mark 
of  his  attachment  to  trade  and  commerce,  and 
having  rcSded  lonrr  in  the  country  without  any 
better  views  at  home,  univerfally  fettled  at  Mogo- 
dore,  where  they  erected  hpufes,  and  ether  con- 


60  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

veniencies  for  the  purpofes  of  trade.  The  hopes, 
however,  with  which  they  had  changed  their  fitua- 
tion,  were  confiderably  fruftrated  by  the  perfidy 
of  the  emperor,  who  indeed  fulfilled  his  promife, 
till  he  obferved  the  merchants  fo  fixed  as  not  to 
be  likely  to  remove;  but  he  then  began  toincreaie 
the  duties,  and  by  that  means  to  damp  the  fpirit 
of  commerce  which  he  had  promifed  to  promote. 
His  caprice,  however,  or,  what  had  ftill  more 
influence,  valuable  prefents,  induced  him  at  times 
to  relax  thefe  feventies.  In  confequence  of  this 
circumftance  the  duties  have  been  fo  frequently 
varied,  that  it  is  utterly  impofTible  for  me  to  ftate, 
with  any  degree  of  certainty,  the  ufual  burthens 
laid  upon  articles  of  commerce  in  this  port. 

The  factory  at  Mogodore  confifts  of  about  a 
dozen  mercantile  houfes  of  different  nations,  whofe 
owners,  from  the  protection  granted  them  by  the 
emperor,  live  in  full  fecurity  from  the  Moors, 
\vhom  indeed  they  keep  at  a  rigid  diftance.  They 
export  to  America,  mules.  To  Europe,  Morocco 
leather,  hides,  gum  arabic,  gum  fandarac,  oflrich 
feathers,  copper,  WPX,  wool,  elephants'  teeth,  fine 
mats,  beautiful  carpeting,  dates,  figs,  raifms,  olives, 
almonds,  oil,  &c.  In  return  they  import  timber, 
artillery  of  all  kinds,  gunpowder,  woollen  cloths, 
linens,  lead,  iron  in  bars,  all  kinds  of  hardware 
and  trinkets,  fuch  as  looking-glafles,  fnufF-boxes, 
watches,  fmall  knives,  &c.  tea,  fugar,  ipices,  and 
inoft  of  the  ufeful  articles  which  are  not  otherwife 
to  be  procured  in  this  empire. 

Befides  the  commerce  carried  on  between  this 
empire  and  Europe,  the  Moors  have  alfo  a  trade 
with  Guinea,  Algiers,  Tunis,  Tripoli,  Grand 

Cairo, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  6l 

Cairo,  and  Mecca,  by  means  of  their  caravans,  of 
which  I  foon  ihall  have  occafion  to  fpeak  more 
particularly. 

Mogodore  is  regularly  fortified  on  the  fea  fide; 
and  on  the  land,  batteries  are  fo  placed  as  to  pre 
vent  any  incurfions  from  the  Southern  Arabs, 
who  are  of  a  turbulent  difpofition,  and  who, 
from  the  great  wealth  which  is  known  to  be 
always  in  Mogodore,  would  gladly  avail  them- 
felves  of  any  opportunity  that  offered  to  pil 
lage  the  town.  The  entrance,  both  by  fea  and 
land,  confifls  of  elegant  {tone  arch-ways,  with 
double  gates.  The  market-place  is  handfomely 
built,  with  piazzas  of  the  lame  materials,  and 
at  the  water  port  there  is  a  cuflom-hotife  and  pow 
der  magazine,  both  of  which  are  neat  ftone  build 
ings.  Befide  thefe  public  edifices,  the  emperor 
has  a  fmall  but  handfome  palace  for  his  occasional 
refidence.  The  ftreets  of  the  town,  though  very 
narrow,  are  all  in  ftrait  lines,  and  the  houfes, 
contrary  to  what  we  meet  with  in  the  other  towns 
of  the  empire,  are  lofty  and  regular.  The  bay, 
which  is  little  better  than  a  road,  and  is  very 
much  expofed  when  the  wind  is  at  North- Weft, 
is  formed  by  a  curve  in  the  land,  and  a  fmall  ifland 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  fhore.  Its  en 
trance  is  defended  by  a  fort  well  mounted  with 
guns. 


CHAP. 


62  A  TGUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


-CHAP.     IV. 

General  View  of  the  Empire  of  MOROCCO. —  Situation 
and  Climate. — Provinces. — Soil. — Wonderful  Fertility. 
< — Sea  Ports. — Natural  Produflions. — Mines. — Ani 
mals. — Occajional  Famines. — Famine  in  1778. — Ma* 
ri  ufa  Ettt  res . — Bit  tidings. — R  Gads.- — Population . — Intro- 
dtiftion  of  Negroes. — MULEY  ISHMAEL — his  Policy* 
-SiDi  MAHOMET. — General  Oppreffion  of  the  People. 
—Merchants* 

A  S  I  had  a  better  opportunity  of  being  inform- 
•4;%  ed  of  the  ft  ate  of  the  country,  and  its  -pro- 
duclions,  from  the  European  merchants  at  Mogo- 
dore,  than  occurred  at  any  fubfequent  period 
during  my  tour,  I  (hail  now  avail  myfelf  of  that 
information  j  and  to  this  I  feel  myfelf  induced  by 
a  further  rriotive,  namely,  that  it  will  enable  the 
reader  to  perufe  with  more  fatis faction  and  advan 
tage  the  fucceeding  pages  of  this  Narrative. 

The  empire  of  Morocco  is  Ihuated  between  the 
spth  and  36th  degree  of  North  latitude.  It  is 
about  five  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in  length  from 
North  to  South,  and  about  two  hundred  in  breadth. 
It  is  bounded  to  the  North  by  the  Straits  of  Gibral 
tar  and  the  Mediterranean  fea;  to  the  Eaft,  by  the 
kingdoms  of  Tremecen  and  SugulmufTa ;  to  the 
South,  by  the  river  Suz,  and  the  country  to  the 
South  of  Tafilet;  and  to  the  Weft,  by  the  Atlantic 
ocean.  The  empire  is  formed  of  feveral  provinces 
and  nominal  kingdoms,  which,  as  in  moft  coun 
tries,  before  their  union  were  diftincl:  and  petty 
fovereisnties. 

The 


A  TOUR  TO  MOF.OCCO,  &C.  63 

The  climate,  though  in  the  Southern  pro 
vinces  very  hot  in  the  months  of  June,  July,  and 
Auguft,  yet  is  in  general  friendly  to  the  conftitu- 
tions  of  its  inhabitants, 'as  well  as  to  thofe  of 
Europeans.  To  the  North  the  climate  is  nearly 
the  lame  as  that  of  Spain  and  Portugal,  with  the 
autumnal  and  vernal  rains  peculiar  to  to  thofe 
countries ;  but  to  the  Southward,  the  rains  are 
lefs  general  and  certain,  and  of  courfe  the  heat 
is  more  exceffive. 

Moil  of  the  towns  which  Europeans  are  allowed 
to  enter,  being  fea-ports,  have  the  advantage  of 
being  frequently  refrefhed  with  fea  breezes;  and 
Mogodore,  though  fo  far  to  the  Southward,  from 
being  fubjeft  in  the  fummer  feafon  to  have  the 
\vind  regularly  at  North  Weft,  is  quite  as  cool  as 
the  more  temperate  climates  of  Europe.  Morocco 
and  Tarudant  are  inland,  and  therefore,  though 
nearly  in  the  fame  degree  of  Latitude  as  Mogodore, 
are  much  hotter;  their  great  heats,  however, 
are  confiderably  leflened  by  their  vicinity  to  the 
Atlas,  the  higher  .parts  of  which  are  the  whole 
year  covered  with  mow,  and  often  favour  them 
with  cool  and  rcf re  filing  breezes. 

The  foil  of  the  empire  of  Morocco  is  naturally 
very  fertile,  and  with  proper  cultivation  and  at 
tention  is  capable  of  producing  all  the  luxuries  of 
the  Eaftern  and  Weftern  worlds.  It  mult,  how 
ever,  be  confeiTed,  that  on  fume  parts  of  the  fea- 
coaft,  particularly  where  it  is  mountainous,  like 
every  other  country  under  fimilar  circurnftances, 
the  ibil  is  fandy  and  barren ;  but  wherever  there, 
is  the  lead  appearance  of  a  plain,  fuch  as  that 
between  Larache  and  Mamora,  and  in  the  neigh 
bourhood 


64  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

bourhood  of  Morocco  and  Tarudant,  the  foil  Is 
black  and  rich.  Indeed  I  am  informed  from  the 
beft  authority,  that  at  Tafilet,  and  throughout 
moft  of  the  interior  parts  of  the  empire,  its  fer 
tility  is  beyond  imagination. 

From  the  flight  cultivation  it  at  prefent  receives, 
which  is  merely  the  burning  of  the  ftubble  before 
the  autumnal  rains  come  on,  and  ploughing  it  about 
fix  inches  deep,  the  earth  produces,  at  a  very 
early  feafon,  excellent  wheat  and  barley  (though 
no  oats)  Indian  corn,  alderoy,  beans,  peafe,  hemp, 
and  flax  5  oranges,  lemons,  citrons,  pomegranates, 
melons,  water-melons,  olives,  figs,  almonds, 
grapes,  dates,  apples,  pears,  cherries,  plumbs, 
and  in  faft  all  the  fruits  to  be  found  in  the  South 
ern  provinces  of  Spain  and  Portugal.  The  people 
here  preferve  their  grain  in  Matamores,  holes  made 
in  the  earth,  lined  and  covered  with  flraw,  on 
which  earth  is  placed  in  a  pyramidal  form,  to  pre 
vent  the  rain  from  foaking  in.  In  thefe  {tores  corn 
has  been  kept  five  or  fix  years,  without  under 
going  any  very  material  change. 

As  little  encouragement,  however,  is  extended 
to  induftry  in  this  country,  many  of  their  fruits 
which  require  attention,  particularly  their  grapes, 
apples,  pears,  plumbs,  &c.  do  not  arrive  at  that 
perfection  to  which  they  are  brought  in  Europe. 
Could,  indeed,  a  proper  fpirit  for  agriculture  and 
foreign  commerce  be  introduced  in  the  country, 
or,  in  other  words,  could  the  fovereign  be  per- 
fuaded,  that  by  fuffering  his  fubjefts  to  be  enriched 
he  would  improve  his  own  treafury,  this  empire, 
from  its  convenient  fituation  with  refpeft  to  Eu 
rope,  and  from  the  natural  luxuriance  and  fertility 

Cjf 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  6$ 

of  its  foil,  might  become  of  the  higheft  political 
and  commercial  importance.  The  only  material 
impediment  to  commerce  is  the  inconvenience  and 
inlecurity  of  the  ports.  I  am  well  informed,  how 
ever,  that  at  Valedia  there  is  a  bafon  formed  by 
nature,  capable  of  containing  with  fafety  any 
number  of  {hipping;  and  the  other  ports  might 
mod  probably  be  improved. 

It  is  melancholy,  in  traverfing  the  immenfe 
tradl  of  ib  fine  a  country,  to  obferve  fo  much  land 
lying  wafte  and  uncultivated,  which  by  a  very 
little  attention  would  be  capable  of  producing  an 
inexhauftible  treafure  to  its  inhabitants.  From 
this  reprefentation  it  would  fcarcely  be  iuppofed 
credible,  that  Spain,  which  is  alfo  a  fine  country, 
and  a  civilized  nation  fhouid  be  obliged  to  remit 
to  the  emperor,  very  large  prefents  of  money, 
to  induce  him  to  allow  his  iubjefts  to  export  corn, 
as  well  as  moil  other  kinds  of  provifions  and 
fruits,  from  Tangier  and  Tetuan.  Indeed  the 
Southern  provinces  of  Spain  can  hardly  exifi 
without  this  iupply.  To  what  are  we  to  attribute 
this,  circumftance  ?  Is  it  that  Morocco  is  fo  much 
more  fertile  than  Spain,  that  it  proclucees  a  re 
dundance  with  fcarcely  any  cultivation ;  or  is  the 
indolence  of  the  Spaniards  fnperior  to  that  of  the 
Moors  themfelves  ? 

The  Jews  in  molt  of  the  towns  of  the  empire 
make  wine ;  but,  either  owing  to  the  grapes  not 
being  in  fuch  perfection  as  thofe  of  Europe,  or  to 
an  improper  mode  of  preparing  it,  its  flavour 
proves  but  very  indifferent.  They  alfo  diftil  a 
ipecies  of  brandy  from  figs  and  raifms,  well 
known  in  that  country  by  the  name  of  aquadent. 

Thfo 


>   66  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

This  liquor  has  a  difagreeable  tafte,  but  in  point 
of  ftrength  is  little  inferior  to  fpirits  of  wine.  It 
is  drank  without  dilution  very  freely  by  the  Tews 
on  all  their  feafts  or  days  of  rejoicing,  and  there 
are  very  few  of  the  Moors  who  are  difpofed  to 
forego  any  private  opportunity  of  taking  their 
{hare  of  it  alfo. 

The  Moors  cultivate  tobacco  -,  there  is  a  fpecies 
of*  it  near  Mequinez,  which  affords  fiuifF,  the 
flavour  of  which  is  very  little  inferior  to  Maccaba. 
In  rny  progreis  through  the  country  I  have  no 
ticed  forefls  of  oak  trees  of  a  dwarf  kind,  which 
bear  acorns  of  a  remark-able  frze  and  fweet  taRe. 
To  the  Southward  we  meet  with  the  palm  or  date 
tiee,  the  arga,  bearing  a  nut  of  the  almond  fpecies, 
with  the  olive,  from  both  of  which  the  inhabitants 
extract  great  quantities  of  oil,  which  conilitutes 
a  conficlerable  part  of  their  exports  to  foreign 
countries.  There  is  aifo  an  infinite  variety  of 
fhrubs  and  plants,  fuch  as  the  prickly  pear,  the 
aloe,  &c.  ail  in  fhort  that  are  to  be  found  in  Spain 
and  Portugal.  Cotton,  wax,  honey,  fait,  tran- 
fparent  gnm,  and  gum  fandarac,  are  all  pro- 
duftions  of  this  empire. 

In  the  mountains  of  Atlas  there  are  numerous 
iron  miaes  ;  but  as  the  Moors  do  not  under  (land 
the  mode  of  working  iron,  thole  mines  prove  of 
no  ufe  to  them,  and  they  are  therefore  obliged  to 
procure  that  article  from  Europe.  The  neigh 
bourhood  of  Tarudant  produces  mines  of  copper  ; 
and  the  Moors  aflert,  that  in  the  Atlas  there  are  al- 
fo  fome  of  gold  and  filver,  which  the  emperor  will 
not  allow  to  be  touched.  But  I  am  inclined  to 
imagine  that  if  the  aflfertiori  had  any  foundation  in 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  6j 

truth,  the  Brtbes,  who  inhabit  thefe  mountains, 
and  who  are  mere  nominal  fubjecls,  and  pay  but 
little  refpecl  to  the  government  of  Morocco, 
would  long  before  this  time  have  difcovered 
them.  It  is,  however,  probable  that  this  vaft  chain 
of  mountains  may  contain  productions  which 
might  be  converted  to  very  valuable  purpofes  ; 
but,  owing  to  a  want  of  emulation  on  the  part 
of  the  inhabitants,  and  Europeans  not  being 'al 
lowed  to  attempt  any  new  difcoveries,  a  know 
ledge  of  them  is  not  to  be  attained. 

The  domeilic  animals  of  Morocco  are  much 
the  fame  as  thofe  of  Europe,  excepting  the  camel, 
which  is  the  moft  ufeful  animal  in  this  quarter  of 
the  globe,  both  on  account  of  the  great  fatigue 
which  it  is  capable  of  undergoing,  and  the  little 
fubfiflance  it  requires.  Camels  are  employed  here 
for  all  the  purpofes  of  agriculture  and  commerce, 
and  are  very  numerous.  It  has  been  afferted  that 
dromedaries  are  indigenous  to  this  country  ;  but 
in  the  courfe  of  my  whole  tour  I  could  hear  of 
none,  except  thofe  which  are  in  the  poileilion  of 
the  emperor ;  and  he,  as  I  difcovered,  procures 
them  from  the  coafl  of  Guinea.  Thefe  are  the 
fleeteffl  animals  for  travelling  that  are  known,  and 
nre  only  uied  by  the  emperor  on  urgent  occasions. 
I  was  informed  that  their  pace  is  fometim£s  fo  ex 
ceedingly  fwift,  that  their  riders  are  obliged  to  tie 
a  fafh  round  their  waifls  to  preferve  the  power  of 
refpiration,  and  cover  the  whole  of  the  face  ex 
cept  the  eyes,  to  prevent  their  fuffering  from  the 
flrong  current  of  air  occafioned  by  the  rapid 
motion  of  the  animal.  It  is  computed  that,  in  aa 

ordinary 


68  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

ordinary  way,  a  dromedary  will  perform  a  jour 
ney  of  five  hundred  miles  in  four  day?. 

The  oxen  and  fheep  of  this  country  are  frnall ; 
but  their  flefh  is  well  flavoured.  The  hides  of 
the  former,  and  the  wool  of  the  latter,  are  both 
articles  of  exportation.  The  fheep  with  large 
tails,  diftinguiihed  in  England  by  the  name  of 
Barbary  ihcep,  are  here  very  fcarce,  and  are  more 
indigenous  to  the  Eaftern  parts  of  Barbary.  The 
horfes,  for  want  of  attention  in  keeping  up  the 
breed,  are  much  lefs  valuable  than  they  formerly 
were  •,  there  are  (till  however  fome  few  that  are 
good  in  the  country,  and  thofe  are  generally 
ftrong,  and  have  great  fpirit.  The  mules  are 
numerous  and  ufeful,  though  I  do  not  think  them 
equal  to  thofe  of  Spain,  either  in  fize  or  beauty,  . 

Fowls  and  pigeons  are  remarkably  plentiful 
and  good  in  the  empire  of  Morocco ;  but  ducks 
are  fcarce,  and  geefe  and  tu ikies  I  never  law 
there.  The  country  abounds  with  the  red-legged 
partridge.  In  the  proper  feafon  the  frankolin,  a 
bird  of  the  partridge  fpecies,of  a  delicious  flavour, 
and  beautiful  pumage,  is  found  here  -5  alfo  a  few 
v/oodcocks,  fnipes  in  great  numbers,  all  kinds  of 
water-fowl,  and  a  variety  of  fmall  finglng-birds. 
Storks  are  are  very  plentiful,  and  as  they  are 
never  molefled  by  the  Moors,  who  are  taught  to 
believe  it  fmful  to  defrroy  them,  they  become 
quite  domeftic  and  tame.  They  are  generally  to 
be  feen  feeding  among  ruinous  walls  and  caftles, 
where  they  pick  up  infefts  and  fnakes.  Hares, 
rabbits,  antelopes,  porcupines,  apes,  foxes,  wild 
&c,  are  all  natives  of  this  empire. 

Among 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO;,  &C.  6$ 

Among  the  ferocious  animals  may  be  enumer 
ated  wolves  and  wild  boars,  which  are  fpread 
over  the  whole  empire  •,  and  in  the  fouthern  pro 
vinces,  there  are  lions,  tygers,  and  monftrous 
ierpents. 

During  my  refidence  in  the  country,  I  had 
frequent  opportunities  of  examining  that  inoft 
Singular  of  the  animal  productions,  the  cameleon. 
Though  it  is  hardly  neceflary  to  adduce  any  proof 
to  the  philoibphers  of  the  prefent  day  again!!:  the 
vulgar  error  that  it  feeds  only  upon  air,  yet  it 
may  afford  fome  fatisfa6iion  to  my  readers  to  be 
told  that  I  had  an  opportunity  of  feeing  a  com 
plete  refutation  of  this  opinion  at  Mogodore.  A 
gentleman  of  my  acquaintance  there  had  in  his 
poffdfion,  a  cameleon,  the  dexterity  of  which  in 
procuring  its  food  I  had  ample  means  of  obferv- 
ing.  The  fact  is,  its  principal  fupport  is  flies, 
which  it  catches  by  darting  at  them  an  exceed 
ingly  long  tongue  covered  with  a  matter  fo  very 
glutinous,  that  if  it  but  touches  an  infect  it  is 
impoffible  for  it  to  efcape.  The  moft  fingular 
part  of  its  conformation  however,  (if,  perhaps, 
we  except  the  power  of  varying  its  colours)  is 
the  eye,  the  mufcles  of  which  are  fo  conflruclcd 
that  it  can  move  the  ball  quite  round  ;  and  I 
believe  it  exiits  the  only  known  inftance  in  all 
animated  nature  of  a  creature  which  is  able  to 
direct  its  vifion  to  two 'different  objects  at  the 
fame  time,  however  thofe  objects  may  be  fituated. 
Except  in  the  act  of  darting  out  its  tongue  to  pro 
cure  fubfiftence,  its  motions  are  remarkably  flow. 

Although  it  mud  be  allowed  that  the  climate 
of  Morocco  is  delightful  to  a  degree,  yet  it  is 

occafiori- 


70  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C* 

occafionally  fubje£t  to  great  droughts,  which  na 
turally  produce  "unmenle  fwarms  of  locufts,  the 
moil  deilruflive  enemy  to  vegetation  that  exifts. 
In  the  year  1778  thefe  infects  came  in  fuch  num 
bers  from  the  South,  that  they  perfectly  darkened 
the  air,  and,  by  deftroying  all  the  corn,  produced 
a  general  famine.  This  calamity  was  increafed 
to  fuch  a  degree  in  the  year  1780,  that  leverai 
unfortunate  perfons  aftually  died  in  the  ftreets  for 
-want  of  food ;  many  were  driven  to  the  neceffity 
of  digging  in  the  earth  for  roots  to  {up ply  the  ur 
gent  calls  of  nature-,  while  others  were  happy  to  find 
fome  undigested  corn  in  the  dung  of  animals,  which 
they  rnoft  eagerly  devoured.  Upon  this  occaiion 
of  public  diftrefs  the  emperor  generoufly  opened 
his  {lore  of  corn,  and  distributed  it,  as  well  as 
money,  among  his  iubjefts  •,  and  every  perfun 
"who  was  known  to  poflefs  Stores  was  obliged  to 
follow  his  example.  Thefe  melancholy  fafts  are 
fo  recent  in  the  memory  of  the  people,  that  they 
full  repeat  them  to  the  Europeans  who  vifit  the 
country. 

The  manufactures  of  the  empire  are  the  haick, 
which,  as  was  before  obferved,  is  a  long  garment 
compofed  of  white  wool  and  cotton,  or  cotton 
and  filk  woven  together,  and  is  nfed  by  the  Moors 
for  the  purpoie  of  covering  their  under  drefs 
when  they  go  abroad,  which  they  do  by  totally 
wrapping  thcmfeives  in  it  in  a  carelefs  but  eafy 
manner  ;  filk  handkerchiefs  of  a  particular  kind, 
prepared  only  at  Fez  •,  filks  checquered  with  cot 
ton  ;  carpeting  little  inferior  to  that  of  Turkey ; 
beautiful  matting,  made  of  the  palmetto  or  wild 
palm  tree  •,  paper  of  a  coarie  kind  ;  Cordovan, 

commonly 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C.  7  I 

commonly  called  Morocco  leather ;  gan-pcwder 
of  an  inferior  nature  5  and  long  barrelled  muf- 
quets,  made  of  Bifcay  iron.  The  Moors  are  un 
acquainted  \viih  the  mode  of  calling  cannon,  and 
therefore  thofe  few  which  are  now  in  the  country 
are  prefents  from  Europeans*  The  manufacture 
of  glafs  is  likewife  unknown  to  them  ;  as  indeed 
they  make  great  life  of  earthen  ware,  and  have 
few  or  no  windows  to  their  houfcs,  this  commo 
dity  may  be  of  leis  importance  to  them  than  many 
others.  They  make  butter,  by  putting  the  milk 
into  a  goat-fkin  with  its  outward  coat  turned  in 
wards,  and  {baking  it  till  the  butter  collects  on 
the  fides,  when  it  is  taken  out  for  nfe.  From 
this  operation  it  proves  always  full  of  hairs, 
and  has  an  infipid  flavour.  Their  cheefe  confifls 
merely  of  curds  hardened  and  dried,  and  has 
uniformly  a  difagreeable  tafte.  The  bread  in  fome 
of  the  principal  towns  particularly  at  Tangier  and 
Sallee,  is  remarkably  good,  but  in  many  other 
places,  it  is  coarfe,  black,  and  heavy. 

Their  markets  are  under  more  fr.ri6r,  regulations 
than  might  be  expected  from  a  people  who  are 
ib  deficient  in  mod  other  hiftances.  A  proper  of 
ficer,  entitled  Almotaibn,  or  Mayor,  is  appointed 
to  infpedr,  all  kinds  of  provifions  and  corn,  and, 
according  to  their  plenty  or  fcarcity,  to  fix  the 
price  on  each  article :  it  is  alfo  the  duty  of  this 
officer  to  attend  conftantly  the  markets,  and  to 
fee  that  no  per  ion  is  guilty  of  overcharging  what 
he  fells,  for  which,  upon  detection,  the  offender 
is  punifhed,  by  having  his  hands  tied  behind  him, 
and  being  publicly  flogged  through  all  the  flreets, 
the  executioner  occaiionally  exclaiming,  "  Thus 
4  do 


•52  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

do  we  treat  thofe  who  impofe  upon  the  poor." 
Provifions  both  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  kind 
are  fold  by  the  Rtab,  or  large  pound,  confifting 
of  the  weight  of  twenty  hard  dollars,  or  Spanifh 
ounces  ;  corn,  by  the  Almood,  four  of  which  are 
equal  to 'a  Faneg  Spanifh,  or  fack;  and  articles 
of  merchandize,  by  the  fmall  pound  of  fixteen 
Spaniili  ounces,  when  fold  by  weight ,  and  by 
the  Code,  which  is  about  two  thirds  of  an  En- 
glifti  yard,  when  by  meafurement. 

The  Moors,  agreeably  to  the  Jewifh  cuflom, 
cut  the  throats  of  all  the  animals  they  eat,  at  the 
lame  time  turning  their  heads  towards  Mecca,  in 
adoration  of  their  prophet.  After  fufFering  them 
to  bleed  freely,  they  carefully  warn  all  the  remain 
ing  blood  away,  and  divide  the  meat  into  final! 
pieces  of  about  one  or  two  pounds  in  weight. 
As  they  are  unacquainted  with  the  invention  of 
pumps,  and  have  but  few  fprings,  it  affords  em 
ployment  to  a  number  of  indigent  people,  who 
would  probably  be  idle  otherwiie,  to  carry  water 
in  fldns  from  the  nearefl  river  or  refervoir,  and 
fell  it  to  the  inhabitants.  From  their  b§ing  obliged 
to  tar  the  {kins  to  prevent  them  from  leaking,  the 
water  is  frequently  rendered  very  unpleafant. 

Their  looms,  forges,  ploughs,  carpenter's  tools, 
8cc.  are  much  upon  the  lame  conftruftjon  with 
the  unimproved  inftruments  of  the  fame  .  kind 
-which  are  ufed  at  this  time  in  fome  parts  of 
Europe,  only  ftill  more  clumfily  finiihed.  In 
their  work  they  attend  more  to  Jftrength  than  neat- 
nefs  or  convenience,  and,  like  all  other  ignorant 
people  they  have  no  idea  that  what  they  do  is 
capable  of  improvement.  It  is  probable,  indeed, 

that 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  73 

that  the  Moors  have  undergone  no  very  material 
change  fince  the  revolution  in  their  arts  and  fci- 
ences  which  took  place  foon  after  their  expulfion 
from  Spain.  Previous  to  that  period  it  is  well 
known  they  were  an  enlightened  people,  at  a  time 
when  the  greater  part  of  Europe  was  involved  in 
ignorance  and  barbarifin ;  but  owing  to  the  weak- 
neis  and  tyranny  of  their  princes,  they  gradually 
funk  into  the  very  oppofite  extreme',  and  may 
-now  be  confidered  as  but  a  few  degrees  removed 
from  a  favage  ftate. 

They  ufe  no  kind  of  wheel-carriage,  and  there* 
fore  all  their  articles  of  burden  are  tranfported 
from  one  place  to  another  on  camels,  mules,  or 
afTes.  Their  buildings  though  by  no  means  con- 
flrudled  on  any  fixed  principle  of  architecture, 
have  at  leaft  the  merit  of  being  very  flrong  and 
durable.  The  manner  of  preparing  tabby,  of 
which  all  their  beft  edifices  are  formed,  is,  I  be 
lieve,  the  only  remains  of  their  ancient  knowledge 
at  prefent  exifling.  It  con  fids  of  a  mixture  ©f 
mortar  and- very  fmall  ftones,  beaten  tight  in  a 
wooden  cafe,  and  then  fuffered  to  dry,  when  it 
forms  a  cement  equal  to  the  folid  rock.  There 
are  always  unaccountable  difcrep  ancles  and  incon- 
fiftencies  in  the  arts  of  uncivilized  nations.  The 
apartments  are  if  poffible  even  more  inconvenient 
than  thofe  of  their  neighbours  the  Spaniards  ;  but 
the  carved  wood-work  with  which  many  of  them 
are  ornamented  is  really  equal  to  any  I  have  ever 
ieen  in  Europe. 

The  Moors  have  no  idea  of  making  high  roads, 

or  repairing  thole  which  have  been  formed  by  the 

ancient  polFefTors  of  the  country,  or  perhaps  by 

E  the 


74  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

the  mere  refort  of  paffengers,  but  are  content  to 
leave  them  in  the  fame  flate  in  which  they  found 
them.  Indeed,  they  are  even  incapable  of  com 
prehending  the  fimple  fact — that  by  improving 
the  roads  travelling  would  become  more  expedi 
tious,  and  lefs  expenllve. 

If  we  look  for  -my  of  the  elegant  appendages 
of  luxury  and  refinement  in  this  country,  we  fhall 
be  grievoufly  difappointed.  Their  gardens  are 
mere  tracts  of  incloied  ground,  over-run  with 
weeds,  interfperfed  with  vines,  figs,  oranges,  and 
lemons,  without  tafte  or  diipofition,  and  having 
perhaps  one  ftrait  walk  through  the  whole.  They 
fometimes  low  corn  in  the  intermediate  ground ; 
but  their  gardens  are  rarely  productive  of  efcu- 
3ent  vegetables,  and  feldom  or  never  ornamented 
with  flowers. 

As  there  are  few  or  no  bridges  in  the  country, 
I  am  inclined  to  believe  the  Moors  are  not  tho 
roughly  acquainted  with  the  mode  of  conflhifting 
large  arches  •,  and  it  is  only  at  their  fea-ports 
xvhere  they  even  w(e  boats.  Theie  circumflances, 
united  to  the  bad  roads,  render  this  part  of  Bar- 
bary  very  inconvenient  and  dangerous  to  be  tra 
velled  through. 

The  country  throughout  is  ill-watered.  Moft 
of  the  rivers,  which,  however,  are  very  few  in 
proportion  to  the  extent  of  ground,  except  jufr. 
at  their  fea-ports,  deferve  only  the  name  of  rivu 
lets,  and  in  the  fummer  feafon  are  many  of  them 
dried  up.  From  all  thefe  circumflances  it  may  be 
conjectured  that  the  population  is  not  extraordi 
nary.  When  on  my  return,  in  my  journey  from 
Morocco  to  Sallee,  which  required  feven  days  to 

accom- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  75 

accomplish,  I  met  with  no  habitations  but  a  few 
Arab  tents  fcattered  in  different  parts  ;  and  I  had 
reafon  to  believe  that  a  great  part  of  the  interior 
country  is  nearly  in  a  fimilar  fituation.  The  towns 
are  very  few  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  coun 
try,  and  thofe  are  but  thinly  inhabited,  Indeed 
Morocco,  which  is  a  metropolis,  has  many  of  its 
houles  in  ruins  and  uninhabited. 

The  want  of  population  in  the  empire  of  Mo 
rocco,  at  this  period  may  have  been  occafioned, 
in  fome  degree  by  the  enormous  cruelties  exer- 
cifed  by  its  former  fovereigns,  who  have  been 
known,  hot  unfrequently,  through  a  flight  dif- 
gufl  to  abandon  a  whole  town  or  province  to  the 
(word.  In  the  character  of  Muley  Ifnmael,  grand 
father  to  Sidi  Mahomet,  we  find  .the  moft  fingu- 
lar  inconiiftencies ;  for  it  is  certain,  that  although 
a  tyrant  of  the  clafs  which  I  have  been  defcribing, 
yet  in  other  refpecls,  as  if  to  repair  the  mifchief 
which  he  committed,  he  left  nothing  undone  for 
the  encouragement  of  population.  He  introduced 
large  colonies  of  Negroes  from  Guinea,  built 
towns  for  them,  many  of  which  are  ftill  remain 
ing,  ailigned  them  portions  of  land,  and  encou 
raged  their  encreafe  by  every  pofTible  means.  He 
fbon  initiated  them  in  the  Mahometan  faith,  and, 
had  his  plan  been  followed,  the  country  by  this 
time  would  have  been  populous,  and  probably 
flourimmg.  As  the  Negroes  are  of  a  more 
lively,  aftivej  and  enter  prizing  difpofition  than 
the  Moors,  they  might  foon  have  been  taught 
the  arts  of  agriculture,  and  their  fmgular  inge 
nuity  might  have  been  direfted  to  other  ufeful 
purpofes. 

E  2  It 


76  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

It  is  true  Muley  Ifhmael,  when  he  adopted  this 
plan,  had  more  objefts  in  view  than  that  of  mere 
ly  peopling  his  dominions :  he  faw  plainly  that 
his  own  fubjefts  were  of  too  capricious  a  difpo- 
fition  to  f orra  Jbldiers  calculated  for  his  tyranni 
cal  purpofes.  They  had  uniformly  manifefted 
an  inclination  to  change  their  fovereigns,  though 
more  from  the  love  of  variety  than  to  reform 
the  government,  or  reflrain  the  abufes  of  tyran 
ny.  In  iliort,  whatever  revolutions  took  place 
in  the  country  confifred  merely  in  a  change  of 
one  tyrant  for  another.  Muley  Ifhmael  had 
tiifcernment  enough  to  fee,  therefore,  that  by 
forming  an  army  of  flaves  whofe  fole  depend 
ence  fhould  reft  upon  their  mafter,  he  could 
eafily  train  them  in  iiich  a  manner  as  to  aft 
in  the  ftrifteft  conformity  to  his  wifhes.  He 
foon  learnt  that  the  great  objeft  with  the  Ne 
groes  was  plenty  of  money,  and  liberty  of  plun 
der  >  in  thefe  he  liberally  indulged  them,  and  the 
plan  fully  anfwered  his  expectations. 

Though,  however,  Muley  Ifhmael  had  no  great 
merit  in  introducing  fubjefts  for  the  purpofes  of 
tyranny,  yet  the  good  efFefts  of  this  new  coloniza 
tion  were  very  generally  experienced.  By  inter 
marrying  among  themfelves,  and  intermixing 
among  the  Moors  (for  the  Moors  will  keep  Ne 
gro  women  as  concubines,  though  they  feldom 
marry  them)  a  new  race  of  people  ftarted  up,  who 
became  as  ufeful  fubjefts  as  the  native  inhabitants, 
and  brought  the  empire  into  a  much  more  fiourifh- 
ing  ftate  than  it  had  ever  been  in  fince  their  great 
revolution. 

Sidi 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  7^ 

Sidi  Mahomet  had  different  views,  and  was 
actuated  by  different  motives.  From  his  inordinate 
avarice,  he  ceafed  to  a£t  towards  his  black  troops 
in  the  generous  manner  which  had  diftinguiftied 
his  predecefTor  Muley  Ifhmael;  and  they  foon 
.(hewed  themfelves  difcontented  with  his  conduct. 
They  frequently  threatened  to  revolt,  and  fupport 
thole  of  his  fons  who  were  in  oppofition,  and  who 
promifed  them  the  moft  liberal  rewards.  They 
offered  to  place  his  eldeft  ion  Muley  AH,  who  is 
fmce  dead,  on  the  throne;  but  this  prince,  not 
unmindful  of  the  duty  which  he  owed  his  father 
and  fovereign,  declined  their  offer.  They  next 
applied  to  Muley  Yazid,  the  late  emperor,  who 
at  firft  accepted  of  the  affiflance  they  tendered, 
but  in  a  fhort  time  relinquiflied  the  plan. 

Sidi  Mahomet,  difgufled  with  this  conduft  of 
the  Negroes,  determined  to  curb  their  growing 
power,  by  difbanding  a  confiderable  part  of  thefe 
troops,  and  banifhing  them  to  diflant  parts  of  the 
empire.  This  important  mode  of  population  has 
therefore  been  of  late  years  neglefted,  while  no 
better  fyftem  has  been fubftituted  in  its  room;  for 
though  the  late  emperor  indulged  in  cruelty  much 
lefs  frequently  than  his  predeceffors,  yet  popula 
tion  has,  perhaps,  been  more  completely  impeded 
by  the  general  poverty  which  he  has  introduced 
into  the  country  by  his  fevere  exactions,  than  if 
he  had  made  a  liberal  ufe  of  the  fword  or  of  the 
bow-ftring.  To  acquaint  Sidi  Mahomet  that  any 
of  his  fubjefts  were  rich,  was  equivalent  to  telling 
him  that  he  had  fo  many  ambitious  .-opponents, 
who  by  their  wealth  would  fupport  his  fons  in 
rebellion,  which  it  was  neceflary  to  prevent,  by 
depriving  them  of  thofe  riches. 

E  3  The 


78  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

The  only  maxim  of  government  therefore  a- 
dopted  by  this  monarch  was  to  keep  his  iubjecls 
as  nearly  as  poffible  upon  a  level;  that  is,  in  a  flate 
of  poverty.  This  he  mofl  effectually  accomplifh- 
cd.  No  man  who  had  property  one  day  could 
with  certainty  call  it  his  own  the  next.  The  mod 
devoted  mifers,  with  their  utmofl  ingenuity,  were 
unable  to  evade  the  difcovery  of  their  treafure.  If 
the  victim  of  tyranny  manifefted  any  reluctance 
to  reveal  to  his  inquifitors  the  facred  depofnory 
of  his  hoarded  wealth,  the  emperor  feldom  hefita- 
ted  about  the  means  of  compulfion.  The  forti 
tude  of  feveral  enabled  them  to  refifl  every  tor 
ture  fhort  of  death",  but  the  love  of  life  was  al 
ways  found  to  prevail  over  even  avarice  itfelf. 

But  this  perhaps  was  not  the  worfl ;  the  heavy 
taxes  and  duties  impofed  by  this  impolitic  monarch 
impeded  commerce,  and  difcouraged  manufac 
tures;  and  on  the  whole  I  am  inclined  to  believe 
that  the  country  was  never  in  a  greater  ftate  of 
poverty  than  during  his  reign. 

Power  and  weaknefs,  rank  and  meannefs,  opu 
lence  and  indigence,  are  here  equally  dependent, 
equally  uncertain.  There  are  inftances  of  the  ful- 
tan  elevating  at  once  a  common  foldier  to  the  rank 
of  a  bafhaw,  or  making  him  a  confidential  friend; 
the  following  day  he  would  perhaps  imprifon  him, 
or  reduce  him  again  to  the  fbition  of  a  private 
foldier.  It  is  furprifing  that  men  under  thefe  cir- 
cumflances  fhould  be  ambitious  of  rank,  or  dtii- 
rous  of  riches  and  power.  Yet  fiich  is  the  dif- 
pofition  of  thefe  people,  that  they  have  an  un 
bounded  thirft  for  rank  and  power  with  all  their 
uncertainties;  and,  what  is  more  extraordinary, 
when  they  have  obtained  a  high  flation  they  fei- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  79 

dom  fail  to  afford  their  fovereign  a  plea  for  ill- 
treating  them,  by  abufmg,  in  fome  wa*y  or  other, 
their  truft. 

The  oaly  independent  people  in  the  country, 
if  it  be  at  all  lawful  to  make  ufe  of  the  expreilion 
when  fpeaking  of  Morocco,  are  to  be  found  among 
the  merchants  who  refide  in  towns  at  fome  diftance 
from  the  feat  of  government.  The  neatnefs  of 
their  houfes  and  gardens,  the  furniture  of  their 
apartments,  their  rich  difplay  of  china  and  glafs, 
and  their  liberal  treatment  of  ftrangers,  their  bet 
ter  education,  and  more  enlightened  ideas,  all 
ferve  to  point  them  out  as  a  clais  of  beings  diffe 
rent  from  the  reft. 

I  wifh  this  defcription  would  apply  generally 
to  all  the  people  in  trade;  but  I  am  forry  to  add 
it  does  not:  it  is  confined  to  a  particular  clafs  of 
merchants,  who  tranfaft  bufmefs  upon  a  very 
large  fcale.  Even  thefe,  however,  though  diftant 
from  the  feat  of  government,  befides,  rigoroufly 
paying  their  quota  of  every  fevere  tax  which  the 
emperor  chufes  to  impofe  upon  them, are  not  always. 
exempt  from  plunder.  If  the  bafhaw  or  Alcaide 
of  the  town  can  difcover  a  plea  for  imprilbning 
them,  which  he  fometimes  does  without  much 
regard  to  juftice,  he  feldom  fails  to  turn  it  to  his 
own  advantage;  and  not  unfrequently  difgraces 
his  matter's  royal  name,  by  ufing  it  as  a  pretext 
for  feizing  their  property. — Thus  the  empire  of 
Morocco,  in  all  its  parts,  prefents  a  ftriking  picture 
of  the  wretched  policy  and  miferable  confequeaces 
of  defpotic  government. 


E  4  CHAP. 


So  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


CHAP.    V. 

Journey  from  Mo  GO  DO  RE  to  SANTA  CRUZ. — Some  Ac 
count  of  the  Origin  of  that  Place. — Arrival  at  TAR.U- 
DANT. —  Introduction  to  the  Prince. — Defeription  of 
his  Palaces'—Singular  Rceeption.—Acfommodatiom.— 
State  of  the  Prince's  Health. — Alfurd  Prejudices  of  the 
Moors. — Altercation  with  the  Prince. — Application 
from  other  Patients. — The  Cadi. — Introduction  into  ihs 

Prince^  Harem. — Wives  of  the  Prince State  of  the 

Female  Sex  in  this  Secluded  Situation. — F"i/ible  amend 
ment  in  the  Prince's  Comp  'aint< — His  Affability. — C/ja- 
r after  cf  the  Prince  MULEyAssULEM. 

T  Had  notrefted  from  the  fatigues  of  my  journey 
•*•  above  fix  days  at  Mogodore,  before  a  new 
fcene  was  opened,  by  the  return  of  the  meffenger 
from  Tarudant,  with  orders  for  my  immediate 
attendance  on  my  royal  patient.  In  addition  to 
my  former  party,  I  was  allowed  by  the  governor 
three  Negro  foot-foldiers,  armed  with  mu fleets 
and  fabres,  an  elegant  tent,  and  a  Jewiili  inter 
preter,  who  was  perfect  matter  of  both  Arabic 
and  Englifh,  and  from  whom  in  the  end  I  derived 
the  mod  ufeful  fervices.  The  Jew  who  had  been 
prefTed  in  fo  fingular  a  manner  into  my  fervice  at 
Tangier  was  immediately,  and  doubtlefs  much  to 
his  own  fatis faction,  fent  home. 

We  performed  a  journey  of  feventy-ilx  miles, 
from  Mogodore  to  Santa  Cm  7,  in  about  thru; 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  8  I 

days,  which  from  the  former  part  of  this  Narrative 
the  reader  will  perceive  is  not  remarkably  flow 
travelling,  in  Morocco,  however  fmgular  fuch  a 
progrefs  would  appear  on  the  level  turnpikes  of 
England,  Our  journey,  which  was  on  the  fea- 
coafl,  prefented  to  our  view  one  continued  expanfe 
of  wild,  mountainous,  and  rocky  country,  and 
we  had  confequently  very  bad  roads.  Our  pro 
grefs  indeed  could  be  compared  to  nothing  but 
the  continual  afcen-ding  and  defcending  of  a  feries 
of  rough  and  uneven  ftorie  fteps.  At  one  place 
in  particular  the  dcfcent  was  fo  fteep,  and  the 
road  fo  choaked  up  with  large  pieces  of  (tone, 
that  we  were  all  obliged  to  difmount,  and  walk 
a  full  mile  and  a  half  with  the  utmoft  caution  and 
difficulty,  before  we  could  mount  again. 

Santa  Cruz  is  a  lea-port,  fituated  on  the  decli 
vity  of  a  high  and  fteep  mountain,  forming  the 
Weftern  termination  of  that  chain  of  mountains*, 
which  .nearly  divides  the  emperor's  dominions 
into  two  parts,  fo  well  known  by  the  name  of  the 
Atlas.  It  formerly  belonged  to  the  Portugueze,and 
till  the  acceflion  of  Sidi  Mahomet  was  the  prin 
cipal  place  whence  Europeans  were  allowed  to 
trade.  It  is  at  p  relent  a  delerted  town,  with  only  a 
few  houfes,  wich  are  almofl:  hourly  mouldering  to 
decay.  The  port  appears  to  be  much  more  fecure 
than  that  of  Mogodorej  and  from  the  vicinity  of 
Santa  Cruz  to  the  Southern  provinces,  it  appears 
to  me  to  be  the  part  of  the  empire  which  is  befl 
adapted  to  all  the  purpoles  of  commerce*. 

*  As  Santa  Cruz,  before  the  reign  of  Sidi  Mahomet,  was,, 
and  is  dill  capable  of  being  made  of  great  commercial  im- 
to  Europe  j  and  as  its  origin  will  afford  fome  idea 

•  how. 


82,  A  TOUR  T  MOROCCO,    &C. 

On  the  26th  of  October  we  departed  for  Taru- 
dant,  which  is  diftant  forty-four  miles  from  San 
ta  Cruz,  where  in  two  days  we  arrived.  Our 
journey  to  this  place  was  immediately  inland,  be- 
how  the  Portugweze  came  to  fettle  upon  thiscoafl;  I  muft 
trefpafs  upon  the  reader's  patience,  while  I  relate,  from  an 
eminent  Spanifh  author,  in  what  manner  it  was  firft  raifed  ; 
as  well  as  its  fubfequent  (late  while  pofleffedby  the  Moors, 
in  the  year  1737,  from  the  manufcriptof  an  Englifh  gentle 
man  who  was  refident  in  the  country  at  that  period. 

"  Agader  Aguer,  which  the  Europeans  call  Santa  Cruz, 
is  a  town  of  modern  fabric  ;  nor  can  I  any  where  find  that 
the  fpot  of  ground  on  which  it  ftands  was  ever  actual 
ly  inhabited,  till  the  beginning  of  the  flxteenth  century. 
Then,  or  very  icon  before,  in  the  reign  of  Don  Manuel, 
King  of  Portugal,  a  certain  Portugueze  adventurer  under 
took  to  fettle  there,  on  account  of  the  quantity  of  excellent 
fifh  with  which  its  bay  abounded ;  and  found  means  to 
build  himfelf  a  timber  fort  or  caftle,  which  he  garrifoned 
with  his  followers,  naming  Irs  fettlement  Santa  Cruz,  or 
Holy  Crofs  ;  his  African  neighbours  calling  it  Dar  al  Rumi, 
or  the  Chridian  Houfe. 

"  Don  Manuel  foon  after  forefeeing  the  great  importance 
of  this  place  to  the  navigation  of  thofe  Teas,  and  to  his  pro 
jected  conqueft  of  the  weftern  parts  ot  Barbary,  took  it 
into  his  own  hands,  reiinburling  the  adventurer  who  had 
founded  it,  all  his  expenses,  and  making  him  other  gratui 
ties.  Santa  Cruz  being  thus  annexed  to  the  kingdom  of 
Portugal,  it  was  foon  enlarged,  fortified,  and  well  inha 
bited  ;  and  as  this  part  of  the  world  was  at  that  time  div  ided 
among  feveral  petty  fovereigns,  generally  at  variance  \\-\th 
each  other,  it  afforded  the  new  colon}',  as  well  as  many 
others  upon  the  fame  coal!,  an  opportunity  of  cftablifhing 
a  firm  footing  in  the  country,  inducing  a  number  of  dif- 
contcnted  Arabs  and  Moors,  ivMi  a  view  of  revenging 
themfclves  on  their  various  advcriun^,  to  fwearalicgiar.ee 
to  his  Portugueze  Majefty. 

"  The  a(Mance  which  was  afrc-.-^ed  by  thefe  people  to 
the  ChrifHan  garrifons,  enabled  them  to  make  frequent 
incurfions  a  tonfiderable  way  UP  the  country,  plundering 
and  feizing  upon  a  great  number  of  the  inhabitants,  whopi 

they 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  83 

ing  in  the  direction,  and  within  half  a  day's  ride 
to  the  South  of  the  Atlas.  "We  enjoyed  the 
whole  way  from  Santa  Cruz  a  fine  level  road, 
through  a  woody  and  uncultivated  country. 

they  fent  over  to  Europe  as  (laves.  At  this  period,  the 
Portugueze  had  eftablifhed  themfelves  fo  firmly  on  the 
African  coaft,  that  had  not  the  family  of  Sharifs  darted 
up,  and  the  attention  of  thefe  Chriftian  adventurers  been 
diverted  to  their  new  acquifitions  in  America,  the  greateft 
part  of  the  country  would  in  a  fhort  time  have  been  com 
pletely  depopulated,  and  the  Portugueze  would  have 
eftablifbed  in  it  a  permanent  fovereignty. 

"  Thefe  Sharifs,  from  whom  the  prefent  royal  family 
of  Morocco  are  immediately  defcended,  obferving  the  va 
riance  between  the  people  and  their  different  fovereigns, 
and  taking  advantage  of  their  credulity,  pretended  that 
they  were  lineally  defcended  from  Mahomet,  and  that  they 
were  fent  by  him  to  protect  his  followers  from  the  oppref- 
fions  of  their  fovereigns.  They  foon  made  converts  to 
their  ftandard,  and  in  a  fhort  time  eftablifhed  themfelves 
in  the  fbvereignty  of  all  ihe  fouthern  parts  of  Barbary.  In 
order  to  add  importance  to  their  government,  and  know 
ing  that  it  would  flatter  the  prejudices  of  their  fubjects, 
who  had  been  fo  continually  haraflfed  by  their  Chriftian 
neighbours,  they  determined  upon  expelling  the  Portu 
gueze  from  Santa  Cruz,  and  if  fuccefstiil,  tocarry  on  their 
attacks  againft  the  other  Chriftian  garrifons  upon  the  Bar 
bary  coaft. 

"  For  thispurpofe,  in  the  year  1536,  an  army  of  50,000 
men,  horfe  and  foot,  was  raifed  with  all  expedition,  and 
put  under  the  command  of  Muley  Hamed  al  HalTan,  who 
with  this  force  completely  invefted  the  garrifon.  After 
many  unfuccefsful  attacks  on  the  part  of  the  Moors,  Santa 
Cruz  at  Lift  owed  its  definition  to  the  negligence  of  one 
of  its  own  people;  who  carrying  a  lighted  match  into  the 
powder-magazine,  it  unfortunately  blew  up,  and  by  its 
concuilion  made  a  large  breach  in  the  wall ;  of  which  the 
Moors  availing  themfelves,  they  immediately  recovered 
their  fpirits,  and,  headed  by  their  commander,  haftened 
ifl  force  up  to  the  breach,,  before  the  aftonifhed  Portugueze 


84  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Upon  my  arrival  at  Tarudant,  without  being 
allowed  time  to  difmount,  I  was  immediately  car 
ried  to  the  refidence  of  the  prince,  which  is  fitua- 
ted  about  half  a  mile  to  the  South  of  the  town. 

had  time  to  apply  a  proper  remedy  to  this  unforefeen  ac 
cident.  They  now  attacked  their  enemy  with  lb  much 
energy,  and  with  fuch  fuperior  numbers,  that  they  loon 
reduced  the  garrifon,  and  put  every  perfon  in  it  to  the 
fword. 

"  Thus  did  Santa  Cruz  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors, 
by  whom  it  has  ever  fmce been  potfelled.  The  lofs  of  this 
important  place  proved  extremely  injurious  to  the  Portu- 
gueze  navigation  to  Guinea  and  India,  by  affording  a  har 
bour  to  their  European  enemies,  whole  ihips  were  accuf- 
tomed  to  Hip  out  from  this  port,  and  to  plunder  and 
take  the  Portngueze  as  they  pa  (Ted  by  ;  while  they  fttpplied 
thofe  barbarians  with  powder,  cannon,  and  01  her  warlike 
(lores,  enabling  the  Moors  by  that  means,  in  the  courfeof 
lime,  to  attack  the  other  poffeflions  of  the  Portugueze  in 
.Africa." 

My  Englilh  author,  who  dates  his  manufcript  in  January 
1-73-7,  gives  the  following  account  of  Santa  Cruz:  — 

"  Santa  Cruz  is  a  city  of  Africa,  in  the  kin-gdom  of  Suz, 
fubjecl  to  the  Emperor  of  Fez  and  Morocco,  iituated  in 
a  temperate  air,  on  a  mountain  dillant  about  half  a  league 
from  the  fea,  in  the  latitude  30  deg.  35  min.  North,  feven 
leagues  from  Cape  de  Guerra,  fixty  from  Morocco,  one 
hundred  and  forty  from  Fez,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty 
from  Mequinez.  It  is  in  circumference  about  three  quar 
ters  cf  a  mile,  of  a  fquare  form,  the  four  fides  fronting 
the  four  quarters  of  the  world.  On  the  eaft,  it  has  a  Ipacious 
plain  of  fand;  on  the  weft,  the  fea;  to  the  north,  about 
the  diitance  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  is  a  fmall  village,  con 
taining  about  twenty  inhabitants ;  and  on  the  icuth  is  its 
entrance,  oppofite  to  the  mount  of  Tylde. 

"  'I  he  town  is  cncompalled  with  walls  defended  by  feven 
baft'ons,  having  artillery  mounted  on  them  which  cany 
between  four  and  fix  pound  balls  ;  there  are  alfo  feme  fix- 
tec  n  and  twenty-four  pounders,  but,  owing^to  their  not 
having  proper  perfpns  to  work  them,  thcfe  pieces  of  ord- 


A  TOUH  TO  MOROCCO,   &C.  85 

At  a  ihort  diftance,  the  ho  life,  which  is  fmall, 
and  was  built  by  the  prince,  has  a  great  appearance 
of  neatnefs;  butthat  want  of  tafle  and  convenience, 
which  is  univerfally  the  characteriftic  of  thg|Moor- 
i(h  buildings,  is  prefently  clifcernable  w*nen  it  is 
narrowly  infpedled.  It  is  compofed  of  tabby, 
and  is  furrounded  with  a  high  fquare  wall,  which 
alfo  enclofes  two  tolerably  neat  gardens,  planned 

nance  are  fufFered  to  lie  on  the  ground  half  buried,  render 
ing  them  by  that  means  entirely  ufelefs.  The  walls  indeed 
are  only  of  fufficient  Itrength  to  refift  an  attack  from  their 
neighbouring  enemies,  the  Arabs,  who  have  no  ordnance 
to  oppofe  them  with,  but  they  could  by  no  means  with- 
(tand  even  a  weak  cannonade  from  a  regular  appointed 
artillery. 

"  Santa  Cruz  is  a  place  of  confiderable  trade,  owing  to 
the  great  quantities  of  copper  which  they  procure  from 
mines  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Tafilet.  It  is  alfo  plentiful 
ly  iiored  with  various  other  merchandizes,  fitch  as  wax  pro 
cured  from  HejaSaxitand  Morocco,  the  bed  in  the  country, 
Morocco  leather,  yellow  leather  of  Tafilet,  almond.-,,  gum 
arabic,  gum  fandarac,  cftrich  feathers,  elephants  teeth, 
gold  dull,  and  fait  petre,  wirch  is  exported  wiili  fbme 
difficulty  owing  to  its  being  contraband.  There  are  alfo 
other  merchandizes  of  European  Manufacture,  fucli  as 
iron,  leather  from  Buenos  Ayres,  mufquets,  fwords,  and 
all  kinds  of  hard-ware,  &c.  as  well  as  thofe  cf  Alia  and 
the  eaftern  parts  of  Africa,  brought  thither  by  caravans, 
The  people  are  for  the  moft  part  of  a  tawny,  fun- burnt 
complexion,  (pare  and  lean  in  body,  but  active,  llrono-, 
and  capable  of  undergoing  any  labour  or  hardfhip,  pretty 
good  ceconomifts,  not  much  addicted  to  prodigality  or 
vanity,  and  are  dexterous  and  active  in  their  trade  and 
bufmefs." 

Such  was  the  (late  of  Santa  Cruz  before  Sidi  Mahomet 
ordered  it  to  be  evacuated  by  the  European  merchants: 
and  it  is  impcfTible  to  read  this  account  wifhout  being  con 
vinced  that  what  I  have  advanced,  with  refpecl  to  its  im 
portance  in  a  commercial  view,  is  net  beyond  the  truth. 


86  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

by  an  European,  and  now  under  the  care  of  a 
Spaniih  renegado.  The  apartments,  which  are 
all  on  the  ground-floor,  are  fquare  and  lofty, 
opening  into  a  court,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
fountain.  The  entrance  is  through  a  fmall  arched 
door-way,  which  leads  into  a  court-yard,  where 
on  one  fide  are  a  few  out-houfes ;  on  the  other, 
the  fpace  allotted  for  the  horfes  of  the  prince. 
As  the  climate  is  open  and  fine,  there  are  few  or 
no  {tables  in  this  country,  but  the  horfes  are  kept 
out  in  an  open  yard,  and  held  by  pins  fixed  in  the 
ground. 

There  is  not  much  of  magnificence,  it  muft  be 
confefTed,  in  this  introduction,  nor  did  any  thing 
occur  to  counteract  the  unfavourable  impreffion, 
previous  to  our  entering  the  apartment  of  the 
prince.  The  chamber  into  which  I  was  conducted, 
I  found  a  fmall  room  with  feats  in  the  walls;  and 
there  it  is  cuftomany  for  all  perfons  to  wait  till 
their  names  are  announced.  I  obferved  a  number 
of  fmgtilar  looking  perfons  attending  here;  and 
as  I  was  not  much  difpofed  to  make  one  of  their 
company,  infteacl  of  fitting,  I  amufed  myfelf,  as 
Europeans  do,  with  walking  about  the  room.  In 
this  exercife,  however,  I  was  a  folitary  perfor 
mer;  for  the  Moors,  whatever  be  their  object, 
^  whether  bufmefs,  cover fation,  or  amufement,  are 
generally  feated ;  and  indeed  fo  novel  to  them  was 
my  deportment  in  this  refpect,  that  they  concluded 
-Twas  either  diftracted  in  my  intellect,  or  faying 
my  prayers. 

After  being  detained  in  this  difagreeable  fit  na 
tion  for  about  an  hour,  orders  were  brought  from 
the  prince  for  rny  immediate  introduction  with  my 

interpreter.. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  87 

interpreter.  From  the  chamber  where  we  had 
been  waiting,  we  palled  through  a  long  and  dark 
entry,  which  at  its  termination  introduced  us  to 
a  fquare  court-yard,  floored  with  checquered 
tiling,  into  which  the  prince's  room  opened,  by 
means  of  large  folding-doors.  Thefe  were  curi- 
ouily  painted  with  various  colours,  in  the  form  of 
checquers.  The  immediate  entrance  to  the  room 
was  neat  •,  it  was  a  very  large  arched  door 
way,  curiouily  ornamented  with  checquered  tile* 
ing,  and  forming  a  final  1  porch,  or  antichamber. 
The  room  was  lofty,  fquare,  and  floored  with 
checquered  tiling  ;  the  walls  ftuccoed,  and  the 
deling  painted  of  various  colours.  Much  of  the 
beauty  of  the  room  was  loft  for  want  of  win 
dows,  which  is  a  defect  obfervable  in  moll 
Moorifh.  houfes. 

I  found  the  prince  fitting  crofs-legged,  on  a 
matrafs  covered  with  fine  white  linen,  and  placed 
on  the  floor ;  this,  with  a  narrow  and  long 
piece  of  carpeting  that  fronted  him  on  which 
were  feated  his  Moorifh  friends,  was  the  only 
furniture  in  the  room.  Upon  my  firft  entrance, 
and  delivering  the  confnl's  letter  of  introduftion, 
which  acccording  to  the  cuftom  of  the  country, 
was  prefented  in  a  filk  handkercief,  I  was  ad- 
drefTed  by  the  prince  with  the  falutation  Bono 
tibib)  bono  Anglaife ;  which  is  a  mixture  of  Arabic 
and  Spanifh,  meaning,  "  You  are  a  good  doctor, 
the  Englifh  are  good  •,"  and  was  ordered  with  my 
interpreter  to  fit  down  on  the  floor,  between  the 
prince  and  his  vifitors }  when  I  was  immediately 
interrogated  by  every  one*  prefent,  each  having  a 

queftioa 


88  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

queftion  to  put  to  me,  and  that  of  the  moft  in- 
figniiicant  kind. 

The  prince  exprefTed  great  pleafure  at  my  arri 
val,  wilhed  to  know  whether  I  came  voluntarily 
or  not,  and  whether  the  Englifh  phylicians  were 
in  high  repute.  To  the  firfl  queftion  I  replied, 
that  I  was  fent  by  order  of  the  governor  of  Gib 
raltar  :  to  the  fecond,  I  felt  it  a  duty  which  I 
owed  to  truth  and  to  my  country,  to  apfwer  in 
the  affirmative.  He  then  defired  me  immediately 
to  feel  his  pulfe  and  to  examine  his  eyes,  one  of 
which  was  darkened  by  a  cataract,  and  the  other 
afFefted  with  a  paralytic  complaint,  and  requeued 
me  to  inform  him,  whether  I  would  undertake  to 
cure  him*,  and  how  foon  ?  My  anfwer  was,  that 
I  wifiied  to  confider  his  cafe  maturely  before  I 
gave  my  opinion  •,  and  in  a  day  or  two  I  iliould 
be  a  better  judge. 

One  of  his  particular  friends  obferved  to  him, 
from  feeing  me  without  a  beard,  for  I  had  fliaved 
in  the  morning,  I  was  too  young  to  be  an  able 
phyfician.  Another  remarked,  that  I  had  put 
powder  in  my  hair  on  purpoie  to  difguife  my  age; 
and  a  third  infilled,  that  it  was  not  my  own  hair. 
But  what  feemed  to  produce  the  greatefr.  aftonifh- 
ment  among  them,  was  my  drefs,  which  from  its 
clofenefs,  the  Mooriili  drefs  being  quite  loofe, 
they  were  certain  mufl  occafion  pain,  and  be  dif- 
agreeably  warm. 

The  reader  may  be  afFared,  that  a  part  of  this 
converfation  was  not  very  entertaining  to  rrte  ; 
and  indeed  after  the  great  fatigue  which  I  rMcl 
uadcrgoncj  I  could  well  have  dilpenfed  with  moil 

of 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  89 

of  their  interrogatories  ;  but  inftead  of  the  di£ 
million  and  repofe  which  I  wifhed  and  expefted, 
my  patience  was  exhaufted  by  the  abfard  curi- 
oiicy  of  the  whole  court,  who  one  after  another 
intreated  me  to  favour  them  with  my  opinion, 
and  inform  them  of  the  ftate  of  their  health, 
merely  by  feeling  the  pulfe.  Having  acquitted 
myfelf  to  the  beft  of  my  ability  in  this  curious  en 
quiry,  the  prince  informed  me,  lie  had  prepared  for 
my  reception  a  good  houle,  whither  he  defired  me 
to  retire,  and  vifit  him  the  following  morning  early, 
when  I  was  to  examine  his  cafe  more  particularly. 
The  good  houfe  promifed  me  by  the  prince, 
proved  to  be  a  miferable  room  in  the  Jew- 
dry,  that  is,  the  part  of  the  fuburb  inhabited  by 
the  Jews,  fituated  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  the  town.  It  was  however,  the  habitation 
of  the  prince's  principal  Jew,  and  the  beft  in  the 
place.  This  apartment  which  was  on  the  ground 
floor,  was  narrow  and  dirty,  having  no  windows, 
to  it,  but  opening  by  means  of  large  folding- 
doors  into  a  court,  where  three  Jewlfh  families, 
who  lived  all  in  the  fame  houfe,  threw  the  whole 
of  their  rubbifh  and  dirt.  I  iuppofe  my  feelings 
might  be  rendered  more  acute  by  the  difappoint- 
ment,  for  on  being  introduced  into  this  wretched 
hovel,  I  was  fo  ft  ruck  with  horror  and  c!  Hint  ft,  that 
I  was  on  the  point  of  mounting  my  hr/dt9  for  the 
purpofe  of  afking  the  prince  for  another  apart 
ment;  but  upon  being  told  it  was  the  beft  in  the 
town,  and  reflecting  that  I  had  voluntarily  entered 
upon  thefe  difficulties,  I  determined  to  ft  niggle 
through  them  as  well  as  I  could,  and  confcnted 
for  the  prefent  to  acqnieice  in  this  indifferent  fare. 

I  took 


pO  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,'  &C. 

I  took,  however,  the  fir  ft  opportunity  of  rep  re 
ferring  my  difagreeable  fituation  to  the  prince,  who 
gave  orders  for  apartments  to  be  fitted  up  for  me 
in  his  garden ;  but  from  the  flownels  of  the  ma- 
•ibns,  thyy  were  not  finiflied  in  time  for  me  to  oc 
cupy  them  before  I  left-Tarudant.  The  prince's 
Jew  had  directions  to  fnpply  me  with  every  thing 
that  was  neceffary ;  and  while  at  Tarudant  I  had 
no  reafon  whatever  to  complain  of  any  inattention 
on  the  part  of  the  prince. 

As  foon  as  my  baggage  was  unpacked,  the  firft 
object  that  occurred  to  me  was  to  endeavour,  un 
der  thefe  circumftances,  to  make  my  fituation  as 
comfortable  as  the  nature  of  it  would  admit. 
At  one  end  of  my  room  I  placed  my  three  folding 
{tools,  which  I  had  ufed  as  a  bed  on  the  road, 
and  fcreened  it  off  as  well  as  I  could  with  mats, 
which  I  fixed  acrofs  the  apartment  as  a  partition. 
One  of  my  boxes  were  fubflituted  for  a  table,  and 
another  for  a  chair,  not  being  able  to  procure 
cither  of  thofe  articles  in  Tarndant.  At  the  other 
end  of  the  room  my  interpreter  placed  his  bed 
ding  on  the  floor,  where  he  flept  during  the  whole 
of  our  ftay. 

Having  furnhlied  our  room,  our  next  object 
was  to  confider  in  what  manner  our  cookery  was 
to  be  performed.  The  whole'  of  our  kitchen  fur 
niture  confifted  of  one  fmall  iron  fauce-pan,  one 
pewter  didi,  two  pewter  plates,  a  horn  to  drink 
out  of,  and  two  knives  and  forks.  As  the  Moors 
are  many  of  them  accuftomed  to  the  uie  A  tea, 
breakfaiting  articles  we  were  not  at  a  lofs  for. 
On  the  road  the  iron  fauce-pan  had  ferved  very 
well  to  boil  our  eggs  and  fowls,  which,  as  I  be 
fore 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  BcC.  9! 

fore  obferved,  were  the  only  food  we  could  pro 
cure.  But  at  Tarudant  we  found  ourlelves  in  a 
aland  of  plenty,  without  having -it  in  our  power 
to  avail  ourfelvcs  of  fuch  an  advantage.  After  a 
few  days  inconvenience  on  this  account,  I  found 
out  a  Jew,  who  contrived  to  drefs  me  a  few 
h allies  and  ftews  ipmething  in  the  Spanifh  ftile, 
with  which  fare  1  was  obliged  to  be  fatisfied  du 
ring  my  refidence  at  Tarudant. 

Two  hours  before  my  arrival,  the  whole  of  the 
Englidi  people  who  had  been  fliipwrecked,  except 
the  captain  and  a  Negro,  pafTed  through  the  town 
in  their  way  to  the  Metropolis.  They  had  been  re 
deemed  from  the  wild  Arabs,  by  Muley  AbfulenT, 
with  an  intent,  I  prefume,  of  complying  with  his 
promife,  but  by  the  emperor's  orders  were  lent  up 
to  Morocco. 

Upon  my  vifi ting  the  prince  the  following  day, 
and  examining  into  the  nature  of  his  complaint, 
I  found  it  to  be  of  the  mod  defperate  kind;  but 
r.s  I  had  travelled  near  five  hundred  miles  to  fee 
him,  I  could  not  be  iatisfied  to  return  back  with 
out  attempting  fomething;  I  therefore  gave  a 
formal  opinion  to  the  prince  in  writing,  Hating, 
that  I  could  by  no  means  abfplutely  undertake  to 
cure  him;  that  I  could  not  even  flatter  him  with 
very  great  hopes  of  fuccefs  ;  but  that  if  he  chofe 
to  give  my  plan  of  treatment  a  trial  for  a  couple 
of  months,  we  could  then  judge  whether  the.'dif. 
eafe  was  likely  to  be  removed.  This  plan  was 
approfljy.  of  5  and  he  immediately  began  his  courie 
of  medicines. 

I  have  already  intimated,  that  the  prince  had 
totally  loft  the  ufe  of  one  eye  by  a  cataract  5  and 

I  may 


92  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

I  may  add,  that  he  had  nearly  loft  that  of  the 
other  by  a  paralytic  affection,  which  threatened 
to  end  in  a  gutta  ferena*,  and  which  had  drawn 
the  eye  fo  much  towards  the  nofe,  as  ibmetimes 
entirely  to  exclude  the  appearance  of  the  pupil. 
The  only  remains  of  fight  left,  were  merely  fuf~ 
ficient  to  enable  him  to  iee  large  bodies  without 
dillingmfhing  any  of  them  particularly.  The 
ipafm  was  the  difeafe  which  I  was  ordered  to 
cure. 

But  theie  were  by  no  means  the  limits  of  the 
prince's  complaints.  For  in  truth,  his  whole 
frame  was  fo  enervated  by  a  conrfe  of  debauchery, 
that  I  found  it  neceffary  to  put  him  under  a  ftrift 
regimen ;  to  enforce  the  obfervance  of  which,  I 
committed  from  time  to  time  my  directions  to 
writing.  They  were  tranflated  into  Arabic,  and 
one  copy  delivered  to  the  prince,  and  the  other  to 
his  confidential  friend,  who  undertook,  at  my 
requefr,  to  fee  them  carried  into  execution. 

As  I  adminiftered  internal  as  well  as  topical 
remedies,  I  made  a  point  of  giving  them  to  my 
patient  with  my  own  hand.  The  prince  made  no 
difficulty  of  fwallowing  the  medicine,  however 
naufeous  ;  but  it  was  a  long  time  before  I  could 
make  him  comprehend,  how  a  medicine  intro 
duced  into  the  ftomach  could  afford  any  relief  to 
the  eye.  I  muft,  however,  do  him  the  jullice  to 
fay,  that  I  found  him  a  more  apt  difciple  than  any 
of  his  attendants.  Many  of  them  could  not  be 
made  at  all  to  underftand  the  aftion  of  medicines, 

*  l>y  this  difeafe  is  to  be  underfiood,  fuch  a  fb*e  of  the 
Optic  nerve  as  renders  it  infenfible  to  the  rays  of  light. 

and 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  93 

and  of  confcquence  were  full  ot  prejudices  againft 
my  mode  of  treatment. 

In  a  few  days  after  my  fir  ft  attendance  on  the 
prince,  one  of  his  prejudiced  friends  periuaded 
his  highnefs,  that  I  had  adminiftered  medicines  to 
him  intended  to  produce  a  certain  effect  upon  his 
conftitution,  of  which  I  had  never  entertained  fo 
much  as  an  idea  before  it  was  mentioned  to  me. 
What  this  effect  was  I  cannot  with  decency  ex 
plain.  Suffice  it  to  fay  that  theie  malignant  infi- 
nuations  had  too  powerful  an  effect  on  the  mind 
of  my  patient,  and  he  exprefTed  himfelf  to  me 
upon  the  fubject  in  terms  which  I  could  not  hear 
without  the  moft  poignant  indignation  and  un- 
eafmefs. 

I  vindicated  my  conduct  as  well  as  I  was  able* 
under  the  difadvantages  of  an  interpretation  by 
explaining  to  him  how  impoflibie  tor  the  medi- 
dicines  to  have  the  effect  he  fufpected ;  and  how- 
much  more  to  my  credit,  as  well  as  advantage,  it 
would  be  to  re-eftablifh  his  health  than  to  do  him 
a  prejudice;  that  a  profeflional  man  had  a  cha 
racter  ;  which  when  once  loft  was  irrecoverable ; 
and  that  therefore  I  trufted  he  would  reflect  on 
my  fituation,  and  confider  me  in  a  more  favour 
able  light  than  his  refentment  at  firft  had  led  him 
to  fuggeft.  The  prince  began  now  to  retract  his 
calumny,  by  faying  that  he  believed  the  medicines 
had  produced  an  effect  different  from  what  1  in 
tended,  but  that  it  was  the  duty  of  the  patient  to 
inform  his  phyfician  of  every  circumftance  which 
related  to  his  health.  In  fhort,  after  a  variety  of 
explanations,  I  at  laft  brought  him  to  conlent  to 
give  my  plan  a  few  days  longer  trial,  and  if  then 

there 


94  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

there  appeared  any  objections  to  the  purfuing  of 
it,  I  would  willingly  conlent  to  give  it  up  en 
tirely.  Thofe  days  being  elapfed,  and  none  of 
the  fnfpefted  effects  appearing,  the  prince  pro 
ceeded  regularly  in  the  courfe  agreeably  to  my 
dire6lions. 

The  intermediate  time  between  my  attendance 
on  the  prince  whom  I  vifited  twice  a-day,  was 
employed  in  reading  a  few  books  which  I  brought 
with  me  from  Mogodore,  making  little  excur- 
fions  into  the  country,  and  vifiting  patients  at 
Tarudant. 

Among  the  latter  was  the  Cadi,  or  judge  of 
the  town.  This  I  found  to  be  a  venerable  old 
man,  of  about  feventy  years  of  age,  whofe  beard 
was  become  perfectly  white,  and  whofe  coun 
tenance,  though  doubtlefs  altered  by  time,  yet 
ftill  retained  a  great  expreflion  of  vivacity  and 
fenfe,  mixed  with  more  apparent  goodnefs  of 
heart  than  any  I  had  feen  in  the  country.  He 
received  me  with  the  greatefl  refpeft,  and  ex- 
prefTed  his  gratitude  for  my  vifit  in  a  manner  that 
appeared  ftrongly  marked  with  fmcerity.  He 
feemed  fully  aware  tnat  his  complaint  was  merely 
a  decay  of  nature,  and  only  wiihed  me  t^  admi- 
niiler  fomething  to  him  which  might  palliate  his 
moil  urgent  fymptoms.  With  a  great  fhare  of 
feeling  he  expatiated  on  the  inconveniences  I  muft 
undergo,  from  being  at  fo  great  a  diftance  from 
my  friends,  and  in  a  part  of  the  world  where  the 
manners  of  the  people  were  fo  different  from 
what  I  had  been  accuflomed  to,  expreffing  his 
wifh  at  the  fame  time  to  render  me  every  fervice 
that  a  perfon  in  his  fituation  could  offer.  Such 

an 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  95 

an  uncommon  (hare  of  ieiiiiDiluy  and  reflexion, 
from  one  \vhofe  countrymen  are  in  general  in  a 
very  finall  degree  removed  from  the  favage  ftate, 
excited  in  me  a  warm  ^efire  of  rendering  my  pa 
tient  a  fervice  j  among  the  many  queftions  he  put 
to  me,  he  alked  what  was  cuflomary  for  our 
judges  in  England  to  receive  as  a  reward  for  their 
fervices.  Upon  my  informing  him,  the  Cadi  was 
in  perfeft  aitonifhment :  "Good  God!"  he  ex 
claimed,  "  the  emperor  allows  me  only  fifty 
"  ducats  (about  twelve  pounds  fterling)  a  year !" 
I  wifh  I  could  have  it  in  my  power  to  give  as 
favourable  an  account  of  my  other  patients  at 
Tarudant,  as  of  this  refpedlable  old  man.  The 
generality  of  them  proved  infolent,  ungrateful, 
and  many,  who  vifited  my  habitation,  notorious 
thieves.  From  my  apartment  being  in  the  houfe 
of  a  Jew,  none  of  whom  dare  venture  to  prevent 
a  Moor  from  entering,  I  was  from  morning  to 
night  peftered  with  Arabs,  mountaineers  and  the 
worft  defcription  of  towns-people,  who  were  fel- 
dom  fatisfied  with  my  advice,  but  infifted  on  my 
either  giving  them  money,  or  fomething  elie  equal 
in  value.  Many  I  turned  out  of  my  room  by 
force,  while  with  difficulty  they  reftrained  their 
refentment  at  my  conduft,  and  every  moment 
threatened  to  draw  their  knives  upon  me ;  to 
others,  who  behaved  a  little  better,  I  gave  fome 
thing  to  get  rid  of  them;  and  to  a  third  who, 
were  real  objects  of  diftrefs,  I  with  pleafure  ex 
tended  my  utmoft  ailiftance.  On  the  whole,  my 
lituation  was  fuch  as  to  oblige  me  to  complain  of 
it  to  the  prince,  who  afterwards  allowed  me  a  fol- 
dier  to  mount  -guard  conftantly  at  my  door,  who 

had 


96  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

had  directions  to  permit  no  perfon  to  enter  my 
room  without  my  particular  permiffion. 

It  was  with  the  greateft  pkafure  that  in  about 
a  fortnight  after  my  firfl  attendance  on  the  prince, 
I  obferved  an  amendment  m  his  complaint.  His 
eye  now  evinced  a  difpofition  to  recover  its  for 
mer  pofition ;  at  Jirft  he  was  able  only  to  difcern 
light  from  darknefs,  but  he  could  now  diftinguifh, 
an  app^e  at  about  ten  yards  diftance. 

Thefe  flattering  appearances  entirely  removed 
every  prejudice  which  at  firft  arofe  in  the  minds 
of  the  prince's  attendants ;  and  his  highnefs  him- 
ielf  acknowledged  that  he  had  been  too  hafty  in 
forming  his  opinion  of  me.  The  confidence  which 
this  fuccefs  occafioned,  induced  the  prince  to  ad 
mit  me  into  his  Harem,  where  there  were  feveral 
ladies  who  had  occafion  for  iny  fervices. 

Though  this  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of 
feeing  the  Harem,  I  {hall  wave  a  particular  de- 
fcription  of  it,  as  it  only  differed  from  that  of  the 
the  emperor  (which  I  fhall  hereafter  very  particu 
larly  defcribe)  by  being  on  a  fmaller  fcale. 

Upon  receiving  the  prince's  orders  to  attend 
his  ladies,  one  of  his  friends  was  immediately 
difpatched  with  me  to  the  gate  of  the  Harem  ; 
with  direftions  to  the  Alcaide*  of  the  eunuchs  to 
admit  my  felt  and  interpreter  whenever  I  thought 
it  necelfary. 

The  eunuchs,  who  have  the  entire  charge  of 
the  women,  and  who  in  facl:  live  always  among 
them,  are  the  children  of  Negro  ilaves.  They 
are  generally  either  very  (hort  and  fat  •,  or  elfe 

*  An  officer  in  the  general  idea  of  the  word. 

tall, 

2 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C,  97 

tall,  deformed,  and  lame.  Their  voices  have  that 
particular  tone  which  is  obfervable  in  youths  who 
are  j uft  arriving  at  manhood  ;  and  their  perfcns  al 
together  afford  a  difgufting  image  of  weaknefs 
and  effeminacy.  From  the  trufl  repofed  in  them 
by  their  mailers,  and  the  confequence  which  it 
gives  them,  the  eunuchs  exceed  in  infolence  and 
pride  every  other  dais  of  people  in  the  country. 
They  difplayed  indeed  fo  much  of  it  towards  me, 
that  I  was  obliged,  in  my  own  defence,  to  com 
plain  of  them  once  or  twice,  and  to  have  them 
puni  filed. 

Attended  by  one  of  thefe  people,  after  palling 
the  gate  of  the  Harem,  which  is  always  locked, 
and  under  the  care  of  a  guard  of  eunuchs,  we 
entered  a  narrow  and  dark  paffage,  which  focn 
brought  us  to  the  court,  into  which  the  wo 
men's  chambers  open.  We  here  law  numbers  of 
both  black  and  white  women  and  children ;  fome 
concubines,  fome  flaves,  and  others  hired  do- 
meflics. 

Upon  their  obfervmg  the  unufual  figure  of  an 
European,  the  whole  multitude  in  a  body  fur- 
rounded  me,  and  expreiled  the  utmoft  ailonifli- 
ment  at  my  drefs  and  appearance.  Some  flood 
motionlefs  with  their  hands  lifted  up,  their  eyes 
fixed,  and  their  mouths  open,  in  the  ufaal  atti 
tude  of  wonder'  and  furprize.  Some  burfl  into 
immoderate  fits  of  laughter  \  while  others  again 
came  up,  and,  with  uncommon  attention,  eyed  me 
head  to  loot,  The  parts  of  my  drefs  which 
fecmecl  moil  to  ?.tt  afl  ilic-ir  notice  were  my 
buckles,  button;,  a  -^gM  for  neither  men 

nor  \von:en  in  this  ty  thing  of  the 

F  'kind. 


98  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

kind.  With  refpeft  to  the  club  of  my  hair,  they 
feemed  utterly  at  a  lofs  in  what  view  to  confider 
it ;  but  the  powder  which  I  wore  they  conceived 
to  be  employed  for  the  purpofe  of  destroying  ver 
min.  Moil  of  the  children  when  they  faw  me, 
ran  away  in  the  moft  perfeft  confternation  •>  and 
on  the  whole  I  appeared  as  fingular  an  animal, 
and  I  dare  fay  had  the  honour  of  exciting  as 
much  curiofity  and  attention,  as  a  lion,  or  a  man- 
tiger  juft  imported  from  abroad,  and  introduced 
into  a  country  town  in  England  on  a  market-day. 
Every  time  I  vifited  the  Harem  I  was  furrounded 
and  laughed  at  by  this  curious  mob,  who,  on 
my  entering  the  gate,  followed  me  clofe  to  the 
very  chamber  to  which  I  was  proceeding,  and  on 
my  return  univerfally  efcorted  me  out.  * 

The  greatefl  part  of  the  women  were  uncom 
monly  fat  and  unwieldy ;  had  black  and  full 
eyes,  round  faces,  with  fmall  nofes.  They  were 
of  different  complexions ;  fome  very  fair,  ibme 
lallow,  and  others  again  perfeft  Negroes. 

One  ot  my  new  patients  being  ready  to  re* 
ceive  me,  I  was  defired  to  walk  into  her  room  ; 
where,  to  my  great  furprife,  I  faw  ,  nothing 
bat  a  curtain  drawn  quite  acrofs  the  apartment, 
fimilar  to  that  of  a  theatre  which  feparates  the 
ftage  from  the  auc-ience.  A  female  domeilic 
brought  a  very  low  ftool,  placed  it  near  the  cur- 
ta':n,  and  told  me  I  was  to  fit  down  there,  and 
feel  her  miftrefs'b  pulfe. 

The  lady,  who  had  by  this  time  fummoned  up 

murage  to  fpeak,  introduced  her  hand  from  the 

Vn.ttom  of  the  curtain,  and  defired  me  to  inform 

her  of  all  her  complaints,  which  fhc  conceded  I 

might 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  99 

might  perfeftly  perceive  by  merely  feeling  the 
ptiHe.  It  was  in  vain  to  afk  her  where  her  pain 
was  feated,  whether  in  her  ftomach,  head,  or 
back;  the  only  anfwer  I  could  procure  was  a  re- 
queft  to  feel  the  pulfe  of  the  other  hand,  and  then 
point  out  the  feat  of  the  difeafe,  and  the  nature  of 
the  pain. 

Having  neither  fatisfted  my  curiofity  by  exhibit 
ing  her  face,  nor  made  me  acquainted  with  the 
nature  of  her  complaint,  I  was  under  the  necefli- 
ty  of  informing  her  in  pofitive  terms,  that  to  un- 
derftand  the  difeafe  it  was  abfolutely  neeefTary  to 
fee  the  tongue,  as  well  as  to  feel  the  pulfe j  and 
that  without  it  I  could  do  nothing  for  her.  My 
eloquence,  or  rather  that  of  my  Jewifh  interpreter, 
\\ias,  however,  for  a  long  time  exerted  in  vain; 
and  I  am  perfuaded  {he  would  have  difmifled  me 
without  any  further  enquiry,  had  not  her  invention 
fupplied  her  with  a  happy  expedient  to  remove 
her  embarrafTment.  She  contrived  at  lafl  to  cut 
a  hole  through  the  curtain,  through  which  ihe 
extruded  her  tongue,  and  thus  complied  with  my 
injunftion  as  far  as  it  was  neceflary  in  a  medical 
view,  but  moft  effectually  difappointed  my  cu 
riofity. 

I  was  afterwards  ordered  to  look  at  another  of 
the  prince's  wives,  who  was  affefted  with  a  fcro- 
phulus  iwelling  in  her  neck.  This  lady  was,  in 
the  fame  manner  as  the  other,  at  firft  excluded 
from  my  fight;  but  as  {he  was  obliged  to  {hew  me 
her  complaint,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  feeing  her 
face,  and  obferved  it  to  be  very  handfome.  I  was 
informed  that  ihe  had  been  at  one  period  the 
favourite  of  the  prince,  but  owing  to  this  defect 
F  2  he 


3 CO  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

he  had  in  a  great  meafure  deferted  her;  and  this 
<:ircumftance  accounts  for  the  extreme  anxiety 
which  flie  feemed  to  exprefs  to  get  rid  of  this  dii- 
agreeable  dileale. 

As  foon  as  I  had  examined  her  neck,  (lie  took 
off  from  her  drefs  the  whole  of  her  gold  trinkets, 
-which  were  very  numerous,  and  of  confiderable 
value,  put  them  into  my  hand,  and  defired  me  to 
-cure  her;  promifmg  a  (till  greater  reward  if  I 
fucceeded.  Confcious  of  the  uncertainty  of  render 
ing  her  any  material  fervice,  1  immediately  re 
turned  the  prefcnt,  and  afTaredher  that  (he  might 
depend  on  my  giving  all  proper  remedies  a  fair 
trial,  but  that  I  could  not  be  anfwerable  for  their 
fuccefs.  There  is  nothing  more  unpleafant  than 
the  inability  of  giving  realbnable  ground  for  hop^e, 
•when  it  promifes  to  be  productive  of  fo  much  hap- 
p'nefs  to  a  fellow-creature.  It  was  with  pain  I 
obferyed  that  this  poor  lady,  though  fomewhat 

red,  was  yet  difTatisfied  with  my  reply;  (lie 
con  Id  not  refrain  from  (bowing  evident  marks  of 
difappointmentj  and  even  difpleafure,  at  my  heiita- 
tion,  by  faying,  fhe  always  underllood  that  a 
Chfiftian  pnyijciap  could  cure  every  difeafe. 

During  the  courfe  of  my  attendance  in  the  Ha 
rem,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  feeing  mod  of  the 
princes  women,  who,  exclufive  of  the  four  wives 
allowed  him  by  his  religion,  were  about  twenty 
in  number,  and  who  did  not,  like  his  wives,  dh- 
cover  that  invincible  reluctance  to  the  difplay  of 
their  beauty.  They  at  fir  ft  proved  very  trouble- 
jone  parents;  for  upon  my  not  telling  them  all 

•   complaints    immediately   upon    feeling    the 
[ered  n:e  as  ai.  i 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  lOt 

who  knew  nothing  of  my  profeffion.  Befides  this,. 
I  found  that  each  of  them  flattered  themfelves 
with  almoft  an  inftantaneous  cure.  In  fhort,  after 
many  fruitlefs  efforts  to  teach  thcfe  to  reafon  who 
had  'hitherto  never  made  the  fmalleft  ufe  of  their 
jmderftandings,  I  was  at  laft  obliged  to  adapt  my 
deportment  to  the  capacities  of  my  patients,  and 
loon  acquired  among  them  as  much  undeferved 
commendation  as  I  had  incurred  unmerited  re 
proach. 

Mofl  of  the  women  in  the  Harem  were  under 
thirty  years  of  age,  of  a  corpulent  habit,  and  of 
a  very  aukward  gait.  Their  knowledge  of  courfe, 
from  having  led  a  life  of  total  feclufion  from  the 
world,  was  entirely  confined  to  the  occurrences 
-in  their  Harem-,  where,  as  they  were  allowed  a  free 
accefs  to  each  other,  they  converfed  upon  fuch 
fubjecls  as  their  uninformed  underfiandinps 
ferved  to  furnifh  them  with.  They  are  ncvc 
fuffered  to  go  out,  but  by  an  exprefs  order  from 
the  prince  ^  and  then  only  when  removing  from 
one  place  of  residence  to  another.  I  in  general 
found  them  extremely  ignorant,  proud,  and  vain  of 
their  perfons,  even  to  a  degree  which  bordered  up 
on  childifhnefs.  Among  many  ridiculous  quef- 
tions,  they  afked  my  interpreter  if  1  could  read 
and  write-,  upon  being  anfwered  in  the  affirmative, 
they  expreifed  the  utmofl  furprife  and  admiration 
at  the  abilities  of  the  Cbriftians.  There  was  not 
one  among  them  who  could  do  either;  thefe  rudi 
ments  of  learniLg  are  indeed  only  the  lot  of  a  few 
of  their  men,  who  on  that  account  are  named 
Talbs,  or  explainers  of  the  Mahometan  law. 

F  3  Among 


70*  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Among  the  concubines  of  the  prince  there  were 
fix  female  flaves  of  the  age  of  fifteen,  who  were 
prefented  to  him  by  a  Moor  of  diftinftion.  One 
of  thefe  was  defended  from  an  Englifh  renegado, 
another  from  a  Spanlih,  and  the  othqr  four  were 
of  Moorifh  extraction. 

Where  the  more  Iblid  and  ufeful  accomplifli-* 
ments  are  lead  cultivated,  a  tafte  is  often  found  to 
prevail  for  thofe  'which  are  purely  ornamental  and 
frivolous.  Thefe  devoted  victims  of  libidnous 
pleafure  received  a  daily  lefTon  of  mufic,  by  order 
of  the  prince,  from  a  Moor  who  had  pafled  fome 
little  time  in  London  and  Italy,  where  he  had  ac 
quired  a  flight  knowledge  of  that  fcience.  I  had 
an  opportunity  of  being  prefent  at  one  of  thefe  per 
formances,  but  cannot  fay  I  received  much  amufe- 
roent,  in  a  mufical  view,  from  my  vifit.  It  was 
a  concert  vocal  and  in  A  ru  mental:  the  inftruinents 

I  upon  this  occafion  were  the  mandoline,  a 
kind  of  violin  with  only  two  ftrings,  and  the  tabor. 
The  principal  obje.ft  in  their  performance  feemed# 
to  benpife;  it  was  without  the  leaft  attention  to 
melody,  variety,  or  tafte,  and  war,  merely  draw- 
ing  out  a  wild  and  melancholy  ftrain. 

Converiation,  however,  forms  the  principal  en- 
tertaicment  in  thefe  gloomy  retirements.  When 
I  vifited  the  Harem,  I  never  found  the  women  en 
gaged  in  any  other  employment  than  that  of  con- 
verfing  on  the  ground  in  circles.  In  fa  ft,  as  all 
their  needle-work  is  performed  by  Jewefles,  and 
their  cookery,  and  the  managemet  of  their  cham-r 
bers,  by  their  (laves  and  domeffics,  uf  which  they 
have  a  proportionable  number,  according  to  the 
favour  they  are  ip  with  the  prince,  it  Js  not  eaiy 

•       for 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  IOJ 

for  them  to  find  means  of  occupying  their  time,  and 
particularly  fmce  none  of  them  are  able  to  read  or 
write.  .It  is  impoffible,  indeed,  to  refle<5l  on  the 
fituation  of  thefe  unfortunate  women  without  the 
rnoft  lively  fentiments  of  compafTion.  Excluded 
from  the  enjoyment  of  frefh  air  and  exercife,  fo 
iteceflary  for  the  fupport  of  health  and  life;  de 
prived  of  all  fociety  but  that  of  their  feliow-fuf- 
f erers,  a  fociety  to  which  moft  of  them  would  pre 
fer  folitude  itfelf ;  they  are  only  to  be  confidered 
as  the  moft  abjeft  of  (laves — flaves  to  the  vices  and 
caprice  of  a  licentious  tyrant,  who  exafts  even 
from  his  wives  themfelves  a  degree  of  fubmiffion 
and  refpeft  which  borders  upon  idolatry,  and 
which  God  and  nature  never  meant  fhould  be  paid 
to  a  mortal. 

After  the  lapfe  of  a  third  week,  there  was  a 
confiderable  amendment  in  the  prince's  complaint. 
He  began  to  diftinguifh  very  large  writing}  and 
he  aflured  me  that  he  had  written  with  his  own 
hand  a  letter  to  the  emperor,  wherein  he  informed 
him  of  the  relief  my  attendance  had  afforded  him; 
afliiring  me,  that  his  father  would  reward  me  very 
handfomely  if  I  effe&ed  a  cure. 

Our  intercourfe  was  at  this  time  improved  into 
intimacy.  He  ufed  to  fee  me  without  referve, 
«ind  often  at  a  time  when  he  had  his  women  with 
him,  which,  I  was  informed,  was  a  mark  of  con 
fidence  with  which  no  other  man  had  ever  before 
been  honoured,  lie  made  me  feel  their  pulfes, 
and  obliged  one  of  them,  who  was  remarkably 
fat  and  unwieldy,  to  be  held  on  the  floor  by  two 
of  the  others,  while  I  dropped  into  her  eye  fome 
i>f  the  fame  medicine  which  I  had  occafioa  to  ap- 

F4  piy 


104  A  TOUR  T0  MOROCCO,,  &c. 

ply  to  his.  The  violent  but  temporary  pain 
brought  on  by  this  application  produced  an  im 
moderate  fit  of  laughter  in  the  prince,  as  well  as 
in  the  other  ladies;  and  the  obje6t  of  it,  though 
in  moft  violent  pain,  to  evince  her  refpect  to  his 
royal  highnefs,  declared  it  to  be  a  very  pleafant 
ienfation. 

Upon  other  occafions  he  would  detain  me  for 
two,  and  fometimes  three  hours,  enquiring  con- 
rerning  European  cuftoms,  and  particularly  thole 
of  the  Englifh,  their  religion,  laws,  and  govern 
ment.  He  made  fome  comments  upon  what  1 
told  him,  nianifefred  an  earneft  -defire  of  informa 
tion,  and  appeared  greatly  interefled  in  the  con- 
verfation.  At  other  times,  when  he  had  been 
put  out  of  humour,  after  I  had  felt  his  pnlfe,  and 
adminiAered  to  him  the  medicines,  he  would  dif- 
raifs  me  without  aiking  me  to  fit  down,  or  even 
allowing  me  to  aik  any  further  queflions. — But 
the  curiofity  of  the  reader  is  probably  by  this  time 
excited  refpecting  the  perlon  and  character  of  this 
prince;  and  perhaps  it  cannot  be  gratified  at  a  more 
convenient  part  of  the  Narrative. 

Muley  Abfulem  is  of  the  middle  fize,  of  rather 
a  corpulent  habit,  and  about  thirty-five  years  of 
age.  His  features  are  very  much  disfigured  by 
the  great  defect  in  his  eyes;  the  cataract  having, 
entirely  obfcured  one  of  them,  and  the  other  being 
drawn  quite  on  one  fide  by  the  violence  of  the 
paralytic  affection.  Thefe  drcumfrances,  joined 
to  the  great  natural  fize  and  gjprninency  of  both 
eyes,  a  bad  fet  of  teeth,  and  a  fallow  complexion, 
will  not  allow  me  to  fay  that  the  prince  has  the 
fmalleft  pretenfions  to  the  character  of  handfbme, 

Hi* 


A  TOUR.  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  10^ 

His  drefs  was  the  fame  as  that  of  other  Moors, 
which  I  (hall  hereafter  defcribe,  except  a  filk  taffel 
to  his  turban,  which  is  in  this  country  a  diflinftive' 
mark  of  royalty.  When  I  firft  faw  him,  he  was 
covered  with  a  loofe  furtout,  made  of  red  woollen 
cloth,  and  edged  with  fur-fkin,  which  the  Moors 
term  a  Caftan.  Indeed  the  only  diftinftion  of 
drefs  in  this  country  is  in  the  good  or  bad  qualities 
of  the  materials.  I  have  feen  inftances  of  private 
Moors,  whofe  drefs  was  much  richer  than  that 
of  any  of  the  princes,  or  even  of  the  emperor  him- 
felf.  The  attendants  of  the  prince  confided  prin 
cipally  of  foldiers,  of  which  he  has  an  unlimited 
number,  pages,  who  are  generally  about  his  per- 
Ibnj  black  eunuchs,  and  a  few  black  Haves. 

The  character  of  Mnley  Abfulem  is  marked 
with  lefs  of  feverity  and  cruelty  than  that  of  the' 
greater  part  of  the  Moorifh  princes ;  it  pofTelTes 
however,  at  the  fame  time,  lefs  of  that  fagacity,. 
acutenefs,  and  activity,  which  is  fo  ne cellar y  for 
the  government  of  fo  uncivilized  a  people  as  the 
Moors.  To  be  explicit,  this  prince  is  naturally 
of  a  mild  and  indolent  difpofi.tion;  immoderately 
indulgent  to  his  paflions,  when  he  can  enjoy  them 
without  much  trouble  5  and  very  little  ambitious  ' 
of  fame. 

Till  very  lately  he  had  accuflomed  himfelf  to 
drink,  to  a  very  great  excefs,  ftrong  brandy,  that 
he  has  now  entirely  relinquifhed,  and  his  principal 
pa/lion  fmce  has  b|aj|  the  love  of  women,  which 
engrofTes  the  whol£vof  his  attention  and  time.  I 
ebferved,  however,  thal^  he  allowed  his  ladies 
much  more  indulgence  than  is  in  general  cuflomary 
among  the  Moors  5  and  I  found  that  even  in  his 
F  5  g 


I06  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C* 

prefence  they  convcrfed  among  each  other  with 
as  much  freedom  as  if  they  had  been  by  them- 
felves. 

From  the  (ketch  which  I  have  given  of  the 
prince's  charafter,  it  will  be  no  difficult  matter 
to  difcover  the  reafons  why  his  father's  willies 
for  appointing  him  his  lucceflbr  were  difappointed. 
He  was  rich,  it  is  true,  but  a  great  part  of  his 
wealth  was  fquandered  on  fenfual  gratifications  j 
and  the  total  want  of  energy  in  his  character 
prevented  his  fecuring  friends  in  a  country,  where 
cruelty  and  great  activity  are  confidered  as  the 
only  charafteriftics  of  fovereignty. 

The  advantages  of  hereditary  fucceflion  can 
only  be  feen  by  contemplating  the  ftate  of  thole 
monarchs  where  it  does  not  exill.  In  Morocco, 
where  there  is  no  regular  fixed  order  of  fuc 
ceflion,  though  the  emperor  is  indulged  in  the 
formality  of  nominating  his  fuccelTor,  yet  the 
iword  fupplies  the  place  of  right;  and  that  prince 
who  can  acquire  the  greateft  number  of  friends, 
and  consequently  the  flrongeft  army,  fucceeds 
to  the  throne.  This  eircutnftance  is  often  at 
tended  with  the  moft  fat^l  efFefts,  and  has  given 
rife  to  thofe  bloody  revolutions  which  from  one 
period  to  another  have  fhaken  and  depopulated 
the  empire  of  Morocco.  The  emperor  Sidi  Ma 
homet,  from  having  no  competitors,  enjoyed  a 
much  more  peaceful  reign  than  any  of  his  pre- 
decciTors.  How  far  his  fiu^|jjpr,  who  has  feveral 
brothers,  each  feeling  an  eq/  jjlaim  to  the  throne, 
will  be  equally  fuccefcfft^  'time "only  muft  deter- 

CHAP. 


TO  M6R6C&),  &C. 


CHAP.    VI. 

Dtfcrlption  £/*TARUDANT. — Country  ofVLED  DE  NON. 
— Markets  for  the  Sale  of  Cattle. — Extraordinary 
Amendment  in  the  Prince's  Complaint. — Great  Civility 
from  two  Moors. — Singular  Adventure. — The  Prince 
ordered  on  a  Pilgrimage  to  MECCA. — Inter cejjion  in 
Favour  of  tht  Englifk  Captives. —  UvtxfcBed  Order 
to  repair  to  MOROCCO. 

A  S  it  is  quite  unfafhionable  in  this  country  to 
•"*  go  even  to  the  i>ext  fkreet  on  foot,  and  as 
my  fituation  was  at  fome  diflance  from  that  of 
the  prince,  his  highnefs  made  me  a  prefent  of  an 
horfe,  which,  however,  I  could  not  fay  was  one 
of  the  beft  in  the  country.  But  as  I  had  once 
engaged  in  his  fervice,  I  conceived  it  my  intereft 
to  make  the  bed  of  every  fituation.  In  the  hours, 
therefore,  when  my  perfonal  attendance  on  my 
patient  was  not  demanded,  I  frequently  made  life 
of  my  Rofmante,  both  for  the  purpofe  of  exercife, 
and  fbr  the  gratification  of  my  curiofity  in  vifiting 
every  thing  which  appeared  worthy  of  infpeftion., 
The  following  are  the  principal  obfervations  which 
I  was  able  to  collect  in  the  courfe  of  my  excur- 
fions;  and  I  flatter  myfelf  they  will  ierve  at  leaft 
to  give  a  general  idea  of  the  city  where  I  reiided, 
and  its  environs. 

Tarudant,  now  ;;5tlie  capital  of  the  province  of 
Suz,  was  formerly^  while  the  empire  was  divi 
ded  into  petty  itates,  the  metropolis  of  a  kingdom. 
It  lies  in  a  fine  but  uncultivated  plain,  about  twenty 
miles  to  the  South  of  the  Atlas,  and  may  be  con-* 

fi.dere.dr 


1C8  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

fidcred  as  the  frontier  town  of  that  part  of  the 
emperor's  dominions.  The  emperor,  it  is  true, 
claims  the  fovereignty  of  the  deiert  of  Zahara, 
and  the  territory  of  Vied  de  Non.  But  his  autho 
rity  over  that  part  of  the  country  is  almoft  nominal ; 
:is  it  entirely  depends  on  the  caprice  and  inclination 
of  the  Arabs  who  inhabit  it}  and  who,  from 
their  diftant  fituation  from  the  feat  of  government, 
are  more  properly  under  the  dominion  of  their 
own  chiefs.  They  acknowledge  the  emperor  to 
be  their  fovereign,  and  the  head  of  their  church, 
and  occafionally  pay  him  tribute  as  fuch;  but 
they  pay  no  attention  whatever  to  his  particular 
orders,  and  over  their  interior  government  he  has 
not  the  leaft  contronl. 

Thefe  people  confift:  of  different  tribes  of  Arabs, 
who  live  in  tents  without  any  fixed  places  of  re- 
fidence.  They  wander  over  the  country  in  fearch 
of  plunder,  and  are  fuppofed,  on  lome  occafions, 
ro  extend  their  depredations  as  far  as  Nigritia, 
•whence  they  carry  off  Negroes.  They  profeis 
the  Mahometan  religion,  though  they  intermix 
it  with  a  great  portion  of  idolatry;  and  in  the 
qeferts,  where  no  water  can  be  procured  for  tjie 
purpofe  of  ablution,  they  fubllitute  land.  Their 
manner  of  treating  thole  unfortunate  mariners  who 
have  the  misfortune  to  be  (hip wrecked  on  their 
coaft,  I  {hall  hereafter  have  occafion  to  repre- 
lent. 

The  walls  of  Tarudant,  now,  half  in  ruins,  are 
%-ery  extenfive,  and  encloic  a  much  larger  fpace 
of  ground  than  is  occupied  by  the  buildings. 
The  houfes,  which  are  coin  poled  of  earth  and 
:<nudj  beaten  very  tight  in  a  wooden  cafe,  and 

kit. 


A.  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  IC(J 

left  to  be  dried  by  the  fun,  have  only  appartments 
on  the  ground  floor ;  and  as  each  houfe  is  fur- 
rounded  by  a  garden  and  wall,  the  place  alto 
gether  bears  a  greater  refemblance  to  a  well-peo 
pled  fpot  of  country,  or  a  collection  of  hamlets, 
than  a  town.  This  idea  is  much  increafed  by  the  .. 
number  of  lofty  palm,  or  date  trees,  which  are 
intermixed  with,  and  overlook  the  houfes,  af 
fording  altogether  a  very  rural  appearance.  The 
apartments  are  in  general  mean  and  inconvenient, 
and  principally  inhabited  by  the  lower  clafs  of 
mechanics,  as  there  are  very  few  Moors  of  dif- 
tinction  refiding  at  Tarndant.  It  is  true,  when 
the  prince  is  there,  he  brings  with  him  all  his 
attendants  and  friends,  but  they  generally  live  in 
the  caftle,  and  are  by  no  means  to  be  confidertd 
as  the  inhabitants  of  the  town. 

From  the  irregular  and  ftraggling  manner  in 
which  the  town  is  built,  it  is  impoflible  to  form  a 
conjecture  concerning  the  number  of  houfes  and 
inhabitants  it  contains.  As  its  extent,  however, 
is  considerable,  it  may  be  accounted  an  important 
and  populous  city,  when  compared  with  moil  of 
the  others  in  the  emperor's  dominions. 

The  principal  manufactures  at  Tarudant  are 
making  of  fine  Haicks,  and  the  working  of  cop 
per,  which  is  procured  in  great  plenty  from  a 
neighbouring  mine.  They  have  a  regular  market 
twice  a  week,  where  all  kinds  of  cattle  and  pro- 
vifions  are  brought  to  be  dlipofed  of.  For  the 
fale  of  horfes  and  mules,  the  proprietor  of  the  mar 
ket  employs  irtn  on  purpoie  to  ride,  and  exhibit 
the  beafts  to  the  beft  advantage,  and  afterwards 
to  put  them  np  to  public  auction.  In  thde  fales, 

if 


110  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

if  the  higheft  bidder  does  not  offer  a  price  agree 
able  to  the  owners,  they  are  at  liberty  to  refufe 
felling  them.  This  cufrom  prevents  many  of  thofe 
impofitions  in  the  fale  of  cattle,  which  too  fre 
quently  prevail  in  European  fairs  and  markets,- 
By  thus  putting  the  cattle  up  to  public  auction, 
thofe  perfons  who  have  really  good  ones  will  in 
general  get  their  full  price  for  them ;  and  thofe 
buyers,  who  from  their  ignorance  might  be  liable 
to  be  impofed  upon,  can  without  much  difficulty 
form  a  tolerable  idea  of  the  real  value  of  the  animal 
by  the  price  which  others  bid. 

The  Jewdry  is  a  miferable  place,  fituated  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  town.  The  inhabitants 
are  in  the  molt  abjeft  ftate  of  poverty  and  fub- 
jeftion,  and  when  they  enter  the  Moorifh  town 
are  obliged  to  go  barefooted.  The  cattle,  which 
is  very  extenfive,  and  fituated  halfway  between 
the  town  and  Dar  Beyda,  the  refidence  of  the 
prince,  is  inclofed  in  a  tolerably  neat  garden, 
which  was  planned  by  a  Frenchman.  It  is  di 
vided  into  three  parts;  one  for  the  prince,  which 
he  occafionally  ufes,  the  other  for  his  women, 
named  the  Harem*,  and  the  third  for  all  thofe 
\vho  are  in  the  fervice  of  the  prince. 

As  the  prince's  recovery  became  daily  obferv- 
able,  I  thought  I  might  venture  to  try  him  with 
a  large  watch  which  I  had  with  me,  to  fee  whe 
ther  he  could  point  out  the  time  of  the  day. 
In  this  he  fucceeded  very  well,  and  had  difcern- 

*  Europeans  have  in  general  an  idea,  that  the  place  al 
lotted  for  tl>e  women  to  live  in  is  named  the  Seraglio, 
This  is  quite  erroneous.  Seraglio  means  properly  a  palace, 
aod  the  women's  place  of  refidencc  is  the  Harcin. 

meat 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  If  I 

menc  enough  to  obferve,  that  it  was  an  old 
watch,  and  in  part  broken.  He  therefore  begged 
my  acceptance  of  a  very  elegant  gold  one,  re- 
quelling  of  me  to  wear  it  inftead  of  the  other. 
The  handfome  manner  in  which  his  highnefs 
made  this  prefent  gave  me  a  much  more  flattering 
idea  of  his  character  than  his  conduct  afterwards 
warranted.  But  we  are  to  recollect,  that  he  was 
then  in  the  aft  of  receiving  a  benefit  from  me ; 
that  the  journey  which  he  was  afterwards  obliged 
to  undertake,  put  it  out  of  my  power  to  render 
him  any  further  fervice  •,  and  therefore,  to  an  illi 
beral  and  uncultivated  mind,  the  motive  for  con 
tinuing  any  acts  of  generofity  or  kindnefs  no 
longer  exifled. 

In  the  courie  of  my  vifits  to  the  prince,  I  occa- 
fionally  met  with  two  Moors,  one  of  whom  had 
been  in  Italy  for  fome  time,  and  the  other  in 
England,  who  could  fpeak  a  little  of.  the  Englifh 
language.  I  mention  thefe  men  not  only  from 
motives  of  gratitude,  but  alfo  to  evince,  that  it  is 
by  improving  the  mind  and  converfmg  with  re 
fined  and  civilized  people  only,  that  we  are  able 
to  conquer  illiberal  prejudices.  From  an  impulie 
of  benevolence,  for  it  could  proceed  from  no 
other  motive,  fince  they  had  not  received  the 
fmalleft  favour  from  me,  they  in  a  (hort  time  con- 
traded  fo  warm  a  friend fliip  for  me,  that  had  I 
been  their  neareft  relation,  they  could  not  have 
ihewn  it  in  a  ftronger  manner  than  I  experienced. 

They  not  only  exprefTed  their  diflreis  at  feeing 
me  in  a  country  where  I  mufl  be  continually  fub- 
jecl  to  infult,  and  where  the  manner  of  living 
muft  be  fo  very  different  from  that  to  which  they 
knew  by  their  own  experience  I  had  been  accuf- 

tomed3 


112  A  TOUR.  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

tomed,  but  they  alfo  took  me  to  their  houfes,  in 
troduced  me  to  their  wives,  and  defired  them  to 
take  the  lame  care  of  me  as  of  their  own  fa 
mily. 

This  was  not  all •,  they  urged  me  to  allow  one 
of  them  to  go  into  forne  other  apartments,  which 
they  could  obtain  from  the  prince,  and  almoft 
infifted  upon  my  accepting  of  theirs.  To'  this 
friendly  propofal,  however,  I  could  not  accede. 
Indeed  I  was  in  daily  expectation  of  taking  poi- 
ieffion  of  the  apartments  promifed  me  by  the 
prince ;  and  had  it  been  otherwife  I  could  never 
have  intruded  ib  much  upon  their  friendship  as  to 
have  confented  to  this  requeft.  They  continually, 
however,  obliged  me  to  accept  of  tea  and  fugar, 
and  many  other  articles,  which  from  their  fear- 
city  at  Tarudant  were  very  valuable.  Of  money 
they  knew  I  was  not  in  want,  as  I  drew  upon  Mr. 
Hutchifon's  agent  for  that  article  •,  but  of  thofe 
little  rarities  which  they  frequently  lent  to  the 
prince,  I  was  always  kindly  compelled  to  take  my 
fhare.  Had  thefe  two  eftimable  perlbns  received 
all  the  advantages  of  a  liberal  education,  what 
an  ornament  would  they  have  proved  to  ibciety, 
and  of  what  extenfive  utility  to  their  nation  ! 

On  returning  home  from  one  of  my  vifits  to 
the  prince,  and  having  palled  the  gate-way,  which 
is  very  lofty,  and  leads  to  the  town,  I  was  fur- 
prized  at  hearing  a  number  of  voices,  from  above 
calling  out  very  loudly,  "  Tibib,  Tibib  !"  (Do6ror, 
d-oclof!) — On  looking  back  I  obferved  Muley 
Omar,  one  of  Sidi  Mahomet's  fons,  and  half- 
brother  to  Muley  Abiulem,  fitting  in  great  fiate 
on  the  centre  of  the  wall  over  the  gate-way, 
vdth  a  number  of  his  attendants  en  each  fide  of 

him,,, 


A  TOUR.  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  IIJ 

him.  I  immediately  rode  up  to  the  prince,  and 
found  him  a  tolerably  good  looking  young  man, 
of  about  two-and-twenty.  He  was  rather  of  a 
dark  complexion,  and  his  features  were  ftrongly 
marked  with  good-nature.  After  the  ufual  falu- 
Ution,  and  having  anfwered  his  queft'ion,  whe 
ther  I  approved  of  the  horie  his  brother  had 
given  me,  I  took  my  leave;  but  could  not  poffibly 
conceive  the  reafon  why  a  perfon  of  his  confe- 
quence  fhould  be  feated  in  fo  ftrange  a  place.  I 
had  not  ridden  far  before  I  obferved  about  an 
hundred  Moors  on  horfeback,  who  were  upon 
the  full  gallop,  and  firing  at  each  other  in  a 
ilrange  and  irregular  manner.  I  was  now  in 
formed  that  this  was  a  {ham  fight,  performed 
for  the  amufement  of  the  prince,  who  had  chofen 
the  top  of  the  gate-way  for  his  place  of  obfer- 
vation. 

As  I  found  it  an  eafier  matter  to  keep  my  mind 
employed  in  the  day-time  than  in  the  evening,  I 
accuftomed  myfelf  to  go  to  bed,  as  well  as  to 
rife,  very  early.  One  evening  I  had  not  retired  to 
reft  more  than  three  hours,  when  I  was  alarmed 
by  a  noife  which  I  at  firfl  imagined  was  occa- 
lioned  by  thieves  getting  into  the  houfe.  There 
had  been  lately  a  great  number  of  robberies  at 
T arudant  committed  by  the  Arabs,  who,  as  the 
houfes  in  general  were  conftrudted  of  nothing  but 
mud,  had  a  cuftom  of  making  a  hole  in  the  wall 
large  enough  to  admit  themfelves  through,  with 
out  occafioning  the  leaft  alarm  to  any  of  the  fa 
mily.  This  I  conceived  to  be  the  cafe,  and  fup- 
pofed  that  the  noife  I  heard  arofe  from  the  acci 
dental  falling  down  of  part  of  the  wall. 

I  im- 


I  14  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

I  immediately  got  up  and  flew  to  the  door, 
which  was  already  opened  by  my  interpreter, 
who  had  rifea  before  me,  and  there  I  obferved 
the  whole  of  my  neighbours  with  lights  in  their 
hands,  and  in  their  ihlrts  and  fhifts,  in  K  perfect 
ftate  of  confternation.  They  were  Handing  as  if 
totally  unconfcious  where  they  were,  and  without 
the  power  of  fpeech.  Indeed  the  alarm  had  oc- 
cstfioned  the  fame  apprehenfions  in  them  that  it 
had  in  me,  and  they  had  juft  advanced  as  far  as 
the  ipot  where  I  firft  faw  them,  without  having 
the  refolution  to  examine  any  farther  into  the 
caufe  of  the  noife. 

My  interpreter,  though  but  little  better  than 
the  others,  had  fummoned  up  courage  enough  to 
approach  the  fpot  whence  the  noife  arofe  ^  he 
there  found  that  one  fourth  of  the  houfe,  which 
was  built  in  a  fquare,  with  a  court  in  the  centre, 
had  entirely  fallen  down,  and  buried  in  its  ruins 
two  Jews,  who  were  fleeping  in  the  fallen  apart 
ment.  I  immediately  affiited,  and  we  foon  brought 
the  two  men  into  my  room,  where  I  examined 
them  very  particularly,  and  found  them  fpeech- 
leis — but  fpeechlels  only  from  fright.  I  muft 
confeis  this  accident,  which  had  occafioned  a 
crack  in  my  apartment  increafed  my  anxiety  to 
change  it,  as  it  was  impoffible  to  fay  how  ibon  I 
might  be  in  the  fame  predicament  with  the  two 
Jews  whom  I  and  my  interpreter  had  extricated 
from  the  ruins  •,  but  notwithstanding  all  my  im 
portunities,  I  could  not  perfuade  the  prince's  ma- 
Ibns  to  work  faft  enough  to  prove  of  any  utility. 

Among  the  many  inconveniences  which  I  ex 
perienced  at  Tarudant,  were  the  frequent  infults  I 

receive^ 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  tl5 

received  in  the  flreets,  for  which  I  could  certainly 
have  received  redress,  but  the  number  of  new 
faces  which  were  daily  appearing,  made  applica 
tions  for  it  entirely  ufeleis.  One  day  in  my  way 
to  the  prince,  I  was  infuited  by  an  ill-looking 
Moor,  who,  under  the  fanction  of  a  Sharif*, 
thought  himfelf  juftified  in  fo  doing',  and  there 
fore  in  a  very  rude  manner,  ran  his  mule  directly 
upon  me,  with  an  intention  of  either  giving  me  a 
fevere  blow,  or  of  frighting  my  horie.  I  imme 
diately  expoftulated  with  him  upon  the  impro 
priety  of  fuch  brutal  behaviour  5  upon  which  he 
told  me  I  might  go  to  the  devil,  for  he  was  a 
Sharif.  Upon  this  I  found  it  neceflary  to  explain 
to  him  that  I  was  furgeon  to  his  prince,  who  from 
being  governor  of  the  province,  and  having  me 
under  his  immediate  protection,  would  pay  very 
little  attention  to  his  being  a  Sharif,  but  would 
punish  him  as  his  conduct  merited  >  that  I  was 
then  going  to  his  highnefs,  and  as  I  was  well  ac 
quainted  with  his  n^ine,  Should  make  my  com^- 
plaint  of  him.  With  a  meannefs  proportioned  to 
hi$  pride,  this  haughty  JJharif  turned  back  his 
mule,  and  offered  smy  atonement  I  could  point 
out,  ev-ea  that  of  going  down  upon  his  knees,  if 
I  would  forgive  this  offence,  fo?  he  dreaded  the 
idea  of  his  infolence  being  made  known  to  the 
prince.  I  immediately  con  Tented  to  accept  his  fub- 
miffion,  but  ndmonifhed  him,  though  a  Sharif,  to 
be  cautious  in  future  how  he  committed  fuch  a 
breach  of  holpitality  as  to  infult  a  Granger. 

*  Sharifs  are  men  who  profefs  themfelves  to  be  the 
defcendants  of  Mahomet,  ancj  on  that  account  are  held  in 

great  efteero. 

At 


Il6  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

At  the  end  of  the  fourth  week,  the  prince  in 
formed  me  that  he  had  received  orders  from  the 
emperor  to  prepare  himfelf  to  proceed  on  a  pil 
grimage  to  Mecca,  but  that  it  was  his  intention  to 
take  me  up  to  Morocco,  where  he  would  intro 
duce  me  to  his  father,  whence  I  was  to  accom 
pany  him  to  Fez,  and  Mecquinez,  where  he  would 
give  me  a  detachment  of  foldiers  which  fhould 
conduct  me  to  Tangier.  "  By  thefe  means,"  ad 
ded  his  highnefs,  "  you  will  have  an  opportunity 
"  of  telling  your  brother  Chriftians  what  a  num- 
'*  ber  of  fine  places  you  have  feen  in  this  coun- 
ff  try."  His  departure  from  Tarudant,  however, 
was  not  to  take  place  for  fome  weeks,  fo  that 
it  would  not  interfere  with  the  plan  of  cure  which 
I  was  at  prefent  pur  filing. 

In  the  conrfe  of  our  converfation,  during  the 
different  tithes  I  vifited  the  prince,  I  repeatedly 
urged  him  to  redeem  out  of  his  captivity  Captain 
Irving,  the  matter  of  the  {hipwrecked  Guinea- 
tnan,  agreeably-  to  his  prcmife,  and  always  re 
ceived  the  ftrongeft  affurances  that  my  requefts 
would  be  complied  with  •,  but  hitherto  nothing 
had  been  done.  I  therefore  proceeded  upon  an 
other  plan,  which  as  it  operated  to  the  intereft  of 
the  prince,  I  flattered  myfelf  would  be  attended 
with  more  fuccefs.  I  told  him  that  Captain  Irving 
was  a  phyfician,  whom  I  knew  to  be  a  man  of 
great  abilities  (for  he  really  was  brought  up  to 
the  profeffion)  and  that  his  advice  was  highly 
nece/Tary  in  order  to  promote  and  facilitate  my 
plan  of  cure,  and  therefore  I  wifhed  him  to 
be  fent  for  immediately.  The  prince,  though 
fatisiied  with  my  conduct,  was  highly  pleafed 

with 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  I  I  7 

Vith  the  idea  of  novelty,  and  foon  obtained  the 
emperor's  perrniflion  to  lend  for  him  up  to  Ta- 
rudant. 

Having  no  European  with  whom  I  could  con- 
verfe,  and  reiiding  among  the  very  worft  part  of 
the  Moors,  who  harrafTed  me  at  one  time  with 
their  folicitations  for  relief,  aud  at  another  with 
their  infolence,  it  will  eallly  be  conceived  that  my 
time  was  not  fpent  in  the  moft  agreeable  manner 
poffible  at  Tarudant.  My  attendance  however  on 
on  the  prince,  and  the  apparently  great  amend 
ment  in  his  health,  ferved  iu  forne  meafure  to 
keep  up  my  fpirits,  amufe  me,  and  enable  me  to 
bear  my  fituation  with  patience. 

At  the  expiration  of  five  weeks,  during  which 
time  the  prince  expreited  the  moil  perfect  fatis- 
faclion  at  the  relief  which  I  afforded  him,  an  or 
der  came  down  from  the  emperor,  commanding 
my  immediate  prefcnce  at  Morocco.  It  may  well 
be  conceived  that  I  could  not  receive  this  order 
without  flrong  emotions  of  chagrin  and  furpriie. 
From  the  well-known  difpofition  of  theie  people, 
I  was  aware  that  had  any  accident  happened  to 
the  prince  during  my  attendance  on  him,  inch  an 
order  would  probably  have  been  the  confequence^ 
but  to  remove  me  from  my  patient,  at  a  time 
when  his  highnefs  was  continually  informing  his 
father  of  his  amendment,  was  a  -myilery  which  I 
could  not  unfold.  I  repeatedly  urged  the  prince 
to  explain  the  reafon  of  this  extraordinary  con- 
duel  in  the  court ;  but  he  was  either  unable  or 
unwilling  to  afford  me  any  information. 

Ccnfcious  how  uieieis  and  abfurd  the  attempt 
would  be  to  withfland  a  pofitive  order  of  the  em 
peror 


1 1 8  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

peror  in  a  government  fo  uncommonly  deipotic, 
and  reflecting  upon  the  favourable  ftate  of  the 
prince's  health,  after  revolving  the  queftion  again 
and  again  within  my  own  mind,  I  in  the  end  (fo 
ready  are  our  imaginations  to  flatter  us  on  every 
occnfion)  brought  myfelf  to  hope  that  the  journey 
might  prove  rather  to  my  advantage  than  other- 
wife.  How  egregiouily  deceived  I  was  in  thofe 
hopes  the  fequel  will  fufficiently  prove.  A  gold 
watch,  an  indifferent  horfe,  and  a  few  hard  dol 
lars  forced  into  my  hand  contrary  to  my  inclina 
tion,  were  the  princely  and  magnificent  rewards 
•which  I  received  for  taking  a  journey  of  five  hun 
dred  miles,  and  an  affiduous  attendance  on  an 
ungrateful  dcfpot ! 


€  II  A  P. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


CHAP.    VIL 

Journey  over  Mount  ATLAS  from  TARUDANT  to  MO 
ROCCO. — Retinae. — Dangerous  Pajfage  over  Mount 
ATLAS. — Defiription  of  Mount  ATLAS. — Natural 
Productions. — Animals. — Beautiful  Vallies. — Manners 
and  Cujloms  of  the  BREBES. — PlElurefque  Vitius  in 
the  Mountains. 

the  ^oth  of  November,  between  feven  and 
eight  in  the  morning,  I  took  my  leave  of  the 
prince,  having  previously  intreated  him  to  conti 
nue  his  courfe  of  medicines,  and  left  Tarudant, 
under  the  charge  of  an  Alcaide,  and  two  foldiers 
of  the  Negro  cavalry,  who  carried  up  the  annual 
prefent  from  the  prince  to  the  emperor,  of  fix 
horfes  and  three  boxes  of  money.  Thefe,  with 
my  interpreter,  a  Jew,  who  ferved  both  as  cook 
and  groom,  and  a  muleteer,  who  had  the  charge 
of  my  baggage,  were  my  party  for  the  journey. 

Between  twelve  and  one  at  noon  we  arrived  at 
the  foot  of  Mount  Atlas,  about  twenty  miles  from 
Tarudant,  where  we  pitched  a  very  elegant  tent, 
which  the  prince  had  procured  for  me,  adjoining 
to  fome  Moorifh  huts.  We  found  the  country 
in  our  way  hither  a  woody  and  uncultivated  plain. 

On  the  following  day  at  fix  in  the  morning 
we  {truck  the  tent,  and  immediately  began  to 
afcend  Mount  Atlas.  For  near  four  hours  we  had 
one  continued,  difficult,  and  fatiguing  afcent, 
owing  tr  nie  '  road  being  narrow,  rocky,  and 
fr  From  its  abrupt  and  angular  turnings  the 

its  diftinguifh  it  by  an  Arabic  name,  which 
fh'jnifies  the  earners  neck. 

2  In 


120  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &c. 

In  many  places  and  particularly  on  the  higher 
parts  of  the  mountain,  befides  the  inconvenience 
of  a  rocky  road  which  was  only  broad  enough  to 
allow  one  mule  with  difficulty  to  pafs,  we  had 
a  tremendous  perpendicular  precipice  on  one  fide, 
and  even  in  iome  places,  where  the  mountain 
confifted  only  of  a  narrow  ridge  of  rock,  on 
footh.  It  was  aftonifhing  to  obicrve  with  what 
eafe  and'fafety  our  mules  afcended  and  defcend- 
ed  the  rough  and  uneven  paths  over  the  moun 
tains  without  putting  us  to  the  neceffity  of  dif- 
mounting.  By  two  in  the  afternoon  we  began  to 
defcend,  and  arrived  at  a  ftnall  village,  in  the 
centre  of  which  we  pitched  the  tent. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  a  little  before 
fix,  we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  and  at  five  in 
the  evening  arrived  at  the  termination  of  the 
mountains,  where  we  flept  that  night.  The  firft 
part  of  this  day's  journey  was  a  defcent  on  a  moft 
dreadfully  fteep  and  rocky  road,  which  at  Jail 
brought  us  into  a  beautiful  vale,  between  two 
very  high  mountains,  which  immediately  opens 
into  the  plains  of  Morocco,  In  a  manner  that  is 
truly  pifturefque  and  fublime. 

I  confefs  it  would  have  gratified  me  to  have 
prolonged  my  flay  for  a  little  while  in  thefe  moun 
tains,  ib  fertile  in  objects  interefting  to  curiofhy. 
The  few  obfervations  which  I  was  able  to  collect 
in  my  paflage  over  them  I  fhall,  however,  prefent 
to  my  readers,  without  any  further  apology. 

The  Atlas  are  a  chain  of  high  mountains,  in- 
terfected*  with  deep  v allies,  which  extend  from 
the  Eaftern  to  the  Weftcrn  parts  of  Barbary,  di 
viding  it  into  two  parts  cr  feel: ions.  Thole  to  the 

Weflward 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  121 

Weft  ward,  from  their  height,  are  named  the 
Greater  Atlas,  and  thofe  to  the  Eiflward  the 
Leffer.  So  imtnenfe  is  the  height  of  thefe  moun 
tains,  and  particularly  of  thofe  in  the  neighbour 
hood  of  Morocco,  that  though  ib  far  to  the 
Southward,  their  fummits  are  perpetually  covered 
with  mow.  When  Muley  Abfulem,  the  follow 
ing  January,  pafled  over  the  fame  track  which  I 
had  palFed  in  December,  it  mowed  the  whole 
way;  and  from  Morocco  we  at  that  time  could 
not  difcover  any  part  of  the  mountains  which  was 
not  completely  white. 

The  atmofphere  near  their  fummits  is  intenfely 
cold,  to  a  degree  indeed  \vhich  is  frequently  found 
to  be  deftruftlve  to  animal  life.  I  was  well  in 
formed  that  fome  Brebes,  who  had  attempted  to 
afcend  the  higheft  part  of  the  mountain,  died  im 
mediately  on  the  fpot,  while  others  who  were 
engaged  in  the  fame  attempt  were  obliged  to  re 
turn  with  the  utmoft  precipitancy. 

As  December  was  not  the  moft  favourable  fea- 
fon  for  botanical  refearches,  I  faw  little  vegeta 
tion  on  the  mountains,  except  the  arga-tree,  on 
which  I  have  already  made  fome  remarks  when 
fpeaking  of  the  natural  productions  of  the  coun 
try  in  general ;  but  I  am  informed  from  the  beft 
authority,  that  in  the  fpring  thefe  mountains 
abound  with  an  innumerable  variety  of  curious 
plants.  Indeed  I  have  great  reafon  to  believe  the 
natural  philofopher  would  find  a  nobler  fcope  in 
this  country  for  his  enquiries  than  in  fclmoft  any 
part  of  the  globe  ;  and  that  the  knowledge  of 
medicine,  as  well  as  of  botany,  would  be  im 
proved  by  a  philofonhiral  tour  over  the  Atlas. 

G  fa 


122  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Iii  the  interior  parts  of  the  mountans  there  are, 
as  I  have  before  obferved,  numerous  iron-mines, 
and  the  Moors  have  an  opinion  that  there  are  gold 
ones  alfo;  but  the  truth  of  this  has  not  been  af- 
certained.  I  was  informed  of  feveral  volcanoes 
which  exifted  in  different  parts,  but  as  I  did  not 
fee  them,  I  only  give  this  as  a  mere  report;  though 
from  the  nature  of  things  I  cannot  help  repeating, 
that  I  think  it  highly  probable  many  curious  and 
valuable  articles  are  concealed  in  the  bowels  of 
thefe  unknown  mountains,  which  indolence  and 
want  of  emulation,  fo  ilrongly  interwoven  in  the 
difpofition  and  character  of  the  Moors,  will  not 
fuller  them  to  explore. 

With  refpecl  to  animal  productions,  Mount 
Atlas  abounds  with  lions,  tigers,  wolves,  wild 
boars,  and  monftrous  ferpents.  But  except  when 
the  neceffity  produced  by  an  extremely  fevere 
winter  drives  the  animals  into  thefe  vales  or  tracks 
of  men,  they  generally  confine  themfelves  to  the 
inoft  inacceflible  parts  of  the  mountains.  This 
remark,  however,  is  not  to  be  underftood  without 
exceptions ;  for  when  I  was  at  Tarndant  a  tiger 
was  killed  quite  clofe  to  the  town;  and  there  have 
been  many  ioftances  of  their  ranging  far  beyond 
limits  of  the  Mountains.  The  means  made  life 
of  by  the  inhabitants  to  fecure  themielves  from 
their  attacks  at  night  are,  by  making  large  and 
numerous  wood-fires,  which  the  wild  beafls  fel- 
dom  venture  to  approach.  When  I  paffed  over 
the  mountains,  I  met  with  no  animals  of  prey, 
except  forne  remarkably  large  eagles. 

On  the  upper  parts,  in  fome  places,  there  was 
nothing  to  be  feen ,  but  an  huge  mafs  of  barren 

and 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  I2g 

and  rugged  rocks,  whofe  perpendicular  and  irn- 
menfe  heights  formed  precipices,  which,  upon 
looking  uov/n,  filled  the  mind  with  inexpreffibie 
horror  •,  in  others,  we  paired  through  thick  and 
extenfive  torefls  of  the  arga-tree,  which,  though 
it  afforded  an  agreeable  variety,  being  the  only 
vegetable  on  the  mountains,  very  little  leffened  the 
general  appearance  of  bnrrennefs* 

The  vallies,  however,  prefented  us  with*  a  very 
different  fcene.  Here  we  obferved  numerous  vil 
lager,  gardens,  and  mclo/hres,  which,  though  in 
December,  were  beautifully  covered  with  verdure, 
and  filled  with  fruit-trees  of  every  defcription. 
Corn  grew  at  this  feaibn  in  the  greateft  abundance, 
intermixed  with  plantations  of  olives  and  oranges, 
and  ferved  as  the  refort  of  a  variety  of  fmging 
birds  of  every  defcription.  In  {bine  places  imall 
cafcades  of  water  iffued  from  the  rocks  and  moun*> 
tains  above,  uniting  and  forming  one  continued 
flream,  which  plentifully  watered  the  plain.  In 
fact,  this  fcene  afforded  the  mod  pleafing  relief  to 
the  mind,  after  the  fatigues  and  dangers  we  had 
experienced  in  the  higher  parts  of  the  mountains. 

The  Villages  confided  of  huts,  rudely  con- 
ftrucled  of  earth  and  mud,  and  walled  in.  They 
are  very  numerous,  and  are  inhabited  by  a  fet  of 
people  who  are  named  Brebes.  Thefe  people  dif 
fer  entirely  from  the  Arabs  and  Moors.  They 
are  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  country,  who 
at  the  time  of  the  conqueft  by  the  Arabs  fled  into 
thefe  mountains,  where  they  have  ever  fmce  con 
tinued,  and  in  a  great  meafure  maintained  their 
independence.  Each  village  is  under  the  direction 
of  a  Shaik,  who,  contrary  to  to  the  practice  in  the 
G  2  encamp- 


1  24  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

encampments  of  the  Arabs,  is  an  officer  of  their 
own  choice. 

The  Brebes  are  a  very  athletic  and  ftrong-fea- 
tured  people,  patient,  and  accuftomed  to  hard- 
/hips  and  fatigue,  and  feldom  remove  far  from 
the  fpot  where  they  refide.  They  ihave  the  fore 
part  of  the  head,  but  fuffer  their  hair  to  grow 
from  the  crown  as  far  behind  as  the  neck.  They 
wear  no  fhirt  or  drawers;  they  are  only  covered 
by  one  woollen  garment  without  fleeves,  and  belted 
round  the  middle,  though  I  have  feen  fome  few 
cover  it  with  the  haick.  Their  principal  amufe- 
rnent  is  in  the  ufe  of  their  mufkets;  they  are  in 
deed  excellent  markfmen,  and  are  very  dexterous 
in  twirling  theii  mufkets  round,  throwing  them 
very  high  in  the  air,  and  afterwards  catching 
them.  So  attached  are  they  to  thefe  inftrmnents, 
that  they  frequently  go  to  the  expence  of  fixty  or 
even  eighty  ducats,  to  ornament  them  with  fiiver 
and  ivory. 

Their  employment  confifts  principally  in  cul 
tivating  the  vallies,  looking  after  their  cattle,  and 
hunting  wild  bcafts,  the  fkins  of  which  become  a 
very  valuable  article  for  fale.  Like  the  Arabs 
they  have  their  regular  markets  for  the  difpofal 
of  cattle,  &c.-  where  they  either  receive  money  or 
ibme  other  article  in  exchange.  They  have  fallen, 
in  a  great  meaiure,  into  the  cuftoms  and  religion 
of  the  Moors,  but  they  frill  retain  their  original 
language;  and  a  Moor  is  frequently  obliged  to 
nle  an  interpreter  to  enable  him  to  converie  with 
tli  em. 

Befide"  thofe  who  rtfi -ie  in  hurs  in  the  vallies, 
Vi'hich  a,e  numerou^  there  are  alfo  others  who 

live 


A  TOCJR  TO  MOROCCO,  oCC.  12 J 

live  in  caves  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  mountains* 
fo  that  the  number  of  the  whole  muft  be  very  con- 
fid  er  able. 

From  their  fecure  fituation,  the  Brebes,  although 
inhabiting  a  confiderable  traft  within  the  bounds* 
of  the  empire,  have  frequently  proved  very  trouble- 
fome  to  the  Moorifh  monarchs,  fometimes  paying 
them  tribute,  and  at  others  refufing  it,  according 
to  the  dictates  of  their  inclination.  It  is  not 
long  fince  a  general  revolt  took  place  among  the 
Brebes,  which  obliged  the  emperor  to  fend  a 
large  army  to  fubdue  them;  but  he  fucceeded 
no  farther  than  to  oblige  them  to  difperfe,  with 
out  either  conquering  them,  or  gaining  the  point 
at  which  he  aimed,  which  was  to  compel  them 
to  the  payment  of  the  tribute  he  demanded.  The 
iituation  indeed  of  thefe  mountains  does  not  admit 
of  the  operations  of  a  large  army,  for  the  moun 
taineers,  accnflomed  to  climb  up  into  the  almoft 
"macceffible  recefTes,  foon  get  beyond  the  reach 
of  enemies  who  never  before  had  made  the  at 
tempt. 

Befide  the  Brebes,  many  Jews  refide  in  the 
vallies,  and  pofTefs  feparate  habitations  or  villages. 
Thefe  people  are  employed  in  the  trifling  mecha 
nical  occupations  which  the  Brebes  require.  In 
deed  I  believe,  there  is  no  part  of  the  world  where 
the  Jews  are  fo  completely  diffufed  over  the  face 
of  the  country,  or  where  they  are  fo  ieverely  op- 
prefled,  as  in  Barbary. 

In  one  of  the  places  where  I  (lept  in  thefe  val 
lies,  foon  after  I  got  under  my  tent,  I  was  amufed 
with  the  found  of  an  inftrument  very  much  re- 
iembling  the  bagpipe,  and  producing  a  wild  and 
G  3  melancholy 


126  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

melancholy  ftrain.  Carious  to  know  the  nature 
of  the  inftrument,  I  fent  for  the  perfon  who  was 
playing  upon  it,  and  immediately  purchafed  it. 
It  proved  to  be  made  of  a  common  cane,  about 
eight  inches  in  length,  perfeftly  hollow,  without 
any  cork  or  flop  to  it,  with  fix  holes  before,  and 
one  behind  for  the  thumb,  between  which  was  a 
narrow  brafs  plate  by  way  of  ornament;  it  had 
a  common  cord  fixed  to  it,  for  the  purpofe  of 
hanging  it  round  the  neck*  It  in  fact  altogether 
fb  well  correfponded  with  the  defcription  of  the 
pipe  which  was  ufed  by  the  antierit  fhepherds, 
that  I  have  little  doubt  of  this  defcription  reviving 
it  few  claffical  and  romantic  ideas  in  the  minds  of 
ibme  readers. 

It  is  by  no  means  a  very  eafy  matter  to  defcribe 
the  different  fenfations  which  are  experienced  in 
palling  over  thefe  wonderful  mountains.  Their 
immenfe  height,  the  dangerous  precipices,  the 
vales,  which  form  their  depth  appeared  like  fo 
inany  aby/Fes,  infpired  altogether  an  emotion  of 
a  we.  and  terror,  which  may  be  better  conceived 
than  expreiTed.  On  the  other  hand,  the  unlimited 
and  great  variety  of  profpefts  difcoverable  from 
their  fummits,  the  numerous  herd  of  goats  and 
fheep  which  were  fcrambling  over  the  almoft  per 
pendicular  cliffs,  and  the  univerfal  barrenneis  of 
the  mountains,  contrafled  with  the  beautiful  ver 
dure  of  the  vallies  immediately  below,  formed  on 
the  whole  a  fcene  fufficiently  beautiful  and  pic- 
turefque,  to  counterbalance  the  inconveniences  we 
otherwife  fuffered. 

CHAP. 


TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


CHAP.    VIII. 

at  MOROCCO.—  D&culty  of  obtaining  an  AU- 
.—  DtferiftioH  of  the  Metr0pohs.--BuM,ngs.— 
PrL  MiniJItr.-™*  Ctftk.-Th*  J^- 
y-tot,  of  th<  J«»*  ^   Barlary.-Account  of 
J/COB   A™,   t&  EafiroS*  Jtvnfl  Secretary.  _- 
tbt     ew  «  Barlary.—JeweJIes.—D.eJs. 
Intre.n  the 


Women.— T be  Emperor's  Palace 

ON  the  3d  of  December,  betwen  five  and  fix 
in  the  morning,  we  proceeded  on  our  jour- 
nev  and  foon  reached  a  fine  plain,  on  which  we 
continued  the  whole  way  to  Morocco,  where  we 
arrived  on  the  following  day  about  noon,  having 
performed  altogether  a  journey  of  about  one  hun 
dred  and  iVenty-five  miles. 

My  firft  object  on  my  arrival  was  to  iecure  my 
felf  a  convenient  place  of  refidence  in  the  Jewdry  > 
and  having  accompMied  that  to  my  fatisfadhcn,_l 
immediately  took  pofleffion  of  it,  expeftmg  anxi- 
ouQv  every  hour  to  be  fummoned  before 
pero'r      Though,  however,  his  Moonlh 
was   repeatedly  informed  of  my  arrival,,  yet 
my  great  aftonifliment  I  continued  a  whole  mont 
in  a  ftate  of  uncertainty  and  expectation,  without 
having  it  in  my  power  to  obtain  an  audieftce,  or 
to  be  informed  of  the.  caule  which  removed   me 
from  Tarudant.  , 

The  number  of  anecdotes  in  circulation  through 
the  town  to  my  prejudice,  excited  in  me  continual 
uneafmefs,  which  even  increafed  in  proportion  to 


T28  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

the  length  of  time  that  had  elapfed  fince  my  ar 
rival.  By  one  of  the  emperors  confidential  friends 
it  was  infmuated  to  me,  that  his  imperial  majefty 
had  heard  I  was  young;  that  I  was  admiaiilering 
internal  medicines  for  difeafes  of  the  eye,  which 
was  a  practice  totally  new  and  unaccountable  to 
them;  that  European  medicines  were  always  pow- 
iiil  and  violent,  and  that  if  I  had  been  fuffered  to 
attend  the  prince  much  longer,  his  conftitutioa 
would  have  been  ruined  for  ever.  Another  even 
went  fo  far  as  to  fay,  that  the  emperor  fufpecled 
me  of  having  been  employed  by  my  countrymen 
with  a  view  to  poifon  his  fon. 

After  much  perplexing  inveftigation  into  the 
truth  of  thefe  alFertions,  I  now  discovered  that  my 
journey  to  Tarudant  was  a  private  affair,  fettled 
between  the  conful  and  the  prince;  that  the  em 
peror,  who  at  that  time  was  not  upon  the  beft 
terms  with  the  Englifh  court,  and  who  had  already 
Hopped  all  communication  between  his  dominions 
and  the  garrifon  of  Gibraltar,  was  highly  difpleafed 
that  an  Engiifhman  fhould  be  introduced,  unknown 
to  him,  for  the  purpofe  of  attending  his  fon  in  a 
medical  capacity;  that  his  Mooridi  phyfician,  out 
of  pique,  had  perfuaded  the  emperor,  that  Eu 
ropean  medicines  were  too  potent  for  the  prince's 
conflitution,  and  that  in  reality  his  fon  was  in  ex 
treme  danger  while  under  my  care; — that  in  fine, 
all  thefe  arguments  weighed  ib  powerfully  with 
the  emperor,  that  he  not  only  determined  en  im 
mediately  removing  me  from  the  prince,  but  at 
the  fame  time  ordered  fome  of  my  medicines  to 
be  privately  fent  up  to  Morocco,  where  they 
were  to  undergo  a  ft  rift  examination  by  his  phy 
fician. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  129 

ficiaa.  The  caufe  of  my  not  being  honoured  with 
an  audience,  I  found  to  arife  from  a  defire  in  the. 
emperor,  to  be  thoroughly  informed  of  the  ilate 
of  the  prince's -health  before  he  faw  me,  that  ac 
cording  to  cir  cum  (lances  he  might  give  me  a 
favourable  or  a  cool  reception. 

As  feme  alleviation  to  the  uneafmefs  occafion-- 
ed  by  this  ftate  of  fufpenfe,  I  was  now  much 
more  comfortably  fituated  than  I  had  been  before 
at  Tarudant.  The  apartment  which  I  had  pro- 
cured  was  one  flory  high,  in  the  houfe  of  a  very 
refpe&able  family,  and  was  fpacious,  clean,  and 
retired.  From  a  Genoeie  gentleman  in  the  fer-. 
vice  of  the  emperor,  I  was  enabled  to  procure  a 
table,  two  chairs,  two  difhes,  a  few  plates,  fome 
knives  and  forks,  and  a  couple  of  tumblers.  la 
addition  to  this,  a  Jew  offered  his  fervices  as 
cook,  who  had  lived  fome  time  with  an  European., 
and  who  proved  an  adroit  and  ufeful  perfon. 
Provifions  of  every  kind  were  remarkably  plentiful, 
good,  and  cheap.  For  beef  and  mutton  I  paid, 
only  about  two  pence  Englidi  a  pound,  for  fine 
fowls  about  fix  pence  each,  and  pigeons  were 
frequently  fold  at  the  rate  of  three  halfpence  a 
pair.  Had  I,  in  addition  to  all  thtfe  comforts, 
been  able  to  have  procured  a  little  agreeable  fociety, 
my  iltuation  would  have  been  very  fupportablc, 
but  in  that  particular  I  fccircely  pofTejflTed  more 
advantages  than  I  had  during  my  residence  at 
Tarudant. 

The  Genoefe  gentleman,  from  whofe  houfe  I 

had  borrowed  a   part  of   my  furniture,  v/ns  at 

MogoJoro,  and   the  only   Europeans  who   were 

a   that  time  at  Morocco,  if  we  except  a  fc\y 

G  5  Spanijlx 


130  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Spanifli  artificers  in  the  emperor's  fervice,  were 
part  of  the  Englifh  leamea  who  had  been  Ship 
wrecked,  a  French  officer,  with  fome  French  Sea 
men-,  who  were  alfo  captives  from  a  fimilar  ac 
cident,  and  three  Spanifh  friars.  Out  of  thefe  I 
could  only  chufefor  my  fociety  the  French  officer 
and  the  friars. 

With  the  fir  ft,  as  I  was  acquainted  with  the 
French  language,  I  could  converfe  pretty  fluently, 
and  I  really  found  him  a  moft  agreeable  companion: 
he  had  taken  his  paiTage  on  board  a  veffel  bound 
for  the  French  fettlcments  on  the  coaft  of  Guinea, 
whither  he  was  proceeding  to  join  his  regiment, 
and  was  Shipwrecked  on  that  part  of  the  coaft  of 
Africa  which  lies  in  the  direction  of  the  Canary 
Tflands.  This  misfortune,  united  to  the  hard/hips 
which  followed  it  on  his  being  carried  into  Slavery 
by  the  wild  Arabs,  and  the  little  profpecl:  which 
then  appeared  of  his  redemption,  had  made  a 
deep  Impredion  upon  his  Spirits,  and  fubjefted  him 
to  occasional  attacks  of  hypochondria.  The  em 
peror,  it  is  true,  could  not  be  accufed  of  ill  treating 
any  of  the  captives;  on  the  contrary,  he  allowed 
them  daily  a  fmail  fum  of  money,  and  permitted 
them  to  walk  about  at  liberty.  His  detention  of 
them,  however,  in  the  country,  without  any  im 
mediate  profpecl  of  returning  home,  was  a  Sufficient: 
reaibn  for  them  ftill  to  confider  themfelves  in  no 
other  light  than  that  of  Haves. 

The  SpanHh  friars,  who  have  a  finall  convent 
in  the  Jew-dry,  and  who  were  originally  placed 
there  for  the  purpofe  of  redeeming  captives,  as 
they  diftributed  medicines  to  the  poor  gratis,  con- 
fidered  themfelves  as  being  engaged  in  the 

profeSIiQn.. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  IJT 

profeffion  with  myfelf,  and  received  me  very  hoi- 
pitably;  but  as,  from  my  not  underftanding  their 
language,  I  was  obliged  to  converfe  with  them 
by  means  of  my  interpreted,  who  fpoke  Spanifli, 
the  fociety  enjoyed  with  them  was  very  limited  in 
deed.  I  cannot  avoid  expreffing  my  concern  for 
the  fate  of  thefe  worthy  men,  who  are  diftined 
to  fpend  the  whole  of  their  lives  on  a  fpot  deititute 
of  all  civilized  fociety,  where  they  are  continually 
fubjefted  to  the  caprice  and  infolence  of  the  em- 
peior,  as  well  as  of  the  worft  part  of  his  fnbjedts. 
They  appeared  to  me  to  be  men  who  had  received 
much  information  from  reading,  as  well  as  from 
obfervation,  and  they  very  properly  employed 
their  times  in  the  duties  of  their  profeffion,  la 
the  offices  of  devotion,  and  adminiilering  medicines 
to  the  poor,  in  ftndy,  and  in  fuch  innocent  re 
creations  as  the  limited  fociety  of  Morocco  af 
fords. 

To  divert  my  thoughts  from  the  great  uneafinefs 
which  my  fituation  naturally  iofpired,  during  fo 
long  a  ftate  of  fui pence,  I  made  daily  excursions 
through  different  parts  of  Morocco;  though,  from 
the  continual  infults  which  I  experienced  when 
in  the  ftreets,  even  this  amufement  was  attended 
with  considerable  inconvenience. 

The  city  of  Morocco,  which  lies  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  to  the  North  of  Taru- 
dant,  ninety  to  the  eaft  of  Mogodore,  and  three 
hundred  and  fifty  to  the  South  of  Tangier,  is 
fituated  in  a  beautiful  valley,  formed  by  a  chain 
of  mountains  oa  the  Northern  fide,  andvthofe  of 
the  Atlas,  from  which  it  is  diftant  about  twenty 
milesjon  the  South  and  Eall,  The  country  which 

immediately. 


132  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

immediately  furrounds  it  is  a  fertile  plain,  beauti 
fully  diverfified  with  clumps  of  palm  trees  and 
fhrubs,  and  watered  by  final!  and  numerous 
ftreams,  which  deicend  from  Mount  Atlas.  The 
emperor's  out-gardens,  which  are  Ihuated  at  the 
diftance  of  about  five  miles  to  the  South  of  the 
city,  and  are  large  plantations  of  olives  walled 
in,  add  con fidcr ably  to  the  beauty  of  the  fcene. 

Morocco,  though  one  of  the  capitals  of  the 
empire — for  there  are  three,  Morocco,  Mequinez., 
and  Fez — rhas  nothing  to  recommend  it  but  its 
great  extent,  and  the  royal  palace.  It  is  inclofed 
by  remarkably  llrong  walls,  built  of  tabby,  the 
circumference  of  which  is  about  eight  miles. 
On  thefe  walls  there  are  no  guns  mounted,  but 
they  are  flanked  with  iquare  towers,  and  fur- 
rounded  by  a  wide  and  deep  ditch.  The  city  has 
a  number  of  entrances,  confifling  of  large  double 
porches  of  tabby,  in  the  Gothic  ftyle,  the  gates 
of  which  are  regularly  mut  every  night  at  certain 
hours.  As  polygamy  is  allowed  by  the  Maho 
metan  religion,  and  is  fupj"  ofed  in  fome  degree  to 
affect  population,  it  would  be  difficult  to  form 
any  computation  near  the  truth  with  reipect  to 
the  number  of  inhabitants  which  this  city  may 
contain. 

The  moiqnes,  which  are  the  only  public  build 
ings  except  the  palace,  worth  noticing  at  Moroc 
co,  are  more  numerous  than  magnificent ;  one  of 
them  is  ornamented  with  a  very  high  and  fquare 
tower,  built  of  cut  ftone,  wb'uh  is  vifible  at  a  con- 
iiderable  diflance  from  the  city. 

The  Itreets  are  very  narrow,  dirty,  and  irregu 
lar,  and  many  of  the  houics  are  uninhabited,  and 

falling 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  133 

falling  to  ruin.  Thole  which  are  decent  and 
refpeftable  in  their  appearance  are  built  of  tabby, 
and  cnclofed  in  gardens.  That  of  the  Effendi,  or 
prime  minifter,  was  among  the  beft  which  I  vifited 
in  Morocco.  This  houfe,  which  confifted  of  two 
ftories,  had  elegant  apartments  both  above  and 
below,  furnifhed  in  a  flile  far  fuperior  to  nny 
thing  1  ever  law  in  that  country.  The  court, 
into  which  the  lower  apartments  opened,  was 
very  neatly  paved  with  glazed  blue  and  white 
tiling,  and  had  in  its  centre  a  beautiful  fountain. 
The  upper  apartments  were  connected  together, 
by  a  broad  gallery,  the  bail  lift  res  of  which  were 
painted  of  different  colours.  The  hot  and  cold 
baths  were  very  large,  and  had  every  convenience 
which  art  couM  afford.  Into  the  garden,  which 
was  laid  out  in  a  tolerably  neat  ftilc,  opened  a 
room  adjoining  to  the  houfe,  which  had  a  broaa 
arched  entrance,  but  no  doer,  beautifully  orna 
mented  with  checquered  tiling;  and  at  both  ends 
of  the  apartment  the  walls  were  entirely  covered 
with  looking-glafs.  The  liooring  of  all  the  rooms 
was  covered  with  beautiful  carpeting,  the  walls 
ornamented  with  Large  and  valuable  looking- 
glafTes,  intermixed  with  watches  and  clocks  in 
glafs  cafe?.  The  ceiling  was  carved  wood-rwork, 
painted  of  different  colours,  and  the  whole  was 
in  a  fuperior  flile  of  Moorifh  grandeur.  This  and 
^a  few  others  are  the  only  decent  habitations  in 
Morocco.  The  generality  of  them  ferve,  only 
to  imprefs  the  traveller  with  the  idea  of  a  miler- 
able  and  defcrtcd  city. 

The  KicaiiFeria  is  a  particular  part  of  the  town 
where  Hulls  and  other  valuable  articles  are  ex- 
poled 


134  ^  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

pofed  to  fale.  It  con  fills  of  a  number  of  fmall 
{hops,  formed  in  the  walls  of  the  houfes,  about  a 
yard  from  the  ground,  of  fuch  a  height  within  as 
jufl  to  admit  a  man  to  fit  in  one  of  them  crofs- 
legged.  The  goods  and  drawers  are  fo  arranged 
round  him,  that  when  he  ferves  his  cuflomers, 
who  are  Handing  all  the  time  out  in  the  ftreet,  he  can 
reach  down  any  article  he  wants,  without  being 
under  the  neceffity  of  moving.  Thefe  fhops,. 
which  are  found  in  all  the  other  towns  of  the 
empire,  are  fufficient  to  afford  a  jftriking  example 
of  the  indolence  of  the  Moors. 

There  are  three  daily  markets  in  different  parts 
of  the  town  at  Morocco,  where  provifions  are 
fold,  and  two  weekly  fairs  or  markets  for  th.e  dif- 
pofal  of  cattle,  where  the  fame  cuftom  is  obferved 
as  at  Tarudant. 

The  city  is  fupplied  with  water  by  means  of 
wooden  pipes  connected  with  the  neighbouring 
ftreams,  which  empty  themfelves  into  refervoirs 
placed  for  the  purpofe  in  the  fuburbs,  and  fome 
few  in  the  centre  of  the  town. 

The  caftle  is  a  large  and  ruinous  building,  the 
outer  walls  of  which  enclofe  a  fpace  of  ground 
about  three  miles  in  circumference.  It  has  at 
mofque  built  by  Muley  Abdallah,  father  to  Sidi 
Mahomet,  on  the  top  of  which  are  three  large 
balls ;  thefe,  the  Moors  allege,  are  formed  of 
folid  gold,  but  as  no  perfon  is  permitted  to  afcend 
to  them,  we  muft  truft  to  their  word  for  the  truth 
of  this  affertion.  The  caftle  is  aimoft  a  town  of 
itfelf ;  it  contains  a  number  of  inhabitants,  who 
in  fome  department  or  other  are  in  the  iervice  of 
the  emperor,,  and  all  under  the  direction  of  a  par 
ticular 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  1 35 

ticular  Alcaide,  who  is  quite  independent  of  the 
governor  of  the  town. 

On  the  outfide  of  the  caftle,  between  the 
Moorifh  town  and  tlie  Jewdry,  are  feveral  imall, 
diftincl:  pavilions,  enclofed  in  gardens  of  orange- 
trees,  which  are  intended  as  occafional  places  of 
refidence  for  inch  of  the  emperor's  ions  or  bro 
thers  as  happen  to  be  at  Morocco.  As  they  are 
covered  with  coloured  tiling,  they  have  at  a  fmall 
diftance  rather  a  neat  appearance,  but  upon  ap 
proaching  or  entering  them,  that  effect  in  a  great 
meafure  ceaies. 

It  is  a  fmgular  circumftance,  that  in  the  imme 
diate  vicinity  of  Morocco,  for  fome  diftance  round 
the  city,  the  ground  is  totally  occupied  by  a  great 
number  of  rats,  of\a  larger  fpecies  than  any  I  had 
ever  before  feen,  which  burrow  under  ground3 
and  like  rabbits,  allow  ft  rangers  to  approach 
very  near  before  they  retire  to  their  holes.  They 
indeed  gave  me  every  idea  of  a  rabbit-warren  in 
miniature. 

The  Jews5  who  are  at  this  place  pretty  numer 
ous,  have  a  feparate  town  to  themfelves,  walled 
in,  and  under  the  charge  of  an  Alcaide,  appointed 
by  the  emperor.  It  has  two  large  gates,  which 
are  regularly  (hut  every  evening  about  nine  o'clock, 
after  which  time  no  perfon  whatever  is  permitted 
to  enter  or  go  out  of  the  Jewdry,  till  they  are 
opened  again  the  following  morning.  The  Jews 
have  a  market  of  their  own,  and,  as  at  Tarudant, 
when  they  enter  the  Moorifh  town,  caftle,  or 
palace,  they  are  always  compelled  to  be  bare 
footed.. 

I  The 


136  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

The  Jews  in  general  are  obliged  to  pay  to  the 
emperor  a  certain  annual  income,  in  proportion  to 
their  numbers,  which  is  a  confiderable  income,  in 
dependent  of  his  arbitrary  exactions.  Thofe  of  Mo 
rocco  were  exempted  by  Sidi  Mahomet  from  this 
tax,  and  in  its  room  he  compelled  them  to  take 
goods  of  him,  of  which  they  were  to  difpoie  in 
the  befl  manner  they  could,  and  pay  him  five 
times  their  value  j  by  which  means  they  were 
far  greater  fufferers  than  if  they  paid  the  annual 
tax. 

Every  part  of  the  empire  more  or  lefs  abounds 
with  Jews,  who  orignally  weie  expelled  from 
Spain  and  Portugal  and  who  fled  into  Barbary  as 
a  place  of  refuge.  Thefe  people  are  not  confined 
to  towns  but  are  fpread  over  the  whole  face  of 
the  country,  Mount  Atlas  itfelf,  as  was  before 
mentioned,  not  excepted. 

In  every  country  where  they  rcfide,  thefc  un 
fortunate  people  are  treated  as  another  clafs  of 
beings  j  but  in  no  part  of  the  world  are  they  fo 
feverely  and  undefervedly  oppreffed  as  in  Barbary, 
where  the  whole  country  depends  upon  their  in- 
duftry  and- ingenuity,  and  could  fcarcely  iiibfiit 
as  a  nation  without  their  aililtance.  They  are  the 
only  mechanics  in  this  part  of  the  world,  and 
have  the  whole  management  of  all  pecuniary  and 
commercial  matters,  except  the  collecting  of  the 
cuftoms.  They  are,  however,  intruded  in  the 
coinage  of  money,  as  I  mylelf  have  witnefTed*. 

*  Doubloons  and  hard  dollars  are  current  in  this  country : 
but  the  coins  peculiar  to  it  are,  gold  ducats^  of  the  value  of 
ten  hard  dollars,  feme  of  five,  of  cne  and  a  half,  and  of  hers 
of  only  one;  ounces,  of  the  value  of  about  five  pence  En- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  137 

The  Moors  difplay  more  humanity  to  their 
hearts  than  to  the  Jews.  I  have  feen  frequent 
inflances  where  individuals. of  this  unhappy  people 
were  beaten  io  feverely,  as  to  be  left  almoft  life- 
lefs  on  the  ground,  and  that  without  being  able 
to  obtain  the  leaft  redrefs  whatever,  as  the  ma- 
giftrates  always  aft  with  the  moft  culpable  par 
tiality  when  a  Moor  and  a  Jew  are  the  parties  in 
a  fuit.  What  they  lofe  by  oppreffion,  however, 
they  in  a  great  meafure  make  up  by  their  iuperior 
addrefs  and  fagacity,  which  frequently  enables 
them  to  over-reach  the  Moors — as  I  cannot  com 
pliment  the  Jews  of  Barbary  in  general  upon  their 
probity  and  principle. 

Jacob  Attal,  the  emperor's  Jewifli  and  favour 
ite  fecretary,  had  more  influence  with  his  royal 
mafter,  and  did  more  miichief  by  his  intrigues 
and  addrefs,  than  all  the  other  miniAers  put  to 
gether.  This  young  man  who  was  a  native  of 
Tunis,  and  who  was  tolerably  well  acquainted 
with  the  English,  Spanifh,  Italian,  French,  and 
Arabic  languages,  was  of  an  aftive  and  entepriz- 
ing  mind,  and  had  fo  well  informed  himfelf  of 
the  natural  difpofition  of  the  Moors,  and  particu 
larly  of  th.it  of  Sidi  Mahomet,  that  he  had  gained 
an  entire  afcendency  over  the  emperor.  As  he 
knew  that  an  unbounded  love  of  money  was  the 
ruling  paffion  of  his  royal  mailer,  he  not  only 

glifh  ;  and  blanquils,  of  five  farthings,  both  filver  coins; 
fluces,  which  are  of  copper,  twenty-four  being  equal  to  a 
blanquil ;  but  ounces  are  the  money  in  which  bills  are 
iifually  drawn  in  the  country.  All  the  emperor's  coins  have 
his  name  in  Arabic  (lamped  on  one  fide,  and  on  the  ether 
the  date,  and  place  at  which  they  were  coined. 

furren- 


138  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

furrendered  to  him  half  of  his  own  gains,  but 
alfo  furniftied  the  emperor  with  the  earl'ieft  and 
beft  information  concerning  thofe  who  were  in 
pofTeffion  of  wealth,  as  well  as  with  a  projeft  for 
extrafting  it  from  them.  By  thus  attacking  the 
emperor  on  the  weakeft  fide,  he'fecured  his 
frienddiip  5  but  he  iecured  it  by  means  which  ex- 
pofed  him  to  the  refentment  and  revenge  of  thou- 
fands  as  foon  as  the  emperor  died,  which  has 
been  fince  too  fatally  proved.  I  mutt,  however, 
do  this  young  man  the  juftice  to  add,  that 
throughout  the  whole  of  his  adminiftration,  though 
in  fome  inftances,  perhaps,  contrary  to  his  own 
interefl  he  mewed  an  exclufive  preference  to  the 
Englifh'  •,  and  of  this  the  Moors  in  general  were 
fo  fenfible,  that  they  gave  him  the  appellation  of 
the  Englifh  ambafTador. 

The  Jews  in  inoft  parts  of  this  empire  live  en- 
entirely  feparate  from  the  Moors  ;  and  though 
in  other  refpefts  opprefTed,  are  allowed  the  free 
exercife  of  their  religion.  Many  of  them,  how 
ever,  to  avoid  the  arbitrary  treatment  which  they 
conftantly  experience,  have  become  converts  to 
the  Mahometan  faith ;  upon  which  they  are  ad 
mitted  to  all  the  privileges  of  Moors,  though 
they  lofe  their  real  eftimation  in  the  opinion  of 
both  fefts. 

In  moft  of  the  fea-port  towns,  and  particularly 
at  Tetuan  and  Tangier,  the  Jews  have  a  tolerable 
{mattering  of  Spanifti;  but  at  Morocco,  Taru- 
dant,  and  all  the  inland  towns,  they  can  only 
fpeak  Arabic  and  a  little  Hebrew.  They  nearly 
follow  the  cuftoms  of  the  Moors,  except  in  their 
religious  ceremonies  •,  and  in  that  particular  they 

are 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  I  39 

are  by  far  more  fuperftitious  than  the  European 

Tews.  ,    t      ,      *  r 

The  Jews  of  Barbary  fhave  their  heads  dole, 
and  wear  their  beards  long-,  their  drefs  indeed, 
altogether,    differs  very  little  from  that  of  the 
Moors  (which  I  fliall  hereafter  defcribe)  except 
in  their  being  obliged  to  appear  externally  in  black. 
For  which  purpofe  they  wear  a  biack  cap,  t 
flippers,  and  inftead  of  the  haick  worn  by  the 
Moors,  fubffitute  the  Alberoce,  a  cloak  made  ot 
black  wool,  which  c@vers  the  fchole  of  the  under 
drefs.     The  Jews  are  not  permitted  to  go  out  ot 
the  country,  but  by  an  exprefs  order  from  the 
emperor ;  nor  are  they  allowed  to  wear  a  fword, 
or  ride  a  horie,  though  they  are  indulged  in  the 
ufe  of  mules.     This  arifes  from  an  opinion  pre 
valent  among  the  Moors,  that  the  horfe  is  too 
noble  an  animal  to  be  employed  in  the  fervice  ot 
fuch  infidels  as  Jews. 

The  drefs  of  the  Jewifh  women  confiits  ot  a 
fine  linen  iliirt  with  large  and  loofe  Qeeves,  which 
hang  almoft  to  the  ground ;  over  the  (hirt  is  worn 
a  caftan,  a  loofe  drefs  made  of  woollen,  cloth,  or 
velvet,  of  any  colour  reaching  as  low  as  the  hips, 
and  coveting  the  whole  of  the  body,  except  the 
neck  and  bread  which  are  left  open,  and  the 
edges  of  the  Caftan  as  worn  by  the  Jeweffes  of 
Morocco,  are  embroidered  with  gold.  In  addition 
to  thefe  is  the  Geraldito,  or  petticoats,  made  of  fine 
green  woollen  cloth,  the  edges  and  corners  of 
which  are  fometimes  embroidered  with  gold.  They 
are  fattened  by  a  broad  fafti  of  filk  and  gold, 
which  furrounds  the  waift,  and  the  ends  of  it  are 
fuffered  to  hang  dowa  behind,  in  an  eafy  manner. 


140  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

This  is  the  drefs  they  wear  in  the  houfe,  but 
when  they  go  abroad,  they  throw  over  it  the 
haick.  The  unmarried  women  wear  their  hair 
plaited  in  different  folds,  and  hanging  down  be 
hind.  They  have  a  very  graceful  and  becoming 
method  of  putting  a  wreath  of  wrought  filk 
round  the  head,  and  tying  it  behind  in  a  bow. 
This  drefs  fets  off  their  features  to  great  advan 
tage,  and  diftinguUhes  them  from  the  married 
women,  who  cover  their  heads  with  a  red  filk 
handkerchief,  which  they  tie  behind,  and  over  it 
put  a  filk  fafh  leaving  the  ends  to  hang  loofe  on 
their  backs.  None  of  the  Jewifh  women  ufe 
{lockings,  but  wear  red  flipper?,  curioufly  em 
broidered  with  gold.  They  wear  very  large  gold 
ear-rings,  at  the  lower  part  of  their  ears,  and  at 
the  upper  three  fmall  ones  fet  with  pearls  or  pre 
cious  {tones..  Their  necks  are  loaded  with  beads, 
and  their  fingers  with  fmall  gold  or  filver  rings. 
Round  each  wriifc  and  ankle  they  wear  large  foiid 
filver  bracelets ;  and  the  rich  have  gold  and  filver 
chains  fufpended  from  the  fafh  behind. 

Their  marriages  are  celebrated  with  much  fei- 
tivity  for  fome  time  previous  to  the  ceremony,  and 
the  intended  bride  with  all  her  female  relations; 
go  through  the  form  of  having  their  faces  painted 
red  and  white,  and  their  hands  and  feet  (rained 
yellow,  with  an  herb  named  henna.  A  variety 
of  figures  are  marked  out  on  them  with  a  needle, 
and  then  this  herb,  which  is  powdered  and  mixed 
with  water  into  a  pafte,  is  worked  into  the  holes 
made  by  the  needle,  and  thefe  marks  continue  on 
the  hands  and  feet  for  a  long  fpace  of  time.  Upon 
the  death  of  a  Jew  (before  and  after  burial)  all 

the 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  14* 

the  female  relations,  with  other  women  hired  for 
the  purpofe,  afTemble  in  the  room  of  the  deceafed, 
and  for  feveral  days  lament  his  lofs  by  moft 
dreadful  flirieks  and  howlings,  and  tearing  their 
cheeks  and  hair. 

The  JewefTes  of  this  empire  in  general  are  very 
beautiful  and  remarkably  fair. — They  marry  very 
young,  and  when  married,  though  they  are  not 
obliged  to  hide  their  faces  in  the  ftreet,  yet  at 
home  they  are  frequently  treated  with  the  fame 
ie  verity  as  the  Moorifti  women.  Like  the  Moors, 
the  Jewifh  men  and  women  at  Morocco  eat  fepa- 
rate ;  and  the  unmarried  women  are  not  permitted 
to  go  out  except  on  particular  occafions,  and  then 
always  with  their  faces  covered. 

A  difpofition  for  intrigue  in  the  female  fex  is 
always  found  to  accompany  tyrannical  conduct 
and  undue  reftraint  on  the  part  of  ours  •,  and  this 
d-ifpofition  is  again  made  the  excufe  For  the  con 
tinuance  of  thefe  reftraints.  Thus  the  effect  be 
comes  a  caufe,  and  when  the  women  ceafe  to  be 
the  guardians  of  their  own  honour,  they  derive 
no  credit  from  the  prefervation  of  it,  and  incur 
in  their  own  eflimation  but  Httle  difgrace  by  its 
lofs.  The  Jews  allege,  in  extenuation  of  their  fc- 
verity,  the  licentious  inclinations  and  artful  difpo- 
fitions  of  their  women,  and  that  a  fingle  a<5t  of 
criminality  in  a  daughter  would  be  an  effectual 
bar  to  her  ever  forming  a  legal  connection.  The 
fame  objection  not  being  fo  applicable  to  their 
married  women,  they  are  permitted  to  go  out 
without  reftraint.  Indeed  many  of  their  hufbands, 
from  interefled  motives,  are  too  apt  to  connive  at 
a  conduft,  which,  in  other  countries  would  in 
fallibly 


142  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

fallibly  bring  down  upon  them  well-merited  con 
tempt. 

The  palace  of  Morocco  is  an  ancient  building, 
furrounOed  by  a  fquare  wall,  the  height  of  which 
nearly  excludes  from  the  view  of  the  fpeftator 
the  other  buildings.  Its  principal  gates  are  con- 
fir  uftcd  with  Gothic  arches  compofcd  of  cut 
ftone,  which  conduft  to  leveral  open  and  fpacious 
courts  ;  through  theie  it  is  neceflary  to  pafs  be 
fore  we  reach  any  of  the  buildings.  The^e  open 
courts  were  ufed  by  Sidi  Mahomet  for  the  put- 
pofes  of  tranfafting  public  bufmefs  and  exercifing 
his  troops. 

The  habitable  part  of  the  palace  confifts  of  fe- 
veral  irregular  fquare  pavilions,  built  of  tabby, 
and  whitened  over ;  fome  of  which  communicate 
with  each  other,  others  are  diftinft  and  moft  of 
them  receive  their  names  from  the  different  towns 
of  the  empire.  The  principal  pavilion  is  named 
by  the  Moors  the  Douhar,  and  is  more  properly 
the  palace  or  feraglio  than  any  of  the  others.  It 
confifts  of  the  emperor's  place  of  rcfidence,  and 
the  Harem,  forming  altogether  a  building  of  con- 
fiderable  extent.  The  other  pavilions  are  merely 
for  the  purpofes  of  pleafure  or  bufmefs,  and  are 
quite  diftinft  from  the  Douhar. 

The  Mogodore  pavilion,  ib  named  from  the 
emperor's  partiality  to  that  town,  has  by  far  the 
faireft  claim  to  grandeur  and  magnificence.  This 
apartment  was  the  work  of  Sidi  Mahomet,  and  is 
lofty  and  fquare.  It  is  built  of  cut  ftone,  hand- 
fomely  ornamented  with  windows,  and  covered 
with  varnifhed  tiles  of  various  colours ;  and  its 
elegance  and  neatnefs,  contrafted  altogether  with 

the 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  143 

Simplicity  and  irregularity  of  the  other  buildings, 
produce  a  moft  ftriking  effeft.  In  the  infide,  be- 
fides  feveral  othe  -  apartments,  we  find  in  the  pa 
vilion  a  ipacious  room,  floored  with  blue  and 
white  checquered  tiling,  its  ceilinp  covered  with 
curioufly  carved  and  painted  wood,  and  its  ftuc- 
coed  walls  varioufly  .ornamented  with  looking- 
glafles  and  watches,  regularly  difpofed  in  glafs 
cafes.  To  this  pavilion  Sidi  Mahomet  manirdled 
an  exclufive  preference,  frequently  retiring  to  it 
both  for  the  purpofes  of  bufmefs,  and  of  re 
creation. 

The  apartments  of  the  emperor  have  in  general 
a  much  fmailer  complement  of  furniture  than 
thofe  of  the  Moors  in  the  inferior  walks  of  life. 
Handibme  carpetting,  a  matrals  on  the  ground, 
covered  with  fine  linen,  a  couch,  and  a  couple  of 
European  bedfleads,  are  the  principal  articles  they 
contain.  The  gardens  within  the  walls  of  the 
palace,  of  which  he  has  feveral,  are  very  neat ; 
they  contain  orange  and  olive  trees,  varioufly  dif 
pofed  and  arranged,  and  interfered  with  ftreams 
of  water,  fountains  and  refervoirs.  Thofe  on  the 
mitfide  are  nothing  more  than  large  tracts  of 
ground,  irregularly  planted  with  olives  ;  having 
four  fquare  walks,  and  furrounded  by  walls. 

In  introducing  the  defcription  of  the  'palace  in 
this  place,  I  have  rather  deviated  from  the  chro 
nological  feries  of  my  narrative,  as  the  events, 
which  brought  me  acquainted  with  this  f acred 
refidence  of  the  Moorifh  princes  were  poflerior  to 
my  vifiting  all  the  other  quarters  of  the  metro 
polis, 

CHAP- 


144  A  TOUR  TO  MORCCO,   &C. 


CHAP.     IT. 

Introduction  to  the  Emperor.— Converfation  with  his 
his  Moori/Jj  Majcfty. — Account  of  the  Emperor  SIDI 
MA  H  o  M  E  T— -his  Character — bis  extreme  Avarice——- 
his  miferable  Situation. — Anecdotes  relative  to  the  late 
Emperor. — Anecdotes  of  SIDI  MAHOMET — his  De 
ceit  and  Hypocrify — his  Charity.— Pufillanimous  Con 
duct  of  the  European  Powers, — Ceremonies  of  the  Court 
of  MOROCCO. — Exaftions  from  Strangers. — Account 
of  the  principal  Officers  of  S' ate. — Character  of  the  late 
Prime  Minifler. — Revenues  of  MOROCCO. — Wealth 
of  the  Empjror,  lefs  than  generally  imagined. — The 
Army  of  the  Emperar — hoiu  commanded — his  Navy. 
— Internal  Government  of  the  Empire. — Bafha<u)s. — 
Alcaides. — Ell  hackum. — Cadi. — Mode  of  adjiinifitr- 
ing  Jufticc. — Criminal  Puni/bmcnts. 

A  FTER  the  lapfe  of  a  month  without  a  prof- 
•*  •**  peel:  of  obtaining  an  audience,  my  anxiety 
was  increafed  to  a  degree  which  in  the  end.  proved 
extremely  injurious  to  my  health.  From  the  at 
tention  which  I  had  paid  to  moft  of  the  emperor's 
ininifters,  who  all  "of  them  in  their  turn  had  oo 
cafion  for  my  (ervices,  I  thought  I  had  a  right  to 
expect  fome  little  return.  With  all  that  deceit 
which  has  characterized  the  inhabitants  of  Bar- 
bary*from  the  earlieft  periods,  they  profeflcd  the 
warmeft  friendfhip  for  me.,  and  afrared  me  that 
they  would  exert  their  influence  upon  the  empe 
ror  to  perfuade  him  to  fee  me.  Among  the  num 
ber  was  a  Moor  named  Sidi  Brahim,  to  whom 
2 

*   Punica  fides, 

the 


A  T&UR  "TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  I4J 

the  prince  had  given  me  ftrong  letters  of  recommen 
dation,  and  who,  during  a  tedious  ficknefs  which 
had  prevailed  in  his  family,  had  received  from 
me  the  mofl  conftant  attention.  This  Moor  had 
directions  from  the  prince  to  introduce  me  iin^- 
mediately  upon  my  arrival  to  the  emperor,  and 
to  fhew  me  every  civility  that  was  due  to  fuch 
recommendation.  All  thefe  circumftances  I  con- 
.ceived  |ave  me  a  fufficient  right  to  expect  that 
Sidi  !?fkhim,  both  from  motives  of  duty  to  his 
prince/'^md  gratitude  to  me,  would  have  exerted 
himfelf  in  a  manner  correfpondent  to  fuch  obliga 
tions.  But  that  was  far  from  «•  being  the  cafe* 
When  his  family  was  under  my  care,  he  certainly 
did  receive  me  with  attention,  and  treated  me 
with  kindnefs;  but  when  my  advice  became  no 
longer  njecefTary,  his  friendfnip  cooled  in  propor 
tion;  and  latterly,  when  we  happened  to  meet, 
he  ic'arcely  feemed  to  recollect  me.  Upon  reflec 
tion,  what  was  I  to  expecl  from  a  man,  who  for 
•his  notorious  crimes,  though  at  that  time  in  great 
favour,  had  been  punilhed  by  his  fovereign, 
Jiaving  had  the  greate-ft  part  of  his  beard  pulled 
up  by  the  roots? 

Unfuccefsfui  nd  difappointed  through  this  chan 
nel,  I  Ixad  recourfe  to  fume  others  of  the  emperor's 
attendants,  on  whom  I  had  conferred  favours, 
and  who  had  perhaps  ftill  greater  influence  with 
the  emperor  than  even  Sidi  Brahim.  Among  this 
number  were  thr  prime  minifler,  and  one  of  the 
emperor's  principal  taibs.  Frum  thefe  officers 
I  experienced,  however,  much  the  fame  treatment 
.as  from  Sidi  Brahim;  and  had  I  not  accidentally 
"been  called  in  to -attend  the  wife  of  one  of  the  em~ 
II  pcror's 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

peror's  principal  Jews,  it  is  probable  I  might  have 
continued  in  the  fame  fame  ftate  of  anxious  un 
certainty  for  fome  weeks  longer.  As  a  return 
for  my  attendance,  the  hnfband  of  this  patient, 
agreeably  to  my  requeft,  had  addrefs  and  influence 
enough  to  perfuade  the  emperor  to  appoint  an 
audience  for  me  the  very  day  after  the  ap 
plication. 

On  the  day  appointed  for  my  reception  at  court, 
about  twelve  at  noon,  three  negro  foldiers,  with 
large  clubs  in  their  hands,  came  to  my  apart 
ments  to  efcort  me  to  the  palace ;  telling  me,  that 
they  had  directions  to  return  with  me  inftan- 
taneoufly,  and  that  they  mufl  anfwer  it  with 
their  heads,  if  they  delayed  a  moment  in  the  exe 
cution  of  their  orders.  Not  fufpedling  that  my 
Jewiih  friend,  for  fuch  I  mud  certainly  denomi 
nate  him,  could  have  effected  my  wifhes  fo  im 
mediately,  I  was  by  no  means  prepared  for  the 
audience  •,  and  I  requefled  them  to  wait  a  few 
moments,  till  I  could  enable  myfelf  to  appear  in  a 
decent  drefs  before  the  emperor.  Far,  however, 
from  acceding  to  my  requef1:,  the  foldiers  became 
impatient,  and  acquainted  me,  that  I  mufl  either 
proceed  with  them  immediately,  or  they  would 
return  and  inform  the  fultan,  that  I  had  refufed  to 
comply  with  his  orders.  I  now  found  myfelf 
under  the  neceffity  of  fetting  off,  and  we  all  ac 
tually  ran  together  to  the  palace  with  the  utmofl 
expedition.  When  we  arrived  there,  I  was  intro 
duced  to  one  of  the  matters  of  the  audience,  who 
defired  me  to  wait  on  the  outfide  of  the  palace 
till  I  was  called  for. 

From 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  147 

From  the  abrupt  and  fudden  marine;  in  which 
I  was  forced  away  by  the  foldiers,  I  expefted  to 
be  ufhered  immediately  into  the  imperial  prefence  ; 
but  fo  far  was  I  {till  from  the  confummation  of 
this  expectation,  that  I  remained  on  the  fpot 
where  they  firft  placed  me,  from  twelve  o'clock 
at  noon  till  five  in  the  evening,  revolving  in  my 
mind,  what  kind  of  a  perfon  I  (liould  find  the 
emperor,  what  reception  I  fhould  meet  with,  and 
the  anfwers  which  I  ought  to  make  to  any  queftions 
he  might  propofe.  Situated  as  I  was  with  refpe6l 
to  the  prince  whom  I  had  been  Attending,  and 
confidering  the  malicious  reports  refpefting  my 
conduct  which  had  been  circulated  about  Morocco, 
the  reader  may  well  fuppofe  that  I  was  led  to  form 
a  variety  of  conjectures,  concerning  what  was 
likely  to  be  the  refult  of  the  audience.  I  however 
placed  my  whole  confidence  in  the  prince's  re 
covery,  which  was  a  circumftance,  when  clearly 
known  to  the  emperor,.- that  mull:  undoubtedly 
operate  in  my  favour.  This  ideci  at  laft  entirely 
removed  a  number  of  uneafy  and  anxious  reflec 
tions,  which  had  occured  to  me  when  I  firft  en 
tered  the  palace;  and  by  the  time  the  mefTenger 
came  to  introduce  me  to  the  emperor  I  had  brought 
myfelf  to  be  as  calm  and  recollected  as  if  my  mind 
had  been  perfectly  at  eafe,  and  had  no  reafon  to 
be  otherwife. 

From  the  court-yard  into  which  I  was  firft  in 
troduced,  I  was  hurried  with  the  greateft  precipi 
tancy  through  two  or  three  others,  till  I  arrived 
at  the  gate  which  opened  to  the  court  where  the 
was  waiting  to  receive  me.  I  was  there 
H  2  detained 


448  A  TOCJR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

'detained  for  fome  time  by  the  mafter  of  the  au* 
dience,  owing  to  my  refufal  of  the  prefent  which 
Europeans  are  accuftomed  to  make  to  the  em 
peror  upon  being  honoured  with  an  audience. 
I  had  been  previoully  acquainted  that  no  perfon 
was  ever  permitted  to  appear  in  his  in aje fly's 
prefence,  unlefs  accompanied  by  a  handfome  pre 
fent  ;  but  I  conceived  my  fituation  to  be  in  every 
refpedt  fo  fotally  different  from  that  of  other 
Grangers  who  vifited  the  court,  that  I  told  the 
mailer  of  the  ceremonies,  if  he  perfifted  in  refuting 
me  entrance,  I  would  immediately  return  home 
again. 

The  Moor,  finding  that  I  was  determined  not 
comply  with  his  requefl,  and  knowing  that  &the 
emperor  was  purpofely  waiting  to  fee  me,  was 
afraid  to  defer  my  introduction  any  longer;  I  was 
therefore  uiliered  into  his  majefty's  prefence  very 
expeditioufly,  and  directed  to  place  myfelf  and  my 
interpreter  in  fuch  a  fituation  as  to  be  feen  with 
out  approaching  too  near  his  perfon. 

The  Moor  who  introduced  me,  upon  appearing 
in  %ht  of  the  emperor,  proilrated  himfelf  on  the 
earth,  kitted  it,  and  in  a  very  humble  manner 
exclaimed  in  Arabic,  "  May  God  preferve  the 
king!"  The  emperor  then  ordered  him  to  ap 
proach,  and  deliver  what  he  had  to  fay.  He  inform 
ed  his  majefly,  that  in  compliance  with  his  order, 
he  had  brought  before  him  the  Englifh  doftor;  after 
which,  having  made  a  very  low  bow,  he  retired, 
and  the  emperor  immediately  defired  me  and  my 
interpreter  to  advance  towards  him;  but  as  foon 
•as  we  had  got  within  ten  yards  of  the  emperor, 

two 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  I  49 

two  foldiers  came  up,  pulled  us  by  the  coat,  and 
acquainted  us  that  we  muJft  not  p relume  to  ap 
proach  any  further. 

I  found  the  fovereign  feated  in  an  European 
pofl-chaife,  placed  in  one  of  his  open  courts,  and 
drawn  by  one  mule  in  (hafts,,  having  a  man  on 
each  fide  to  guide  it.  "Behind  the  carriage  were 
foot  foldiers,  ibme  Negroes  and  others  Moors,  in 
two  divifions,  forming  together  a  half-fi^oon.  Soms 
of  thefe  foldiers  were  only  armed  with  large  clubs, 
while  others  had  mu fleets  which  they  held  dole 
to  their  bodies,  and  pointed  perpendicularly. 

The  ernperor,  after  furveying  me  miniudy  and 
with  the  greuteft  attention,  accompanied  with 
no  (mall  (hare  of  hauteur,  demanded  from  my  in 
terpreter,  in  a  very  ftern  manner,  if  I  was  the 
Chriftian  dodtor  who  had  been  attending  Muley 
Abfulem?  I  defired  him  to  anfwer,  that  I  was. 
— "  How  came  you  into  the  country  ;  and  were 
"  you  fent  by  order  of  your  own  king,  or  by 
"  whom  ?"  To  render  my  vifi't  of  more  importance, 
I  anfwered,  "  By  order  of  government."—"  Where 
"  did  you  learn  your  profeffion,  and  what  is  the 
"  name  of  the  perfon  who  taught  it  your"  I  in 
formed  his  majefty. — "  What  is  the  reafon  that 
"  the  French  furgeons  are  better  than  the  EngliftV, 
<c  and  which  do  you  think  are  bell?"  I  anfwered, 
«cThe  French  furgeons  are  very  good,  but  it 
«c  muft  certainly  be  allowed  that  the  Englifh  are 
<{  in  general  fuperior,  being  more  fcientifically 
«  educated." — The  emperor  then  oblerved,  that 
a-  French  furgeon  had  come  into  the  country,  and 
in  the  courie  of  his  practice  had  killed  ieveral 
p  -:rlons. 

H  3  His 


150  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

His  majefty  next  afked,  in  a  very  auitere  man 
ner,  "  What  was  the  reafon  I  had  forbidden  Muley 
"  Abfulem  the  nfe  of  tea?"  My  reply  was,  "  Mu- 
"  ley  Ablbiem  has  very  weak  nerves,  and  tea  is 
"injurious  to  the  nervous  fyftem." — "If  tea  is 
"  fo  unwholeibme,"  replied  his  majefty,  "  why  do 
"  the  Englifh,  drink  ib  much?"  I  anfwered,  "It 
"is  true,  they  drink  it  twice  a  day,  but  th.en 
.*'  they  do  not  make  itfo  ftrong  as  the  Moors,  and 
"  they  generally  ufe  milk  with  it,  which  leffens 
"  its  pernicious  effects.  But  the  Moors,  when 
<c  once  they  begin  to  ufe  it,  make  it  very  ftrong, 
"  drink  a  great  deal,  and  very  frequently  with- 
"  out  milk." — "  You  are  right,"  faid  the  emperor; 
"  and  I  know  it  foaietimcs  makes  their  hands 
"  {hake."  After  this  converfation,  about  a  dozen 
cliflilled  waters,  prepared  from  different  herbs, 
were  frought  for  me  to  tafle,  and  inform  the  em 
peror  what  they  were  j  which  were  hot,  and  which 
were  cold,  &c. 

His  majefly  now  condefcended  to  become  more 
familiar  and  eafy  in  his  remarks,  and  defired  me 
to  obfcrve  the  fnow  on  Mount  Atlas,  which  his 
carriage  immediately  fronted,  wi filing  to  know  if 
we  had  the  fame  in  my  country.  I  anfwered,  that 
we  frequently  had  a  great  deal  ill  the  winter  feafon, 
and  that  England  was  a  much  colder  climate  than 
Morocco.  The  emperor  obferved,  that  if  any 
perfon  attempted  to  go  to  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
he  would  die  from  excefs  of  cold.  He  then  in* 
formed  me,  that  on  the  other  fide  of  the  mountain 
was  a  very  fine,  plain,  and  fertile  country,  which 
was  named  Tafilet. 

Obferving 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  151 

Obferving  that  the  emperor  was  now  in  a  good 
humour,  I  embraced  the  oportunity  of  mention 
ing  to  him,  how  much  my  feelings  had  been  hurt 
by  the  malicious  reports  which  had  been  for  fome 
time  pail  circulating  to  my  prejudice;  that  they 
were  of  fuch  a  nature  as  to  make  me  very  defirous 
of  having  my  character  cleared  up,  by  a  proper 
examination  into  the  prefent  ftate  of  the  prince's 
health,  as  well  as  into  the  nature  of  the  medicines 
which  I  had  been  aclminiflering  to  him.  The 
emperor  in  reply  faid,  that  he  had  already  ordered 
his  Moorish  phyfician  to  examine  very  particularly 
rny  medicines  5  who  had  declared  that  he  could 
find  nothing  improper  in  them.  It  is  very  clear, 
however,  that  fome  fufpicion  rnuft  have  taken 
place  in  the  breaft  of  the  emperor,  to  have  induced 
him  to  fend  privately  for  thefe  medicines,  for 
the  purpofe  of  having  them  fo  nicely  examined; 
from  which  circumftance  I  could  not  help  feeling 
it  as  a  very  fortunate  event  for  myfelf,  that  the 
prince's  health  was  in  fo  favourable  a  ftate. 

After  a  converfation  of  fome  length,  the  heads 
of  which  I  have  endeavoured  briefly  to  ftate,  the 
evening  being  far  advanced,  the  emperor  com 
manded  one  of  his  attendants  to  conduct  me  home 
to  his  Jew,  and  d afire  him  to  take  great  care  of 
me;  adding,  that  I  was  a  good  man,  I  was  Muley 
Abfulem's  phyfician,  and  that  he  would  fend  me 
home  to  my  entire  fatisfaftion.  He  then  ordered 
his  carriage  to  drive  on. 

Confidering   myfelf  as  now  acquitted  of  the 

charges  which  had  been  infmuated  againft  me,  and 

elevated  by  th&emperor's  promifes  at  the  audience, 

I  muft  confefs  that  I  returned  home  with  a  much 

H  4  lighter 


152  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &e. 

lighter  heart  than  I  could  boafr.  of  when  I  went, 
I  now  only  waited  for  the  arrival  of  the  prince 
at  Morocco,  which  I  conceived  would  confirm 
f .lie  emperor's  good  v/ifhes  towards  me,  and  make 
my  fituation  as  agreeable  as  I  could  expect.  Such 
are  the  fanguine  hopes  with  which  we  are  apt  to 
flatter  ourfelves,  after  having  encountered  dif 
ficulties,  when  the  fmallefl  profpect  opens  of 
relief. 

In  the  evening  my  room  was  filled  with  a  num 
ber  of  the  attendants  of  the  emperor,  who  came 
to  congratulate  me  on  the  honour  I  had  received, 
by  a  light  of  their  royal  mailer;  at  the  fame  time 
to  demand  prefents,  which  on  fuch  occafions,  they 
alleged  was  a  cuftom  to  which  all  Europeans  fub- 
rnitted.  As  therefore  I  law  there  were  no  other 
means  of  relieving  myfelf  from  their  impertinent 
importunities,  I  was  obliged  in  fome  degree  to> 
comply  with  their  demands. 

I  found  the  emperor  Sidi  Mahomet  to  be  a  tall 
thin  old  man,  of  near  eighty  years  of  age,  and 
of  a  fallow  complexion.  From  a  viiage  naturally 
long,  and  a  diftortion  of  one  eye,  united  with  au 
acquired  habit  of  aufterity,  his  appearance  at  firil 
was  rather  difgufting  to  grangers ;  but  that  im- 
preilion  was  fbon  worn  off  by  the  affability  of  his 
converfation,  which  he  generally  confined  to  thofe 
iubjecls  he  thought  mofr.  adapted  to  the  perfbn 
\vith  whom  he  converted..  At  the  fame  time  he 
difplayed  a  great  defire  ^acquire  information,  as 
well  as  to  dilcover  the  abilities  of  others.  Some 
years  ago  he  fo  far  loft  t&e  ufe  of  his  feet  as  to 
difable  him  from  walking.  This  dy&greeable  effect 
•was  probably  owing  to  want  of  'uie,  and  to  his 

accuitom- 

£  W 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

accuftoming  himfelf  conftantly  to  be  either  in  his 
carriage  or  on  horfeback.  When  I  faw  him,  his 
beard  and  eye-brows,  though  before,  as  I  was 
informed,  very  dark,  had  acquired  a  perfect  white - 
neis,  and  his  voice  was  much  impaired.  His  drefs 
was  exaftly  fimilar  to  that  of  other  Moors,  differ 
ing  only  in  the  finenels  of  the  materials,  and  he 
was  only  diftinguiihed  from  his  fubjedls  by  a  lar 
ger  retinue,  riding  in  a  carriage,  or  when  on 
horfeback  having  an  umbrella  carried  before 
him. 

From  the  general  tenour  of  his  conduft  through 
out  his  reign,  and  from  his  converiation,  Sidi 
Mahomet  appears  to  have  pofTefTed  ftrong  natural 
talents,  to  which  had  a  good  education  been  united, 
he  might  have  proved  a  great  monarch.  But 
the  want  of  education,  and  the  illiberality  and  fu- 
perjftition  of  his  religion,  betrayed  him  frequently 
into  cruelty;  and  the  pofTeilion  of  arbitrary  power 
tinged  his  chara&er  with  that  intolerable  caprice 
which  has  ever  diftingmfhed  and  difgraced  the- 
Moorifh  princes.- 

Avaricious  from  his  youth,  he  gave  his  whole: 
attention  to  the  accumulation  of  wealth  j  and  it- 
was  from  that  motive  only  that  he  appeared  to> 
give  more  encouragement  to  European  merchants 
than  any  of  his  predeceflbrs.  It  is  at  the  fame^ 
time  well  known,  that  he  occalionally  opprefTed 
them  with  fuch  heavy  duties,  that  they  have  beer* 
obliged  to  fend  home  their  velTels  empty..  In  hopes, 
of  adding  ftill  more  to  his  treaiures,  Sidi  Mahomet 
became  himfelf  a  merchant,  took  up  goods  from, 
Europeans,  and  obliged  the  Jews  to  pay  him  five: 
times  their  value  for  them;  fo  that  there  was  not: 
H.  5.  afmgje; 


154  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

a  Tingle  refource  for  becoming  rich  of  which  he 
did  not  avail  himfelf.  Avaricious  to  this  excefs, 
and  naturally  of  a  very  timid  difpofition,  his  great 
object  has  been  peace:  well  aware  that  war  could 
neither  enrich  him,  nor  contribute  to  his  enjoy 
ments  in  any  refpeft. 

His  reign,  it  is  true,  has  been  diflinguifhed  by 
fewer  inftances  of  cruelty  than  that  of  any  of  his 
predecefTors,  but  he  has  certainly  exceeded  them 
all  in  the  licentioufnefs  of  his  attacks  upon  private 
property.  He  was  always  furrounded  by  people, 
who,  for  the  fake  of  rifing  into  favour,  were  at 
nil  times  ready  to  give  him  information  concern-* 
ing  any  of  his  fubjefts  who  were  rich.  It  was 
then  his  ufual  courie  of  proceeding,  to  invent 
ibme  plea  for  confining  them  in  prifon;  and  if 
that  did  not  facceed,  he  put  them  in  irons,  chain 
ed  them  down,  and  proceeded  in  a  courfe  of 
fevcrity  and  cruelty,  till  at  laft,  wearied  out  with 
punifhments  and  difgraces,  the  unfortunate  vic 
tims  furrendered  the  whole  of  their  pofleilions  \ 
which  alone  procured  them  the  enjoyment  of 
liberty,  an  oportunity  of  again  obtaining  fufiftence, 
or  perhaps  of  once  more  becoming  the  prey  of 
the  rapacious  monarch.  Such  of  his  fons  a& 
were  in  friendfhip  with  him,  were  continually 
making  him  prefents,  as  if  apprehenfive  of  the 
fame  fate 5  and  fmce  I  left  the  country  it  has  been  « 
(Irong'y  reported  that  my  patient  Mulcy  Abfu- 
lem,  who  was  the  only  fon  for  whom  the  empe 
ror  profeiTed  much  affecYion,  was  plundered  by 
his  father  of  the  greateft  part  of  his  riches  * 
which  indeed  were  reputed  to  be  very  confider- 
able. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  155 

Vices  are  never  folitary ;  and  thofe  which  are 
moft  naturally  connected  with  an  avaricious  and 
timid  difpofition,  are  jealoufy  and  fufpicion.  Con- 
fcious  how  little  he  deferved  the  affection  ©f  his 
people,  and  latterly  fenfible  of  having  totally  loft 
it,  Sidi  Mahomet  was  in  conftant  fear  of  aflafTma- 
tion  and  poifon.  In  this  flate  he  dragged  on  a 
miferable  exigence;  an  example  to  arbitrary  kings, 
and  a  living  proof  that  the  picture  exhibited  of 
the  Roman  tyrant,  by  the  farcaftic  hiftorian,  was 
not  overcharged.  He  feldom  ftirred  out  of  his 
palace,  unleis  accompanied  by  a  numerous  band 
of  foldiers,  and  even  of  thefe  he  had  always  his 
fufpicions.  At  night  he  had  conftantly  fix  blood 
hounds  in  his  chamber,  and  relying  more  on  the 
fidelity  of  the  irrational  creation  than  on  man, 
he  thought  thefe  a  more  certain  guard  than  his 
foldiers.  His  victuals  were  drefled  and  tafted  in 
his  prefence;  and  at  dinner,  though  no  perfbn 
was  permitted  to  eat  immediately  with  him,  yet 
he  always  had  fome  of  his  fons  and  miniflers  in 
the  fame  apartment,  who  were  helped  out  of  his 
difh.  To  complete  the  mifery  of  this  unfortunate 
old  man,  he  lived  under  the  continual  apprehenfion 
of  being  conquered  by  his  eld  eft  ion  Muley 
Yazid,  the  late  emperor,  who,  in  confequence 
of  fome  ill  treatment  received  from  his  father, 
retired  fecretly  from  court,  and  took  refuge  in  a 
fanctuary  near,  Tetuan. 

This  prince,  whole  grandmother  was  an  Englifh, 
woman,  had  acquired  the  univerial  efleem  of  the 
whole  country  by  his  generous  conduct  and  his. 
great  abilities;  and  though  at  that  time  in  a  ftate 
of  poverty,  and  with  only  four  attendants  about 

him, 


156  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

him,  fuch  was  his  influence  that  he  had  only  to 
ftep  forward,  and  iay  he  wanted  money  and 
troops,  and  he  would  fhortly  have  been  at  the 
head  of  an  army,  that  muft  at  any  time  have 
entirely  overwhelmed  the  late  government  of 
Morocco.  From  motives  of  duty,  and  perhaps 
of  policy,  this  however  was  a  Hep  he  did  not 
•wirfi  to  take,  confcious  that  his  father  could  not 
long  furvive,  and  that  upon  his  death  he  was 
certain  of  the  fucceffion.  The  emperor,  notwith- 
ftanding,  was  ft  ill  unable  to  fubdue  his  appre- 
henfions;  and  when  I  was  at  Morocco  fent  an 
army  of  five  thouiand  blacks,  with  an  order  to 
violate  the  fan&uary,  and  carry  off  the  prince* 
This  order  was  not  obeyed,  for  the  chief  could 
not  place  fufficient  confidence  in  his  troops;  and 
the  prince  continued  quiet  in  the  faftuary  till  his 
father's  deceale. 

To  evince  the  policy,  as  well  as  the  fagacity 
of  Muley  Yazid,  I  muft  beg  leave  to  relate  an 
anecdote,  which  occurred  a  fhort  time  previous 
to  that  period.  The  people  who  have  the  care 
of  the  fan 61  uar y  received  pofitive  orders  from  the 
emperor  $0  expel  the  prince  by  force;  which,  if 
they  failed  in  doing,  he  allured  them  he  would 
fend  and  put  every  man,  woman,  and  child  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  fan6luary  to  the  fword. 
The  people,  though  well  difpofed  to  the  prince, 
intimidated  by  theie  orders,  related  faithfully  to 
him  the  emperor's  intentions,  and  informed  him 
that,  as  their  lives  were  at  ftake,  they  expefted 
him  to  remove,  at  the  fame  time  recommending- 
him  to  another  fanftuary  at  no  great  diftance, 
•where  he.  could  equally  take  refuge.  The  prince,. 

who/ 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C.  IJ7 

who  is  one  of  the  beft  horfemen  in  the  country, 
and  who  had  a  horfe  of  which  he  had  the  en 
tire  command,  immediately  promifed  them  to 
depart,  and  mounted  his  horfe  for  the  purpofe. 
But  what  was  their  furprife,  when  they  found 
trie  horfe  would  not  ftir  from  the  fpot,  notwith- 
flanding  the  apparently  free  ufeof  whip  andfpur? 
Upon  this  the  prince  exclaimed,  "  You  fee  plain- 
"  ly  that  it  is  God's  v/ill  I  fhould  continue  here, 
cc  and  therefore  no  other  power  fhall  ever  drive 
"  me  out."  This  had  fuch  an  effect  upon  the 
fuperffitious  multitude,  that  they  preferred  rifking 
the  refentment  of  the  emperor,  to  the  violation 
of  what,  in  their  eftimation,  was  fo  apparently 
the  will  or  God. 

With  refpect  to  the  other  features  of  the  em*- 
peror's  character,  his  principal  vices  appear  to 
have  refulted  from  that  great  corrupter  of  the 
human  heart,  arbitrary  power:  for  he  was  the 
moft  arbitrary  of  monarchs,  having  at  his  abfolute 
difpofal  the  lives  and  properties  of  all  his  fubjects. 
In  fuch  circumftances,  what  man  can  be  trufted, 
nay,  who  would  truft  himfelf  ?  In  fuch  circum- 
ilances,  can  we  wonder,  when  we  obferve  the 
occafional  indulgence  of  intemperate  revenge? 
Among  thefe  we  are  to  account  his  treatment  of 
an  unfortunate  Jew  who  had  imprudently  written 
fomething  to  his  prejudice,  and  for  this  flight  of 
fence  was  quartered  alive,  cut  to  pieces>  and  his 
flefh  afterwards  given  to  the  dogs. 

Upon  another  occafion,  a  fimilar  difpofition 
was  manifeiled  by  Sidi  Mahomet.  A  Moor  of 
fome  confequencc,  and  very  opulent,  gave  a  grand 
entertainment  on  the  marriage  of  one  of  his  fons^ 

The 


158  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

The  emperor,  \vho  happened  to  be  in  the  neigh 
bourhood,  and  who  well  knew  that  magnificence 
was  a  finking  proof  of  wealth,  was  determined 
to  be  preient  at  the  feftival,  in  order  that  he 
might  more  fully  inform  himfelf  of  the  circum- 
ftances  of  the  Moor.  For  this  purpofe  he  dii- 
guifed  himfelf  in  a  common  drefs,  and  entered  the 
houfe  in  the  midft  of  all  the  jollity,  and  perhaps 
the  licentioufnefs  of  the  entertainment.  The  mailer 
of  the  ceremonies  obferving  a  perfon  of  mean  ap 
pearance  intrude  himfelf  into  the  room  fo  abrupt 
ly,  ordered  him  out  •,  and  upon  the  refufal  of  the 
flranger,  he  gave  him  a  kick,  and  pufhed  him  by 
violence  out  of  the  houfe.  For  a  jfhort  fpace  of  time 
after  this  occurrence  the  whole  affair  patted  with 
out  notice,  and  probably  had  efcaped  the  memory 
of  moft,  and  it  was  a  matter  of  the  utrnoft  furprize 
to  the  mafler  of  the  houfe,  to  receive  an  order  com 
manding  him  immediately  to  repair  to  Morocco. 
Upon  being  introduced  to  the  emperor,  he  was 
afked  if  he  recollected  the  circumjftances  which 
have  juft  been  related,  to  which  he  replied  in  the 
affirmative;  "  Know  then,"  fays  the  emperor, 
"  I  was  that  Moor  whom  you  treated  thus  con- 
"  tumelioufly ;  and  to  convince  you  that  I  have 
"  not  forgot  it,  that  foot  and  that  hand  which 
"  infulted  me  fhall  perifh." — I  have  feea  this  un 
fortunate  viftirn  of  tyranny  walking  about  the 
ftreets  with  one  leg  and  an  arm. 

The  emperor  was  as  ready  to  revenge  the  ima 
ginary  or  the  real  injuries  of  his  fubjefts.  To 
elucidate  this  afTertion  ;  an  Englifh  and  French 
gentleman  were  amufmg  themfelves  by  the  diver- 
fion  of  courfing,  in  the  vicinity  of  Mogodore, 

wheu 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  159 

when  one  of  their  dogs  unfortunately  attacked 
the  calf  of  a  Moor.  This  accident  foon  brought 
out  the  villagers,  who  immediately  {hot  the  dog, 
and  entered  into  a  very  ferious  quarrel  with  the 
Chriltians,  which  terminated  in  a  general  conteft. 
The  women  of  the  village  now  thought  it  a  pro 
per  occafion  for  their  interference  •,  and  among 
their  number  was  one,  who  from  old  age  had  loft 
all  her  teeth  except  two,  and  thefe  were  fo  loofe 
that  they  could  be  with  difficulty  retained  \  and 
another,  who  had  upon  a  former  occafion  frac 
tured  her  arm,  the  bone  of  which  had  never  been 
reduced  or  united.  In  the  courfe  of  the  difpute, 
thefe  two  women  were  unintentionally  thrown 
down,  and  by  this  accident  the  old  lady  loft  both 
her  teeth,  while  the  other  infifted  that  the  Chrif- 
tians  had  been  the  occafion  of  frafturing  her  arm. 
To  be  brief,  the  Chriftians  were  overpowered  by 
numbers,  and  were  obliged  to  retire  to  Mogodore, 
where  they  immediately  made  a  complaint  to  the 
governor  of  the  infults  they  had  received  from 
the  Moors,  who  in  their  turn  alfo  appeared  before 
him  with  a  complaint  againft  the  Chriftians.  The 
whole  being  referred  to  the  emperor,  both  parties 
were  ordered  up  to  court,  with  the  view  of  giving 
the  matter  an  impartial  hearing,  and  of  adminif- 
tering  juftice  accordingly!'  It  is  hardly  neceffary 
to  intimate,  that  in  this  uncivilized  country,  and 
with  a  man  of  Sidi  Mahomet's  prejudices,  the 
Moorifh  evidence  would  be  certain  of  a  favour 
able  hearing.  The  circumftances  indeed  of  one 
woman  lofing  her  teeth,  and  another  having  her 
arm  fractured,  appeared  in  the  eyes  of  the  empe- 
r^or  fo  plaufiblej  that  upon  their  being  made  known., 

to 


l6o  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

to  him,  without  hefitation  he  ordered  the  Chrif- 
tians  to  be  put  in  irons^  and  confined  pill  he  Ihonld 
determine  upon  the  punilhment  whi£h  fuch  appa 
rent  crimes  merited.  For  this-ptirpofe,  the  Mufti, 
or  high  priefl  was  defired  to  refer  the  matter  to 
the  Koran,  with  a  view  of  punifhing  the  delin 
quents  according  to  its  dictates.  The  prieft  foon 
found  out  a  pafTage,  where  it  fpecies  an  eye  for 
an  eye  and  a  tooth  for  a  tooth.  The  Englifh  gen 
tleman,  whom  the  old  lady  fixed  upon  for  the 
perfon  who  had  been  the  occafion  of  her  misfor 
tune,  was  therefore  direfted  to  lofe  two  of  his 
teeth,  which  punifhment  was  immediately  put  in 
execution  in  the  prefence  of  the  emperor ;  while 
his  French  companion,  as  they  could  not  find  out 
a  punifhment  in  the  Koran  for  breaking  an  arm, 
received  the  baftinado  in  a  manner  which  dif- 
graced  humanity  and  the  law  of  nations  y  the  pri- 
ioners  were  then  fet  at  liberty. 

This  circumftance  brings  to  my  mind  how  nar 
rowly  I  efcaped  falling  into  a  fimilar  predicament 
in  the  courfe  of  my  detention  at  Morocco.  One 
day,  within  the  walls  of  the  palace,  I  was  grofsly 
jnfulted  by  a  Moor,  at  a  time  when,  from  the 
great  anxiety  I  was  under,  my  temper  was  much 
difturbed,  and  which  fo  far  had  put  me  off  my 
guard  as  to  induce  me  to  give  the  offender  a  blow 
on  the  face.  Upon  this  a  Mooriih.  foldier,  who,, 
unobferved  by  myfelf,  was  fitting  behind  me  in  a. 
corner  of  the  wall,  exclaimed  in  Arabic  in  a  very 
auftere  tone,  "  Chriftian,  how  dare  you  ftrike 
that  Moor  ?"  A  full  confcioufnefs  of  having  afted 
imprudently,  and  a  recollection  of  the  emperor's 
former  treatment  of  Chriftians  under  fimilar  cir- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  1 6*1 

cumftances,  now  preffed  upon  my  mind  with  fuch 
force,  that  at.  fir  it  I  was  at  a  lofs  what  part  I 
ihould  take  to  extricate  myfelf  from  this  difficul 
ty.  To  walk  away,  would  be  an  acknowledg 
ment  of  guilt,  and  would  afford  the  Moor  a 
greater  plea  for  making  a  complaint ;  I  therefore 
determined  upon  returning  back  and  expofbalating 
with  the  man,  by  telling  him  that  I  had  been 
grofsly  infulted,  and  muft  therefore  be  tinder  the 
neceffity  of  making  immediate  application  to  the 
governor  of  the  town  to  have  the  offender  feverely 
punilhed  for  attacking  one,  who,  from  the  nature 
of  his  employment,  was  in  the  emperor's  fervice, 
and  confequently  under  his  particular  protection. 
In  reply,  the  Moor  faid,  that  had  I  kicked  him, 
horfewhipped  him,  or  puniihed  him  in  any  other 
way  but  that  of  flapping  his  face,  he  fhould  have 
over-looked  it,  but  a  blow  on  the  face  was  in  their 
law  a  crime  of  fo  ierious  a  nature,  that  he  thought 
it  his  duty  to  acquaint  the  emperor  of  it,  who 
had  hitherto  never  pardoned  any  perfon  convicted 
of  fo  heinous  an  offence,  but  had  always  cut  off 
that  hand  of  the  Moor  which  had  offered  the  in- 
fult ;  what  then  could  a  ChrifHan  expect  from 
him  ?  From  the  knowledge  I  had  already  learn 
ed  of  the  Moorifa  character,  I  frill  thought 
it  necelTary  to  continue  in  the  fame  ftrain,  by  in 
forming  the  Moor,  that  he  might  act  as  he 
thought  proper,  but  that  I  fhould  frill  fulfil  my 
refolution,  and  had  no  doubt  but  it  would  have 
its  proper  effect.  The  man  now  began  to  foften, 
and  faid,  that  as  I  was  in  the  emperor's  fervice, 
he  would  for  this  time  look  over  the  offence,  but 
cautioned  me  to  be  careful  how  I  acted  in  future. 

Upon 


1(52  A  TOUR   TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Upon  confidering  every  circumftance  I  thought  it 
moft  prudent  to  let  the  matter  drop  here ;  and  I 
acknowledge  that  this  affair  proved  a  mfficient 
lefTon  to  me  to  avoid  in  future  entering  into  fimi- 
lar  contefts  with  the  Moors. 

Sidi  Mahomet  was  fufficiently  confcions  of  his 
own  power  and  dignity,  and  kept  every  perfon 
at  the  moft  abject  diilance-,  no  perfon  daring  to 
approach  or  fpeak  to  him  without  his  permiffion. 
Senfible  alfo  of  the  exceffes  into  which  he  might 
be  betrayed  by  ungoverned  palHon,  if  at  any  time 
he  found  his  temper  difcompofed,  he  mdifcrimi- 
nately  ordered  every  perfon  out  of  his  fight.  It 
may  eafily  be  conceived  that  the  monarch  had  no 
difficulty  in  fecuring  obedience  to  this  mandate, 
fmce  all  were  fenfible  that  to  have  continued  in 
his  prefence  would  have  been  highly  dangerous, 
if  not  fatal. 

The  only  perfons  who  poffeiTed  any  confider- 
able  influence  over  the  emperor  were  his  women; 
and  it  was  through  that  channel  that  the  moft 
fuccefsful  bufmefs  was  tranfacted  with  him. 

Thus  far  for  the  vices  of  arbitrary  power. 
But  deceit,  hypocrify  and  falfehood  were  qualities 
which  could  not  be  immediately  afcribed  to  that 
fource,  unlefs  we  confider  them  as  the  neceflary 
effects  of  an  education  in  a  defpotic  court.  As  a 
cloak  to  actions  which  he  knew  muft  excite  difap- 
probation  and  difguft,  Sidi  Mahomet  attempted 
to  perfuade  his  fubjects  that  they  proceeded  from 
motives  of  religion  and  juftice;  and  to  give  them 
a  greater  fanftion  he  enrolled  himfelf  in  the  frater 
nity  of  faints,  and  paid  a  ftrict  attention  to  all  the 
fuperftitiops  and  forms  peculiar  to  his  religion. 

This 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  l6% 

This  condufl  anfwered  well  with  the  ignorant 
part  of  the  community,  but  the  more  enlightened 
could  not  but  obferve  that  he  attended  more  to 
the  ceremonial  of  his  religion  than  to  its  principles, 
which  he  made  no  fcruple  of  violating  whenever 
it  fiiited  his  convenience.  What  he  promifed  one 
day  he  would  refufe  the  next,  fo  that  no  depen- 
dance  was  ever  placed  upon  his  word.  Ad 
ded  to  thefe,  h?  pofTefTed  a  large  portion  of  that 
low  cunning  which  is  common  to  perfons  whofe 
rninds  and  feritiments  have  not  been  elevated  or 
refined  by  literature  or  fcience.  He  perhaps,  in 
deed,  found  this  quality  not  without  its  ufes  in 
governing  fuch  a  people  as  the  Moors;  and  no 
man  underflopd  their  character  and  difpofition 
better  than  he  did.  He  was  aware  that  refpeft 
is  frequently  deflroyed  by  unfeafonable  familiari-. 
ties,  and  therefore  kept  at  a  moil:  {lately  diftance 
from  his  fubje&s,  and  but  feldom  appeared  among 
them.  By  thefe  means  his  confequence  was 
p refer ved,  and  his  conduct,  and  his  talents  were, 
involved  in  that  impenetrable  and  awful  mift 
that  furrounds  the  feraglios  of  Eaflern  mo 
narch  s. 

The  few  rebellions  which  occurred  during  his 
long  reign,  proved  deciflvely  that  he  knew  how 
to  govern  his  fubjefts.  Whenever  a  difpofition 
for  revolt  prevailed  in  any  of  the  provinces,  a 
body  of  troops  was  immediately  difpatched  to 
plunder  the  whole  of  the  diicontented  province, 
and  to  feize  the  infurgents,  who  were  immediate 
ly  conducted  to  court,  and  punifhed  according 
to  the  magnitude  of  their  refpedlive  offences. 
Some  were  put  to  death3  others  were  deprived 

of 


164  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   SfC. 

of  their  hands  and  legs;  and  for  lefTer  crimes 
the  difcontented  parties  underwent  the  baffcinado. 
This  monarch  employed  perfons  in  different  dif- 
tricts  to  watch  the  motions  of  his  fbbjects,  and 
to  inform  him  of  every  fymptom  of  revolt,  and 
thus,  by  a  well-timed  interference,  he  was  enabled 
to  crulh  rebellion  in  the  bud. 

In  his  conduct  towards  foreign  powers,  Sicli 
Mahomet  diicovered  the  fame  difregard  to  truth 
and  juflice,  the  lame  adroitneis  and  cunning.  He 
readily  promifed  to  grant  every  demand,  provide^ 
he  was  to  be  well  paid  for  the  ccnceiTion.  But 
it  muft  have  been  valuable  prefents  indeed  which 
v;ould  induce  him  to  perform  his  promlfe*  He 
protracted  negotiations  in  order  that  he  and  his 
miniilers  might  be  enriched  by  them'/  but  al 
ways  as  much  as  poflible  avoided  bringing  them 
to  a  final  deternination,  by  either  granting  or  re- 
fufing  a  favour. 

If  foreign  powers  omitted  to  pay  him  the  tri 
bute  he  demanded,  he  immediately  threatened 
in  the  fevered  manner  to  commence  rloftilities; 
yet  in  this  he  was  never  in  earneft,  for  he  was 
more  afraid  of  his  enemies  than  they  had  reafon 
to  be  of  him.  When  he  found  they  were  not  dif- 
pofed  to  contend  the  matter  with  him,  he  increafed 
his  demands  accordingly. 

In  order  to  enhance  his  confequence,  he  en 
deavoured  to  perfuade  his  fubjects  that  he  was 
remarkably  flailed  in  matters  of  which  they  were 
entirely  ignorant.  To  prelerve  an  appearance  of 
ability,  when  he  was  vifited  by  Europeans,  if  the 
flranger  was  a  merchant,  the  fubject  of  conver- 
fation  was  on  manufactures,  foreign  commerce* 

&c. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  l6$ 

Sec.  If  he  was  a  military  officer,  fortifications, 
attacks,  Sec.  were  the  topics ;  and  if  a  feafaring 
perfon,  he  would  then  fcratch  on  a  piece  of  paper 
a  plan  of  his  coafls  and  harbours.  Though  he 
rarely  advanced  any  thing  to  the  purpofe  on  thefe 
fubjefts;  yet  as  foreigners  who  vifited  the  court 
generally  appeared  there  with  a  view  of  obtaining 
fome  favour,  and  as  it  was  never  cuflomary  for 
any  perfon  to  contradift  the  emperor,  they  al 
ways  coincided  with  his  opinions,  and  pretended 
at  leaft  to  admire  his  exteniive  abilities.  This 
fully  anfwered  the  intention  of  the  emperor ;  it 
induced  his  fubjedts  to  form  a  good  opinion  of  his 
underftanding,  and  he  often  collected  fome  real 
information  from  the  anfwers  which  his  vifitors 
returned  to  his  queftions. 

Sidi  Mahomet  paid  more  attention  to  military 
affairs  than  to  his  navy,  though  if  any  power  re- 
f ufed  to  repair  a  frigate,  it  was  a  fufficient  induce 
ment  for  him  to  threaten  a  war.  He  thought 
liimfelf  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  art  of  for 
tification,  but  his  knowledge  of  it  extended  no 
farther  than  a  few  loofe  hints  which  he  had  re~ 
ceived  upon  the  fubjedt  from  thofe  Europeans 
TV  ho  had  vifited  the  court. 

In  his  court  and  perfonal  appearance,  Sidi  Ma 
homet  affefted  great  fimplicity  of  manners,  not 
allowing  even  his  own  fons  to  appear  in  his  pre- 
fence  except  in  a  plain  Moorifh  clrefs.  They  then 
were  obliged  to  uncover  their  cap  or  turban  (for 
a  Moor  never  pulls  off  either  except  when  going 
to.  bed)  and  to  wear  inftead  of  the  Haick  the 
Sulam,  which  is  a  cloak  made  of  white  or  bine 
woollen  cloth,  the  front  parts  of  which  they  were 
'obliged  to  throw  over  thei-r  fhouldcrs,  and  as 

obliged 


1 66  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Toon  as  they  faw  the'  emperor,  to  prof! rate  their 
heads  to  the  ground,  and  kifs  it,  exclaiming,  "  God 
"  fave  the  king!"  He  then  ordered  them  to  ap 
proach,  and  fpeak  to  him. 

Though  in  general  of  a  flately  demeanour, 
he  was  fometimes  known  to  unbend,  and  occafion- 
ally  took  pleafure  in  converfmg  with  his  courtiers 
on  various  fubjeftsj  but  they  were  permitted  to 
advance  no  opinion  of  their  own,  but  merely  to 
approve  of  what  he  faid.  He  frequently  talked 
upon  the  fubjeft  of  religion,  and  confidered  him- 
felf  as  well  informed  in  that  particular.  He 
fometimes  endeavoured  to  explain  to  them  dif 
ferent  parts  of  the  Koran,  pointing  out  its  beau 
ties,  and  imprefling  on  the  minds  of  his  auditors 
the  moft  intolerant  prejudices  againfl  Chriflians. 

The  mixture  of  good*  and  evil  fo  incident  to 
all  human  characters,  was  alfo  to  be  found  in 
Sidi  Mahomet.  Notwithftanding  what  has  been 
remarked  of  his  avarice,  his  duplicity,  and  abfurd 
pretenfions  to  religion,  there  are  fome  circum- 
jftances  which  ferve  to  lefTen  our  indignation,  and 
thefe  it  is  only  conflftent  with  juflice  and  candour 
to  ftate.  It  is  generally  allowed,  that  though 
he  mufl  necefTarily  fnfFer  in  a  comparifon  with 
the  princes  of  free  and  civilized  nations,  yet  when 
compared  with  his  defpotic  predeceflbrs,  his  cha- 
rafter  greatly  rifes  in  the  fc  ale  of  humanity.  He 
was  feldom  or  never  wontonly  cruel.  He  was 
certainly  fometimes  too  hafty  in  pronouncing  fen- 
tence  on  criminals,  for  which  he  has  been  often 
known  to  exprefs  the  ilrongeft  fentiments  of  te- 
morfe-,  and  his  defire  to  prevent  any  ill  effe&s 
from  his  paiTions  has  been  already  remarked. 

In 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  167 

In  his  adminiltration  of  juftice  he  generally 
afted  very  impartially,  except  indeed  when  his 
own  intereft  was  immediately  concerned,  and 
then  every  other  feeling  gave  way.  It  muft, 
however,  be  acknowledged,  that  though  him- 
felf  a  moft  notorious  violator  of  the  laws,  he  fo 
far  reflected  them  that  he  never  would  permit 
others  to  follow  his  example.  Though  fo  ex 
tremely  avaricious,  it  has  been  already  dated  that 
in  fome  fevere  inftances  of  public  diftrefs,  he  gene- 
roufly  difpenfed  his  treafures  to  adminifter  relief 
to  the  fufferers;  and  the  number  of  poor  peo 
ple  who  were  daily  fed  at  his  palace,  of  which  I 
was  an  eye-witnels,  plainly  evinced  that  he  was 
not  deftitute  of  charity.  Europeans  met  with 
greater  encouragement,  and  the  wheels  of  com 
merce  were  lefs  clogged,  during  the  reign  of  Sidi 
Mahomet  than  at  any  preceding  period. 

Thus  was  this  monarch  a  fmgular  compound  of 
liberality  and  intolerance,  of  avarice  and  benevo 
lence,  of  cruelty  and  companion.  It  is  perhaps 
only  a  Hate  of  defpotifin  that  we  behold  this  con- 
fufion  of  character.  The  legal  reftraints  of  civi 
lized  life,  form  themfelves  into  habits ;  and  the 
eccentricities  and  caprices  to  which  circumftances, 
fituation,  the  ftate  of  the  health,  or  perhaps  the 
variations  of  the  climate,  difpofe  the  human 
mind,  are  no  longer  found  to  exift  in  European 
countries,  or  to  exifl  in  an  inferior  degree.  Happy 
it  is,  when  any  reftraints  are  impofed  upon  us, 
to  prevent  us  from  doing  evil.  Man  is  a  creature 
not  formed  for  arbitrary  power.  So  limited  are 
his  views,  fo  variable  his  difpofition,  fo  violent 

and 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C, 

and  tyrannical  his  pafllons,  that  the  wifeft  of  men 
would  certainly  not  willi  for  abfolute  authority, 
and  the  beft,  if  entrufted  with  it,  would  pro 
bably  abuie  it. 

The  conduct  of  the  emperor  towards  foreign 
courts  has  already  been  noticed.  His  means  of 
extracting  money  from  them  by  threatining  a  war, 
which  perhaps  in  reality  he  dreaded,  has  been 
like  wife  flared.  It  will  probably  not  be  unleaibn- 
able  in  this  place  to  introduce  a  few  remarks  on 
their  conduct  towards  him. 

The  obfervation  that  firft  and  moft  naturally 
prefents  itfelf  upon  this  cccafion  is — that  nothing 
but  grofs  neglect  or  inexcufable  ignorance  could 
induce  the  European  princes  in  general  to  remain 
in  a  kind  of  tributary  flate  to  a  prince,  who  had 
neither  an  army  nor  a  fleet  which  deferved  the 
name,  and  a  a  people  whole  difpofition  is  Icfs 
fuited  to  enterprize  than  perhaps  any  other. 

What  had  they  to  fear  from  him?  His  whole 
fleet  confifted  only  of  a  few  fmall  frigates  andr  ow- 
boats,  ill  managed  and  worfe  manned,  the  whole 
of  which  might  have  been  deftroyed  in  one  day 
by  two  or  three  well-appointed  European  frigates. 
The  entrances  of  thofe  ports  where  he  laid  up  his 
jfhipping,  if  we  except  Tangier  and  Larache,  are, 
as  I  before  obferved,  fo  continually  choaking  up 
with  fand,  that  in  a  fhort  time  they  will  only 
admit  fifhing-boats,  or  the  very  fmallefl  craft. 
The  towns  are  none  of  them  regularly  fortified, 
except  Mogodore,  and  that  hardly  produces  half 
a  dozen  men  who  underftand  the  leaft  of  working 
the  guns.  And  yet  this  contemptible  power  gives 

law* 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C» 

laws  to  all  the  coafts  of  Portugal  and  Spain,  and 
may  be  faid  in  fome  meafure  to  command  the  en 
trance  of  the  Mediterranean! 

It  may  be  faid,  he  was  too  trifling  a  power  to 
notice;  if  fo,  why  lavifh  immenfe  prefents  for  the 
purpofe  of  keeping  him  in  temper?  Thofe  who 
imagined  they  fecured  his  frienddiip  by  thefe  means 
were  much  miftaken;  on  the  contrary,  they 
only  added  fuel  to  that  flame  of  avarice  which 
was  not  to  be  extinguiftied,  if  he  was  one  day 
prefented  with  a  frigate,  he  afked  for  two  the 
next;  and  the  more  his  requefts  were  indul 
ged,  the  more  his  inordinate  defires  were  in- 
creafed. 

It  is  well  known  to  thofe  who  have  been  con- 
verfant  with  the  Moors,  that  to  fecure  their 
friendihip  you  muft  firft  affert  your  own  fuperiori- 
ty,  and  then  if  you  make  them  a  trifling  prefent, 
its  value  is  trebled  in  their  eftimation.  The  fame 
drfpolition  would  have  been  found  in  Sidi  Ma 
homet,  as  in  the  common  Moor.  So  far  from 
courting  an  alliance,  it  would  rather  have  been 
good  policy  at  once  to  quarrel  with  him ;  the  lofs 
of  a  few  towns  and  particularly  Mogodore,  to 
which  he  was  much  attached,  from  its  being 
raifed  under  his  own  aufpices,  would  foon  have 
reduced  him  to  good  humour  and  fubmiffion. 

The  emperor's  title  is,  "  Emperor  of  Africa; 
"  Emperor  of  Morocco;  king  of  Fez,  Suz,  and 
"  Gago;  lord  of  Dara  and  Guinea;  and  great 
«  Sharif  of  Mahomet." 

The  principal   amnfement  of  the  emperor  was 

latterly  obferving  his   foldiers  fire  with  mufquets 

at  targets,  and  rewarding  thofe  who  were  fuc- 

cefsf ul  with  fmall  pieces  of  money.     He  alfo  occa- 

I  fionallj 


270  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C> 

fionally  entertained  himfelf  with  falcons;  but  in 
general  he  ipent  the  greater  part  of  his  time  with 
his  women. 

The  emperor  received  foreigners,  and  tranfafted 
all  public  bufmeis,  either  in  his  carriage  or  on 
horfeback,  in  iome  of  the  open  ipaces'  within  the 
palace.  Formerly,  indeed,  on  fuch  occafions, 
it  was  fometimes  cuftomary  to  admit  ft  rangers  in 
to  cne  of  the  rooms;  and  then  he  obliged  them  to 
conform  to  the  cuftom  of  the  country,  by  pulling 
off  their  ihoes  when  in  his  prefence:  but  ibme 
fpirited  Europeans  a  few  years  ago  having  refuied 
to  pay  that  homage,  he  ever  afterwards  gave 
them  audience  in  one  of  his  court-yards.  The 
.Spanifh  friars  at  Morocco  only  were  an  exception 
to  this  rule,  for  upon  their  informing  him  that 
they  never  pulled  off  their  fhoes  to  any  power 
tinder  God,  he  always  permitted  them  to  enter 
his  room  with  them  on. 

Previous  to  a  ftranger,  whether  an  European 
or  Moor,  obtaining  an  audience  of  his  MooniTi 
Majefty,  a  prefent  was  always  made  to  one  of 
his  minifters,  as  an  inducement  to  him  to  acquaint 
his  fovereign  that  a  ftranger  iolicited  that  honour. 
The  firft  prefent,  unleis  it  was  fomething  very 
handfome,  did  not  always  fucceed;  and  it  was 
frequently  necefTary  to  apply  to  two  or  three  mini 
fters  to  procure  a  ipeedy  audience,  or  even  to  fend 
in  a  preicnr  to  one  of  the  SuTanas,  none  of  whom 
entertained  any  very  uneafy  fenfations  about  sc~ 
cey  ting  the  compliment.  The  latter  was  indeed 
ib:  mod  certain  mode  of  fncceeding. 

.A  ''••••: r   htiving  fo  far  Jtccompliftied   bis  v/ifhes, 

;>c.r  v  a ,  next  liable  to  be  detained  a  longer 

r  time  before  the  capricious  monarch 

.  would 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  17! 

would  fix  on  a  day  for  receiving  him.  Even  after 
this  he  would  frequently  fend  for  him  in  a  violent:  ' 
hurry  to  the  palace, and  when  there  keep  him  {land 
ing  in  one  of  the  open  courts  fevcral  hours-,  he 
would  then  fend  an  excufe  for  not  admitting  him 
on  that  day;  and  this  agreeable  procefs  was  in  many 
inftances  repeated  three  or  four  times.  The  tar- 
dinefs,  infolence,  and  irregularity,  of  the  court 
of  Morocco,  is  indeed  beyond  conception  ;  and 
thofe  who  have  bufmefs  there,  ought  to  be  poC- 
iefled  of  all  the  philofophy  and  patience  of  a  Stoic, 
if  they  would  avoid  the  deprivation  of  their  fenfes. 
No  perfon  whatever,  whether  Moor  or  ChriC- 
tian,  was  admitted  into  the  prefence  of  the  fove- 
reign,  but  when  accompanied  with  a  handfome 
prefent,  more  or  lefs  valuable,  in  proportion  to 
the  favour  to  be  requeued.  Even  the  emperor's 
own  fons  were  not  exempted  from  this  cuflom% 
upon  paying  their  firil  vilit  after  a  previous  ab- 
fence.  The  generofity  of  the  fuitor  mult  not  even 
flop  here;  for  when  the  audience  is  over,  the 
mailer  of  the  ceremonies  with  his  fervants,  and 
the  porters  of  all  the  gates  of  the  palace,  which 
are  rather  numerous,  have  a  claim  for  their  per- 
quifites,  and  are  not  to  be  got  rid  of  till  they  ob 
tain  fomething.  Indeed,  as  they  receive  no  pay 
from  their  royal  matter,  thefe  perquifites  were 
the  only  means  they  had  of  obtaining  a  fubfift* 


*  For  the  fatisfaction  of  thofe  who  may  have  occaficn 
to  vilit  the  court  of  Morocco  upon  bufmefs,  I  have  with 
difficulty  obtained  an  account  of  the  fees  which  are  ufual* 
]y  paid  by  European  merchants  to  the  emperor's  attend 
ants.  Confuls  and  ambailadors  of  courle  pay  more  in 
proportion*, 

1  a  Expen- 


172  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

After  having  completed  the  bufmefs  at  court, 
the  obtaining  of  the  final  difpatches  was  common 
ly  attended  with  the  fame  difficulties  as  the  ob 
taining  of  an  audience.  The  emperor  was  not 


Expences  at  Court. 

f  A  more  or  lefs  valuable  prefent,  ac- 
To  the  emperor — -^      cording  to  the  favour  which  is  ex- 

L     peeled. 
T0  the  mafter  of  the  ceremonies  for^ 

public  audience,  who  introduces  )»The  fame  in  propor- 
il rangers  to  the  emperor    —     J      tion. 

Ounces. 

To  the  man  who  attends  the  emperor  at  the  Machoire  20 

To     —     who  cleans  his  nmfkets  20 

To     —     who  has  the  care  of  his  horfes             .  20 

To     —     who  makes  tea  for  the  emperor         :         -  10 

To     —     who  has  the  care  of  his  lance             -         -  10 
To     —     who  has  the  care  of  his  umbrella         -         -5 

To     —     who  lias  the  care  of  the  emperor's  faddles  jo 

To  the  emperor's  coachman         -  5 

To  the  man  who  has  the  care  of  the  emperor's  fpurs     -  5 

To     —     who  has  the  care  of  the  emperor's  tents       -  10 

To     —     who  has  the  care  of  the  emperor's  flippers  5 

To     —     who  gives  the  emperor  water  to  drink         -  5 

To     —     who  takes  care  of  the  emperor's  chair         -  5 

To     — "  who  takes  the  flies  ^off  the  emperor's  face  5 

To     *«r>   who  takes  care  of  the  emperor's  fword         -  $ 

To     • — •     v.  ho  takes  care  of  the  emperor's  watcli         -  5 

To  the  porters  of  the  Machoire,  for  ten  gates         -  40 

To  the  emperor's  gardners         -  10 

To  calling  for  each  audience         -         -         -  10 

Total  -  20^ 

An  ounce,  as  I  have  before  tbferved,  is  a  filver  coin  of 
nearly  the  fame  value  as  five  pence  EngliJh. 

only 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  173 

only  naturally  very  forgetful,  but  fometimes,  from 
political  motives,  intentionally  fo.  He  was  very 
well  aware  that  the  longer  ftrangers  were  detained 
at  Morocco,  the  more  his  minifters  would  be  en 
riched  by  them;  and  as  the  money  came  at  lad, 
though  by  a  circuitous  courfe,  into  his  own  pocket, 
he  ufed  frequently  to  forget  that  ftrangers  were 
waiting  for  their  difpatches.  The  minifters,  on 
the  other  hand,  unlefs  ftimulated  by  fubftantial 
prefents,  were  generally  extremely  dilatory  in  re 
minding  him  of  them;  and  there  have  been  many 
inftances  of  foreigners  being  detained  at  Morocco 
five  or  fix  weeks,  entirely  owing  to  this  circum- 
ftance. 

With  refpeft  to  the  court  of  Morocco,  it  lat 
terly  hardly  deferved  that  appellation.  When 
the  emperor  was  young,  his  faculties  clear,  and 
his  abilities  in  their  prime,  he  entrufted  to  his  mi- 
nifters  a  confiderable  {hare  of  the  public  bnfinefs; 
but  within  the  few  lafl  years  of  his  life,  when  his 
ftrength  of  body  as  well  as  of  mind  were  worn 
out  by  hard  fervices  and  old  age,  either  from 
iufpicion  or  dotage,  he  took  the  reins  of  govern 
ment  entirely  into  his  own  hands.  The  miniilcrs 
and  fecretaries  not  daring  to  notice  the  miftakes 
of  the  fovereign,  were  obliged  to  write  nut  letters 
and  fend  orders,  which  were  contradi6led  almofl 
every  hour,  and  which  occafioned  the  utmoft  con- 
fufion.  The  court  of  Morocco,  indeed,  under 
the  moft  advantageous  circumftances,  was  always 
notorious  for  its  irregularity  and  contradiction  ; 
but  a  fhort  time  previous  to  the  emperor's  death, 
the  government  could  fcarcely  be  faid  to  exift 
at  all. 

I  3  As 


*74  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

As  'an  account  of  the  officers  employed  about 
the  court  of  the  emperor  has  never  been  particu 
larly  detailed  to  the  public,  a  fhort  ftatement  of 
them  will  probably  not  be  uninterefting:  I  (hall 
therefore,  in  as  few  w,  rds  as  pofiible,  point  out 
their  refpective  employments. 

The  emperor's  court  confifted  of, 

1.  A    prime  minifter,  named   the   EfTendi,   or 
friend;  who  was  the  refponfible  man,  and  during 
that  period  when  the  government  was  carried  on 
in  a  more  regular  manner,  all  letters  and  orders 
were  iigned  by  him  before  they  were  difpatch- 
ed. 

2.  A  principal  fecretary  to  the  treafury,  united 
with  the  office  of  EfTendi;  who  had  the  difburfe- 
ment  at   large  of  the  emperor's  payments,    with 
fix  Mooriih  and  feven  Jewifh  under-fecretaries. 

3.  A  mailer  of  the  horfe,  with  one  hundred  and 
twenty  afliftants. 

4.  A   grand    chamberlain,   a  place   commonly 
united  with  that  of  prime  minifter,  with  feventeen 
iifliflants;  nine   of  whom  were  fons   of  Spanifh 
rcnegadbes,  three  fons  of  negroes,  and  the  others 
Moors. 

5.  A  grand   falconer,  which  is  an   hereditary 
place,  and  perhaps  the  only  one  in  the  country, 
•with  twenty  afliffcants. 

6.  A  keeper  of  the  great  feal. 

7.  Two  grand  ftewards,  \vith  eight  aiTiftants. 

8.  Five  infpectors  general  of  all  the  emperor's 
affairs,  the  principal  of  whom  was  the  EfFendi. 

9.  Three  mafters  of  ceremonies  for  public  au 
diences,  with  forty  afiiftants. 

10.  An 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  175' 

10.  An  interpreter  general   for  the  German, 
Dutch,  Englilh,  French,  Spamfh,  andLatmlan- 
ouages;  this  man  was  a  German  renegado 
&   i  .    A  fecretary  for  the  SpaniQiand  Italian  lan 
guages,  who  was  a  Genoefe. 
'  12.  Two  grand  keepers  or  the  jewels  and  plate. 

10  A  <rrand  matter  of  the  baths. 

11  Two  grand  keepers  of  the  arienal. 

15.  Two  keepers  of  the  emperor's  goods  and 

warehonfes.  .      - 

16.  Three  infpeftors  of  mofques,  &c. 

17.  Five  keepers  of  the  provifions. 
1  8.  Two  keepers  of  the  library. 

the  carriages  with  two 


weve  fons  of  renegadoes,  who   have 
never  had  beards,  employed  in  drawing  the 


Car22SThree  principal  affiftants  for  prayers,  with 
{eventeen  deputies,  fons  of  the  great  people 

bearers  of  the  umbrella,  with  nine 


affiftants. 

24.  One  bearer  of  the  fabre. 

25.  Two  bearers  of  the  bafon, 
26*.  Two  bearers  of  the  lance. 
27.  One  bearer  of  the  watch. 

28    Five  bearers  of  the  emperors  own  fare. 
locksi  who  are  all  Alcaides,  with  fifteen  mfe: 

affiftants.  .,      ,     , 

20    A  bearer  of  the  colours  and  ftandard. 
30.  A  phyfician  and  a  furgeon,  with  feveral 
tradefmeB,  too  numerous  to  mention.  ^ 


176  -A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Upon  taking  a  retrofpeftive  view  of  the  em 
ployments  under  the  emperor  of  Morocco,  we 
{hall  not  find  that  they  differ  fo  much  from  thofe 
of  other  Hates,  as  might  have  been  imagined,  from 
the  ignorance  of  the  European  cuftorns  obfervable 
in  this  people  in  other  refpecls.  The  places  of  Ef- 
fendi  and  principal  fecretary  to  the  treafury  being 
united  in  one  perfon,  bears  confiderable  analogy  to 
the  union  of  the  office  of  prime  minifter  with  thofe 
of  chancellor  of  the  exchequer  and  firfl  lord  of 
the  treafury.  The  appointments  of  fecretary  of 
ttate,  matter,  of  the  horfe,  grand  chamberlain, 
keeper  of  the  great  feal,  and  grand  falconer,  are 
all  places  which  are  well  known  in  European 
courts;  and  many  others  have  nearly  the  fame 
correfpondence. 

The  principal  difference  between  the  court  of 
Morocco  and  thole  of  Europe  is,  that  the  pof* 
leffors  of  thefe  appointments  in  European  courts 
enjoy  very  lucrative  incomes  from  their  refpeftive 
ftates,  while  thofe  of  Morocco  receive  none  at 
all  from  the  court.  They  depend  folely  on  the 
perquifites  which  are  paid  them  by  thofe  who 
have  bufmefs  to  tranfacT:  with  the  court.  Even 
this,  however,  fometimes  forms  a  very  inconfl- 
derable  income,  though  always  fubjeft  to  defal 
cation  from  the  rapacious  hand  of  their  ibvereign, 
who  fcizes  upon  every  thing  with  which  he  comes 
in  contacl. 

The  EfFendi  to  the  emperor  had  a  degree  of 
addrefs,  and  an  elegance  of  manners  which  would 
have  done  honour  to  an  European  courtier.  He 
received  a  Granger  with  a  pleafing  fmile  and  a 
refpe£tful  bow ;  fhook  him  warmly  by  the  hand, 

enquired 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  177 

enquired  after  his  health,  invited  him  to  his  houfe, 
and  offered  him  his  fervices.  As  he  was  rich,  he 
was  always  extremely  timid  in  the  prefence  of  the 
emperor,  notwithstanding  he  annually  made  him 
a  large  prefent  to  keep  him  in  temper.  Some  of 
the  princes,  and  many  others,  followed  his  ex 
ample  in  this  refpeft,  judicioufly  preferring  the 
enjoyment  of  a  little  with  a  certainty,  to  the  run 
ning  a  rifk  of  the  whole. 

The  emperor  of  late  had  no  regular  court  days, 
but  fixed  upon  them  as  inclination  or  convenience 
dictated.  On  thofe  days  all  the  princes  who 
were  at  Morocco,  and  every  perfon  in  the  imme 
diate  fervice  of  the  emperor,  were  obliged  to  at 
tend  at  the  Machoire,  an  open  part  of  the  palace 
fo  named,  where  they,  with  the  ibldiers,  were 
arranged  in  the  form  of  a  crefcent ;  the  mlnifters 
and  flrangers  in  front,  and  the  fovereign,  either  on 
horfeback  or  in  his  carnage,  in  the  centre.  Upon 
thefe  occafions  the  public  bufmefs  in  general  was 
tranfacted,  foreigners  were  received,  grievances 
were  ftated,  complaints  heard  (every  perfon  being 
at  liberty  to  apply  to  the  emperor  for  redrefs)  and 
malefactors  were  puniflied  in  the  prefence  of  the 
ibvereign,  and  the  whole  court. 

The  revenues  of  the  emperor  of  Morocco  con- 
lift  of  a  tenth  on  every  article  of  confumption, 
being  the  natural  production  of  the  country,  as 
allowed  him  by  the  Koran ;  an  annual  tax  upon 
the  Jews;  his  cuftom-houfe  and  excife  dudes; 
and  the  tributes  which  he  exacts  from  his  fub- 
jefts,  foreign  ftates,  and  European  merchants,  in 
the  form  of  prefents.  From  the  lafl  articles  he 
derives  the  molt  considerable  part  of  his  income. 
I  5  The 


178"  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

The  want  of  fyflem,  and  the  caprice  of  Sidi 
Mahomet,  was  fuch  that  it  was  utterly  impoflible 
to  fay  what  was  the  annual  amount  of  all  thefe 
branches  of  revenue.  The  duties  were  frequently 
changed  three  or  four  times  in  the  co.urfe  of  a 
year,  and  the  tributes  were  fubjecl  to  an  equal 
degree  of  uncertainty.  After  all  it  has  been  a 
matter  of  great  doubt  and  fpeculation  whether  Sidi 
Mahomet  was  wealthy.  From  the  greater  encou 
ragement  to  commerce  during  his  reign,  the  trifling 
expence  of  his  court,  every  perfon  engaged  about 
it,  receiving  little  or  no  pay  from  the  emperor,  the 
uncommonly  fevere  exactions  he  enforced,  and  the 
numerous  voluntary  prefents  he  received,  the  na 
tural  conclufion  was,  that  he  muft  have  been  very 
rich.  On  the  other  hand,  however,  his  expences 
at  the  fieges  of  Melilla  and  Mazngan  are  known 
to  have  been  very  confiderable ;  and  thefe,  united 
to  the  valuable  prefents  he  annually  transmitted  to 
the  grand  Seignior,  and  to  the  Sharif's*  of  Mecca, 
are  to  be  placed  in-  the  oppofite  fcale ;  and  when 
this  is  done,  it  will  perhaps  appear  that  his  wealth 
was  far  from  confiderable. 

The  land  forces  of  the  emperor  of  Morocco, 
confift  principally  of  black  troops,  the  defcendants 
of  thofe  Negroes  which  Muley  Ifhmael  imported 
from  Guinea,  and  fbme  few  white,  amounting  al 
together  to  an  army  of  about  thirty-fix  thou- 
iand  men  upon,  the  eftabliftiment,  two  thirds 
of  which  are  cavalry.  This  eftablifhmenr,  how 
ever,  upon  occafion  admits  of  a  confiderable  in- 
fcreafe,  as  every  man  is  fuppofed  to  be  a  foldier, 


*•  See  page  115. 

and.. 


A  TdtJR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  179 

and  when  called  upon,  is  obliged  to  aft  in  that 
capacity.  About  fix  thouiand  of  the  ftanding 
forces  form  the  emperor's  body  guard,  and  are 
always  kept  near  his  perfon :  the  remainder  are 
quartered  in  the  different  towns  of  the  empire,, 
and  are  under  the  charge  of  the  bafliaws  of  the 
provinces.  They  are  all  clothed  by  the  emperor, 
and  receive  a  trifling  pay  ;  but  their  chief  depend- 
ance  is  on  plunder,  which  they  have  frequent  op 
portunities  of  acquiring. 

The  foldiers  have  no  diftinclion  in  drefs  from; 
the  other  Moors,  and  are  only  marked  by  their 
accoutrements,  which  confift  of  a  fabre,  a  very 
-  long  mufquet,  a  fmall  red  leather  box  to  hold 
their  balls,  which  is  fixed  in  front  by  means  of  a 
belt,  and  a  powder-horn  flung  over  their  ftioulder&. 

The  army  is  under  the  direction  of  a  com 
mander  in  chief,  four  principal  Bafhaws,  and  Al 
caides  who  command  diftinft  divifions.  With 
reipecl:  to  the  Alcaides  it  is  proper  to  remark,  that 
there  are  three  defcriptions  of  perfons  who  bear 
this  appellation- :  but  thofe  to  whom  I  at  prefent 
allude  are  military  officers,  who  command  foldiers 
from  a  thouiand  to  five  hundred,  twenty-five,  or 
even  four  men  in  a  divifion. 

The  black  troops  which  I  have  been  defcribing 
are  naturally  of  a  very  fiery  difpofition^  capable 
of  enduring  great  fatigue,  hanger,  thirft,  and 
every  difficulty  to  which  a  military  life  is  ex- 
pofed.  They  appear  well  calculated  for  fktrmifh- 
ing  parties,  or  for  the  purpofe  of  harraffing  an 
enemy,  but  were  they  obliged  to  undergo  a  re 
gular  attack,  from  their  total  want  of  dilcipHne, 
they  would  foon/be.  routed.  In  all  their  man- 

ceuvres. 


I  &D  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

ceuvres,  they  have  no  notion  whatever  of  orckr 
and  regularity,  but  have  altogether  more  the  ap 
pearance  of  a  rabble  than  of  an  army. 

Though  thcfe  troops  are  iuppofed  to  be  the 
ftrongeft  fupport  of  defpotifm,  yet  from  thck 
avarice  and  love  of  variety,  they  frequently  prove 
the  moil  dangerous  enemies  to  their  monarchs ; 
they  are  often  known  to  excite  fedition  and  rebel 
lion  •,  and  their  iniblence  has  fometimes  proceeded 
to  fuch  exceffes,  as  nearly  to  overturn  the  go 
vernment.  Their  conduct  is  governed  only  by 
their  paflions.  Thofe  who  pay  them  beft,  and 
treat  them  with  the  greateft  attention,  they  will 
always  be  the  moil  ready  to  fupport.  This  cir- 
cnmfrance,  independent  of  every  other,  makes 
it  the  intereft  of  the  monarch  to  keep  his  fubjecls 
in  as  complete  a  ftate  of  poverty  as  poffible. 
The  Moors  are,,  indeed,  remarkable  for  infmcerity 
in  their  attachments,  and  for  their  love  of  Variety ; 
a  military  force,  in  this  kingdom  especially,  is  there 
fore  the  only  means  whkh  a  defpotic  monarch  can. 
employ  for  fecuring  himfelf  in  the  pofTeffion  of  the 
throne.  Ignorant  of  every  principle  of  rational 
liberty^  whatever  contefts  this  devoted  people 
may  engage  in  with  their  tyrants,  are  merely  con- 
tefts  for  the  fucceffion  ;  and  the  fole  object  for 
which  they  fpend  their  lives  and  their  pro 
perty,  is  to  exchange  one  mercilefs  defpot  for  ar>- 
other. 

The  emperor's  navy  confifls  of  about  fifteen 
fmall  frigates,  a  few  xebecks,  and  betv/ecn  twenty 
and  thirty  row-gallies.  The  v/hole  is  conamanded 
by  one  admiral ,  but  as  thefe  vefTels  arc  princi 
pally  ufed  for  the  purpofes  gf  piracy,  they  feldom 

imke 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  I  Si 

itmhe  in  a  fleet*     The  number  of  feaman  in  the 
iervice,  are  computed  at  fix  thoufand. 

I  have  already  noted  the  bad  ftate  of  the  ports 
of  Morocco,  and  the  probability  of  their  becoming 
frill  \vorfe  •,  it  is  therefore  evident,  that  very  little 
is  to  be  apprehended  from  the  emperor  as  a  naval 
power ;  and  indeed  I'  am  apt  to  believe,  that 
though  a  confiderable  part  of  his  dominions  is 
apparently  maritime,  he  will  in  the  courfe  of  fome 
years  be  deftitute  both  of  fleets  and  harbours. 

When  defcribing  the  emperor's  character,  I  ob- 
ferved,  that  there  cannot  exift  a  more  abfolute  go 
vernment  than  that  of  Morocco;  the  lives  and 
properties  of  the  fubjefts  depending  entirely  on 
the  will  or  caprice  of  the  monarch.  The  forms 
of  order  and  jnftlce  are,  however,  ftill  preferred, 
though  but  very  little  of  the  fubftance  remains. 

An  officer  is  appointed  by  the  emperor  for  the 
government  of  every  province,  who,  as  I  have 
already  flated,  is  named  a  Baftiaw  •,  he  is  gener 
ally  a  Moor  of  fome  diftinftion,  and  frequently 
one  of  the  emperor's  fons .  This  officer,  who  is 
appointed  or  removed  at  the  will  of  the  fovereign, 
has  almof^  an  unlimited  power  throughout  the 
province  which  he  commands-,  he  can  inflict 
every  punifhment  but  death ;  can  levy  taxes,  im- 
pofe  fines,  and  in  fhort  can  plunder  any  individual 
he  pleafes ;  and  indeed,  if  the  reader  will  not 
fmile  at  the  abufe  of  words,  the  plundering  of  the 
public  and  of  individuals  may  be  confidered  as  a 
"  part  of  his  office.  When  by  every  fpecies  of  ra 
pacity  he  has  amafled  a  large  property,  then  h  be 
comes  the  bufmefs  of  the  emperor  to  divert  this 
sreafure  into  his  own  coffers.  Some  frivolous 

plea 


132  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C* 

plea  is  therefore  invented  for  the  imprifoning  of 
the  bafhaw,  which  is  immediately  put  into  execu 
tion.  The  emperor  then  feizes  upon  all  his  pro 
perty,  and  afterwards  reinftates  him  in  his  govern 
ment,  in  order  that  the  fame  game  may  be  played 
over  again.  So  perfeftly  acquainted  with  man 
kind  in  every  ftate  and  fituation,  was  our  inimit 
able  Shakefpeare : 

"  Rofencrantz.  Take  you  me  for  a  fpunge,  my 
«  lord  ? 

"  Hamlet.  Aye,  Sir ;  that  foaks  up  the  king's 
"  countenance,  his  rewards,  his  authorities.  But 
"  luch  officers  do  the  king  befl  fervice  in  the  end  ; 
"  he  keeps  them,  like  an  ape,  in  the  corner  of  his 
"jaw,  firfl:  mouthed,  to  be  at  lafl  {wallowed. 
"  When  he  needs  what  you  have  gleaned,  it  is  but 
"  fqueezing  you,  and  fpunge,  you  fhali  be  dry 
"  again." 

Subordinate  to  the  bafrmw,  the  emperor  ap 
points  governors  to  each  town,  named  Alcaides, 
and  officers  with  a  fimilar  authority  in  every  Dou- 
har  or  encampment,  who  are  called  Shaiks ; 
thefe  officers  have  the  fame  power  invefted  in  them 
over  their  feveral  diftri&s  as  the  bafhaws  have  in 
their  provinces.  But  in  other  refpefts  their  fitua 
tion  is  worfe,  as  they  arc  not  only  fubjeft  to  the 
tyranny  of  the  emperor,  but  alfo  of  the  bafhaw. 

The  Alcaide,  or  governor,  is  invefted  with 
both  the  military  and  civil  authority  in  the  town 
where  he  refides.  As  a  military  officer,  he  com 
mands  a  number  of  foldiers,  whom  he  employs 
for  the  public  defence  and  tranquility,  and  alfo  for 
enforcing  the  payment  of  taxes,  for  the  punifhing 
cf  delinquents,  and  to  convey  his  orders  and  mei- 

fages, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C.  I  83 

fages  to  court,  or  into  the  country.  As  a  civil 
officer,  he  has  the  entire  cognizance  of  all  criminal 
matters,  for  which  he  di  cretionally  inflidts  any 
punifhment  fhort  of  death. 

If  we  only  refleft  on  the  dangerous  extent  of 
this  almoft  unlimited  power,  it  is  eafy  to  anticipate 
the  abufes  of  it  in  a  country  where  fo  little  atten 
tion  is  paid  to  juftice  or  honour.  For  the  mofl 
trifling  offences  the  Alcaide  condemns  the  delin 
quent  not  only  to  be  baftinadoed  very  feverely,  arid 
imprifoned,  but  alfo  to  pay  him  a  fum  of  money,  or 
prefent  him  with  fome  other  article  equal  in  value, 
which  probably  the  prifoner  has  been  half  his 
life  in  acquiring.  It  frequently  happens,  indeed, 
that  falfe  accufations  are  invented  purpofely  againft 
individuals  to  plunder  them  of  their  property. 
This  is  not  the  only  inconvenience  arifmg  from 
an  abufe  of  power ; — for  let  a  perlbn  commit  the 
moft  notorious  crime,  if  he  can  carry  up  a  prefent 
to  the  governor  of  greater  value  than  what  was 
prefented  by  his  accufer,  he  is  not  only  forgiven, 
but  if  he  has  the  lead:  ingenuity,  he  will  find  very 
little  difficulty  in  throwing  the  whole  of  the  crime 
upon  his  antagonifL  Indeed,  in  this  country, 
juftice,  or  rather  judgment,  is  mofl  eaiily  procured 
by  purchafing  it. 

Under  the  Alcaide  isMn  officer  named  Ell-hao- 
kum,  or  deputy  governor,  whofo  office  bears 
fome  analogy  to  our  principal  bailiff  or  conftable. 

Befides  thefe  officers,  there  is  ia  every  town  a 
Cadi,  who  is  both  a  civil  judge  and  the  chief 
priefi: ;  for  it  is  well  known  that  the  civil  and  re 
ligious  inflitutions  are  united  in  the  Koran.  When 
any  dilpute  happens  between  individuals,  refpeft- 


184  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &c. 

ing  matters  of  right  or  property,  debts,  infults, 
&c.  the  perfon  who  fuppofes  him felf  injured  may 
apply  for  redrefs  to  the  Cadi,  who  is  to  determine 
the  matter  agreeably  to  the  principles  of  the  Koran. 
In  the  abfence  of  the  Cadi,  any  of  the  Talbs, 
who  are  common  priefts,  are  equally  authorifed 
to  a6l  for  him.  If  the  parties  chufe  to  employ 
lawyers,  the  pleadings  muft  be  carried  on  in 
writing,  otherwife  they  plead  orally  their  own 
caufes.  Upon  thefe  occafions  the  Cadi  or  Taibs 
cannot  openly  receive  any  payment,  but  it  is  well 
Icnown  that  they  are  too  frequently  influenced  by 
private  prefents. 

The  chief  of  the  Cadis  is  the  Mufti,  who  is  al- 
fo  the  fupreme  head  of  the  church. 

When  any  party  in  a  fuit  conceives  that  he  has 
reafon  to  complain  of  the  jnrifdiftion  of  thefe  of 
ficers,  he  has  a  right  to  appeal  to  the  emperor,  who 
gives  public  audiences  for  the  purpofe  of  admi- 
niflering juftice.  This  cuftom  would  be  a. great 
alleviation  to  the  evils  of  defpotiim,  were  the  em 
peror  always  to  adminifter  juftice impartially;  but 
valuable  prefents  have  fometimes  too  powerful  an 
influence  even  over  the  fovereign  himfdf.  On 
this  account,  as  well  as  on  that  of  the  great  dif- 
tance  of  many  of  the  provinces  from  the  ieat  of 
government,  the  people  feldom  embrace  this  laft 
refource  in  applying  for  juftice. 

The  mode  of  puniihing  criminals  in  this  coun 
try  depends  entirely  upon  the  will  of  the  fovereign. 
Trifling  offences  are  ufually  punifhed  by  impriion- 
ment  and  the  baftinado,  which  is  inflicting  a  certain 
number  of  {tripes  on  the  back  and  legs  by  leather 
ilraps,  and  which  is  fometimes  executes!  with 

great 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  185 

I 

great  feverity.  For  crimes  of  a  more  ferious  na 
ture,  in  fome  cafes  the  hands  are  cut  off,  parti*- 
cularly  for  Healing,  in  others  a  leg  and  a  hand. 
When  I  was  at  Morocco  four  men  who  had  com 
mitted  murder  had  both  their  hands  and  legs  cut 
off,  and  were  afterwards  ihot.  Other  criminals 
are  run-through  with  fwords,  knocked  down 
with  clubs,  or  are  beheaded.  Another  mode  of 
punlfhment  is  toiling,  v/hich  is  ib  contrived  that 
the  viclim  falls  immediately  upon  his  head. — • 
There  were  feveral  perfons  about  Sidi  Mahomet, 
who  from  pradice  had  acquired  an  habit  of 
throwing  perfons  up,  ib  as  at  pleafure  either  to 
break  the  head,  diflocate  the  neck,  frafture  an 
arm,  leg,  or  both,  or  to  let  them  fall  without  re 
ceiving  any  material  injury.  When  I  was  at  Mo 
rocco  a  man  received  the  latter  punifhment  in  the 
morning,  and  in  the  afternoon  the  emperor  made 
him  a  handfome  prefent  as  a  recompence  for  what 
he  had  fufFered. 

To  fum  up  all  in  a  few  words,  there  is  no  mode 
of  cruelty  known  which  has  not  been  pra&ifed  at 
Morocco.  I  am  well  aware  that  in  the  prefent 
uncivilized  ftate  of  the  people,  fevere  and  exem 
plary  puniihments  may  be  necefTary  to  keep  them 
in  any  degree  of  fubjeftion  ,  but  it  mnft  be  at  leaft 
allowed  that  fuch  feverities  fhould  never  be  in- 
fiifted  but  when  there  is  a  full  proof  of  guilt.  The 
contrary  of  this  I  am  afraid  is  too  often  the  cafe 
at  Morocco.  The  accufed  is  feldorn  permitted  to 
make  his  defence,  but  is  fent  out  of  the  world 
very  frequently  without  knowing  for  what  he 
fuffers. 

Thcfc 


1 86  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Thefe  punifhments  were  always  inflifted  in  the 
prefence  of  the  emperor.  The  former  monarch s 
of  this  country  were  their  own  executioners,  and 
Sidi  Mahomet  acfted  in  the  fame  capacity  when 
prince ;  but  upon  his  acceffion  to  the  throne  he 
refigned  this  refpeftable  office  to  his  Negro  fol- 
diers.  I  never  was  prefent  at  any  of  thefe  exe 
cutions,  but  was  informed  that  legs  and  arms  are 
taken  off  by  a  common  knife  and  faw,  and  that 
the  ftump  is  afterwards  dipped  in  boiling  pitch, 
-which  is  the  only  mode  of  flopping  the  hemor 
rhage  with  which  they  are  acquinted. 

To  evince  in  what  a  cool  light  all  thefe  things 
are  confidered  by  the  Moors,  one  of  the  emperor's 
fons  had  undertaken  to  put  a  memorial  from  me 
into  his  father's  hands,  praying  to  be  fent  home. 
Upon  my  calling  upon  him  to  afk  if  he  had  com 
plied  with  my  requeft,  he  informed  me  that  when 
he  laft  faw  his  father  an  opportunity  had  not 
offered,  as  he  was  then  very  bttfy  in  putting  fome 
ferfons  to  death. 


CHAP. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  187 


CHAP.     X. 

Arrival  o/'MuLEY  ABSULEM  at  MOROCCO  — Ins  pom 
pous  Entry. — Adventures  of  foms  Englijb  Captives. — 
AccQuntof  wild  Arabs. — Interview  with  the  Prince. — 
Flattering  Expectations— dif appointed. — Unworthy  con* 
duft  of  the  Prince — -his  departure  for  M-KCCA* — Dif- 
agreeable  Embarrnj]mtnt$*-~*EffQrt$  of  tks  Author  to 
procure  Leave  to  return. 

ABOUT'ten  days  after  my  interview  with  the 
emperor,  Muley  Abfulem  arrived  fromTaru- 
dant,  in  his  way  to  Mecca.  As  this  prince  was 
(b  diftinguifhed  a  favourite  with  the  emperor,  his 
public  entrance  into  Morocco  was  conducted  in 
a  much  more  magnificent  ftile  than  any  other  part 
}f  the  royal  family  would  perhaps  have  ventured 
4pon.  As  foon  as  intelligence  arrived  that  the 
^rince  was  approaching  the  city,  two  of  his  bro- 
hers,  Muley  Slemma  and  Muley  Oafline,  who 
lappened  to  be  at  Morocco  at  the  time,  the  Bafhaw, 
md  all  the  principal  perfons  in  the  city,  received 
)rders  to  proceed  on  horfeback  to  meet  him,  which 
hey  did  in  great  form,  and  found  him  encamped 
it  the  diftance  of  about  four  rniks.  As  foon  as 
ic  had  dined,  the  cavalcade  commenced,  confiding 
irft,  of  all  the  prince's  Alcaides,  about  twelve  in 
lumber,  in  front,  flanked  on  each  fide  by  one 
landard-bearer,  who  carried  each  a  red  flag,  and 
>ne  lance-bearer,  carrying  a  lanee  of  an  uncom- 
non  length.  Behind  them  was  Muley  Abfulem 
n  the  centre;  on  the  right  of  him  Muley  Slemma, 
,nd  on  the  left  Muley  Ouffine.  The  next  in  order 

was 


I  88  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

was  the  Bafhaw,  with  the  principal  perfons  of  thfe 
city;  and  the  rear  was  brought  up  by  a  troop  of 
one  hundred  cavalry,  all  abreaft,  partly  Negroes 
and  partly  Moors,  who  had  the  butt  end  of  their 
rnufltets  refting  on  their  faddles,  with  the  muzzles 
pointed  perpendicularly.  In  this  manner  the 
prince  advanced  till  he  approached  the  wails  of 
the  town,  where  he  received  orders  to  halt  till 
the  emperor  came  to  him;  an  honour  which  had 
never  been  paid  by  Sidi  Mahomet  to  any  perfon 
before.  The  emperor  fhortly  after  advanced  on 
horfeback,  with  his  fuite,  confining  of  about 
fifty  foldiers.  Upon  his  approach  Muley  Abfulem 
difmounted  and  kifTed  the  earth;  upon  which  the 
emperor  commanded  him  to  rife,  and  approach 
dole  to  his  perfon.  He  then  bleffed  him,  laying 
his  hand  on  the  prince's  head,  and  afterwards 
embraced  him  with  all  the  affection  of  a  fond 
father.  Having  made  many  enquiries  concerning 
his  foil's  health,  the  emperor  took  his  leave,  and 
each  retired  to  their  refpeftive  places  of  refidence. 
As  foon  as  the  prince  had  got  within  the  walls  of 
his  garden,  his  troops  fired  three  vollies  of  muf- 
quetry  in  an  irregular  manner,  as  is  cuftomary 
on  thefe  occafions,  and  there  the  ceremony  con 
cluded. 

It  may  eafily  be  imagined,  that  I  loft  no  time 
in  waiting  on  his  highnefs,  and  I  received  from  him 
as  flattering  a  reception  as  I  could  poflibly  wifh. 
The  prince  informed  me  that  he  had  continued 
recovering  his  fight  gradually,  and  that  he  found 
himfelf  in  every  other  refpecl:  in  good  health.  I 
took  this  opportunity  of  reprefenting  to  him  how 
difagreeably  I  was  fituated  with  refpeft  to  the 

emperor 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  I  89 

emperor,  and  trufled  that  he  would  now  clear 
up  every  doubt  that  might  have  arifen  on  my 
account;  and  with  this  requeft  he  promifed  to 
comply.  On  paying  my  fecond  vifit,  the  prince 
informed  me  that  he  had  obtained  the  emperor's 
permiffion  to  have  again  recourfe  to  his  medi 
cines,  and  that  he  was  certain  he  fhould  have  in 
fluence  fufficient  with  his  father  to  perfuade  him 
to  give  me  up  the  Englifli  captives,  as  a  compli 
ment  for  my  iervices. 

The  prince  had  brought  along  with  him  to  Mo 
rocco  the  Englifh  captain,  the  only  Englifhman 
that  had  been  left  in  llavery,  the  black  having 
died  Ibme  time  before.  My  reader  will  eafily  con 
ceive  the  pleafure  I  felt  at  feeing  my  unfortunate 
countryman,  who  had  been  left  alone  in  the  hands 
of  favages,  now  out  of  immediate  flavery,  and 
with  the  chearful  profpeft,  according  to  the  pro- 
mifes  of  the  prince,  of  being  immediately  fent 
home  to  his  friends  and  country.  My  fenfations 
indeed  on  the  occafion  may  be  much  more  eafily 
felt  than  defcribed.  But  if  this  circumftance  had 
fuch  an  effect  upon  me,  what  muft  it  have  had 
upon  this  unfortunate  officer,  who  for  forne 
months  paft  had  been  feparated  from  his  people, 
one  of  whom  was  a  near  relation,  and  without 
knowing  whether  they  were  dead  or  alive;  who 
with  the  evils  of  flavery  had  experienced  that  of 
a  fevere  fever,  without  having  any  perfon  to  con* 
fole  him,  or  afford  him  that  affiftance  which  is 
fo  neceifary  upon  fuch  occafions?  To  be  redeemed 
under  fuch  circumflances  from  his  inhofpitable 
fituation,  to  recover  from  his  illnefs,  and  to  meet 
with  all  his  companions  at  Morocco,  well  taken 

care 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

care  of  by  the  emperor,  was  a  change  which  he 
had  given  up  all  expectation  of  ever  behold 
ing. 

The  captain  was  a  well-informed  young  man, 
and  an  agreeable  companion.  He  had  been  brought 
up,  as  I  before  intimated,  to  the  profeflion  of 
medicine  and  furgery,  in  both  of  which  he  had 
received  a  good  education.  His  firfl  effay  in  the 
world  was  as  furgeon  to  a  Guinea-man;  after 
having  made  feveral  voyages  in  this  capacity,  how 
ever,  finding  it  a  difadvantageous  employment, 
he  obtained  the  command  of  a  fmall  vefTel  in  the 
fame  trade,  and  this  was  his  firft  voyage  as  com 
mander. 

Contrary  to  his  inclination  he  was  ordered  by 
his  owners  to  fail  between  the  canaries  and  the 
coaft  of  Africa,  which  is  at  all  times  confidered 
as  a  dangerous  navigation.  As  he  approached 
towards  the  fpot  where  his  misfortune  happened, 
•which  is  inhabited  by  wild  Arabs,  he  got  into  a 
ftrong  current,  which  drives  directly  towards  the 
fhore,  and  a  perfect  calm  fucceeding,  the  veflcl 
unavoidably  ran  aground.  The  crew  immediately 
took  to  their  boat,  carried  off  all  the  money  on 
board,  which  was  about  five  hundred  dollars, 
with  a  good  fhare  of  provifions  and  water,  and 
got  fafe  to  fhore. 

The  part  of  the  country  were  they  were  wreck 
ed  con fi fled  of  deep  and  heavy  fands.  As  upon 
their  firft  landing  they  faw  nothing  to  molcft  them, 
it  was  their  intention  to  proceed  on  foot,  along 
the  coaft  to  the  northward,  till  they  could  reach 
Santa  Cruz  or  Mogodore,  where  they  could 
make  their  fituation  known.  For  this  purpoie 

they 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  Ipl 

they  fet  off  with  their  money,  provifions  and 
water,  and  met  with  no  difturbance  till  the  end 
of  two  days.  They  then  obferved  a  party  of  wild 
Arabs,  armed  with  large  clubs  and  knives,  and 
rapidly  advancing  towards  them:  their  firfl  objeft 
was  to  bury  their  money  in  the  fands.  Over 
powered  by  numbers,  they  faw  no  chance  of 
making  a  fuccefsful  defence,  and  therefore  every 
moment  expe6r.ed  inftantaneous  death.  The  fa- 
vages,  however,  had  a  different  objedl  in  view. 
They  knew  very  well  that  what  property  the  un 
fortunate  people  had  about  them  was  fufficiently 
fecnre,  without  being  under  the  neceffity  of  de£ 
troying  their  lives  in  order  to  obtain  it,  and  they 
were  not  ignorant  of  the  value  of  their  perfons 
when  offered  for  fale;  their  ultimate  obj eft  there 
fore  was,  to  bring  them  to  market  as  flaves. 

As  each  of  their  conquerors  conceived  him- 
felf  equally  interefted  in  the  capture,  they  were 
fome  time  before  they  could  agree  among  them- 
felves  how  they  fhould  difpofe  of  their  prifoners, 
in  the  mean  time  ibme  of  the  people  were  knocked 
down,  others  had  their  pockets  cut  out,  and  the 
buttons  torn  from  off  their  coats.  They  were  at 
laft  feized  on  by  different  peribns,  and  carried 
away  to  different  places  of  refidence. 

As  I  had  an  oportunity  of  feeing  fome  of  theie 
favages  at  Morocco,  and  as  they  appeared  to  be 
in  fome  refpefts  different  from  thofe  Arabs  whom 
I  had  met  with  in  my  travels,  I  (hall  beg  leave  to 
defcribe  them.  Contrary  to  the  cuftom  of  the 
Moors,  they  wear  the  hair  long,  which  is  a  dark 
black,  and  flarting  from  their  heads  like  porcu 
pine's  quills.  Their  complexions  are  off  a  very 
2  dark 


,   Ip 2  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

•  dark  brown,  their  nofes  very  pointed,  their  eyes 

.  dark  and  flaring,    their  beards   long,    and  their 

;  features  altogether  fuggeft  the  idea  of  lunacy  or 

raving  madnefs.     In  their  perfons  they  are  very 

flrong  and  mufcular-,  and  many  of  them  go  quite 

naked j    others  wear  only  a  fmall  garment  round 

their  waifts. — But  to  return  to  my  narrative. 

The  Englifh  failors  were  put  into  miferable 
huts  or  tents,  where  for  feveral  days  they  could 
procure  no  fuftenance,  but  juniper-berries,  brakifh 
water,  and  now  and  then  a  fmall  quantity  of 
milk. 

From  thefe  people  they  were  foon  difpofed  of 
to  others,  who  put  them  into  the  immediate  em 
ployments  of  flavery,  thefe  employments  were  the 
carrying  of  water  in  {kins9  and  performing  various 
other  kinds  of  drudgery,  which  was  at  all  times 
accompanied  with  flripes. 

After  continuing  in  this  ftate  between  two  and 
three  months,  they  contrived  to  get  a  letter  con 
veyed  to  the  Englifh  vice  conful  at  Mogodore, 
expreflive  of  their  fituation,  who  forwarded  it 
to  the  conful  general  at  Tangier,  and  at  the  fame 
time  wrote  to  Muley  Abfulem  upon  the  fubjecl. 
This  prince,  who  commanded  the  province  ad 
joining  to  that  where  Captain  Irving  and  his  people 
were  -detained,  at  the  expiration  of  eight  months 
from  the  time  this  accident  happened,  obtained 
the  emperor's  permiffion  to  redeem  them  out  of 
flavery,  with  orders  to  fend  them  up  to  Moroc 
co,  where  his  Moorifh  majefty  thought  proper  to 
keep  them,  till  they  were  exprefsly  fent  for  by  our 
fovereign  j  or,  in  other  words,  till  he  received  an 
haudfome  prefent. 

About 


A  TOUR.  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  193 

About  four  days  after  the  prince's  arrival,  the 
flattering  affurances  which  he  had  at  firft  given 
me  refpecling  theie  unfortunate  perfons  were  ap* 
parently  confirmed,  by  his  informing  me,  that  he 
had  fucceeded  to  his  wiihes  with  the  emperor, 
in  what  he  had  promifed  relative  to  the  English 
captives;  that  in  two  or  three  days  he  was  to  fee 
off  for  Fez,  in  his  way  to  Mecca,  and  that  he 
was  to  take  us  all  with  him  as  far  as  Sallee,  whence 
a  party  was  to  be  difpatched  to  conduct  us  to 
Tangier. 

Such  agreeable  intelligence,  and  from  fuch 
authority,  afforded  me  the  moft  pleafing  hopes  that 
my  journey  would  yet  end  to  my  fatisfa<5tion.  I 
eagerly  flew  to  the  captain  to  acquaint  him  with 
it;  but  he  feemed  too  much  accuflomed  to  di£- 
appointments,  to  entertain  any  very  fangaine  ex 
pectations  from  my  information.  I  think,  how 
ever,  his  fpirits  .appeared  fbmewhat  revived  upon 
the  occafion. 

The  day  before  the  prince's  departure  I  was  de- 
fired  to  Hate  the  number  cf  mules  which  would 
be  necedary  to  convey  my  baggage  5  at  the  fame 
time  I  was  told,  that  in  two  days  we  were  all  tD 
fet  off.  To  my  very  great  far  prize,  however, 
on  the  faire  evening,  I  was  for  the  firfl  time  re- 
fufed  permiflion  to  fee  the  prince;  an  excufe  being 
made  that  he  was  then  buiy,  and  therefore  wifhed 
me  to  call  in  the  morning.  At  the  fame  time  I 
-faw  every  preparation  making  for  the  journey, 
and  was  pofitively  told  that  the  prince  was  to  de 
part  from  Morocco  the  very  next  day. 

As  I  could  not  help  feeling  uneafy  and  alarmed 

at  this  circumftance,  I  repaired  early  in  themorn- 

K  ino* 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

ing  to  the  prince's  habitation,  to  know  the  truth 
of  what  I  had  heard  the  day  before;  little  enquiry, 
however,  was  neceffary,  fince  the  firfl  objedt  that 
prefented  itfelf  was  the  baggage  mules  ready 
loaded;  and,  in  addition  to  this  circumftance,  I 
was  informed,  that  the  prince  was  to  let  off  in  an 
hour's  time. 

It  was  in  vain  that  I  fent  in  repeated  mefTages 
to  the  prince,  requeuing  that  he  would  permit  me 
to  fee  him.  The  only  anfwer  I  could  obtain  was, 
that  he  was  then  engaged,  and  that  I  mufl  wait 
a  little.  Wearied  out  at  length  by  the  urgency 
of  my  felicitations,  a  particular  friend  of  his 
highnefs  came  out  and  told  me,  that  the  prince 
had  fent  me  ten  hard  dollars,  with  order  to  leave 
the  garden  immediately,  as  no  perfon  but  the  em* 
peror  could  fend  me  home. 

Enraged  at  this  unworthy  treatment,  I  defired 
the  Moor  to  acquaint  the  prince,  that  it  was  not 
money  I  wanted;  I  wifhed  him  only  to  fulfil  his 
engagement,  and  that  till  I  had  fome  profpeft  of 
that  being  accompli  {bed,  I  would  not  ftir  from 
the  garden,  unlefs  compelled  by  force.  The  re- 
fult  of  this  meflage  was,  that  the  fame  man  re* 
turned  with  two  dollars  more,  and  faid  that  the 
prince  had  done  all  he  could  for  me.  If  I  chofe 
to  go  to  one  of  the  emperois  fecretaries,  whole 
name  he  mentioned,  he  would  give  me  the  em 
peror's  letter  of  difpatch,  and  then  I  might  pro 
ceed  home  in  what  manner  I  pleafed,  but  that 
the  prince  had  no  further  bufmefs  with  me.  Find 
ing  that  meflages  were  fmitlels,  I  determined  to 
watch  the  oportunity  of  the  prince's  coming  out 
of  his  houfe,  and  as  ibon  as  he  had  mounted  his 

horfe 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  Ip5 

horfe,  I  placed  myfelf  direftly  before  him.  In 
this  lafl  refource,  however,  I  found  myfelf  equally 
unfuccefsful  as  before,  and  experienced  the  laft 
extreme  of  rudenefs  and  ingratitude;  for  before 
my  interpreter  could  pronounce  a  fingle  fentence, 
the  prince  puttied  on,  and  rode  nattily  by  me, 
leaving  me  in  as  difagreeable  a  iltuation  as  can  well 
be  conceived. 

To  whatever  point  I  direfted  my  view,  there 
appeared  nothing  comfortable  in  the  profpeft.  I 
had  come  purpolely  into  the  country  to  attend  the 
prince,  with  his  mofl  pofitive  aflurances  that  I 
fnould  be  lent  back  again,  when  he  had  no  further 
occafion  for  my  fervices.  How  great  then  muft 
be  my  mortification  to  find  myfelf  in  a  worfe  fitua- 
tion  than  the  crane  in  the  fable?  fmceinftead  of 
obtaining  from  him  this  negative  favour,  in  return 
for  all  the  fatigues  and  inconveniences  which  I 
had  experienced  on  his  account,  I  found  mylelt 
deferted  entirely,  and  left  in  the  charge  of  a  haugh 
ty  and  perfidious  emperor!  Doubt  after  doubt 
took  pofTefTion  of  my  mind;  and  this,  joined  with 
the  refledion  of  having  fo  completely  difappointed 
the  hopes  of  the  unfortunate  feamen,  as  well  as 
the  favourable  accounts  I  had  written  to  the  con- 
ful  on  the  prince's  recovery,  preffed  fo  forcibly 
on  my  feelings,  that  for  the  fpace  of  two  or  three 
hours  I  was  in  a  ftate  little  better  than  that  of  iu- 
fanity. 

As  foon  as  I  found  myfelf  in  fome  degree  re 
covered,  I  went  to  the  perfon  to  whom  I  was  di- 
refted  for  my  letter  of  difpatch,  and  was  inform 
ed  that  he  had  fet  off  early  that  morning  for  Fez; 
and  had  the  further  fatisfacKon  of  difcovering 
that  the  prince  had  availed  himfelf  of  this  excufe, 
K  2  ia 


Ip'5  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

in  order  to  avoid  my  importunity.  As  no  ftran- 
ger  who  is  fent  for  by  the  emperor  can  ftir  from 
the  court  till  he  gets  his  difpatches,  I  now  con- 
fidered  myfelf  in  every  refpecl:  a  prifoner.  Difap- 
pointed  in  every  hope  of  emancipation,  I  returned 
home,  and  immediately  difpatched  expreifes  to 
the  confuls  at  Tangier  and  Mogodore,  informing 
them  of  my  fituation,  and  earneflly  requeuing  their 
immediate  interference.  In  thejnean  time  1  omit 
ted  no  other  means  which  occurred  to  procure 
my  difpatches,  but  all  without  fuccefs,  The  molt 
probable  ftep  which  I  could  devife,  or  at  lead 
which  I  could  carry  into  effect,  was  to  convey 
to  the  emperor's  hands  the  following  memorial, 
by  means  of  one  of  his  fons. 

To  his  Imperial  Majeily  of  Morocco. 

Moil:  augufl  fovereign, 

With  all  the  refpec't  and  fubmifnon  due  to  your 
rnajefry's  exalted  Uation,  I  take  the  liberty  of  in 
forming  your  majefty,  that  1  had  particular  orders 
from  the  governor  of  Gibraltar,  under  whole 
command  I  have  the  honour  to  ferve,  to  return  im 
mediately  to  my  duty,  upon  my  Services  being  no 
longer  necefiary  to  your  majefly's  fon,  the  prince 
Muiey  Abfulerii.  That  now  being  the  cafe,  I  on 
ly  wrfit  to  kno\v  whether  I  am  to  have  the  honour 
of  conveying  your  majeiiy's  commands  to  Tangier, 
cither  for  your  majelty's  ion  Muley  Haiem,  or  for 
the  Britifh  conful-general. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be,  mofl    rcfpeclfully, 
Your,  majefly's  rnofl  humble 
and  devoted  fervanr, 

W.  Lempriere. 

I  got 


A   TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

I  got  the  above  letter  tranflated  into  Arabic, 
worded  in  the  uiual  compliments  of  the  country, 
and  having  incloied  it  in  a  filk  handkerchief,  the 
mode  in  which  all  letters  are  prefented  to  royal 
perfonages  in  Barbary,  and  carried  to  Muley 
Omar,  whom  I  had  feen  at  Tarudant,  with  a  pre- 
fent  of  Irifh  linen,  in  value  about  fix.  dollars, 
wrapped  up  alfo  in  a  filk  handkerchief ;  and  re- 
quelled  him  to  deliver  it  into  his  father's  hands 
the  firlt  opportunity.  The  prince  firfl  received 
the  prefent,  and  then  told  me,  that  as  we  were 
old  friends,  I  needed  not  have  troubled  myfeif 
with  bringing  one  ;  but  that  I  might  be  a  flu  red  he 
would  fettle  the  bufinefs  to  my  entire  fatisfaftioii 
in  a  very  ihort  time.  The  refult  of  this  applica 
tion  was,  a  promife  from  the  emperor  of  being 
fent  home  immediately  5  but  this  was  attended 
with  the  fame  infincerity  which  I  had  ufually  ex 
perienced. 

My  next  effort  was,  by  making  prefents  to  the 
principal  minifters  to  bribe  them  over  to  my  in- 
tereft,  as  my  delay  might  probably  arife  as  much 
from  the  emperors  want  of  memory  as  from  any 
other  caufe-,  for  his  faculties  were  then  fb  much 
impaired,  that  he  was  not  able  to  recolleft  circum- 
ftances  from  one  hour  to  another.  I  was  in  hopes 
that  by  means  of  his  miniilers  he  would  be  con 
tinually  reminded  of  me  j  but,  either  be  caufe  my 
prefents  were  not  fumciently  large,  or  becaufe 
thefe  rapacious  minifters  were  in  hopes  I  would 
repeat  them,  I  effected  nothing  by  this  plan. 


K3  C  H  A  R 


19-8  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


CHAP.     XL 

Departure  of  Captain  IRVING. — Infolence  of  the  Populace 
to  Chrlfllans. — Manners  and  Character  of  the  Moors* 
— Education  of  the  Princes. — Per  fans  and  Drefs  of  the 
Moors. — Houfes  and  Furniture. — Ceremonies. — Cou 
riers. — Anecdotes  ilhijlrati<ve  of  Moorifli  Cujloms. — 
Topics  of  Converfatlon  at  MOROCCO. — Horfemanjhip. 
— Mufic  and  Poetry.  — Religion. — Mofqucs. — Slaves. 
— Marriages. — Funerals.—-  Renegadoes.  —  Caravans 
to  MECCA  and  GUINEA. 

TN  a  fortnight  after  the  prince's  departure  all  the 
*•  Engliih  captives  were  ordered  to  Mogodore, 
to  remain  under  the  care  of  a  gentleman  of  that 
place,  till  our  court  fhould  think  proper  to  fend 
for  them.  Deprived  by  this  circumilance  of  the 
fbciety  of  the  captain,  whofe  good  fenfe  and  agree 
able  converfation  leflened  in  a  great  degree  the 
uneafmefs  I  experienced  from  the  irkfomenefs  of 
my  Ikuation,  I  muft  confefs  my  fpirits  did  not 
receive  much  benefit  from  the  change.  My  only 
refource  at  prefent  for  fociety  was  the  French  of 
ficer  whom  I  formerly  mentioned. 

Limited  as  our  lociety  was  to  that  of  each  other, 
there  exifted  a  further  impediment  to  amufement; 
for  we  could  not  leave  the  jewdry  without  being 
faluted  with  repeated  fhowers  of  ftones,  oppro 
brious  names,  and  every  infult  that  bigotry  and 
brutality  could  devife.  The  ignorant  of  every 
nation  are  intolerant;  and  there  can  fcarcely  exift 
a  more  defperate  or  favage  defcription  of  people 
than  the  Lazzaroni  of  Morocco:  they  are  a  mixed 

racef 


TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

race,  confifting  of  the  bafeft  of  the  citizens,  with 
a  number  of  ferocious  mountaineers  and  wild 
Arabs,  who  have  wandered  thither  in  hopes  of 
acquiring  a  fubfiftence  either  by  labour  or  by 
theft. 

The  defcription  indeed  of  a  mingled  race  will 
flill  more  extenfively  apply  even  to  the  more  civi 
lized  inhabitants  of  this  country.  In  the  towns 
particularly,  the  defendants  of  the  different  tribes 
from  which  they  are  fprung  may  ftill  be  traced, 
viz.  thofe  of  the  native  Moors,  of  their  Turkifh 
conquerors,  and  of  the  negroes  who  have  been  in 
troduced  in  the  manner  already  related. 

The  complexion  of  the  two  fir  ft  is  a  fallow 
white,  and  from  this  circumftance,  and  from  their 
intermarrying  with  each  other,  it  is  not  poffible 
always  to  determine  the  origin  of  each  individual; 
I  fhall  therefore  clafs  them  both  under  the  general 
appellation  of  Moors.  But  the  negroes,  though 
they  form  a  large  proportion  of  the  emperor's  fub- 
jefts,  are  now  by  no  means  fo  numerous  as  in  the 
reign  of  Muley  Ifhmacl,  who  firfl  introduced  them 
into  the  country.  They  are  better  formed  than  the 
Moors,  and  as  they  are  more  lively,  daring,  and 
aftive,  they  are  intruded  with  an  important  fhare 
in  the  executive  part  of  government.  They  con- 
flitute  in  fa  ft  the  moft  confiderable  part  of  the 
emperor's  army,  and  are  generally  appointed  to 
the  command  of  provinces  and  towns.  This  cir 
cumftance  naturally  creates  a  jealoufy  between 
them  and  the  Moors,  the  latter  confidering  the 
negroes  as  ufurpers  of  a  power  which  they  have 
no  right  to  affume. 

K4  The 


200  CUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C» 

•  The  negroes  are  blood- 1 hi r fly,  capricious,  and 
revengeful.  As  foldiers  they  manifeft  iufficient 
ardour  when  commanded  by  popular  officers  •,  but 
i,  their  attachment  depends  on  the  generofity  of 
their  chief,  and  the  energy,  feverity*  and  cruelty 
of  his  cifpofition :  if  he  (lackens  in  any  of  theie 
particulars,  they  either  defer t  him,  or  deliver  him 
lip  to  his  enemy. 

Bcfides  the  negroes  which  form  the  emperor's 
anny,  there  are  a  great  many  others  in  the  coun 
ty,  who  either  are  or  have  been  (laves  to  private 
Moors :  every  Moor  of  confequence,  indeed,  has 
1  :lii  proportion  of  them  in  his  lervice.  To  the 
cifgrace  of  Europe,  the  Moors  treat  their  (laves 
•with  humanity,  employing  them  in  looking  after 
their  gardens,  and  in  the  domeftic  duties  of  their 
boufes.  They  allow  them  to  marry  among  them- 
felves,  and  after  a  certain  number  of  years  fpon- 
taneouily  preient  them  with  the  invaluable  boon 
of  liberty.  They  foon  are  initiated  in  the  Maho 
metan  perfuafion,  though  they  fo  me  times  intermix 
with  it  a  few  of  their  original  fuperfHtious  cu£- 
toms.  In  every  other  refpedl  they  copy  the  dreis 
and  manners  of  the  Moors  •,  of  which  I  (hall  en 
deavour  to  give  the  reader  fome  general  idea. 

To  think  juftly  and  with  candour  of  the  Moorifh 
character  we  mud  take  into  our  consideration  the 
natural  effefts  of  a  total  want  of  education,  a 
mod  rigidly  arbitrary  government,  and  a  climate 
calculated,  as  far  as  climate  has  influence,  to  (H- 
mulate  and  excite  the  vicious  paflions,  as  well  as 
by  its  debilitating  and  relaxing  influence  to  wea 
ken  and  deprefs  the  nobler  energies  of  the  mind. 

To 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C,  201 

To  thefe  we  may  add  the  difad vantages  arlfmg 
from  the  want  of  a  free  intercourfe  with  other 
nations,  and  the  influence  of  an  abfurd  and  un 
charitable  religion. 

In  fuch  a  ftate  of  things  the  traveller  is  not  to> 
be  furprifed  if  he  finds  moft  of  the  vices  of  fa- 
vage  nations  grafted  upon  thofe  of  luxury  and 
indolence ;  if  he  obferves  fuperfiiltion,  avarice,, 
and  luft  the  leading  features  of  charadler,  with 
their  natural  concomitants,  deceit  and  jealoufy ; 
he  is  not  to  be  furprized  if  he  finds  but  little  of 
the  amiable  attachments  and  propenfities,  little  of 
friendihip  or  focial  union  with  each  other,  fmce 
the  nature  of  the  government,  and  the  habits  of 
his  private  life,  are  calculated  to  infpire  each  maa 
with  a  diilrufl  and  iufpicion  of  his  neighbour. 

I  will  not  after  t,  however,  that  this  character 
will  univerfally  apply. — However  the  cnftoms  and 
government  of  a  nation  may  militate  againft  virtue 
and  excellence,  there  are  always  fplendid  excep 
tions  to  the  prevalent  vices  of  every  fociety.  There 
are  certainly  among  the  Moors  many  whole  pri 
vate  virtues  would  do  honour  to  any  civilized  na 
tion  ;  but  I  am  forry  to  add,  that  thofe  characters 
are  not  numerous.  Groaning  under  the  fevered 
oppreffions  of  dcfpotiim,  tHey  lofe  all  fpirit  for 
induftry  and  improvements,  and  fufFer  indolence 
and  ignorance  to  reign  without  controul.  Sen- 
fible  of  the  uncertainty  of  enjoying  the  fruits  of 
labour  and  ingenuity,  the  great  majority  of  the 
•  people  remain  content  with  the  bare  neceflaries- 
of  life,  or  when  in  power  endeavour  to  enrich 
themfelves  by  the  fame  means  which  had  before 
kept  them  in  a  Hate  of  poverty.. 

Arts:. 


202  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  Sec. 

Arts  and  fciences  feem  to  be  almoft  unknown 
here,  or,  if 'at  all  cultivated  it  is  only  by  the  Jews, 
who  indeed  are  the  only  induftrious  and  ingenious 
people  in  the  country.  The  Moors  in  general 
may  be  confidered  as  exiting  in  the  paftoral  flate, 
following  only  a  few  mechanical  trades  and  leav 
ing  every  thing  that  requires  invention  to  the 
Jews,  who  have  likewife  the  principal  manage 
ment  of  their  commercial  and  pecuniary  matters ; 
and  even  thofe  few  of  the  Moors  who  are  mer 
chants  are  obliged  to  have  Jew  agents  for  the 
purpofe  of  tranfa6ring  their  bufinefs. 

Fearful  of  having  it  difcovered  that  they  are 
rich,  fooner  than  part  with  money,  which,  under 
fuch  circumltances,  is  of  little  or  no  ufe  to  them, 
they  deprive  themf elves  of  the  luxuries  and  even 
comforts  of  life ;  they  hoard  up  and  conceal  their 
"  treafures,  though  feldom  fo  artfully  but  they  are  . 
at  length  detefted,  and  confequently  plundered  by 
the  bafhaw,  the  prince,  or  the  emperor.  To 
conceal  more  effectually  their  riches,  they  are 
obliged  to  have  recourfe  to  every  form  of  diilirnu- 
lation  and  deceit;  and  being  exerdfed  in  thefe 
qualities  during  the  early  part  of  life,  at  a  more 
advanced  period  they  become  an  eftablilhed  part 
of  their  character. 

The  Moors  are  naturally  of  a  grave  and  penfive 
difpofition,  fervid  in  profeffions  of  friendship, 
but  very  infmcere  in  their  attachments.  They 
have  no  curioflty,  no  ambition  of  knowledge ;  an 
indolent  habit,  united  to  the  want  of  mental  culti 
vation,  renders  them  perhaps  even  more  callous 
than  other  unenlightened  people  to  every  delicate 
fenfatioa,  and  they  require  more  than  ordinary 

excite- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  203 

excitement  to  render  them  fenfible  of  pleafure  or 
of  pain.  It  is  to  this  tircumftance,  and  to  their 
religion,  which  teaches  them  to  impute  every 
thing  to  a  blind  predeftination,  that  we  may  attri 
bute  that  pafiive  obedience  which  the  Moors  diC- 
cover  under  all  their  misfortunes  and  oppreffions. 
This  langour  of  fentiment  is,  however,  unaccom 
panied  with  the  fmalleft  fpark  of  courage  or  for 
titude.  When  in  adverfity  they  manifefl  the  moft 
abjeft  fubmiilion  to  their  fuperiors,  and  in  prof- 
perity  their  tyranny  and  pride  is  irifupportable. 
They  frequently  fmile.but  are  feldom  heard  to  laugh 
loud.  The  moft  infallible  mark  of  internal  tran 
quillity  and  enjoyment  is  when  they  amufe  them- 
felves  with  ftroking  or  playing  with  their  beard. 
When  roufed  by  refentment,  their  difputes  rarely 
proceed  farther  than  violently  to  abufe  each  other 
in  the  moft  opprobrious  language.  They  never 
fight  or  box  with  their  fills,  like  our  peafantry, 
but  when  a  quarrel  proceeds  to  great  extremities, 
they  collar  each  other,  and  fometunes  terminate  a 
difpute  by  afTafli  nation. 

It  has  been  fomewhere  remarked,  that  whatever 
debafes  the  human  fpirit,  corrupts  and  at  the 
fame  time  depraves  the  heart.  That  abjeftnefs 
of  d*fpofition,  which  a  ftate  of  flavery  induces, 
eradicates  every  noble,  every  generous  fentiment. 
The  Moors  are  di(h©nourable  and  unfair  in  all 
their  dealings ;  nor  are  the  greateft  among  them 
exempt  from  propenfities  which  would  difgrace 
the  meaneil  of  the  civilized  inhabitants  of  Europe. 
.When  the  emperor's  army  was  at  Tangier,  one 
of  the  coniuls  invited  the  Moorifh  general  and  his 
particular  friend  to  tea.  Soon  after  their  depar 
ture 


204  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

ture  the  confiil  milled  one  of  his  tea-fpoons,  and 
knowing  the  diipofitions  of  the  Moors,  fent  to 
the  general  for  it ;  who  immediately  returned  it, 
and  fimply  apologized,  by  faying  he  had  put  it 
into  his  pocket  by  miftake. 

When  we  treat  of  national  genius  and  charac 
ter,  it  were  to  be  wifhed  that  language  fupplied 
us  with  fome  term  which  might  ferve  to  indicate 
that  habit  and  cuftom  is  the  great  framer  of  the 
characters  of  nations.  Of  this  truth  there  can  be 
no  flronger  evidence  than  Morocco  affords.  Torpid 
and  infeafible  as  I  have  reprefented  the  Moors  in 
general  to  be,  this  character  is  by  no  means  appli 
cable  to  diem  in  early  life.  In  the  Hate  of  child 
hood  they  pofTefs  an  uncommon  fhare  of  vivacity 
rnd  acutenefs,  but  they  fink  gradually  into  indo 
lence  and  ftnpidity  as  they  advance  in  life.  It  is 
evident,  therefore,  that  to  the  want  of  education 
only  this  circumftaace  is  to  be  attributed.  While 
at  ichool  they  are  fcarcely  lefs  remarkable  for  at 
tention  than  ability ;  and  as  they  commit  their  lei- 
fons  to  memory,  no  imall  fhare  of  application  is 
required.  This  courle  is,  however,  extremely 
limited,  and  continues  for  a  very  fhort  period  \  it 
confifls  at  moft  of  being  inflructed  in  certain  parts 
of  the  Koran,  and  perhaps  learning  to  write. 
After  this  all  attention  to  learning  ceafes ;  'and 
though  their  parents  never  indulge  them,  .yet 
they  are  rarely  chadifed,  and  are  left  to  themfelves 
in  general  almoft  in  a  flate  of  nature. 

A  late  eloquent  writer  has  remarked,  that  "  the 
"  antients  did  not  like  Archimedes,  want  a  fpot 
*<  on  which  to  fix  their  engines,  but  they  .wanted 
**  an.  engine,  to  move  the  moral  world.  The  prds, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

"  is  that  engine." — and  to  the  want  of  it  may 
fairly  be  attributed  the  ignorance,  the  ftupidity, 
the  flavery  of  the  African  nations.  The  art  of 
printing  is  entirely  prohibited  and  unknown  in 
Barbary ;  and,  from  fome  inexplicable  caufe,  moft 
of  the  manufcripts  which  were  poflefled  by  their 
Saracen  anceftors  are  loft  to  the  prefent  genera 
tion  of  Moors.  A  few  indeed  are  flill  in  being, 
which  treat  of  aftronomy,  aftrology,  and  phyfic ; 
but  thofe  on  aftrology  only  are  are  at  prefent 
itudied. 

If  any  thing  could  efFeft  an  important  and  be 
neficial  change  in  thefe  people,  it  would  be  the 
example  of  fome  great  and  magnanimous  mo 
narch,  who  by  fome  fmgular  revolution  might  be 
raifed  to  the  throne  of  Morocco.  In  fo  defpotic 
a  government,  where  religion  confpires  with  ha 
bit  in  teaching  the  fubjeft  to  confider  his  prince 
as  fomething  more  than  man,  much  more  might 
be  effected  by  example,  than  in  a  free  country ; 
where  the  fovereign  is  merely  confidered  as  an  in 
dividual  placed  on  the  throne  for  the  public  good, 
fubjeft  to  all  the  imperfeftions  and  frailties  inci 
dent  to  human  nature,  and  where  the  mind,  by 
being  allowed  a  free  fcope  for  reflection,  difdains 
all  authority  but  that  of  reafon  and  truth. 

The  plan  adopted,  however,  for  the  education 
of  the  princes  of  Morocco,  fo  far  from  tending 
to  the  improvement  of  their  minds,  or  the  en 
largement  of  their  ideas,  ferves  on  the  contrary, 
too  frequently  to  render  them  ftill  more  remark 
able  for  vice  and  brutality  than  even  the  worft  of 
their  fubjecls.  As  foon  as  they  become  of  an  age 
that  readers  it  imprudent  to  truft  them  any  longer 

within 


206  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C- 

within  the  walls  of  the  harem,  they  are  taken  out, 
and  put  under  the  care  of  one  of  their  father's 
confidential  Negroes,  with  whom  they  foon  form 
a  clofe  intimacy,  from  whom  they  imbibe  all  the 
bad  qualities  which  are  infeparable  from  a  flate 
of  llavery,  and  by  whom  they  are  alfo  initiated 
in  vices  of  every  kind,  in  debauchery,  cruelty, 
and  oppreffion.  Their  education  extends  no  fur 
ther  than  to  read  and  write  ^  and  their  knowledge 
of  the  world  is  confined  to  what  they  can  ob- 
ferve  and  learn  in  the  courfe  of  a  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca.  They  are  totally  unacquainted  with  the 
political  hiftory  of  every  foreign  power;  and  their 
knowledge  of  their  own  government  is  confined 
principally  to  its  worfl  parts.  To  acquaint  them- 
lelves  with  the  refources  of  the  country,  and  the 
improvements  which  from  its  fituation  it  would  ad 
mit  of,  or  to  direft  any  part  of  their  attention  to 
thofe  regulations  in  their  government  which  might 
tend  to  the  advantage  and  eale  of  their  fubjefts, 
or  to  their  own  real  aggrandizement,  is  as  much 
out  of  the  line  of  their  education,  as  the  Princi- 
pia  of  Newton.  Thus  they  afcend  the  throne 
with  all  the  prejudices  of  ignorance,  with  all  the 
vices  of  barbarifm,  with  a  pride  that  teaches  them 
to  look  upon  their  fellow  creatures  as  inferior  be 
ings,  and  without  any  fentiments  of  tendernefs, 
companion,  or  true  policy,  to  reftrain  the  arm  of 
defpotifm  from  its  moft  cruel  and  fatal  excejflfes. 
Thus  ill-qualified  in  general  are  the  fovereigns  of 
Morocco  for  efifefting  a  reformation  in  the  man 
ners  and  character  of  their  people. 

The  ignorance  of  the  Moors  is,  however,  no 
bar  to  their  loquacity.     They  {peak  very  loud, 

and 


A  TOU&  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

and  generally  two  or  three  at  a  time,  as  they  are 
not  very  exaft  in  waiting  for  a  reply.  Ufelefs  as 
the  forms  of  politenefs  may  appear  in  the  eye  of 
the  philofopher,  there  are  fome  of  them  which 
probably  conduce  in  no  trifling  degree  to  even 
our  intelleftual  excellence  and  improvement. 

Perfonal  cleanlinefs  has  been  pointed  out  by 
modern  philofophers  as  one  of  thofe  circum- 
flances  which  ferve  to  mark  and  determine  the 
civilization  of  a  people.  It  was  in  vain  that  Ma 
homet  enjoined  the  frequency  of  ablution  as  a  re 
ligious  duty  to  the  Moors.  Their  drefs,  which 
fhould  be  white,  is  but  feldom  wafhed,  and  their 
whole  appearance  evinces  that  they  perform  this 
branch  of  their  religious  ceremonies  in  but  a 
flovealy  manner.  With  this  degree  of  negligence 
as  to  their  peribns,  we  may  be  juftly  furpriled  to 
find  united  a  mod  icrupulous  nicety  in  their  habi 
tations  and  apartments.  They  enter  their  cham 
bers  barefooted,  and  cannot  bear  the  flightefl  de 
gree  of  contamination  near  the  place  where  they 
are  feated.  This  delicacy  again  is  much  confined 
to  the  infides  of  their  houfes.  The  flreets  receive 
the  whole  of  their  rubbilh  and  filth,  and  by  theie 
means  the  ground  is  fo  raifed  in  moft  parts  of  the 
city  of  Morocco,  that  the  new  buildings  always 
ftand  confiderably  higher  than  the  old. 

The  perfons  of  the  Moorifh  men  are  fo  dit- 
guifed  by  their  drefs,  that  it  is  impoffible  to  ac 
quire  any  good  idea  of  their  form  or  proportion, 
In  height  they  are  commonly  above  the  middle 
frze,  and  they  are  rather  meagre  than  fat.  Their 
complexions  in  general  are  fallow  in  the  Northern 
parts  of  the  empire,  but  are  darker  ia  proportion 

to 


208  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

to  their  fituation  towards  the  South.  Their  fea 
tures  have  univerfally  a  great  iamenefs.  Their 
eyes  are  black  and  full,  they  have  an  aquiline 
nofe,  and  in  general  a  good  fet  of  teeth. 

The  drefs  of  the  men  *  confifts  of  a  fhort  linen 
fhirt,  with  large  and  loofe  ileeves  hanging  half 
way  down  to  the  ground.  A  pair  of  loofe  linen 
drawers,  reaching  almoft  to  the  ankle ;  over 
which  they  wear  another  loofe  pair,  made  of 
woollen  cloth.  Over  the^fhirt  they  wear  two  or 
three  woollen  cloth  waiflcoats  of  different  co 
lours,  and  of  European  manufacture  j  thefe  gar 
ments  are  made  full  as  loofe  as  our  great  coats; 
they  are  connefted  before  .by  very  finall  buttons, 
and  are  fattened  tight  round  the  waift  by  a  fiik 
belt.  Over  thefe  waiftcoats  they  throw  a  velvet 
cord,  which  croiTes  the  right  fhoulder,  and  fuf- 
pends  on  the  left  fide  a  curved  dagger  or  knife, 
iheathed  in  a  brafs  cafe.  This  is  the  drefs  the 
Moors  wear  when  in  their  houfes  ;  but  when  they 
go  abroad  they  cover  it  with  the  haick,  a  part  of 
drefs  which  has  been  already  noticed.  It  is  thrown 
over  the  whole  of  their  other  clothing  in  a  care- 
lefs  but  eafy  manner,  fomething  firnilar  to  the 
Scotch  plaid.  When  the  weather  is  wet  or  cold, 
inftead  of  the  haick,  the  Moors  fubftitute  the 
fulam ;  which  is  a  large  hooded  cloak,  reaching 
to  the  heels,  all  of  one  piece,,  and  made  of  blue 
or  white  woollen  cloth  of  European  manufacture, 
without  feams,  cloie  before,  and  ornamented  with 

*  The  drefs,  and  general  remarks  on  the  Moorifh  wo 
men  will  be  introduced  hereafter,  when  we  fpeak  of  th-e 
emperor's  harem. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  209 

£lk  fringes  at  the  extremities,  on  the  bread,  and 
the  ends  of  the  hood,  terminating  with  a  filk  tat 
fel.  The  latter  part  of  the  drefs  is  fixed  on  the 
head  by  means  of  a  ftrong  cord  of  camel's  hair; 
and  among  the  common  people  it  often  iiipplies 
the  place  of  a  cap  or  turban. 

Thofe  Moors  who  have  performed  a  pilgrimage 
to  Mecca  are  entitled  to  wear  a  turban,  and  are 
named  El-hatch.  They  are  always  treated  with 
-peculiar  refpe<ft.  Even  thofe  hearts  of  burden 
indeed  which  have  performed  this  journey  are 
held  in  great  veneration,  and  upon  their  return  are 
exempted  fiom  labour.  The  other  clafs  of  Moors 
•wear  only  plain  red  caps.  The  Moors  in  general 
/have  their  heads  dole,  leaving  on  the  upper  part 
a  fmgle  lock,  and  wear  their  beards  long.  They 
ufe  no  rtockings  or  fhoes,  but  fubftitute  in  the 
place  of  the  latter,  yellow  flippers.  They  are  very 
fond  of  beads,  of  which  the  better  order  always 
carry  a  rofary  in  their  hands  *,  but  they  ufe  them 
more  as  a  matter  of  amufement  than  for  any  religi 
ous  purpofe.  Many  alfo  wear  plain  gold  rings  on 
their  fingers  and  thole  whofe  circumftances  will 
allow  them  to  goto  that  expence,  ppfTefs  likewife 
watches,  which,  like  the  rofary  they  confider 
rather  as  an  ornament  than  an  article  from  which 
any  great  utility  can  be  derived.  Very  few,  in 
fa6l,  are  properly  acquainted  with  their  life. 

This  may  ferve  to  give  fome  idea  of  the  drefs 
of  the  rich ;  but  among  the  poorer  clafs  of  peo 
ple  fome  wear  the  linen  drawers,  fhirt,  and  one 
woollen  waiftcoat,  and  over  it  the  haick;  and 
others  have  merely  a  coarfe  woollen  frock,  belted 
round  the  waift,  and  covered  with  the  haick. 

The 


210  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

The  houfes  in  moil  of  the  towns  in  this  empire 
appear  at  a  little  diftance  like  vaulted  tombs  in  a 
church-yard  •,  and  the  entrance  into  the  belt  of 
them  has  but  a  mean  appearance.  They  are  of  a 
fquare  form,  their  apartments  are  feldom  built 
higher  than  the  ground  floor,  and,  their  outer 
walls  are  univerfally  white-wafhed,  which,  in  the 
fheets  and  particularly  when  the  fun  is  out,  pro 
duce  a  very  unpleafant  fenfation  to  the  eyes.  All 
thefe  circumflances,  united  to  the  want  of  win 
dows,  the  filthinefs  and  irregularity  of  the  flreers, 
the  dirty  appearance  and  rude  behaviour  of  the 
inhabitants,  and  their  total  ignorance  of  every  art 
and  fcience,  leaves  at  fir  A  fight  an  unfavourable 
impreilion  on  the  mind  of  the  traveller,  which 
perhaps  while  he  continues  in  the  country  he  can 
never  do  away.  As  the  roofs  of  the  houfes  are 
all  terraces,  they  ferve  as  wandc^  where  the 
Moorilh  woman  commonly  fit  for  the  benefit  of 
the  air,  and  in  fome  places  it  is  poffible  to  pafs 
nearly  over  the  whole  town,  without  having  oc- 
cafion  to  defcend  into  the  ftreet. 

As  the  befl  apartments  are  all  backwards,  a 
{table,  or  perhaps  fomething  worfe,  is  the  place 
to  which  vifitors  are  firft  introduced.  Upon  en 
tering  the  houfe  the  ilranger  is  either  detained  in 
this  place,  or  in  the  flreet,  till  all  the  women  are 
difpatched  out  of  the  way ;  he  is  then  allowed  to 
enter  a  fquare  court,  into  which  four  narrow  and 
long  rooms  open  by  means  of  large  folding  doors, 
which,  as  they  have  no  windows,  ferve  likewife 
to  introduce  light  into  the  apartments.  The  court 
has  generally  in  its  cente  a  fountain,  and  if  it  is 
the  houfe  of  a  Moor  of  property,  it  is  floored 

with 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  211 

with  blue  and  white  checquered  tiling.  The 
doors  are  ufually  painted  of  various  colours  in  a 
checquered  form,  and  the  upper  parts  of  them 
are  frequently  ornamented  with  very  curtgus  car 
ved  work. None  of  the  chambers  have  fire 
places,  and  their  vidluals  are  always  drefTed  in 
the  court-yard,  in  an  esarthen  ftove,  heated  with 
charcoal. 

When  the  vifitor  enters  the  room  where  he  is 
received  by  the  mafter  of  the  houfe,  he  finds  him 
fitting  crois-legged  and  barefooted  on  a  mattrefs, 
covered  with  fine  white  linen,  and  placed  on  the 
floor,  or  elfe  on  a  common  mat.  This,  with  a 
narrow  piece  of  carpetting,  is  in  general  the  only 
furniture  he  will  meet  with  in  Moorish  houfes  ; 
though  they  are  not  delHtute  of  other  ornaments. 
In  fome,  for  inftance,  he  will  find  the  walls  deco 
rated  with  looking-glafTes  of  different  fizes.  In 
others,  watches  and  clocks  in  glafs  cafes  •>  and  in 
fome  the  apartments  are  hung  with  the  fkins  of 
lions  or  tigers,  or  adorned  with  a  difplay  of  mut 
kets  and  fabres.  In  the  houfes  of  thofe  who  live 
in  the  very  firft  flyle,  an  European  mahogany  bed- 
ftead,  with  one  or  two  mattrrfTes,  covered  with 
fine  white  linen,  is  fometimes  placed  at  each  end 
of  the  room.  Thefe,  however,  are  only  conft- 
dered  as  ornaments,  as  the  Moors  always  fleep 
on  a  matrefs,  or  a  mat  placed  upon  the  floor  and 
covered  only  with  their  haick,  or  perhaps  a 
quilt. 

As  the  law  of  Mahomet  ftriftly  profcribes  the 
life  of  pictures  of  every  defcription,  this  delightful 
fpecies  of  ornament  finds  no  place  in  the  houfes 
of  the  Moors.  I  was  however,  acquainted  with 

a  Moor 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

a  Moor  at  Morocco,  \vho  ufed  to  exhibit  a  raree- 
fhow  to  his  friends  and  acquaintance,  all  of  whom 
appeared  to  exprefs  infinite  furprize  and  admiration 
at  his  exhibition.  This,  indeed,  was  not  the  only 
inftance  in  which  he  was  guilty  of  violating  th'e 
Mahometan  law.  He  icrupled  not  to  drink  very 
freely  his  bottle  of  port  or  claret,  which,  as  it 
was  manufactured  by  Chriftians,  was  from  that 
circumflance  an  aggravated  offence.  He  employed 
me  to  procure  for  him  from  Mogodore  three 
dozen  of  claret,  which  appeared  to  adminiiler 
to  him  infinite  comfort  and  iatisfac~tion.  This  af 
fection  indeed  for  the  productions  of  Europe  made 
him  perhaps  more  than  ufually  favourable  to  its 
natives.  However  this  maybe,  he  was  the  only 
man  who  fhewed  me  much  attention  during  my 
refidence  at  Morocco.  He  repeatedly  took  me 
to  his  houfe,  and  made  me  little  prefents  of  various 
kinds,  which  at  that  place  proved  very  accept 
able. 

When  a  Moor  receives  his  guefts  he  never 
rifes  from  his  feat,  but  fliakes  hands,  enquires 
after  their  health,  and  defires  them  to  fit  down, 
either  on  a  carpet  or  a  cufhion  placed  on  the  floor 
for  that  purpofe.  Whatever  be  the  time  of  day, 
tea  is  then  brought  in  on  a  tea-board  with  fhort 
feet.  This  is  the  higheft  compliment  that  can  be 
offered  by  a  Moor;  for  tea  is  a  very  expenfive  and 
fcarce  article  in  Barbary,  and  is  only  drank  by 
the  rich  and  luxurious.  Their  manner  of  pre 
paring  it  is  by  putting  fome  green  tea,  a  fmall 
quantity  of  tanfey,  the  fame  portion  of  mint,  and 
a  large  portion  of  fugar  (for  the  Moors  drink 
their  tea  very  fweet)  into  the  tea-pot  at  the  fame 

time, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

time,  and  filling  it  up  with  boiling  water.  When 
thefe  articles  are  infufed  a  proper  time,  the  fluid  is 
then  poured  into  remarkably  frnall  cups  of  the  belt 
India  china,  the  fmaller  the  more  genteel,  without 
any  milk,  and,  accompanied  with  fome  cakes  or 
fweatmeats,  it  is  handed  round  to  the  company. 
From  the  great  efteem  in  which  this  beverage  is 
held  by  the  Moors,  it  is  generally  drank  by  very 
fmall  and  flow  fips,  that  is  flavour  may  be  the 
longer  enjoyed;  and  as  they  ufually  drink  a  con-~ 
fiderable  quantity  whenever  it  is  introduced,  this 
entertainment  is  feldom  finifhed  in  lefs  time  than 
two  hours. 

The  other  luxuries  of  the  Moors  are  fnufT,  of 
which  they  are  uncommonly  fond,  and  fmoaking 
tobacco,  for  which  the  greater  part  ufe  wooden 
pipes  about  four  feet  in  length,  with  an  earthen 
bowl;  but  the  princes  or  emperor  generally  have 
the  bowls  made  of  folid  gold.  Inftead  of  the  in 
dulgence  of  opium,  which,  from  the  heavy  duty 
Junpofed  upon  that  article  by  the  emperor,  is  too 
expenfiveto  be  ufed  by  the  Moors,  they  fubftitute 
the  Achicha,  a  fpecies  of  £ax.  This  they  powder 
and  infufe  in  water  in  fmall  quantities.  The 
Moors  afTert,  that  it  produces  agreeable  ideas, 
but  own  that  when  it  is  taken  to  excefs  it  moil 
powerfully  intoxicates._  In  order  to  produce  this 
effect,  they  like  wife  mix  with  their  tobacco  an 
herb,  named  in  this  country  Khaf,  which  by  fmoak- 
ing,  occafions  ail  the  inebriating  effects  of  the 
Achicha.  The  ufe  of  fpirits  as  well  as  wine  is 
jlriftly  forbidden  by  the  Koran;  there  are,  how 
ever,  very  few  among  the  Moors  who  do  not 

joyfully 


714  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

joyfully   embrace  every   private   opportunity  of 
drinking  both  to  excels. 

With  refpedl  to  the  hours  for  eating,  the  peo 
ple  of  this  country  are  remarkably  regular.  Very 
foon  after  day-break  they  take  their  breakfaft, 
•which  is  generally  a  compofition  of  flour  and  water 
boiled  thin,  together  with  an  herb  which  gives  it 
a  yellow  tinge.  The  male  part  of  the  family  eat 
in  one  apartment  and  the  female  in  another.  The 
'children  are  not  permitted  to  eat  with  their  parents, 
but  take  their  meals  afterwards  with  the  fervants  ; 
indeed  in  moft  other  refpefts  they  are  treated  ex- 
aftly  as  fervants  or  (laves  by  their  parents.  The 
mefs  is  put  into  an  earthen  bowl,  and  brought  in 
xipon  a  round  wooden  tray.  It  is  placed  in  the 
centre  of  the  guefts,  who  fit  crofs-legged  either 
on  a  mat  or  on  the  floor,  and  who  form  a  circle 
for  the  purpofe.  Having  previoufly  wafhed  them- 
felves,  a  ceremony  always  performed  before  and 
after  meals,  each  perfon  with  his  fpoon  attacks 
vigoroufly  the  bowl,  while  they  diverfify  the  en 
tertainment  by  eating  with  it  fruit  or  bread.  At 
twelve  o'clock  they  dine,  performing  the  fame 
ceremonies  as  at  brekkfaft.  For  dinner,  from  the 
emperor  down  to  the  peafant,  their  difh  is  univer- 
fally  Cufcofoo,  the  mode  of  preparing  which  has 
been  already  defcribed.  I  believe  I  have  intimated 
more  than  once  that  neither  chairs,  tables,  knives 
or  forks,  are  made  ufe  of  in  this  country.  The 
difh  is  therefore  brought  in  upon  a  round  tray 
and  placed  on  the  floor,  round  which  the  family 
fit  as  at  breakfaft,  and  with  their  fingers  commit 
a  violent  af fault  on  its  contents;  they  are  at  the 

fame 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

fame  time,  however,  attended  by  a  flave  or  do- 
meftic,  who  prefents  them  with  water  and  a  towel 
occafionally  to  wafli  their  hands.  From  the  want 
of  the  fnnple  and  convenient  invention  of  knives 
and  forks,  it  is  not  uncommon  in  this  country  to 
three  ^pr  four  people  pulling  to  pieces  the  fame 
piece" of  meat,  and  afterwards  with  their  fingers 
f  tirring  up  the  pafte  or  Cufcofoo,  of  which  the  of 
ten  take  a  whole  handful  at  once  into  their  mouth. 
Their  manner  of  eating  indeed  was  to  me  fo  di£- 
gufting,  that  though  Cufcofoo  is  in  reality  a  very 
good  difh,  yet  it  required  fome  time  to  get  rid  of 
my  prejudice  fo  far  as  to  be  induced  to  relifli  it. 
At  fun-let  they  fup  upon  the  fame  di(h,  and  indeed 
(upper  is  their  principal  meal. 

Such  is  the  general  mode  of  living  among  the 
principal  people  in  towns.  There  are  confider- 
able  multitudes,  however,  who  do  not  fare  fo 
well,  but  are  obliged  to  content  themfelves  with  a 
little  bread  and  fruit  inftead  of  animal  food,  and 
to  deep  in  the  open  ftreets.  This  kind  of  exigence 
feems  ill  calculated  to  endure  even  in  an  inactive 
flate;  far  more  fevere  mufl  it  therefore  be  to  thofe 
who  exercife  the  laborious  employment  of  couriers 
in  this  country,  who  travel  on  foot  a  journey  of 
three  or  four  hundred  miles,  at  the  rate  of  between 
thirty  and  forty  miles  a  day,  without  taking  any 
other  nouriihment  than  a  little  bread,  a  few  figs, 
and  fome  water,  and  who  have  no  better  fhelter 
at  night  than  a  tree.  It  is  wonderful  with  what 
alacrity  and  perfeverance  thefe  people  perform  the 
mod  fatiguing  journies  at  all  feafons  of  the  year. 
There  is  a  regular  company  of  them  in  every 
town,  who  are  ready  to  be  difpatched  at  a  mo 
ment's 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

merit's  warning  to  any  part  of  the  country  their 
employers  may  have  occafion  to  fend  them.  They 
conftitute  in  this  empire  the  only  mode  of  con 
veyance  for  all  public  and  private  difpatches;  and 
as  they  are  well  known  in  the  place  to  which  they 
belong,  they  are  very  punctual  in  delivering  every 
thing  that  is  put  into  their  hands.  From  their 
fteady  pace  in  travelling,  at  the  rate  of  about  four 
miles  an  hour,  and  from  their  being  able  to  pafs 
over  parts  which  from  the  mountainous  ftate  of 
the  country,  and  from  the  want  of  good  roads, 
perfons  on  horfeback  would  find  inaccelTible,  they 
are  indeed  by  far  the  moft  expeditious  mefTengers 
that  could  be  employed.  As  a  proof  of  the  a- 
mazing  exertions  of  which  they  are  capable,  I 
need  only  mention,  that  there  have  been  repeated 
inflances  of  a  courier  proceeding  from  Morocco 
to  Tangier,  which  is  a  journey  of  about  three 
hundred  and  thirty  miles,  in  fix  days. 

As  none  but  the  very  vulgar  go  on  foot  ia  this 
country,  for  the  purpofe  of  vifiting,  mules  are 
confidered  as  more  genteel  than  horfes;  and  the 
greatefl  pride  of  a  Moor  is  to  have  luch  as  walk 
remarkably  fafl,  and  keep  his  footmen,  of  which 
the  number  is  proportionable  to  the  rank  and  con- 
fequence  of  the  mafter,  on  a  continued  run. 

As  the  Moors  are  not  fond  of  admitting  men 
into  their  houfes,  except  uf  on  particular  occafions, 
if  the  weather  is  line  they  place  a  mat,  and  fome- 
tirnes  a  carpet,  on  the  ground  before  their  door, 
feat  themfelves  upon  it  crofs-legged,  and  receive 
their  friends,  who  form  a  circle,  fitting  in  the 
fame  manner,  with  their  attendants  on  the  out- 
fide  of  the  groupc.  Upon  thcfe  occaficns  they 

either 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C,  217 

cither  drink  tea,  or  fmoke  and  converfe.  The 
Areets  are  fometimes  crowded  with  parties  of  this 
kind;  fome  engaged  at  playing  at  an  inferior  kind 
of  chefs  or  drafts,  at  which  they  are  very  expert-, 
but  the  majority  in  converfation.  The  people  of 
this  country,  indeed,  are  fo  decidedly  averfe  to 
(landing  up,  or  walking  about,  that  if  only  two 
or  three  people  meet,  they  fquat  themfelves  down 
in  the  fir  ft  clean  place  they  can  find,  if  the  con 
verfation  is  to  hold  but  for  a  few  minutes. 

At  Morocco,  when  I  vifited  Muky  On/Tin e, 
one  of  Sidi  Mahomet's  Tons,  I  was  always  received 
in  the  manner  which  I  have  now  described.  I 
found  him  fitting  crofs-legged  on  a  common  mat, 
in  the  fame  open  place  where  his  horfes  were  kept, 
and  his  friends  forming  a  femicircle  round  him, 
I  was  immediately  ctefired  to  form  one  of  the 
groupe,  and  was  helped  to  tea  upon  the  occafion* 
In  the  courfe  of  our  canverfation,  the  prince  told 
me,  that  the  Chriftians  and  Moors  were  brother? » 
that  the  Erigliih  were  very  good  men;  but  that 
he  had  a  particular  averfion  to  the  friars,  for 
they  were  a  determined  fet  of  knaves,  and  were 
neither  friends  to  Chriftians  or  Moors. 

I  found  this  prince  a  hanuiome  young  mail, 
of  about  the  age  of  fix-and-twemy,  of  rather  a 
dark  complexion,  but  accompanied  with  an  open 
and  generous  countenance.  He  had  been  a  few 
years  ago  appointed  to  the  government  of  Tafilet, 
where  he  io  far  gained  tbe  afTeclions  of  the  people 
under  his  government,  that  they  proclaimed  him 
king;  and  he  for  fome  time  gcvci  ned  with  all  the 
independent  authority  of  a  ib  \rcreign.  This  cir- 
cuiDflance  obliged  the  emperor  todiipatchanarmy 
L  againft 


2l3  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

againfl  him,  upon  the  arrival  of  which  he  im 
mediately  furrendered,  and  was  brought  to  Mo 
rocco,  where  he  was  deprived  of  all  his  property, 
as  well  as  his  power;  and  when  I  was  in  the 
country,  he  lived  in  a  very  retired  manner  indeed. 
When  at  Tafilet,  he  had  the  character  of  afting 
very  liberally  towards  every  perfon  with  whom 
he  was  connected ;  at  Morocco  he  manifefted 
ibme  proofs  of  the  fame  diipofition  towards  me: 
merely  for  a  trifling  attention  which  I  (hewed  to 
his  favourite  black,  he  prefented  me  with  a  horfe, 
that  proved  as  good  as  any  of  which  I  had  poflef- 
iion  while  in  the  country. 

The  only  vice  to  which  this  young  man  was  ad- 
difted  was  that  of  drinking  to  a  very  great  excels. 
In  this  refpect,  however,  he  was  not  more  cul 
pable  than  all  the  reft  of  his  royal  brothers.  He 
told  me,  that  if  he  did  not  daily  take  before  dinner 
fix  tumblers  of  aquadent,  a  fpecies  of  brandy 
fornething  weaker  than  fpirits  of  wine,  he  would 
not  be  able  to  hold  up  his  head  the  remainder 
of  the  day.  He  wlflied  to  know  if  this  cuftom. 
was  bad  for  his  health  ;  and  if  ib,  what  I  would 
ad  vile  him  to  do.  I  recommended  to  him  the  dii- 
ufe  of  fpirits,  and  to  fupply  their  place  with 
•wine-,  which  he  might  either  procure  from  the 
European  merchants  at  Mogodore,  or  he  might 
ufe  the  wine  which  was  made  by  the  Jews.  This 
advice,  however,  the  prince  obferved  he  could 
not  follow,  fince  the  Mahometan  law  more  par 
ticularly  forbade  the  uie  of  wine,  than  that  of 
fpirits.  This,  I  replied,  might  be  true,  in  the 
ft  rift  letter  of  the  law;  but  when  wine  was  ufed 
zs  a  medicine,  it  became  no  longer  wine.  This 

idea 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

idea  I  found  fatisfied  the  fcruples  oi*  the  prince, 
and  he  promifed  to  follow  my  advice. 

I  was  afterwards  ftnt  for  to  Muley  Slemma, 
another  of  the  emperor's  fons,  who  with  the  late 
emperor  Muley  Yazid,  \vere  the  offspring  of  a 
woman  whofe  parents  were  Engliih.  This  prince, 
who  is  about  thirty-eight  years  of  age,  and  of  a 
tall  and  majedic  appearance,  with  a  very  expref- 
five  and  lively  countenance,  (hewed  me  uncom 
mon  attention  the  whole  time  I  was  at  Morocco. 
His  paviilion,  where  he  received  flrangers,  and 
tranfafted  bufmefs,  was  fituated  at  the  extremity 
of  a  long  walk,  in  a  garden  of  orange-trees.  It 
confifted  of  one  large  room  on  the  ground  floor, 
fitted  up  in  the  fame  iiile  as  that  of  Muley  Abfulem 
atTarudant.  The  prince  was  fitting  crofs-kgged 
on  a  large  mattrefs,  covered  with  line  white  linen, 
and  placed  on  the  floor  fronting  the  door-way, 
with  his  Moorifh  vifitors  on  each  fide  of  him, 
forming  a  femicircle.  Upon  my  firft  introdu<5Hon 
he  expreffed  uncommon  pleafure  at  feeing  me, 
exclaiming,  Bono,  Bono,  Anglaifi!  and  added,  that 
the  Englilh  were  his  brothers  and  beft  friends. 
I  was  then  directed  to  feel  his  pulle,  and  to  inform 
Mm  whether  or  not  he  was  in  health ;  as  l->on  as 
I  a/lured  him  he  was  perfectly  well,  he  defircd  me 
to  be  feated  on  a  narrow  carpet,  which  was  placed 
on  the  floor  for  the  purpofe,  and  he  then  ordered 
one  of  his  pages  to  bring  in  tea,  though  fo  late  as 
twelve  o'clock  at  noon.  Out  of  compliment  to 
me,  for  the  Moors  feldom  ufe  it,  the  prince  fent 
for  milk,  andfaid,  as  he  knew  the  Englilh  always 
drank  it  with  their  tea,  he  would  prefent  me  with 
•a  milch  cow,  that  I  might  enjoy  the  cuftom  of 
L  2  my 


220  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

my  own  country.  This  promife,  however,  en 
tirely  efcaped  his  royal  highnefs's  memory,  and 
the  cow  never  made  her  appearance. 

In  the  courfe  of  our  converiation,  the  prince 
manifefted  many  indications  of  good-nature  and 
addrefs;  told  me,  that  whilil  he  was  on  his  travels 
in  Turkey,  he  had  been  conducted  from  one  port 
to  another  in  the  Mediterranean  by  an  Engiifli 
frigate,  the  captain  of  which  (hewed  him  io  much 
attention,  that  he  fhould  always  bear  it  in  re 
membrance.  As  foon  as  the  ceremony  of  tea  was 
concluded,  the  prince  ordered  out  his  horie,  which 
\vas  a  very  beautiful  young  animal,  with  a  laddie 
ornamented  with  a  rich  velvet  cover,  and  gold  IHr- 
rups.  He  then  mounted  him,  and  went  through 
all  the  manceuvers  of  managing  a  horie  with 
\vhich  the  moors  are  acquainted,  fuch  as  putting 
him  upon  the  full  fpeed,  and  flopping  him  in- 
itantaneoufly,  rifmg  up  on  the  fad  die  and  firing 
a  mufket  when  the  horie  is  on  the  full  gallop,  Sec. 
in  the  performance  of  all  which  exerciies  he  fee m- 
ed  very  dexterous.  The  prince  then  aiked  me 
if  we  could  do  fuch  things  in  England  \  and  with 
out  waiting  for  a  reply,  ordered  one  of  his  at 
tendants  to  catch  a  fheep  out  of  his  grounds, 
and  take  it  home  to  my  lodgings.  He  iaid,  that 
as  he  always  was  fond  of  feeing  his  brothers  the 
Englifh,  he  wifhed  I  would  viiit  him  twice  a  day 
during  my  continuance  at  Morocco,  and  then 

gallopped  off. But  to  return  to  my  obferva- 

tions. 

The  manner  of  falutation  among  the  Moors 
is,  when  two  equals  meet,  by  a  quick  motion 
they  /hake  hands,  and  afterwards  luis  each  each 

other's 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  22T 

other's  hand.  When  an  inferior  meets  a  fuperior, 
fuch  as  an  officer  of  rank,  a  judge,  or  a  governor, 
he  kifles  that  part  of  his  Haick  which  covers  the 
arm,  and  fometirnes,  as  a  higher  mark  of  refpeft, 
he  will  kiis  his  feet.  Bat  the  compliment  due 
to  the  emperor,  or  any  of  the  princes  of  the  blood, 
is  to  take  off  the  cap  or  turban,  and  to  proftrate 
the  head  to  the  ground.  When  two  particular 
friends  or  relations  meet,  they  anxiouily  embrace 
and  kiis  each  other's  faces  and  beards  for  a 
few  minutes,  make  a  number  of  enquiries  about 
the  health  of  each  party,  as  well  as  that  of 
their  families,  but  feldcm  allow  time  for  a  reply. 
The  common  topics  for  converfation  among 
thefe  people,  are  the  occurrences  of  the  place, 
religion,  their  women,  and  their  hories.  As 
curiofity  is  a  quality  which  naturally  attaches  to 
all  indolent  people,  it  may  eafily  be  conjectured 
that  the  Moors  are  not  deficient  in  this  refpeft. 
It  is  incredible  with  what  avidity  they  lay  hold  of 
any  trifling  circumftance  which  may  occur  in  the 
neighbourhood 5  what  pleafure  and  what  pride 
they  feem  to  take  in  communicating  it;  nor  are 
they  deficient  in  the  arts  of  magnifying  or  adorn 
ing  the  tale  with  every  addition  which  may  ierve 
to  render  It  more  palatable,  or  give  it  a  greater 
appearance  of  plaufibility. 

Religion  is  alfo  a  favourite  topic;  but  this 
fubjeft  is  confined  principally  to  thofe  focietie.s 
which  are  frequented  by  their  Talbs,  or  men 
of  letter?.  As  thefe  gentlemen,  however,  are 
not  a  little  protid  of  their  acquirements  in  reading 
and  writing,  they  do  not  fail  to  embrace  every, 
opportunity  of  manifefting  their  fuperiority  over 
L  3  '  thole 


222  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &.C.. 

thofe  who  are  not  fo  happy  as  to  be  (Mingm/lied 
by  thole  accomplifhments. 

Decency  of  manners  and  delicacy  in  converfd- 
tion  are  among  the  moft  certain  marks  of  refine 
ment  and  civilization,  and  the  contrary  vices  are 
equally  univerfal  charafteriftics  of  ignorance  and 
barbarifm..  The  converfation  of  the  Moors  con-, 
cerning  their  women  is  of  the  moft  trifling  and 
difgufting  defcription,  and  confifts  of  abfurd  and 
vulgar  obfervations,  equally  repugnant  to  decency 
and  common  fenfe. 

The  fubje6r,  however,  on  which,  like  our 
young  men  of  fafhion  in  England,  they  appe-\r 
moft  calculated  to  fhine,  is  their  horles.  It  would 
indeed  be  truly  difgraceful  not  to  be  accomplifhed 
upon  this  topic,  fince  it  appears  to  occupy,  both 
day  and  night,  by  far  the  greateft  portion  of  their 
attention.  I  have  formerly  intimated  that  thefe- 
animals  are  feldom  kept  in  ftables  in  Morocco. 
rl  hey  are  watered  and  fed  only  once  a  day,  the 
former,  at  one  o'clock  at  noon,  and  the  latter  at 
iun-ict  ;  and  the  only  mode  which  they  uie  to  clean 
them,  is  by  wafliing  them  all  over  in  a  river  two 
or  th.ree  times  a  week,  and  fniTering  them  to  dry 
themfelves. 

Notwithftanding  the  attachment  which  the 
Moors  manifeft  to  their  nodes,  they  moft  certain 
ly  ufe  them  with  great  cruelty.  Their  higheft 
pleafbre,  and  one  of  their  fir-ft  accomplifhmtnts, 
is,  by  means  of  long  and  fharp  fpurs  to  make  the 
horfe  go  full  fpeed,  and  then  to  ftop  him  infian- 
taneoufly ;  and  in  this  they  certainly  manifeft 
uncommon  dexterity.  The  iron-work  of  their 
bridles  is  fo  conflru.£l:ed  that  by  its  preflure  on  the 

hoiie's. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  8CC. 

horfe's  tongue  artd  lower  jaw,  with  the  lead  exer 
tion  of  the  rider  it  fills  his  month  full  ot  blood, 
and  if  not  ufed  with  the  utmoil  caution  throws 
him  inevitably  on  his  back.  The  bridle  has  only 
a  fmgle  rein,  which  is  fo  very  long  that  it  ferve* 
the  purpofe  of  both  whip  and  bridle.  The 
Moorifh  faddle  is  in  ibme  degree  fimilar  to  the 
Spanifh,  but  the  pummel  is  ftill  higher  and  more 
peaked.  Their  ftirrups,  in  which  they  ride  very 
ihort,  are  fo  formed  as  to  cover  the  whole  of  the 
foot.  They  either  plate  or  gild  them,  according 
to  the  dignity,  opulence,  or  fancy  of  the  poi- 
feflbr.  .  Their  laddies,  which  are  covered  with 
red  woollen  cloth,  or,  if  belonging  to  a  perfon 
of  confeqnence,  with  red  fa  tin  or  damafk,  are 
fattened  with  one  ftrong  girth  round  the  body, 
in  the  European  ftyle,  and  another  round  the 
{boulders. 

The  Moors  frequently  amufe  themfelves  by 
riding  with  the  utmoft  apparent  violence  againft  a 
wall  5  and  a  fcranger  would  conceive  it  impoffible 
for  them  to  avoid  being  darned  to  pieces,  when 
juft  as  the  horfe's  tpad  touches  the  wall,  they 
flop  him  with  the  utmoft  accuracy.  To  ftrangers 
on  horfeback  or  on  foot  it  is  alfo  a  common  fpecies 
of  compliment  to  ride  violently  up  to  them,  as  if 
intending  to  trample  them  to  pieces,  and  then  to 
ftop  their  horfes  fhort  and  fire  a  mufquet  in  tleir 
faces.  This  compliment  1  have  experienced,  and 
could  very  well  have  difpenfed  with  their  polite- 
nefs.  Upon  theie  occafions,  they  are  very  proud 
in  difcovering  their  dexterity  in  horfemaafhip, 
by  making  the  animal  rear  up,  fo  as  almofl  to 
throw  him  on  his  back,  putting  him  immediately 
L  4  after 


224  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &c. 

after  on  the  full  fpeed  for  a  few  yards,  then  (top 
ping  him  inftanti'neoudy,  and  all  this  is  accom 
panied  by  loud  and  hollow  cries. 

There  is  another  favourite  amufement,  which 
diiplays  perhaps  iuperior  agility : — A  number  of 
perfons  on  horfeback  {tart  at  the  fame  moment, 
raid  accompanied  with  loud  fhouts,  gallop  at  full 
fpeed  to  an  appointed  fpot,  when  they  {land  up 
flraight  in  the  ftirrups,  put  the  rein,  which  I  have 
jnll  obferved  is  very  long,  in  their  mouths,  level 
their  pieces  and  fire  them  ofF^  throw  their  fire 
locks  immediately  over -their  right  (boulders,  and 
flop  their  horfes  nearly  at  the  fame  inftant.  This 
I  am  told,  is  their  manner  of  engaging  in  an 
acHon. 

Though  I  am  willing  to  allow  the  Moors  the 
merit  of  fitting  a  horie  well,  and,  as  far  as  is  ne- 
cuTary  fcr  the  above-mentioned  exercife,  of  having 
a  great  command  over  him,  yet  their  horfes  are 
ili-bred,  and  they  entirely  neglect  to  teach  them 
thole  paces  which  in  Europe  are  cofllMered  as 
the  moil  agreeable  for  the  common  purpofes  of 
riding.  As  none  of  thefe  a^imds  in  Morocco  are 
geldings,  and  as  the  Moors  are  unacquainted  with 
the  ufe  of  the  ring,  they  are  obliged  to  break  them 
in  when  very  young,  by  taking  them  long  and 
fatiguing  journies,  particularly  over  the  moun- 
taitious  and  rocky  part  of  the  country,  where 
they  foon  reduce  their  fpirit ;  they  then  take  the 
opportunity  of  teaching  them  to  rear  up,  (land 
fire,  gallop,  and  flop  fhort  in  the  manner  already 
related ;  and  having  accomplifned  this  they  are 
iatisfied  without  any  farther  qualification.  For 
this  reafon  a  Barbary  hcrfe  feldom  cau  perform 

any 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  22$ 

any  other  pace  than  a  full  gallop  or  a  walk ;  and 
from  being  broken  in  and  worked  hard  before 
they  have  acquired  their  full  ftrength,  thefe  horfes 
in  a  very  few  years  become  unfit  for  fervice.  The 
Moors  feldom  ride  the  mares,  but  keep  them  in 
the  country  for  breeding;  and,  contrary  to  the 
general  opinion  in  Europe,  they  confider  them  fa 
much  more  valuable  than  horfes,  that  they  are 
never  permitted  to  be  exported, 

Like  all  barbarous  nations,  the  Moors  are  pal- 
fionately  fond  of  mufic,  and  fome  few  have  atafte 
for  poetry.  Their  /low  airs,  for  want  of  that  va 
riety  which  is  introduced  when  the  fcience  has  at 
tained  a  degree  of  perfection,  have  a-  very  melan 
choly  famenefs  \  but  fome  of  their  quick  tunes  are 
beautiful  and  fimple,  and  partake  in  fome  degree 
of  the  characleriftic  melody  of  the  Scotch  airs* 
The  poetry  of  their  fongs,  the  conftant  fubjeft  of 
which  is  love,  though  there  are  few  nations  per 
haps  who  are  lefs  feafible  of  that  patfion,  has  cer 
tainly  lefs  merit  than  the  mufic. 

Their  inftruineats  are  a  kind  of  hautboy  which 
differs  from  ours  onlj^in  having  no  keys;  the 
mandoline,  which  they  have  learnt  to  play  upon 
from  their  neighbours  the  Spaniards ;  another 
inftrument  bearing  fome  refemblance  to  a  violin, 
and  played  upon  in  a  fimilar  manner,  but  with 
only  two  {kings ;  the  large  drum,  the  common 
pipe,  and  the  tabor.  Thefe  united  and  acco 
nied  with  a  ceitain  number  of  voices,  upon  many 
occafions  form  a  band,  though  Iblo  mufk  is  more 
common  in  this  unfocial  country. 

Upon  all  days  of  rejoicing,  this  kind  of  mafic, 

repeated  vollies  of  mufquetry,  either  by  men  on. 

hcrfeback  or  on  foot,  and  in  the  evening  a  grand 

L  5  attack 


226  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &O, 

attack  upon  the  Cufcofoo,  conftitute  the  principal 
part  of  the  public  entertainments.  Mountebanks 
and  jugglers  allb  of  every  defcription  meet  with 
great  encouragement  from  the  Moors. 

There  are  no  other  places  of  reception  for  the 
accommodation  of  travellers  in  this  country  ex 
cept  in  their  Fondaks,  which  are  only  to  be  met 
with  in  large  towns.  Thefe  confift  of  a  certain  num 
ber  of  dirty  apartments,  with  no  other  accommoda 
tion  whatever,  but  the  walls  and  roof,  to  proteft 
the  ftranger  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather; 
and  he  m'ufl  fnrnifh  himfelf  with  every  article  of 
which  he  rjaay  be  in  want,  both  in  refpeft  to  prg-. 
viilons  and  bedding.  There  is  at  the  fame  time, 
an  open  court,  where  the  horfes  of  all  travellers 
are  intermixed. 

In  moil:  of  the  towns  there  are  regular  fchools, 
•where  thofe  children  whofe  parents  have  the 
means  of  doing  it,  and  have  fenfe  enough  to  fend 
them  (which  indeed  are  but  few  in  proportion  to 
the  whole)  are  inflrudled  by  the  Talbs  in  reading 
and  writing,  and  fometime.s  in  the  firft  rules  of 
arithmetic.  The  greater  part  of  the  people,  how 
ever,  learn  very  little  mdfce  than  to  read  a  few 
prayers  felefted  from  the  Koran,  which  are  in 
common  ufe,  and  are  written  in  Arabic  characters., 
on  paper  which  is  palled  on  a  board. 

To  fpeak  particularly  on  the  reUgion  of  the 
Moors  would  require  a  volume,  ana: fuch  a  vo 
lume  as  would  certainly  be  more  extenfive  than 
entertaining.  It  is  well  known  they  profefs  the 
Mahometan  faith,  and  I  may  add,  that  they  attend 
very  rigidly  to  all  the  bigotry  and  fuperftion  which. 
is  peculiar  to  that  religion. 

Since 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  22? 

Since  every  ftranger  who  enters  a  mofque  is 
either  put  to  death,  or  is  obliged  to  conform  to 
their  religion,  a  very  exaft  account  of  their  places 
of  worfhip  is  not  to  be  expected  from  an  Euro 
pean.  The  observations  I  made  en  paffant,  the 
doors  which  are  very  large,  being  in  the.  day-time 
always  open,  I  mall  endeavour  to  relate.. 

The  mofque  is  ufually  a  large  fquare  building^, 
compofed  of  the  fame  materials  as  the  houfes> 
confining  of  broad  and  lofty  piazzas,  opening 
into  a  fquare  court,  in  a  manner  iafome  degree 
fimiJar  to  the  Royal  Exchange  of  London.  In  the 
centre  of  the  court  is  a  large  fountain,  and  a  fmall 
ftream  furrounds  the  piazzas,  where  the  Moors 
perform  the  ceremony  of  ablution.  The  court 
and  piazzas  are  floored  with  blue  and  white  chec- 
quered  tiling,  and  the  latter  are  covered  with 
matting,  upon  which  the  Moors  kneel  while  re 
peating  their  prayers.  In  the  moil  confpicuous 
part  of  the  mofque,  fronting  the  Eaft,  {lands  a 
kind  of  pulpit,  where  the  Talb  or  pried  occa- 
fionally  preaches.  The  Moors  alway  enter  this 
place  of  worfhip  barefooted,  leaving  their  flippers 
at  the  door.  On  the  top  of  the  mofque  is  a 
fquare  fteeple  with  a  flag-flaff,  whither  at  Hated 
hours  the  Talb  afcends,  hoifls  a  white  flag  (for 
they  have  no  bells,)  and  calls  the  people  to  prayers, 
repeating  ir*Arabic  three  times,  and  addreffing  him- 
fel£  each  time  to  a  different  part  of  the  town,  How 
great  is  God !  Mahomet  is  his  prophet  /  Come  all  ye 
faithful ;  Come  to  prayer.  From  this  high  fituation. 
the  voice  is  heard  at  a  confiderable  diftance,  and 
the  Talbs  have  a  monotonous  mode  of  enuncia 
tion,,  the,  voice  finking  at  the  end  of  every  fhort. 


2^8"  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

fentence,  which  in  fome  meafure  refembles  the 
found  of  a  bell. 

The  moment  the  flag  is  difplayed  every  perfon 
forlakes  his  employment  and  goes  to  prayers.  If 
they  are  near  a  mofque  they  perform  their  devo 
tions  within  it,  otherwife  immediately  on  the  fpot 
where  they  happen  to  be,  and  always  with  their 
faces  towards  the  Eaft,  in  honour  of  the  prophet 
Mahomet,  who,  it  is  well  known  was  buried  at 
Medina.  The  prayer  which  is.  generally  repeated 
on  thefe  occafions  is  a  chapter  from  the  Koran, 
acknowledging  the  goodnefs  of  God  and  Maho 
met,  and  it  is  accompanied  with  various  geftures,, 
fuch  as  lifting  the  hands  above  the  head,  bowing 
twice,  performing  two  genuflexions,  bowing  again 
twice,  and  kiting  the  ground.  The  whole  of  this 
ceremony  they  repeat  three  times. 

Their  fabbath  is  on  our  Friday,  and  commences, 
from  fix  o'clock  the  preceding  evening.  On  this 
day  they  life  a  blue  flag  in  (lead  of  the  white  one, 
As  it  has  been  prophefied  that  they  are  to  be  con 
quered  by  the  Chriftians  on  the  fabbath  day,  the 
gates  of  all  the  towns  and  of  the  emperor's  palaces- 
are  fhut  when  at  divine  fervice  on  that  day,  in- 
order  to  avoid  being  furprifed  during  that  period,. 
Their  Taibs  are  not  diflinguifhed  by  any  particu 
lar  drefs, 

TheMcors  have  three  folemn  devotiftnal  periods. 
In  the  courfe  of  the  year.  The  firft,  which  is 
named  Aid  de  Cabier,  is  held,  in  commemoration 
of  the  birth  of  Mahomet,  It  continues  ieven 
days,  during  which  period  every  perfon  who  can 
afford  the  expence,  kills  a  fheep  as  a  facrifice,  and 
dividqs  it  among  his  friends.  The  lecond  is  the 

Ramadunv 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Ramadam.  This  is  a  rigorous  faft  or  lent,  held 
at  the  ieafon  when  Mahomet  difappeared  in  his 
flight  from  Mecca  to  Medina ;  and  is  conduced 
by  the  Moors  with  fo  much  fuperftition,  that  for 
thirty  days,  from  fun-rife  to  fun-fet,  they  lay  afide 
all  worldly  acls,  and  devote  their  whole  attention 
to  exercifes  of  piety ;  carefully  abftaining  from 
eating,  drinking,  fmoaking,  wafhing  their  mouths^ 
or  even  fw  allowing  their  faliva ;  and  they  are  in 
dulged  with  their  ufual  cuftom  of  bathing  only5 
upon  condition,  that  they  avoid  fufFering  the  wa 
ter  to  approach  their  heads,  left  any  of  it  fhould 
enter  the  mouth  or  ears.  To  make  amends  for 
this  ftrift  obfervance  of  their  lent  during  the  day, 
they  appropriate  the  whole  night  to  the  indul 
gence  of  every  gratification,  and  at  the  expiration 
of  the  faft,  a  general  feftival  takes  place,  named 
the  Beyran  which  continues  feven  days.  The  third 
is  named  Llafhore,  and  is  a  day  fet  apart  by  Maho 
met  for  every  peribn  to  compute  the  value  of  his 
property,  in  order  for  the  payment  of  Zakat,  that 
is,  one  tenth  of  their  income  to  the  poor,  and  other 
pious  ufes. N  Although  this  feaft  only  lafts  a  finglc 
day,  yet  it  is  celebrated  with  far  greater  magni 
ficence  than  either  of  the  others. 

There  is  alfo  a  fuperftitious  cuftom  among  the 
Moors,  when  any  thing  of  moment  is  to  be 
undertaken,  fuch  as  going  on  a  dangerous  journey 
or  voyage,  the  diipofal  of  their  children  in  mar 
riage,  £c.  for  fo:ne  grave  peribn  to  make  an  har- 
rangue  ro  ; :  c  mtiltiT  r^c,  upon  which  his  auditors 
call  for  the  key  of  direftion.  By  this  is  meant 
the  performance  of  joining  the  hands,  looking 
ftcadfaftly  cu  the  palms  during  the  admonition* 

then- 


^  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &€. 

then  by  a  joint  concurrence  calling  upon  God  and 
and  the  prophet,  and  concluding  the  ceremony  by 
ftroaking  their  faces  with  both  hands,  and  joining 
in  chorus,  faying  Salcm^  Salem,  (peace  be  with 
you)  with  much  c?evotir  : -.  The  due  performance 
of  this  ceremony,  they  conceive  will  enfure  them 
certain  fuccefs  in  a J  their  undertakings. 

The  Moors  compute  time  by  lunar  months,  and 
count  the  days  of  the  week  by  the  firft,  fecond, 
third,  &c.  beginning  from  our  Sunday.  They 
ule  a  common  reed  for  writing,  and  begin  their 
manufcripts  from  right  to  left. 

The  Moors  marry  very  young>  many  of  their 
females  not  being  more  than  twelve  years  of  age 
at  their  nuptials.  As  Mahometans,  it  is  well  known 
that  their  religion  admits  of  polygamy  to  the 
extent  of  four  wives,  and  as  many  concubines  as 
they  pleafe ;  but  if  we  except  the  very  opulent,, 
the  people  feldom  avail  themfelves  of  this  indul 
gence,  fince  it  entails  on  them  a  vail  additional 
expence  in  houfe-keeping  and  in  providing  for.  a 
large  family.  Whatever  inftirution  is  contrary  to 
truth  and  found  morality  will  in  practice  refute 
itfelf ;  nor  is  any  further  argument  than  this  fingle 
obfervation  wanting  to  anfwer  all  the  abfiirdities 
which  have  been  advanced  in  favour  of  a  plurality 
of  wives.  In  contracting  marriage  the  parents  of 
both  parties  are  the  only  agents,  and  the  intended 
bride  and  bridegroom  never  fee  each  other  till  the 
ceremony  is  performed.  The  marriage  fettlements 
are  made  before  the  Cadi,  and  then  the  friends  of 
the  bride  produce  her  portion,  or  if  not,  the  h, -ri 
band  agrees  to  fettle  a  certain  fum  upon  her,  in 
m  cafe  he  fliould  die,  or  divorce  her  on  account  of 

bar. 


TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C,  23! 


s 


barrennefs,  or  any  other  caufe.  The  children  of 
the  wives  have  all  an  equal  claim  to  the  effects  of 
the  father  and  mother,  but  thofe  of  the  concubines 
can  each  only  claim  half  a  fhare. 

When  the  marriage  is  finally  agreed  upon,  the 
bride  is  kept  at  home  eight  days,  to  receive  her 
female  friends,  who  pay  congratulatory  vifits  every 
day.  At  the  fame  time  a  Talb  attends* upon  her, 
to  converfe  with  her  relative  to  the  folemn  engage 
ment  on  which  fhe  is  about  to  enter ;  on  thefe 
occafions  he  commonly  accompanies  his  admoni 
tions  with  ilnging  a  pious  hymn,  which  is  adapted 
to  the  folemnity.  The  bride  alfo  with  her  near 
relations  go  through  the  ceremony  of  being  paint 
ed  afrefh  ;  the  nature  of  which  cuftom  I  fhall 
defcribe  when  I  fpeak  of  the  harem. 

During  this  procefs  the  bridegroom  on  the  other 
hand  receives  vifits  from  his  male  friends  in  the 
morning,  and  in  the  evening  rides  through  the 
town  accompanied  by  them,  fome  playing  on 
hautboys  and  drums,  while  others  are  employed 
in  firing  volleys  of  mufquetry.  In  all  their  fefti- 
vals  the  difcharge  of  mufquetry  indeed  forms  a 
principal  part  of  the  entertainment.  Contrary  to 
the  European  mode,  which  particularly  aims  at 
firing  with  exaftnefs,  the  Moors  difcharge  their 
pieces  as  irregularly  as  poffible,  fo  as  to  have  a 
continual  fucceffion  of  reports  for  a  few  minutes. 

On  the  day  of  marriage,  the  bride  in  the 
evening  is  put  into  a  fquare  or  oclagonal  cage, 
about  twelve  feet  in  circumference,  which  is 
covered  with  fine  white  linen,  and  fometimes  with 
gauzes  and  filks  of  various  colours.  In  this  ve 
hicle  which  is  placed  on  a  mule,  fhe  is  paraded 

round 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

round  the  ftreets  accompanied  by  her  relations 
and  friends,,  fome  carrying  lighted  torches,  others 
playing  on  hautboys,  and  a  third  party  again  firing 
vollies  of  mufquetry. 

In  this  manner  fhe  is  carried  to  the  houfe  of  her 
intended  hufband,  who  returns  about  the  fame 
time  from  performing  fimiiar  ceremonies.  On  her 
arrival  £he  is  placed  in  an  apartment  by  herfelf, 
and  her  huiband  is  introduced  to  her  alone  for 
the  firfl  time,  who  finds  her  fitting  on  a  filk  or 
velvet  cufhionj,  fuppofmg  her  to  be  a  perfon  of 
confequence,  with  a  linail  table  before  her,  upon 
which  are  two  wax  candles  lighted.  Her  (hi ft, 
or  more  properly  ihirt,  hangs  clown  like  a  train 
behind  her,  and  over  it  is  a  filk  or  velvet  robe 
with  clofe  ileeves,  which  at  the  breaft  and  wrifts 
is  embroidered  with  gold  ;  this  dreis  reaches 
fomething  lower  than  the  calf  of  the  leg.  Rewind 
her  head  is  tied  a  black  filk  fcarf,  which  hangs 
behind  as  low  as  the  ground.  Thus  attired,  the 
bride  fits  with  her  hands  over  her  eyes,  when 
her  hufband  appears  and  receives  her  as  his  wife,. 
without  any  further  ceremony  * :  for  the  agree 
ment  made  by  the  friends  before  the  Cadi  is  the 
only  fpecific  contract  which  is  thought  neceflary. 

If  the  hufband  fhould  have  any  reafon  to  fufpeft 
that  his  wife  has  not  been  ftriftly  virtuous,  he 
is  at  liberty  to  divorce  her  and  take  another.  For 
fome  time  after  marriage  the  family  and  friends 

*  Interim  duae  miniftrse  negrae  exfpeclant  foris,  ut  no- 
titiam  habeant  coHfumimtionis;  quod  cum  pro  certo  cog- 
noverint  cantos  buccinaruiiij  &  bombardarum  emiffio  fac- 
turn  annunciant* 

arc 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  £c.  233 

are  engaged  in  much  feafting  and  a  variety  of 
amuiements,  which  laft  a  longer  or  fnorter  time^ 
according  to  the  circumftances  of  the  parties.  It 
is  uiuaily  cuftomary  for  the  man  to  remain  at 
Jhome  eight  days,  and  the  woman  eight  months 
after  they  are  fir  ft  married;  and  the  wroman  is  at 
liberty  to  divorce  her felf  from  her  hufband  if  fhe 
can  prove  that  he  does  not  provide  her  with  a 
proper  fubfiltence,  If  he  curfes  her,  the  law 
obliges  him  to  pay  her,  for  the  fir  ft  offence, 
eight  ducats,  for  the  fecond,  a  rich  drefs  of  (till 
greater  value;  and  the  third  time  fhe  may  leave 
him  entirely.  He  is  then  at  liberty  co  marry  again 
in  two  months. 

At  the  birth  of  a  child,  it  is  cuftomary  for  the 
parents  to  grieve  eight  days,  at  the  expiration  of 
which  they  facrifice  a  goat  or  a  (heep,  and  in 
vite  their  friends  and  acquaintance  to  partake  of 
the  feaii.  Women  lufFer  but  little  inconvenience 
in  this  country  from  child-bearing;  they  are  fre 
quently  up  the  next  clay,  and  go  through  all  the 
duties  of  the  houfe  with  the  infant  on  their  backs, 
They  do  not  adopt  the  method  of  teaching  their 
children  to  walk  which  is  cuftomary  in  Europe, 
but  when  they  are  twelve  months  old  they  put 
them  on  the  floor,  where  from  firft  crawling  they 
naturally  in  a  (hort  time  acquire  the  habit  of -walk 
ing,  and  as  focn  as  they  can  be  made  in  the  leaft 
degree  ufeful,  they  are  put  to  the  various  kinds  of 
labour  adapted  to  their  age  and  ftrength.  Others, 
whofe  parents  are  in  better  circumftances,  are, 
as  I  before  obferved3  fometimes  fent  to  fchool; 
and  thofe  who  are  intended  for  the  church  ufual- 
ly  continue  their  ftudies  till  they  have  nearly 

learnt 


234  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

learnt  the  Koran  by  rote.  In  that  cafe  they  arc 
enrolled  among  the  Talbs  or  learned  men  of  the 
law  ;  and  upon  leaving  fchool  are  paraded  round 
the  flreets  on  a  horfe,  accompanied  by  mafic  and 
a  large  concourfe  of  people.  The  proceffton  is 
conducted  in  the  following  manner.  Upon  the 
day  appointed,  one  of  the  mo  ft  fhewy  hories  in 
the  place  is  procured  for  the  youth  to  ride  on, 
\vho  if  he  is  a  perfon  of  confequence,  is  drefr,  in 
all  the  gaiety  which  filks  and  brocades  can  afford, 
wearing  a  turban  richly  ornamented  with  gold  and 
jewels,  and  interiperied  with  flowers.  Thus  ar 
rayed,  he  mounts  his  horfe,  which  alfo  is  not  with* 
out  its  decorations,  carrying  in  his  hand  his  pray* 
ers  palled  on  a  board,  on  which  he  locks  with 
ftedfait  attention ;  and  he  proceeds  with  all  the 
fedatenefs  and  compofed  gravity  of  old  age  to  the 
different  places  appointed  for  the  purpofe,  ac 
companied  by  mufic,  and  all  his  fchool-fellows 
on  horfeback, .  drefTed  according  to  their  circum- 
frances.  At  laft  they  meet  at  the  houfe  of  the 
head  boy  of  the  fchool,  where  they  are  treated 
•with  a  collection  of  fweatmeats.  This  cuflom, 
which  is  evidently  adopted  with  a  view  of  pro 
moting  an  emulation  in  their  youths,  is  one  of  the 
very  few  good  inftitutions  which  are  obfervable 
among  thele  people. 

In  celebrating  the  rite  of  circumcifion,  the  child 
is  dreffed  very  fumptuoufly  and  carried  on  a  mule, 
or,  if  the  parents  are  in  poor  circumftances,  on 
an  afs,  accompanied  with  flags  flying  and  muficians 
playing  on  hautboys  and  beating  drums.  In  this 
manner  they  proceed  to  the  mofque,  where  the 
ceremony  is  performed. 

When 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

When  any  perfon  dies,  a  certain  number  of 
women  are  hired  for  the  purpofe  of  lamentation 
(for  the  men  are  feldom  obferved  to  weep  for  the 
lofs  of  a  friend)  in  the  performance  of  which  no 
thing  can  be  more  grating  to  the  ear,  or  more 
unpleafant>  than  their  frightful  moans  or  rather 
bowlings :  at  the  fame  time  thele  mercenary  mourn 
ers  beat  their  heads  and  breafls,  and  tear  their 
cheeks  with  their  nails.  The  bodies  are  ufually 
buried  a.  tew  hours  after  death.  Previous,  to  in 
terment  the  cor  pfe  is  \v  allied  very  clean,  and  lew- 
ed  up  in  a  fliroud  compofed  of  {even  pieces  of 
fine  linen  united  together,  with  the  right  hand 
under  the  head,  which  is  pointed  towards  Mecca; 
it  is  carried  on  a  bier  fupported  upon  men's 
flioulders  to  the  burying-place,  which  is  always, 
with  great  propriety,  on  the  outfide  of  the  town, 
for  they  never  bury  their  dead  iri  the  mofques  or 
within  the  bounds  of  an  inhabited  place.  The  bier 
is  accompanied  by  numbers  of  people,  two  a- 
breaft,  who  walk  very  fail:,  calling  upon  God 
and  Mahomet,  and  Tinging  hymns  adapted  to  the 
occafion.  The  grave  is  made  very  wide  at  the 
bottom,  and  narrow  at  the  top,  and  the  body  is 
depofited  without  any  other  ceremony  than  fmging 
and  praying  in  the  fame  manner  as  on  their  way  to 
the  grave. 

They  have  no  tombs  in  this  country,  but  long 
and  plain  flones-,  and  it  is  frequently  cuftomary 
for  the  female  friends  of  the  departed  to  weep 
over  their  graves  for  feveraldays  after  the  funeral. 
The  Moors  will  not  allow  Chriftrans  or  Jews  to 
pafs  over  their  places  of  interment;  as  they  have 
-4  fuperftitiQus  idea,  which  is  perhaps  more  pre 
valent. 


236  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Talent  among  the  lower  clafs  of  people,  than  thofe 
who  are  better  informed,  that  the  dead  fuffer 
pain  from  having  their  graves  trodden  upon  by 
infidels;  and  I  recollect  when  at  Tangier,  I  re- 
ceceived  a  very  levere  rebuke  from  a  Moor,  for 
accidentally  having  paffed  through  one  of  their 
burying  grounds. 

When  a  women  lofes  her  hufband  fne  mourns 
four  months  and  eight  days,  during  which  period 
fhe  is  to  wear  no  iilver  or  gold-,  and  if  (he  hap 
pens  to  be  pregnant,  fhe  is  to  mourn  till  fhe  is 
brought  to  bed.  For  the  above  time  the  relations 
of  her  late  hufband  are  obliged  to  fupport  her. 
I  could  not  learn  that  any  mourning  was  due  from 
the  huiband  for  the  lofs  of  his  wife*,  but  it  is 
cuftomary,  particularly  among  the  great  people, 
for  a  fon  to  mourn  for  his  father  by  not  (having 
his  head  or  any  part  of  his  beard,  and  by  not 
cutting  his  nails  for  a  certain  period. 

When  a  Jew  cr  a  Chriftian  is  converted  to  the 
Mahometan  faith,  he  is  immediately  drefTed  in  a 
Mooriih  habit,  and  paraded  round  the  ftreets  on 
horkback,  accompanied  with  rnufic  and  a  great 
concourfe  'of  people.  He  then  chufes  himielf  a 
Moorifh  name,  and  fixes  on  a  peribn  who  adopts 
him  as  a  child,  and  is  ever  afterwards  called  his 
father.  This  adoption,  however,  is  only  norninalj 
for  he  is  by  no  means  bound  to  fupport  him. 
The  new  convert  is  not  allowed  to  marry  any 
other  woman  than  a  negro,  or  the  daughter  of 
a  renegado-,  and  his  descendants  are  not  con- 
ficlered  as  genuine  Moors  till  the  fourth  genera 
tion. 

The 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,,  &C.  237 

The  renegadocs  in  the  empire  of  Morocco  are 
principally  Spaniards,  though  there  are  ibme  few 
of  other  nations  in  the  country,  who  have  deferted 
from  Ceuta  or  Spain,  to  avoid  the  hand  of  juftice 
for  fome  capital  crime  or  mifdemeanor — common 
ly,  indeed,  murder,  I  met  with  many  of  thefe 
people  at  Morocco,  who  frankly  acknowledged 
to  me  that  murder  had  been  the  caule  of  their 
defertion.  Though  the  emperor  may  for  various 
reaibns  find  it  convenient  to  countenance  rene- 
gadoes,  yet  the  Moors  in  general  fo  thoroughly 
deteft  them,  that  they  cannot  be  induced  upon 
any  terms  to  allow  them  to  form  a  part  of  their 
fociety. 

I  cannot  better  conclude  this  feftion  than  by 
fubmitting  to  the  reader  the  following  account  of 
the  caravans  to  Mecca  and  Guinea,  which  I  re 
ceived  from  a  gentleman  refident  in  Barbary, 
on  whofe  veracity  I  could  place  the  utmoil  con 
fidence. 

Seven  Months  before  the  feaft  Aid  de  Cabier, 
or  the  commemoration  of  the  birth  of  Mahomet, 
pilgrims  from  every  quarter  afTcmble  at  Fez,  in 
order  to  join  the  caravan  which  at  that  feafon 
proceeds  for  Mecca.  They  are  compofed  of  three 
clafles  of  people. — Firft,  The  mountaineers,  named 
Brebes:  Secondly,  The  Mooriih  merchants:  and, 
Thirdly,  Perfons  in  public  employments,  or  who 
are  engaged  about  the  court  of  the  emperor.  Thus 
religion  and  intereft  confpire  to  draw  together  a 
large  and  motely  groupe,  and  to  induce  them  to 
undertake  a  journey  which  is  as  fatiguing  and 
dangerous  as  it  is  expeniivtc. 

The 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

The  firft  clafs  are  not  required  to  a(k  permiffion 
to  join  the  caravan.  The  fecond  are  obliged  to 
prefent  themfelves  to  their  refpeftive  governors, 
as  well  to  avoid  the  inconveniences  of  debts  on 
their  own  account,  as  on  that  of  their  families, 
who  might  be  fubjeft  to  be  molefted  by  credi 
tors  during  their  abfence.  If  a  merchant  has  the 
leaft  connection  with  the  court,  it  is  ex.pe6l.ed 
that  he  will  alfo  prefent  to  the  emperor,  who, 
as  he  feels  himfelf  dilpofed,  grants  or  refufes  him 
permiffion  to  enter  upon  the  journey.  Thofe  of 
the  third  clafs  muft  have  an  exprefs  permiffion 
from  the  emperor,  who  never  allows  any  to 
go  whofe  circumftances  will  not  fufficiently  en 
able  them  to  defray  the  expences  of  the  pilgri 
mage. 

As  there  are  two  modes  of  performing  this 
pilgrimage,  by  fea  and  by  land,  thofe  who  prefer 
the  former  are  fubjefted  to  an  examination  by 
the  governor  of  the  port  whence  they  embark, 
to  fee  that  they  pay  the  freight  of  the  vefTel,  and 
to  inform  himfelf  whether  they  have  iufficient 
means  to  go  and  return  from  this  facred  objeft 
of  Mahometan  devotion,  without  being  under  the 
neceffity  of  borrowing,  or  being  fufpefted  of  ufmg 
any  bale  and  difhonourable  means  of  obtaining  a 
fubfiftence.  Thofe  who  proceed  by  land  are 
liable  to  be  examined  alfo,  but  not  ib  rigoroufly 
as  the  others;  the  Shaik  of  the  caravan  hiving 
the  power  to  punifh  thofe  who  are  guilty  of  any 
irregularities. 

The  place  whence  the  caravan  fets  out  by  land, 
is  from  Teza,  a  town  in  the  province  of  Tedla, 
forae  diflunce  to  the  Eaft  of  the  city  of  Fez,  the 

latter 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  £39 

latter  being  the  firft  place  of  rendezvous.  At 
Fez,  the  moil  commercial  city  in  the  whole  empire, 
and  abounding  with  provifions  of  every  defcrip- 
tion,  each  peribn  fur  nifties  himfelf  in  the  beft  man 
ner  he  is  able,  according  to  his  rank  and  circum- 
flances,  with  a  iufficient  fupply  to  laft  till  he 
reaches  Tripoli  or  Tunis  at  leaft. 

This  grand  caravan  is  always  accompanied  by 
many  others,  of  which  one  goes  to  Algiers,  another 
to  Tunis,  and  a  third  to  grand  Cairo,  &c.  Thofe 
perfons  who  go  t>  Algiers  and  Tunis  are  not 
under  the  neceflity  of  afking  permiflion,  as  they 
are  perfons  who  are  accuftomed  to  carry  on  a 
trade  with  thofe  two  places  ;  whence  they  return 
with  a  quantity  of  their  refpedlive  manufactures. 
The  caps  of  Tunis  are  of  great  ufe  in  the  empire 
of  Morocco,  and  their  filks  alfo  fell  at  a  very 
good  price,  though  upon  the  whole  thofe  of  Al 
giers  are  preferable  for  the  girdles  ufed  by  the 
Moors,  curtains,  women's  drefs,  and  furniture  for 
beds  and  rooms.  The  manufactures  indeed  of  both 
Algiers  and  Tunis  are  brought  to  a  greater  perfec 
tion  than  thofe  of  Moracco.  The  merchants  who 
go  upon  thefe  expeditions  carry  with  them  ready 
money,  Haicks  and  flippers,  which  are  the  munu- 
faftures  of  Morocco,  and  difpoi'e  of  the  two  laft 
articles  to  the  Arabs  and  inhabitants  of  the  towns 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Algiers  and  Tunis,  who, 
though  they  do  not  wear  the  Haick  as  a  part  of 
their  drefs,  yet  make  ufe  of  them  for  a  variety  of 
other  purpofes. 

Some  time  within  the  fir  ft  fifteen  days  of  the 
month  Jumeth  Tenii,  every  proper  preparation 
being  previoufly  made,  the  grand  caravan  fets  of? 

from 


240  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

from  Teza  in  the  following  order : — After  having 
invoked  the  true  and  fole  God  and  his  prophet 
Mahomet,  to  give  every  benediction  to  this  iacred 
journey,  they  ail  meet  near  the  tent  of  the  chief 
conductor,  who  is  named  in  Arabic  Scheck  Re 
beck,  and  commence  their  devotions  to  the  found 
of  clarinets,  tabors,  &c.  The  unloaded  camels 
and  mules  aie  then  full  put  in  motion,  attended 
by  the  cooks,  watermen,  &c.  Next  to  this  party 
follow  thoie  who  travel  on  foot,  either  from  devo 
tion  or  neccflisy;  to  "Vfe  i-  entrufled  the  care  of 
the  loaded  mules  and  camels.  Ana  the  rear  is 
brought  up  by  thole  who  are  mo-inted  cither  on 
horfes  or  mulen.  The  caravan  is  put  iu  motion 
at  fun-rife,  {tops  at  tve;  ••'•:-  p'elock  at  noon  to 
dine,  and  about  four  hi  th  oon  the  people 

encamp  in  the  lame  manner  y  did  at  Teza. 

The  courie  which  they  tale  1  through  the  in 
terior  parts  of  the  country,  leaving  Tremecen, 
Algiers,  and  Tunis  to  their  lci>.  Some  of  them, 
indeed,  make  excufions  to  the  two  larter  places, 
and  afterwards  join  the  oinvan.  !>y  tbefe  means 
they  are  enabled  both  to  obi  am  a  frcfli  f  apply  of 
provifions  for  thernfelve^  ana  beafh,  and  1.0  iell 
to  the  Arabs  Haicks,  flippers,  and  old  caps,  for 
which  they  ufually  receive  a  very  good  prce:  and 
the  profits  enable  them  frequently  to  make  advan 
tageous  purchafes  at  Mecca.  Alexandria,  and 
Cairo. 

Upon  their  arrival,  after  a  journey  of  two 
months  and  a  half,  at  that  \  irt  of  tl  ,  ica-couil 
where  the  tower  of  SaLacs  !.->  i,  -lat.fd,  and  whi  h 
is  about  half  a  days  ride  "rom  the  city  ofTr-fuii, 
they  refl  themfelves  ten  daya.  At  this  place  all 
i  the 


A  Touit  TO  MOROCCO,,  &c-  241 

the  pilgrims  fuppiy  themfelvcs  with  forty  or  fifty 
days  provifions,  which  is  generally  diffident  to 
fupport  them  to  Alexandria  or  Grand  Cairo;  and 
on  their  return  they  pur  chafe  in  the  neighbour 
hood  of  Tunis  and  Tripoli  a  large  fuppiy  of  mutes, 
frequently  giving  only  twenty-five  hard  dollars 
for  what  they  afterwards  fell  in  Morocco  for 
eighty  or  an  hundred. 

From  the  tower  of  Salines  they  continue  their 
route  as  far  as  Alexandria  and  Grand  "Cairo, 
where  they  furnifh  themfelves  in  the  fame  manner 
as  at  Tripoli,  with  diffident  provifions  for  the 
remainder  of  the  journey,  which  requires  al* 
together  near  feven  months  to  accomplish.  To 
thole  who  undertake  this  journey  for  the  purpole 
of  trade,  it  generally  aniwers  extremely  well. 
By  purchafing  goods  at  one  place,  and  felling 
them  at  another,  they  contrive  to  make  upon  eacii 
file  a  profit  of  ten  per  cent. 

The  Arabs  from  Fez  as  far  as  Alexandria  and 
Grand  Cairo,  though  a  rude  clafs  of  people,  are 
very  warmly  attached  to  their  religion,  and  on  that 
account  give  the  pilgrims  a  friendly  reception, 
furnifliing  them  with  barley,  butter,  eggs,  mutton, 
beef,  &c.  From  that  place,  however,  to  Mecca 
the  route  is  not  fo  eafy,  as  the  Arabs,  inftead  of 
the  benefactors,  frequently  become  the  plunderers 
of  thefe  holy  travellers.  On  thefe  occafions  they 
fpare  nothing,  and  leave  them  not  So  much  as  th<e 
neceffaries  of  life 5  particularly  if  they  refufe  the 
contributions  which  they  udially  demand  for  per 
mitting  the  caravan  to  pafs  peaceably  through  the 
country.  Within  the  laft  feven  or  eight  years  this 
juflhge  is  become  more  dangerous  than  ever.  The 
M  baaclhci 


242  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

banditti  now  affemble  in  very  conflderable  bodies 
in  thefe  deferts,  and  at  certain  paiTes  the  travel 
lers  may  be  a  flailed  with  great  advantage.  In 
paffing  the  iflhmus  of  Suez,  for  in  fiance,  above 
Alexandia,  the  caravan  may  be  defeated  by  an 
hundred  men.  Tlveie  robbers,  therefore,  generally 
endeavour  to  port  themfelves  in  fuch  a  manner  as 
to  attack  it  in  this  place. 

Thofe  people  who  carry  on  a  petty  trade  en 
deavour  to  convert  their  little  flock  into  ready 
money  upon  their  arrival  at  Mecca ;  where,  with 
the  remainder  of  the  caravan,  and  other  Maho 
metan  pilgrims,  they  commemorate  by  a  feafl  the 
nativity  of  the  great  prophet  Mahomet,  when 
every  perfbn  is  obliged  to  facrifice  at  leaft  one 
ilieep.  It  is  computed  that  on  this  day,  which  is 
the  tenth  of  the  moon  Dalai  a,  above  two  millions 
of  ftieep  are  ilaughtered  at  Mecca. 

After  the  performance  of  this  folemn  rite  the 
•majority  of  the  travellers  employ  theiafelves  in 
laying  out  their  money  to  the  befl  advantage. 
Some  pur-chafe  muflins  Levant  fiiks,  &c. ;  others 
efTence  of  rofes,  amber,  muO-c,  Peril  an  filks,  &c. 
while  another  -part  of  them  iave  their  money  to 
lay  it  out  at  Grand  Cairo,  where  they  purchafe  a 
good  flock  of  raw  filk,  cottons,  and  manufactured 
filks  of  different  kinds.  In  this  city,  indeed,  every 
article  may  be  had  at  nearly  the.iame  price  as  at 
Mecca.  On  the  whole,  we  may  aflert,  at  a  mo 
derate  computation,  that  the  value  of  the  articles 
contained  in  one  of  thefe  caravans,  joined  with 
the  ready  money,  amounts  to  two  millions  of 
hard  dollars. 

Thoie 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. ,-  243 

Thofe  perfons  who  proceed  by  fla  join  the  cara 
van  after  difetnbarking  at  Alexandria,  and  paying 
the  freight  of  the  veffel  in  which  they  fet  fail.  On 
their  return  alfo,  confidcrable  numbers  embark  at 
Alexandria,  and  land  at  Tetuan  orTangier,  whence 
they  depart  for  their  refpective  homes,  and  fell  the 
commodities  they  bring  with  them  for  perhaps  a 
third  more  than  their  original  price.  Others  con 
tinue  their  journey  by  land,  and  add  to  the  riches 
brought  from  the  Levant,  the  merchandizes  of 
Tunis  and  Algiers,  which  are  held  in  great  efleem 
throughout  the  empire  of  Morocco.  By  thefe 
means  they  double  the  capital  they  provided 
themfelves  with  at  firfl  fetting  out. 

It  would  be  no  very  difficult  matter  for  a 
Chriftian  to  join  one  of  thefe  caravans,  provided 
he  obtained  the  recommendation  and  exprefs  per- 
miflion  of  his  Moorilh  majefty,  or  the  Shaik  of 
the  caravan,  who  would  take  him  under  his  pro- 
teftion.  This  obftacle  would  be  ftill  further  re- 
raoved,  if  the  Chriftian  would  confent  to  wear 
the  Turkifh  habit  or  drefs  himfelf  in  the  manner 
they  are  obliged  to  adopt  at  Grand  Cairo.  By 
thefe  means  he  would  obviate  every  inconvenience 
to  which  the  European  drefs  -fubjefts  a  traveller, 
both  with  refpeft  to  the  wild  Arabs,  and  to  the 
weak  and  illiberal  people  of  the  caravan.  As  the 
caravan,  however,  does  not  go  far  into  the  inte 
rior  parts  of  the  country,  the  obje6l  of  difcovery 
would  hardly  be  fufficient  to  counterbalance  the 
fatigues  and  dangers  of  the  expedition. 

There  are  no  caravans  which  go  directly  into 

the  interior  parts  of  the  country.     It  would,  in 

faft,  be  as  dangerous  for  a  Mahometan  as  for  a 

Chriflian  to  penetrate  an  hundred  leagues  beyond- 

M  2  the 


244  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  Sec. 

the  inhabitants  of  thcfe  parts  a  re  fa  vagc>  avaricious, 
and  capable  of  committing  any  crime  for  a  very 
trifling  emolument.  A  fatal  proof  the  cruelty  of 
thefe  Arabs  occurred  in  1786,  when  forty  pil 
grims  on  their  return  from  Mecca,  were  mafTacred. 
Theie  people  demanded  hofpitality  from  the  moun 
taineers  of  Zamor  near  Mequinez,  for  only  one 
night;  but  as  they  brought  ibme  valuable  goods 
with  them,  it  is  fuppofed  that  it  was  owing  to 
that  circumftance,  that  they  were  all  put  to  death. 

The  country  beyond  the  mountains  of  Atlas, 
about  fix  days  journey  to  the  Eaft  ot  Morocco,  is 
not  even  known  though  it  is  probable  it  might  be 
penetrated  with  iafety,  provided  the  fame  means 
were  ufed  as  are  employed  by  the  caravans  which 
go  to  the  South  ;  that  is,  a  fmali  proportion  of 
force,  and  a  fmail  proportion  of  generofity. 

There  is  no  particular  caravan  fo  considerable 
for  the  South  as  that  which  goes  to  Mecca.  As 
thefe  indeed  are  intended  merely  for  the  purpofes 
of  commerce,  they  feldom  conilil  of  more  than 
one  hundred  and  fifty,  or  perhaps  two,  or  at 
moit  three  hundred  perfons,  including  the  mule 
teers,  camel-drivers,  and  other  fervants.  Some 
of  thefe  caravans  fet  out  from  Morocco,  while 
others  go  from  Tarudant,  Fez,  and  Tetuan.  The 
fir  ft  'pals  by  way  of  Domnet,  while  the  others 
meet  at  Tafllet,  and  thence  puriue  their  journey 
towards  the  deiert.  Thefe  caravans  go  no  further 
than  Tombut,  where  there  are  fome  merchants  of 
Morocco,  eftabliilied  for  the  purpofe  of  carrying 
on  a  trade  with  the  inland  parts  of  Guinea,  where 
they  trafnck  for  Haves,  ivory,  gold  dufl,  &c. 
The  merchandizes  which  the  caravans  carry  from 

Morocco, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  245 

Morocco,  Taruclant,  &'c.  con  lift  of  Haicks  and 
blue  cloths  for  which  they  line!  a  good  fale 
throughout  the  country  of  the  Mohafres  and  at 
Thouat. 

The  city  of  Thonat  is  in  the  interior  parts  of 
the  country,  about  thirty  days  journey  from  Ta- 
filet.  From  Thouat  the  caravans  proceed  directly 
to  Tombut.  There  is  much  greater  danger  in 
paJilng  the  two  defer ts  between  Tafilet  and  Thouat, 
th-in  between  the  latter  place  and  Tombnt.  As 
the  Arabs  of  the  delerts  are  much  addicted  to 
rapine,  the  caravans  are  obliged  ,to  make  them 
trifling  prefents,  to  enable  them  to  travel  without 
being  molefted.  The  other  Arabs,  who  pnrchafe 
merchandize,  fuch  as  blue  cloths,  ihiall  daggers, 
looking- glafles,  £c.  pay  generally  in  return  oftrich- 
feathers  ;  and  this  traffick  is  attended  with  very 
tolerable  profits. 

The  articles  which  the  caravans  carry  immedi 
ately  to  Tombut  are  tobacco  and  fait.  It  is  ne- 
cellary  to  pay  attention  to  what  camels  may  be 
wanted  for  the  purpofes  of  carrying  water  through 
the  deferts,  as  in  ibme  parts  they  travel  four,  and 
in  others  nine  days,  without  meeting  with  a  drop 
of  water.  It  is  in  a  great  meafure  on  this  account 
that  the  camel  becomes  fo  ufefnl  an  animal  in  hot 
climates.  Their  ftomachs,  it  is  v/ell  known,  are 
fo  coniirucled  as  to  allow  them  to  pafs  many  days 
without  food  or  drink.  In  the  inner  coats  of  their 
ftomachs  there  are  a  number  of  little  cells,  in 
which  they  retain  a  large  proportion  of  water  for 
a  length  of  time,  nature  having  provided  them  • 
with  a  method  of  regurgitating  it  when  thirfty. 
From  the  fizc  of  the  ftomach  it  alfo  admits  of  a 
M  3  large 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

large  portion  of  food  to  be  taken  in  at  a  time,  to 
•which  they  have  recourfe  by  rumination  when 
their  appetite  calls  for  a  fupply  of  nourishment. 
Their  owners.,  therefore,  have  only  to  give  them 
plenty  cf  barley  and  water  at  the  entrance  of  the 
<^eferts,  and  that  proves  fufncient  to  la  ft  them  till 
a'frefh  fupply  can  be  conveniently  procured. 

Thele  extraordinary  animals  are  able  to  carry  a 
very  great  weight  in  proportion  to  their  fize,  and 
to  perform  very  long  journeys  without  much  ap- 
u  txnt  fatigue.  They  are  ufed  both  for  the  pur- 
pofes  of  riding  and  carrying  burdens.  Their 
i'leps  are  very  long  and  (low,  and  they  are  tracl- 
•ind  eafily  managed.  They  are  taught  to 
kneel  down  when  they  are  loaded  ;  and  when 
ufed  for  the  fad  ale  are  entirely  managed  by  a  rtiort 
.'u:-l  thick  flick,  which  both  ferves  tlie  purpo&s  of 
bridle  and  whip.  It  is  not  uncommon  in  Barbary 
to  fee  three  perfons,  with  furniture  in  proportion, 
mounted  upon  one  camel. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  the  caravans  at  Tombut, 
they  exchange  their  tobacco  and  fait  for  (laves, 
gold  dud,  and  ivory,  which  are  brought  thither 
from  Guinea.    Four  thoufand  (laves  are  fuppofed 
to  be  annually  carried  from  Tombut,  great  part 
of  whom  are  fent  to  Mafcar,  Algiers,  and  Tunis, 
but   feldom  happens  that  any  eunuchs  are 
»fat  away,  uruefs  by  a  particular  commiflion 
the  emperor  or  feme  of  the  princes,  no  other 
pen'jn  in   the  country  being  permitted   to   keep 
It  is  indeed  extremely  difficult  to  procure 
them  at  all.     The  place  whence  they  are  ufually 
brought  is  the  kingdom  of  Bambara.     In  Muley 
I/hmael's  relgii  the  number  of  eunuch's  in  the  em 
pire 


A  TOUR  TO  MGPwOCCO,  CCC.  247 

pire  of  Morocco  was  fuppofed  to  amount  to  feven 
hundred,  but  they  are  now  ib  reduced,  that  one 
hundred  is  the  utmofi  that  could  be  mattered  in 
the  whole  empire. 

Thole  pcrfbns  who  have  been  concerned  in  the 
trade  to  Tombut  for.  the  laft  twenty  years,  com- 
pute  the  value  of  the  merchandizes  tranfported 
annually  thither  from  the  empire  of  Morocco  to 
amount  to  at  leaft  a  million  of  hard  dollars ;  and 
the  commodities  received  in  return,  fach  as  oftrich- 
feathers,  ivory,  gold  daft,  amber,  and  Guinea 
Haves,  to  ten  millions  5  two  thirds  of  which  are 
carried  to  Algiers,  Tunis,  &c.  The  (laves  are 
purchafed  near  Tombut,  at  a  very  cheap  rate, 
there  having  been  inirances  of  a  iiac  Negro  boy 
being  bought  for  fix  pounds  of  fait. 

As  a  proof  that  Chriftians  may  proceed  along 
the  (hore  by  land  from  Guinea  to  Morocco,  two 
French  men,  in  the  year  1781,  came  from  Senegal 
to  Morocco,  and  brought  intelligence  of  fome 
forts  having  been  taken  from  the  Englifli  on  that 
river.  It  is,  however,  proper  to  remark,  that 
they  were  provided  with  eicorts  from  one  place  to 
another. 


M  4  CHAP., 


24B  A  TOUR  TO  MOROC 


C  H  A  P.     XII. 

SumtlU 

r.  E  M  .    Atttnda  r.ce  0:1  I.-  A  L  L  A  Z  A  R  A  .  — 
to  LALLA  BATOOM,  Ik e&cf  $uka*d.~ 

Jxtrod-uftiw  to  LALUA  DO^YAW,  tbs  favourite  wife 

.^•/ />.';•;«    r>/'  /A?f 

— Ad"Bt^iurt  .  •  *fc  Ladies. 

— />/v/j-  t//"  /  ,.j  HAREM. — Opinion  cf 

aleSex*—I£njperQr*s  Lbil- 
..'  Situation  cf  the  Female 


TTROM  the  nnfocc  'rorts  which  I  had 

•*    ra.ide  for  tlvj  pur  -procuring  my  dif- 

patches,  I  Lad  bcg:in  t:o  reconcile  mylcif  to  the 
idea  of  remaining  a  prifoncr  at  Morocco/ v/hen, 
to  my  great  iurpr:/:c?  at  the  expiration  of  a  month 
from  the  time  of  the  princes  departure,  his  Moorifh 
n;ajcfty  fent  to  me  in  particular  hafte  to  repair  to 
the  palace. 

Upon  receiving  this  meffoge  my  befl  hopes  v;ere 
c:;cited.    I  naturally  expefled  an  immediate  eman 
cipation,    as   it  is  neceflhry   that   every   ftn; 
•lei  ice  the  emperor  previous  to  his  clcpa: : 
I  (ie\v  to  the  palace  with  all  the  alacrity  v 
inch  an  expectation  was  certain  to  infpire.    Whar 
then  \v;is  my  ailoniiliment-,  when,  upon  my  arrival 
,  a  meffenger  brought  orders  from 
•.  rnpcror,  the  purport  of  which  was,  that  I 
-fhould  inimediately  exninine  one  of  liiii  fultanas 
\vho  \7.\z  iucl  .1  k:  the  aitcninooii  return 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  249 

with  proper  medicines,  and  at  the  fame  time  report 
my  opinion  of  her  cafe  to  his  rnajefty. 

It  is  difficult  to  fay  whether  difappointment  or 
furprize  were  the  predominant  emotion  in  my 
mind  on  receiving  this  order.  After  the  prejudices 
which  from  his  diflike  to  the  Englifh,  and  his 
ignorance  of  the  effects  of  internal  medicines,  the 
emperor  was  known  to  have  entertained  againft 
me,  and  after  having  detained  me  at  Morocco  for 
fuch  a  length  of  time,  with  no  apparent  view  but 
that  of  manifefting  his  contempt  of  me  as  an  En- 
gliihman,  it  appeared  unaccountable  that  he  fhouid 
give  orders  for  my  adrniflion  into  the  Harem  3 
where  in  addition  to  the  former  objections,  there 
were  alfo  fome  Hill  ftronger  in  the  eyes  of  the 
Moors  ;  as  the  admiflion  of  one  of  our  fex  into 
that  facred  depofitory  of  female  charms,  was  alrooft 
unprecedented,  and  I  be! eve  totally  fo  with  refpect 
to  the  Harem  of  the  emperor, 

Whatever  might  be  the  motives  with  his  impe 
rial  majefty  for  the  violation  of  Moorifh  decorum 
In  this  inftance,  I  did  not  conceive  I  had  much 
reafon  to  rejoice  at  the  event.  I  had  already  expe 
rienced  too  much  ingratitude  from  the  prince,  as 
well  as  too  much  ungenerous  treatment  from  the 
emperor,  to  encourage  me  to  undertake  any  future 
ecr;iigement  of  the  kind  in  this  country;  and  the 
aides  and  prejudices  which  from  experience 
1  knew  I  had  to  encounter,  when  employed  in  my 
profeffional  line  by  the  Moors,  united  to  the  uncer 
tainty  of  removing  the  lady's  complaint,  rendered 
it  altogether  not  very  fafe  to  adminifter  my  advice 
under  iuch  disadvantageous  circurnilances  ;  and 
ihat  cunoilty  which  would  naturally  be  e» 
M  5  cited 


250  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

cited  in  mcli  perfons  on  fuch  an  occafion,  was  not 
fufficient  to  reconcile  me  to  this  new  employment. 
.  Unfortunately  in  this  dilemma  I  had  very  little 
time  allowed  me  to  determine,  fmce  the  mefTengtr 
was  waiting  to  conduct  me  to  the  gate  of  the 
Harem.  My  embarrailment,  however,  continued 
only  for  a  flier t  period;  for  I  foon  recollected  that 
it  was  in  vain  to  oppofe  the  emperor's  order.  I 
therefore  deferred  giving  a  decifive  anfwer  till  I 
had  iecn  my  pr.tient,  and  made  myfelf  fully  ac 
quainted  with  the  nature  of  her  complaint. 

The  public  and  ufual  entrance  to  the  Harern  is 
through  a  very  large  arched  door-way,  guarded 
on  the  outfide  by  ten  body  guards,  which  leads 
to  a  lofty  hall,  where  the  captain  or  Alcaide,  with 
a  guard  of  fcventeen  eunuchs, -are  polled.  No 
perfon  is  admitted  into  this  hall,  but  thofe  who 
are  known  to  have  bufinefs  in  the  Harem. 

The  emperor's  order  being  delivered  on  the 
outfide  of  the  door  to  the  Alcaide,  I  was  imme 
diately,  with  my  interpreter,  conducted  into  the 
Harem  by  one  of  the  Negro  eunuchs.  Upon  en 
tering  the  court  into  which  the  women's  apart 
ments  open>  I  difcovered  a  motley  group  of  con 
cubines,  domeftics,  and  negro  (laves,  who  were 
variously  employed.  Thofe  of  the  flrft  defcription 
had  formed  thernfelves  into  circles,  feated  on  the 
ground  in  the  open  court,  and  were  apparently 
engaged  in  congelation. — The  domeftics  and  ilaves 
were  partly  employed  in  needle-work,  and  partly 
in  preparing  their  cufcofoo.  My  appearance  in 
the  court,  however,  foon  attracted  their  attention, 
and  a  considerable  number  of  them  upoaobferving 
r,ie.  i  '.  with  the  means  by  which  I  had 

bcea 


A  TOUR  TO   1MOKCCC3,    &C.  25! 

been  admitted  into  the  Harem,  retreated  with 
the  utmoft  precipitancy  into  their  apartments  -, 
while  others  more  courageous  approach ed,  and 
enquired  of  my  black  attendant  who  I  was,  and 
by  whofe  orders  he  had  brought  me  thither. 

The  moment  it  was  known  that  I  was  of  the 
medical  profedlon,  parties  of  them  were  detached 
to  inform  tiiofe  who  had  fled,  that  I  was  fent  in 
by  order  of  the  emperor  to  attend  Lalla  Zara,  my 
intended  patient's  name,  and  requeuing  of  them 
to  come  back  and  look  at  the  Chriftian.  Seranio 
Tibib  !  Chriftian  Doclor !  refounded  from  one 
end  of  the  Harem  to  the  other;  and  in  the  courfe 
ot  a  few  minutes  I  was  fo  completely  furrounded 
by  women  and  children,  that  I  was  unable  to  move 
a  fmgle  ftep. 

Every  one  of  them  appeared  felicitous  to  find 
out  fome  complaint  on  which  fhe  might  confult 
me,  and  thofe  who  had  not  ingenuity  enough  to 
invent  one,  obliged  me  to  feel  their  pulfe ;  and 
were  highly  difpleafed  if  I  did  not  evince  my  ex 
cellence  in  my  profefHon  by  the  difcovery  of  ibme 
ailment  or  other.  All  of  them  fcemed  fo  "urgent 
to  be  attended  to  at  the  fame  time,  that  while- 1  was 
feeling  the  pulfe  of  one,  others  were  behind, 
pulling  my  coat  and  entreating  me  to  examine 
their  complaints,  while  a  third  party  were  upbraid-, 
ing  me  for  not  paying  them  the  fame  attention. 
Their  ideas  of  delicacy  did  not  at  all  correipond 
with  thofe  of  our  European  ladies,  for  they  exhi 
bited  the  beauties  of  their  limbs  and  form  with  a 
degree  of  freedom  that  in  any  other  country 
would  have  been  thought  indecent  5  and  then* 
GQHTverfaiTiOQ  '.van  coually  unrelt  rained. 

This 


A- TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &c. 

This  apparent  laxity  of  conducl  in  the  Moonlit 
ladies  does  not  proceed  from  a  depravity  in  prin 
ciple.  As  the  female  iex  in  this  country  are  not 
entrufted  with  the  guardianfliip  of  their  own 
honour,  there  is  no  virtue  in  referve.  A  depraved 
education  even  ferves  to  corrupt  inftead  of  to 
reftrain  them.  They  are  not  regarded  as  rational 
or  moral  agents;  they  are  only  confidered  as  be 
ings  created  entirely  to  befubfervient  to  the  pleafure 
of  man.  To  excite  the  paffions,  and  to  do  and 
lay  every  thing  which  may  inflame  a  licentious  ima 
gination,  become  therefore  rieceffary  accomplifh- 
Hients  in  the  female  fex,  and  their  manners  and 
condudt  naturally  aiTume  a  call  totally  different 
from  thole  women  in  a  more  refined  and  more 
liberal  ftate  of  ibciety.  In  thofe  inftances  to  which 
I  refer,  they  were  net  confcious  of  trefpaffing  the 
limits  of  decency;  and  in  others  they  manifefted 
a  iingular  attention  to  what  they  conceived  to  be 
decorum.  When  I  requefted  to  fee  the  tongues 
of  fjme  patients  who  complained  of  feverifti  fymp- 
torns,  they  refufed  to  comply,  confidering  it  as 
inconfiftent  with  their  modefty  and  virtue;  fome 
of  them  indeed  laughed  at  the  fingularity  of  the 
rc'qnefl,  and  attributed  it  either  to  an  impertinent 
curiofity,  or  an  inclination  to  impofe  on  their  un- 
clerflandings. 

As  the  number  of  my  patients  continued  to  in 
n-tale  rather  than  to  dirninlfn,  there  appeared  but 
;  oi  an  ii)trodi;Ciion  to  the  fbltana 
Zara,  whcm  I  was  £rfi  diredted  to  attend, 
in  any  r  ti.ne.  The  eunuch,  however, 

v-t:ariccl  01. t  Vvri-h  v/alfm^,  exerted  ail  the  vigour 
of  aiu!.;C:  .  ural  effeminacy  would 

admit 


A  TOUR  TO  MOB.OCCOj-&C.  253 

admit  of  in  obliging  them  to  difperfe,  and  which 
was  fo  far  effectual  at  lead:  as  to  allow  me  room 
to  pafs,  though  this  female  croud  flill  followed 
me  till  I  had  nearly  reached  the  lady's  apart 
ment.  ' 

From  the  firil  court  into  which  I  had  been  in 
troduced,  I  paflecl  through  two  or  three  limilar,  till 
I  at  length  arrived  at  the  chamber  of  my  intended 
patient.  I  was  here  detained  a  little  time  in  the 
court,  till  my  patient  and  her  apartment  were 
ready  to  receive  me. — Upon  my  entrance  I'found 
the  lady  fitting  crofs-legged  on  a  mattrefs  placed 
upon  the  floor,  and  covered  with  fine  linen,  with 
twelve  white  and  negro  attendants,  feated  on  the 
floor  alfo,  in  different  parts  of  the  chamber.  A 
round  cufhlon  was  placed  for  me  next  to  the  lady, 
on  which  1  was  defired  to  be  feated.  I  fhould 
have  remarked",  that,  contrary  to  my  expectations, 
I  found  that  none  of  the  emperor's  women  dif- 
guifed  their  faces  in  the  manner  which  I  had  ex 
perienced  in  the  prince's  Harem,  but  I  faw  them  all 
with  the  fame  familiarity  as  if  I  had  been  intro 
duced  into  the  hotife  of  an  European. 

Lalia  Zara*,  who  was  of  Moorifh  parents,  was 
about  eight  years  ago  remarkable  for  her  beauty 
and  accomplifnments ;  on  which  account  fhe  was 
then  in  every  refpeci  the  favourite  wife  of  the 
emperor.  So  dangerous  a  pre-eminence  could  not 
he  enjoyed,  without  exciting  the  jealoufy  of  thoie 
females  whofe  charms  were  Ids  confpicuous;  and 
who,  befides  the  mortification  of  having  a  lefs 

^  Lallci,  fignifies  lady  or  miftrefs,  but  is  only   applied  in 
tLivS  couniry  o  the  iuhuwas, 

fli  are 


254  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

{hare  of  beauty,  experienced  alfo  the  dlfgra. 
being  defer  ted  by  their  lord. 

Determined  to  effect  her  ruin,  they  contrived 
to  mix  fome  poifbn  (mod  probably  arfenic)  in  her 
food,  and  conducted  the  deteftable  plot  <Kth-fuch 
art  and  addrefs,  that  it  was  not  perceived  until  the 
deleterious  drug  had  began  its  baneful  operations. 
She  was  feized  with  moil  violent  fpz.fm.s,  and  a 
continual  vomiting ,  and  had  fhe  not  been  pofTeiTed 
of  an  uncommonly  ftrong  confutation,  fhe  mult 
immediately  have  fallen  a  viclim'to  the  ma^hina- 
tions  of  her  rivals.  After  a  ievere  ftruggle,  how 
ever,  between  life  and  death,  the  effects  of  the 
poiibn  in  fome  degree  abated  j  but  it  left  the  un 
happy  lady  in  a  ftate  of  dreadful  debility  and  ir 
ritation,  and  particularly  in  the  ftomach,  from 
which  it  was  not  perhaps  in  the  power  of  medi 
cine  to  extricate  her.  Her  beauty  too,  the  fatal 
caufe  of  her  misfortune,  was  completely  destroyed, 
and  her  enemies,  though  difappointed  in  their  aim 
of  deftroying  her  life,  yet  enjoyed  the  malignant 
triumph  of  feeing  thofe  charms  which  had  excited 
their  uneafmefs,  reduced  below  the  ftandard  of 
ordinary  women. 

When  I  faw  her,  fhe  had  fnch  a  weaknefs  of 
digefiion,  that  every  fpecies  of  food  which  me 
took,  after  remaining  a  few  hours  on  her  ftomach, 
\vas  returned  perfectly  crude  and  undigested.  As 
(lie  did  not  receive  proper  nourishment,  her  body 
had  wafted  away  to  a  ihadow,  and  her  fr«ime  was 
in  ib  a  weak  a  ftate,  as  not  to  allow  her  to  walk 
without  afiiftance.  Her  complexion  was  entirely 
altered.  Her  fkin,  from  being  naturally  clear 
as  I  was  informed,  was  changed  to  a 

fickly 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  25^ 

fickly  brown,  \vm^fr Joined  to  a  ruined  fet  pf 
teeth,  and  a  gfclrny  countenance,  had  effaced 
every  trace  of  that  beauty,  which  (he  before 
might  have  po  fie  lied.  Upon  my  firil  enter 
ing  heflMapartment,'  though  from  iny  profeffion 
accuftomed  to  behol&objecls  of  diftrefs  and  mifery 
yet  I  was  fo  forcibly  firuck  with  her  unhappy  fitu- 
ation  and  wretched  appearance,  that  I  was  obliged 
to  exert  all  the  fortitude  of  which  I  was  mailer,  to 
avoid  the  difcovery  of  my  feelings. 

Lalla  Zara  \vtts  at  this  time  about  fix-and-thirty 
years  of  age,  and  though  in  fo  weak  a  flate,  had 
two  beautiful  young  children;  the  firft  was  in  its 
fixth  year,  and  the  youngeft,  which  was  then 
under  the  care  of  a  wet-nurfe,  was  very  little 
more  than  a  twelve-month  old.  I  was  quite  afto- 
niihed  to  obferve  luch  ftrong  and  apparently  heal 
thy  children,  the  offspring  of  a  mother  whofe  con- 
ffitution  was  fo  dreadfully  impaired.  It  was  cer 
tainly,  however,  a  very  fortunate  circumflance 
for  Lalla  Zara  that  (he  had  thefe  children;  fince 
by  the  Mahometan  law  a  man  cannot  divorce  his 
wife  provided  (he  bear  him  children ;  fo  that  though 
the  emperor  took  very  little  notice  of  this  poor 
lady,  yet  he  was,  for  the  above  reafon,  obliged  to 
maintain  both  herfelf  and  her  offspring. 

From  the  wretched  fituation  in  which  I  have 
defcri bed  this  unfortunate  female,  it  is-eafy  to  con 
ceive  that  her  ipirits  mufr,  revive  at  the  moft  diftant 
profpedVof  procuring  relief  in  her  dilagreeable 
complaint.  Such,  indeed  was  the  the  cafe.  She 
received  me  with  all -that  fatisfaction  which  hope, 
united  with  fome  degree  of  confidence.,  moft  natu 
rally  infpires. 

Under 


2^6  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Under  tliefe  eircumftances  the  predicament  In 
which  I  felt  myielf  was,  I  muft  confeis,  molt 
truly  embar raffing.  It  was  one  of  thole  unpleafant 
filiations,  in  which  duty  and  intertill  are  com 
pletely  in  opposition  to  each  other,  or^rather 
when  the  fynipathetic  feelings  (land  oppofed  to 
perfonal  fafety.  Humanity  pointed  out  to  me  that 
it  was  my  duty  to  relieve  her  if  poflible;  on  the 
other  hand,  felf-prefervation  no  lefs  ftrongly  dic 
tated,  that  it  was  abibiutely  neceflary  to  my  fafety 
and  happinefs  to  embrace  the  firft  opportunity  of 
leaving  a  country  where  I  exifted  in  the  moft  cri 
tical  and  moft  difagreeable  fituation.  Both  thcfe 
fentirnents  for  iome  time  preiFed  equally  on  my 
mind,  and  left  me  at  a  lofs  how  to  determine. 
I  at  length,  however,  fixed  on  a  middle  plan  of 
conduct,  which  appeared  likely  to  arFecl  the  fafety 
jf  the  lacly,  without  endangering  my  own.  This 
was,  to  give  a  proper  courfe  of  medicines  a  fair 
trial  for  a  fortnight;  and  then,  if  the  leaft  profpecl: 
of  amendment  fhould  appear  in  coniequence  of 
them,  I  could  leave  her  more,  with  fuch  directions 
as  might  enable  her  to  ufe  them  without  medical 
attendance. 

This  plan  I  conceived  it  moft  prudent  not  to 
communicate  immediately  to  my  patient:  I  there 
fore,  without  affording  her  any  very  flattering  hopes 
of  a  ciire,  allured  her,  that  I  would  life  every 
means  with  which  I  was  acquainted  for  the  refto- 
ration  of  her  conftitr  ion.  Contrary  to  moft  other 
Mooridi  females,  I  found  Lai  la  Zara  in  every 
refpecl:  arTlible  and  polite*,  though  deprived  of  her 
health,  me  retained  her  natural  vivacity,  and  with 
the  ravages  of  her  inveterate  malady,  fhe  ftill  re 
mained  a  pkafmg  and  an  intcrefting  character. 

I  was 


A  TCUR  TO   MOROCCO,  &C.  257 

I  was  upon  the  point  of  taking  my  leave  of  Lalla 
Zara,  when  a  female  meflenger  appeared  to  re- 
queft  my  attendance  upon  Lalla  Batoom,  who, 
from  the  priority  of  her  marriage,  is  called  the  firft 
wife  of  the  emperor,  and  is  more  properly  en 
titled  to  the  denomination  of  fultana  than  any  of 
the  others. 

As  the  ernpcrcr  had  given  directions  for  my  ad- 
million  to  Lalla  Zara  only,  and  as  I  foon  perceived 
that  the  eunuch  regarded  me  with  the  moil  jealous 
eye,  I  muil  confefs  that,  however  my  curiofity 
might  be  excited,  yet  when  foliated  to  viiit  the 
other  ladies,  I  could  not  help  feeling  fome  ap- 
prehenficns  of  the  danger  which  I  incurred  by 
tranfgreffing  the  emperor's  order.  On  the  other 
hand,  I  reflected,  that  both  the  eunuch  and  the 
-women  would  be  equally  involved  in  the  corife- 
quences  of  a  difcoveryj  the  firft  for  conducing 
me,  and  the  others  for  admitting  me  into  'their 
apartments;  and  therefore  that  it  was  as  much 
their  inrereft  as  mine  to  be  cautious,  as  well  in  pre 
venting  the  circumilance  from  reaching  the  empe 
ror's  ears,  as  in  not  receiving  me  in  their  apart 
ments  at  a  time  when  he  was  likely  to  enter  the 
Ikrem.  All  thefe  arguments,  united  to  the  defire 
which  I  felt  to  avail  myfelf  of  ib  favourable  an 
opportunity  of  feeing  a  place  where  no  European 
had  ever  before  been  admitted,  had  fo  much 
wight,  that  my  objections  were  fpeedily  retrieved. 

I  found  Lalla  Batoom  to  be  a  perfect  Moorifh 
beauty,  (he  was  mo  ft  immoderately  fat,  about  forty 
years  "of  age,  with  round  and  prominent  cheeks, 
which  were  painted  a  deep  red,  fmall  black  eyes, 
and  a  vifago  completely  guihlcfs  of  expreffion,  * 

She 


258  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

She  -was  fitting  upon  a  mattrafs  on  the  floor, 
which,  as  uiual,  was  covered  with  fine  white 
linen,  and  /he  was  lurrounded  with  a  large  pany 
of  concubines,  whom  I  was  informed  (he  had  in 
vited  to  he  her  vifitors  on  the  occafion.  Her  r 
bore  a  much  greater  appearance  of  grandeur  than 
that  of  Lalla  Zara,  and  /he  was  indulged  with  a 
whole  fquare  to  htrfelf. 

As  foon  as  I  entered  her  apartment,  Lalia 
Eatoom  requeired  of  me  to  be  feated  ciofe  by  her 
ilde,  and  to  feel  her  pulie.  Her  complaint  was  a 
flight  cold,  of  which  an  unconquerable  dcfire  of 
feeing  me  had  moil  probably  been  the  occafion. 
As  foon  as  I  had  felt  her  pulie,  and  pronounced 
my  opinion,  I  was  employed  in  going  through  the 
fame  ceremony  with  ail  the  other  ladies  in  the 
room,  who  defired  I  would  acquaint  them  with 
dl  their  complaints  without  any  farther  enquiries. 
From  the  great  experience  which  I  had  acquired 
in  this  kind  of  practice  while  at  Tarudant,  and 
from  the  knowledge  which  I  had  attained  of  their 
complaints,  which  in  general  proceeded  from  too 
violent  an  attack  upon  the  cufcofoo,  I  was  enabled 
to  make  no  defpicable  figure  in  this  tnyfterious  art, 
and  was  very  fuccefsful  in  my  opinions. 

From  the  fubject  of  their  own  health,  the  con- 
verfation  prefentiy  changed  to  criticifms  upon  my 
drefs.  There  was  not  a  /ingle  part  of  it  which 
was  not  examined,  and  commented  on  with  their 
ufual  loquacity.  My  interpreter  was  then  a/ked  if 
I  was  a  married  man,  and  if  fo,  whether  I  had 
brought  my  wife  with  me,  with  a  variety  of 
equally  important  que/lions.  In-  the  mid  ft  of  this 
conversation;  tea  was  introduced,  though  at  d 

oV. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

o'clock  in  the  morning.  A  fmall  tea-board  with 
four  very  fhort  feet,  fupplied  the  place  of  a  table, 
and  held  the  tea  equipage.  The  cups  were  about 
the  fize  of  large  walnut-fhells,  of  the  very  belt 
Indian  china,  and  of  which  a  very  conficlerable 
number  was  drank. 

After  I  had  concluded  my  vifit  to  the  queen  of 
the  Harem,  I  was  next  conducted  to  Lalla  Douyaw, 
the  favourite  wife  of  the  emperor,  whom  I  found 
to  be  what  would  be  termed  in  Europe  a  very  fme4 
and  beautiful  woman.  She  is  a  native  of  Genoa, 
and  was,  with  her  mother  ihipwrecked  on  the 
coaft  of  Barba ry,  whence  they  became  the  em 
peror's  captives.  At  that  period,  though  but 
eight  years-  of  age,  her  perlbnal  charms  were 
fo  very  promifmg  and  attractive,  that  they  induced 
the  emperor  to  order  her  to  be  taken  forcibly  from 
her  mother,  and  placed  in  his  Harem,  where, 
though  at  fo  early  a  period  of  life  every  means 
were  in  vain  employed  to  entice  her  to  change  her 
religion,  till  at  length  the  emperor  threatened  to 
pull  up  every  hair  of  her  head  by  the  roots,  if  (he 
defifted  any  longer  5  and  fhe  then  found  herfelf 
obliged  to  fubmit  to  his  inclinations. 

After  remaining  fome  time  in  the  character  of 
a  concubine,  the  emperor  married  her ;  and  from 
her  great'great  beauty,  addrefs,  and  fuperior  men 
tal  accompli (hments,  (he  foon  gained  his  beft  affec 
tions,  which  fhe  ever  after  pofleffed.  She  had, 
indeed,  fo  much  influence  over  him,  that  though 
he  was  naturally  of  a  very  ftubborn  difpofition, 
fhe  was  never  known  to  fail  in  any  favour  fhe 
foliated,  provided  (lie  perfevered  in  her  requefl. 

When 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

"When  I  faw  her  fhe  was  about  thirty  years  of 
age;  in  her  perfon  rather  corpulent,  and  her  face 
was  diilinguiflied  by  that  exprefTive  beauty  which 
is  alrncii  peculiar  to  the  Italian  women.  Her  ad- 
dreis  was  pleafing,  and  her  behaviour  polite  and 
attentive.  In  the  Harem,  from  her  accompiifh- 
ments  in  reading  and  writing  well  the  Arabic  lan 
guage,  fhe  was  considered  by  the  other  females  as 
£  in  pen  or  being. 

From  the  circumftan.ee  of  being  taken  fo  young 
the  Harem,  fhe  had  nearly  forgotten  her  na 
tive  language,  and  could  only  converfe  fluently  in 
Arabic,  having  but  a  diftant  recollection  of  the 
events  which  nrft  brought  her  into  lier  prefent 
fituation.  She,  however,  informed  $e  that  we 
were,  brother  and  fiftcr  (a  common  phrafe  ufed  by 
the  Moors  to  exprefs  the  affinity  which  ChrifUans 
bear  to  each  other  in  a  religious  fenfe)  and  had  dit 
cernment  enough  to  obfcrve  that  fhe  was  among 
c.  very  uncouth  and  ignorant  people.  She  added, 
that  her  mother,  whom  I  had  afterwards  an  op 
portunity  of  feeing  at  a  Venetian  merchant's  houie 
at  Mamora,  was  {till  a  Chriflian,  though  (he  her- 
felf  was  no  longer  fuch,  and  that  flic  hoped  I 
would  vlfit  her  every  time  I  came  to  the  Harem. 

Her  complaint  was  a  fcorbutlc  afFecYion  of  the 
gums,  which  threatened  the  lofs  of  fome  of  her 
front  teeth.  This  circumflance  gave  her  the  grcat- 
tir.  uneafmefs,  as  (lie  was  fearful  it  might  disfigure 
her  other  features,  and  by  that  means  caufe  an 
abatement  in  the  aiTe<5ticn  of  the  emperor.  On 
this  ;u:count  fhe  v/as  extremely  anxious  to  have 
my  advice,  though  when  I  \vas  in  her  apartment: 
fhe  ahvnys  experienced  theftrongeft  apprehenfions 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  2vl 

!</i  my  attendance  on  her  fnould  come  to  the  em 
peror's  knowledge,  which  might  be  attended  with 
the  mod:  ferions  coniequences  to  us  both. 

Lalla  Zara,  owing  to  her  bad  ft  ate  of  health, 
rnd  the  confeqnent  ruin  of  her  perfonai  charms, 
had  long  been  neglected  by  the  emperor,  who, 
mo  ft  probably,  admitted  of  my  attendance  on  her 
more  for  the  lake  of  exonerating  himfeif  from  her 
ccnft?,nt  importunities  to  fee  me  (for  it  was  a  con- 
ficltrabie  time  before  (he  could  gain  his  confent) 
than  from  any  great  anxiety  on  his  part  for  her* 
recovery.  With  refpecl  to  a  perfon  of  fuch  a 
defcription,  it  was  perhaps  a  matter  of  indi {Terence 
to  the  emperor  by  whom  {he  was  feen  or  known, 
and  therefore  there  was  no  ground  for  that  jea- 
.loufy  to  which  the  Moors  in  general  are  fo  noto- 
rioufly  acWfered. 

Lalla  Douyaw  was  very  differently  Ctuated.  She 
was  in  the  bloom  of  health  and  beauty,  with  all 
thofe  exterior  accomplishments  which  were  likely 
to  excite  the  mo'ft  ardent  paffion  ;  and  indeed  the 
emperor's  attachment  to  her  was  unexampled. — 
Under  thefe  circumftances,  when  we  confider 
with  what  caution  the  Moors  in  general  endeavour 
to  prevent  any  foreign  intercourse  with  their  wo 
men,  it  could  not  be  fuppofed  that  the  emperor 
would  relifli  the  idea  of  an  European  in  particular 
being  admitted  frequently,  and  almoft  alone,  to 
this  firft  object  of  his  deareft  afFecTions. 

Lalla  Douyaw,  however,  to  prevent  the  poffi- 
bility  of  deteclion,  enjoined  her  female  flaves  to 
be  particularly  afliduous  to  inform  her  when  there 
was  the  fmalleft  reafon  for  an  alarm ;  while,  on. 
the  other  hand  {he  was  continually  making  pre- 

(ents 


252  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

feats  to  the  eunuch  who  attended  me,  cautionlncr 
him  at  the  fame  time  not  to  intimate  to  any  peribn 
out  of  the  Harem  that  I  had  been  admitted  into  her 
apartment.  She  To  far  gained  an  aicendancy  over 
him,  that  I  frequently  remained  with  her  for  an 
hour  at  a  time,  converfmg  upon  European  cu Horns  ; 
and  though  fhe  knew  but  little  of  them,  yet  the 
fubjeft  always  feemed  to  afford  her  the  higheft 
pleafure.  As  foon  as  (he  thought  it  would  be 
imprudent  for  me  to  remain  any  longer,  fhe  rc- 
quefted  of  me  to  go,  but  with  a  promife  to  call 
upon  her  the  next  time  I  vifited  the  Harem.  Her 
spprehenfion  of  a  difcovery  was  not  confined  to 
the  chance  of  an  alarm  from  the  emperor,  or  from 
the  perfidy  of  the  eunuch;  it  was  likewife  extend 
ed  to  the  jealoufy  of  the  other  women  in  the  Ha 
rem,  who  might  probably  rejoice  in  an  opporta 
nity  of  effecting  her  ruin.  It  was,  however,  per 
haps  a  fortunate  circumftance  for  us  both,  that 
moft  of  them  admitting  me  into  their  apartments, 
it  was  equally  their  intereft  to  be  filent,  fince  a 
difcovery  of  the  one  would  inevitably  lead  to  the 
detection  of  the  others. 

The  fourth  wife,  who  is  daughter  to  an  Englifh 
renegado,  and  mother  to  the  reigning  emperor, 
being  at  Fez  at  the  time  when  I  vifited  the  Harem, 
I  had  not  an  opportunity  of  feeing. 

When  I  waited  on  the  emperor  in  confequence 
of  my  vifit  to  the  Harem,  I  was  honoured  with 
quite  a  private  audience;  for  he  received  me  in 
the  court  clofe  to  his  houie  where  no  perfoa  is 
permitted  to  be  preient  while  the  emperor  is  there, 
but  a  few  pages,  and  the  people  who  immediately 
belong  to  his  carriage. 

The 


Ia- 
tu- 

3 


,A  TOUR  TO  MOP.OCCO,  &C.  26'j 

The  fovereign  was  in  an  open  four-w  heeled 
carriage,  hung  very  low,  of  a  fize  juft  large  enough 
to  admit  one  perfon,  and  drawn  by  the  ions  of 
four  Spaniih  renegadoes.  As  ioon  as  I  was  ob- 
ferved  by  him,  his  majefty  ordered  me  with  my 
interpreter  to  approach,  and  carry  him  the  medi 
cines,  defiring  me  to  tafle  them  before  him,  to 
convince  him,  I  imagine,  that  there  was  nothing 
in  them  that  was  improper.  He  then  examined 
them  with  great  attention,  and  ordered  me  to 
explain  to  him  what  they  were,  and  in  what  man 
ner  they  were  expected  to  act.  When  required 
to  give  my  opinion  concerning  the  cafe  of  my 
patient,  I  informed  his  majeiry,  that  the  fultana's 
complaint  was  of  fuch  a  nature  as  to  require  a 
very  long  courfe  of  medicines,  but  which  I  appre 
hended  it  would  not  be  neceflary  to  change;  that 
therefore  I  propofed  to  attend  her  for  a  fortnight, 
and  then  leave  her  a  proper  fupply,  with  fuch 
directions  as  might  enable  her  to  take  them  almoft 
with  the  fame  advantage  as  if  I  was  prefent.  I 
added,  that  I  had  received  orders  from  the  go 
vernor  of  Gibraltar  to  return  to  the  garrifon  im 
mediately,  which  if  I  difobeyed  I  fhould  certainly 
ioie  a  very  good  employment;  and  that,  as  I  was 
convinced  of  the  emperor's  kind  intentions  to 
wards  me,  by  the  promifes  which  he  had  made  at 
my  firft  audience,  I  was  perfnaded  his  majeily 
would  not  detain  me  a  day  longer  than  the  period 
I  mentioned.  In  reply,  the  emperor  faid,  that 
he  only  wifhed  me  to  attend  the  fultana  for  about 
ten  days,  at  the  expiration  of  which,  if  the  me 
dicines  proved  likely  to  be  nfcful,  I  fhould  then 
kr,ve  her  a  proper  fupply,  and  he  would  fend  me 

home 


£&4  A  T3UR  TO  MOROCCO.,   &C. 

home  (to  ufe  his  expreiTion)  upon  a  fine  horfe.  He 
then  gave  orders  to  his  prime  miruder  to  pay  me 
ten  hard  dollars  as  a  prdent ;  and  commanded 
that  free  admittance  fliould  be  granted  me  into 
the  royal  Harem,  whenever  I  thought  it  neceflary. 

The  Harem,  as  I  before  obierved,  forms  a  part 
of  the  palace  or  feraglio,  without  any  other  imme 
diate  com m in ii cation  with  it  than  a  private  door, 
ufed  only  by  the  emperor  himfelf. 

The  apartments,  which  are  all  on  the  ground 
door,  are  fquare,  very  lofty,  and  four  of  tliem 
enclofe  a  fpacicus  fquare  court  into  which  they 
open  by  means  of  large  folding-doors.  Thefe,  as 
in  other  Moorifh  houfes,  which  in  general  have 
no  windows,  ierve  the  purpofe  of  admitting  light 
into  the  apartments.  In  the  centre  of  thefe  courts, 
which  are  floored  with  blue  and  white  checqnered 
tiling,  is  a  fountain,  fupplied  by  pipes  from  a  large 
refervoir  on  the  outflde  of  the  palace,  which 
ferves  for  the  frequent  ablutions  recommended  by 
the  Mahometan  religion,  as  well  as  for  other 
purpoies. 

The  whole  of  the  Harem  confifts  of  about 
twelve  of  thefe  fquare  courts  communicating  with 
each  other  by  narrow  paflages,  which  afford  a  free 
r.ccefs  from  one  part  of  it  to  another,  arid  of  which 
all  the  women  are  allowed  to  avail  themfelves. 

The  apartments  are  ornamented  externally  with 
beautiful  carved  wood,  much  fuperior  to  any  I 
have  ever  feen  in  Europe,  as  well  for  the  difficulty 
of  the  wovkmanfliip,  as  for  the  fa  Me  with  which 
it  is  finifhed.  In  the  infide  moil  of  the  rooms  are 
hung  with  rich  damafk  of  various  colours;  the 
floors  are  covered  v/ith  beautiful 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  265 

are  mattrefles  difpofed  at  different  diftances  for  the 
purpofes  of  fitting  and  fleeping. 

Befides  thefe,  the  apartments  are  furnifhed  at 
each  extremity  with  an  elegant  European  mahogany 
beadfted,  hung  with  damafk,  having  on  it  feveral 
mattreffes  placed  one  over  the  other,  which  are 
covered  with  various  coloured  filks  j  but  thefe  beds 
are  merely  placed  there  to  ornament  the  room. 
In  all  the  apartments  without  exception,  the  ceiling 
is  wood,  carved  and  painted.  The  principal  or 
naments  in  fome,  were  large  and  valuable  looking- 
glaffes,  hung  on  different  parts  of  the  walls.  In 
others,  clocks  and  watches  of  different  fizes,  in 
glafs  cafes,  were  difpofed  in  the  fame  manner.  In 
fome  of  the  apartments  I  pbferved  a  projection 
from  the  wall,  which  reached  about  half  way 
to  the  ceiling,  o/i  which  were  placed  feveral  mat 
trefles  over  each  other,  and  each  covered  with 
iilks  of  different  colours.  Above  and  below  this 
projection  the  wall  was  hung  with  pieces  of  fattin, 
velvet,  and  daxnafk,  of  different  colours,  orna 
mented  on  each  edge  with  a  broad  ftripe  of  black 
velvet,  which  was  embroidered  in  its  centre  with 
gold. 

The  whole  Harem  was  under  the  management 
of  the  principal  fultana,  Lalla  Batoom:  that  is  in 
general,  (he  was  diftinguifhed  by  the  litle  of  miflrefs 
of  the  Harem,  without  having  any  particular  con- 
troul  over  the  women.  This  lady  and  Lalla 
Douyaw,  the  favourite,  wera*.  indulged  with  a 
whole  fquare  to  themfelves ;  but  Lalla  Zara,  and 
all  the  concubines,  were  only  allowed  each  a 
lingle  room. 

N  Each 


266  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Each  female  had  a  feparate  daily  allowance  frorh 
the  emperor,  proportioned  to  the  eflimation  in 
which  they  were  held  by  him.  Out  of  this  they 
were  expected  to  furnifh  themfelves  with  every 
article  of  which  they  might  be  in  want;  the  Harem 
is  therefore  to  be  confidered  as  a  place  where  fo 
many  diftincl:  lodgers  have  apartments  without 
paying  for  them,  and  the  principal  fultana  is  the 
miftrefs  of  the  whole. 

The  daily  allowance  which  each   woman  re 
ceived  from  the  emperor  for  her  fubfiftence  was 
very  trifling  indeed.     Lalla  Douyaw,  the  favourite 
jTultana,  had  very  little  more  than   haif-a-crown 
Knglifn  per  diem,  and  the  others  lefs  in  proportion. 
it  mnil  be  allowed,  that  the  emperor  made  them 
occafional  prefents  of  money,  drefs,  and  trinkets  j 
&ut  this  could  never  be  fnfficient  to  fupport  the 
!,cr  of  domeftics  and  other  expences  they  mull: 
.     Their  greateft  dependence,  therefore,  was 
on  the  prefents  they  received  from  thofe  Europeans 
and  Moors   who  vifited  the  court,  and  who  em- 
d  their  influence  in  obtaining  ibme  particular 
ravonf  from  the  empercr.     Nor  had  the  monarch 
lent  delicacy  to  d iicou rage  this  mode  of  nego- 
n.     He  well  knew  that  if  his  women  had  not 
obtained  fupplies  by  other  means,  they  muft  have 
had  recourie  to  his  purfe;  and  as  he  had  taken  too 
precautions  to  allow   any  milchief  to  arile 
this  cnftom,  he  was  always  well  pleafed  to 
bufmefs  tnnifncled   through    that    channel. 
Ambafilidors,  confuls,  and  merchants  indeed,  who 
•\rere  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  the  court,  per- 

TA  ay.s  the  moft  iucccls- 
••joulcJ  be  i  As  an  ill  nil  rat  ion 

of 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

of  this  affertion,  when  I  was  at  Morocco,  a  Jew, 
defirous  of  obtaining  a  very  advantageous  favour 
from  the  emperor,  for  which  he  had  been  a  long 
time  unfuccefsfully  foliating,  fent  to  all  the  prin 
cipal  ladies  of  the  Harem  prefents  of  pearls  to  a 
very  confiderable  amount;  the  confequence  was, 
that  they  all  went  in  a  body  to  the  emperor,  and 
immediately  obtained  the  wifhed-for  conceffion. 

The  ladies  ieparately  furnifli  their  own  rooms, 
hire  their  own  domefHcs,  and,  in  fact,  do  what 
they  pleafe  in  the  Harem,  but  are  not  permitted 
to  go  out  without  an  exprefs  order  from  the  em 
peror,  who  very  feldom  grants  them  that  favour, 
except  when  they  are  to  be  removed  from  one 
palace  to  another.  In  that  cafe  a  party  of  foldiers 
is  difpatched  a  little  diftance  before  them,  to  dif- 
perfe  the  male  paffengers  in  particular,  and  t!o 
prevent  the  poilibility  of  their  being  feen.  This 
previous  fr.ep  being  taken,  a  piece  of  linen  cloth 
is  tied  round  the  lower  part  of  the  face,  and  after 
wards  thefe  miferable  females  cover  themfelves 
entirely  with  their  Halcks,  and  either  mount  mules 
v/hich  they  ride  like  men,  or,%  what  is  moreufual, 
are  put  into  a  fqqare  carriage  or  litter,  conilructed 
for  this  purpoie,  which  by  its  lattice-work  allows 
th^m  to  fee  without  being  feen.  In  this  manner 
they  fet  off' under  the  charge  of  a  guard  of  black 
eunuchs.  This  journey,  and  fometimes  a  walk 
within  the  bounds  of  the  palace,  with  which  they- 
sre,  however,  ieldorri  indulged,  is  the  only  ex*- 
crdfe  they  are  permitted  to  take. 

The  emperor's    Harern  confided    of  between 

fixty  and  a  hundred  females,  befides  their  domeftics 

iiad  (kves,  which  were  very  numerous.     The  four 

N  2  wives 


268  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

wives  which  I  have  already  noted  are  by  no  means 
to  be  confidered  as  the  firit  fet  of  which  the  em 
peror  was  poffefled,  fince  forne  died  and  others 
were  repudiated*.  So  that  it  is  a  difficult  matter 
to  determine  what  was  the  precife  number  of  Sidi 
Mahomet's  wives. 

Many  of  the  concubines  were  Moorifn  women, 
who  had  been  prefented  to  the  emperor,  as  the 
Moors  coniider  it  an  honour  to  have  their  daughters 
in  the  Harem;  feveral  were  European  flaves,  who 
had  been  either  made  captives  or  purchaied  by 
the  emperor,  and  fome  were  Negroes. 

In  this  groupe  the  Europeans,  or  their  de- 
fcendants,  had  by  far  the  greateil  claim  to  the 
character  of  handlbme.  There  was  one  in  par 
ticular,  who  was  a  native  of  Spain,  and  taken  into 
ti.e  Karem  at  about  the  fame  age  as  LallaDouyaw, 
who  was  indeed  a  perfect  beauty.  Nor  was  thic* 
lady  quite  lingular  in  that  refpedl:,  for  many  others 
were  almofl  equally  handlbme. 

The  Moorifh  women  have  in  general  an  inex- 
preilive '  countenance,  and  a  ruiUc  fimplicity  of 
manners.  Their  perfons  are  below  the  middle 
feature,  of  a  remarkably  fat  and  iquare  make, 
with  very  large  hands  and  feet.  Their  com 
plexions  are  either  a  clear  brown,  or,  what  is 
more  uiiial,  of  a  fallow  call.  Their  faces  are 
round,  and  their  eyes  in  general  black;  the  note 
and  mouth  very  fmall,  and  the  latter  is  ufually  ac- 
cornpanied  with  a  goo;l  fel  of  teeth. 

*  The  Mahometan  law  allows  a  nran  to  divorce  his 
wife,  provided  (he  does  not  produce  him  any  children, 
and  he  returns  her  the  portion  which  was  agreed  upon 
\ihen  the  marriage  firft  took  place. 

Am  .r.g 


A  TOUR  TO  MOR.OCCO,  &C.  269 

Among  my  patients  in  the  Harem,  was  one  of 
the  Moorifh  concubines,  who  with  a  handfome 
fet  of  features  had  united  an  intolerable  {hare  of 
pride  and  afie elation,  the  effects  of  which  I  ex 
perienced  -in  the  moil  difgulling  degree.  I  wr.i 
defired  to  adrnimfler  to  her  a  remedy  for  a  fight 
complaint  of  the  flomach,  with  which  (he  had 
been  affected  for  a  few  days.  The  medicine  was 
to  be  of  fo  gentle  a  nature  as  not  to  create  the 
\fl  degree  of  pain,  or  any  inconvenience  what 
ever.  Determined  that  (lie  fhouJcl  have  no  reg 
ion  to  complain  on  that  account,  I  prepared  her  a 
powder,  which,  had  (he  given  it  to  a  new- 
infant,  would  have  proved  as  ihoffenfive  ; 
herfelf. 

The  lady,  however,  frill  apprehenfive  of  its  bad 
dTcfts,  obliged  her  younger  filler,  who  was  like- 
v/iie  a  concubine  in  the  Harem,  to  take  it  by  way 
of  trial;  and  then,  if  it  agreed,  it  was  her  intention 
to  rave  had  another  dole  for  herfelf.  Unfortu 
nately  for  me,  the  young  lady,  at  the  idea  of  be 
ing  compelled  to  take  a  medicine  of  which  ihe 
was  not  in  want,  foon  after  {he  had  fwallowed  it 
became  very  fick,- which  fo  alarmed  her  filter, 
that  ihe  immediately  flnt  for  me,  and  upbr, 
me  in  the  fevereft  language,  for  fending  a  medicine 
which  had  nearly  deftroyed  the  young  lady,  \vho 
had  been  in  the  moil  violent  agonies  the  whole 
day;  adding,  that  had  {he  not  been  poffeiTed  of 
a  very  ftrong  conflitution,  fhe  muift  inevitably 
have  perifhed.  She  tauntingly  obferved,  that  (Lc 
had  formed  a  better  opinion  of  the  Chriftians  than 
ihe  now  found  they  deferved;  and  afked  me  im- 
perioufly,  whether  I  was  a  proper  perlon  to  un- 
N  2  dertaki 


270  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &c. 

dertake  the  cure  of  the  fultana?  As  it  was  im~ 
pollible  that  I  could  be  pkafed  with  thefe  igno 
rant  and  unmerited  reproaches,  and  as  I  was  well 
aware  that  fince  I  had  no  directions  to  attend  any 
perfon  but  Lalla  Zara,  it  was  entirely  a  matter  of 
favour  in  me  to  comply  at  all  with  their  requeft, 
I  embraced  the  opportunity  of  at  once  filencing  her 
ill-timed  loquacity,  and  effeftttally  putting  a  flop 
to  fimilar  impertinence  from  any  other  quarter.  I 
explained  to  her,  in  the  firft  place,  that  ib  far 
from  the  medicines  having  the  tendency  of  which 
ihe  accufcd  them,  that  they  in  reality  were  of 
much  too  mild  a  nature  for  a  perfon  of  her  con- 
liitution.  I  added,  that  fince  fhe  entertained  fuch 
iuipiclons  of  them  from  the  firft,  how  could  (he 
be  fo  deftitute  of  affection  and  feeling  as  to  compel 
her  filler  to  take  what  fhe  would  not  venture  upon 
herfelf,  without  regard  to  the  difference  of  her 
age,  or  to  the  ftate  of  the  health?  That  her  un 
grateful  behaviour  would  operate  as  a  difcourage- 
ment  to  me,  and  would  perhaps  prevent  ray  af 
fording  affiftance  to  many  of  the  other  ladies, 
\vhofe  complaints  might  require  much  more  at 
tention  than  hers  did;  and  that  in  future  (he  could 
not  expect  to  receive  from  me,  if  it  (hould  even  be 
necefTary,  the  fmalleft  affiftance.  She  now  began 
to  relent,  and  acknowledged  that  fhe  had  been 
rather  too  warm,  adding  many  apologies,  and 
concluded  with  wiftiing  me  a  happy  return  to  my 
country  and  friends. 

I  could  adduce  many  other  anecdotes  to  illuf- 
trate  the  ignorance  and  pride  of  thefe  unfortunate 
women;  but  this  I  think  will  be  fufficiently  con 
vincing  to  anfwer  the  purpofe.     It  may  not  be  im 
proper 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  27! 

proper  to  add,  that  this  little  altercation  proved 
afterwards  of  great  fervice  to  me  in  the  Harem,  by 
convincing  the  ignorant  part  of  k  that  I  paid  very 
little  attention  to  their  caprice. 

Obferving  that  the  eunuchs  kept  a  very  clofe 
*  and  watchful  eye  over  me  when  I  vifited  the  Harem, 
I  always  took  care  that  my  deportment  in  their 
prelence  ilioukl  be  fuch  as  to  give  them  no  reafon 
for  any  complaint  againft  me.  When  in  the 
apartments  of  iny  patients  I  fometimes  fo  far  for 
got  myfelf,  as  to  enter  into  a  pretty  long  conver- 
iation;  but  I  found  that  the  eunuch  was  always 
difpofed  to  interrupt  our  entertainment,  by  hint 
ing  that  1  had  already  ftaid  too  long,  and  muft 
therefore  depart.  With  Lalla  Douyaw,  however, 
they  feemed  to  have  leis  influence;  and  though  (he 
thought  it  prudent  to  make  them  occaiionai-  pre- 
fents,  yet  (he  never  would  fuffer  me  to  leave  the 
room  till  by  her  own  requefL 

In  one  of  my  vifits  I  obferved  a  procefilon, 
which  upon  inquiry  I  found  was  intended  as  au 
invocation  to  God  and  Mahomet  for  rain,  of 
which  there  had  been  a  fcarcity  for  feveral  pre- 
ceecling  months,  The  proceffion  was  commenced 
by  the  youngefl  children  in  the  Harem,  who 
were'  barely  able  to  walk,  two  a-breaft,  and  thefe 
were  followed  by  the  next  in  age,  till  at  length  a 
great  part  of  the  women  fell  into  the  group  e, 
making  altogether  upwards  of  a  hundred  perfons. 
They  carried  on  their  heads  their  prayers  written 
on  paper,  palled  on  a  fquare  board,  and  proceeded 
through  all  the  courts  finging  hymns,  the  purport 
of  which  was  adapted  to  the  iblemn  occafion.  I 
was  informed  that  they  had  continued  this  cei*e- 
N  4  mony 


"272  A  TOCR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

money  every  day  during  the  whole  of  the  dry 
weather,  and  were  to  repeat  it  till  their  prayers 
were  attended  with  fuccefs. 

Though  the  emperor  occafionally  came  into  the 
Harem,  yet  it  was  more  ufual  for  him  to  give 
nodce  to  thofe  ladies  whofe  company  he  widied,  to 
attend  in  his  apartment  \  when  they  made  a  point 
of  letting  off  their  charms  to  the  bed  advantage. 
When  in  his  prefence  they  paid  him  every  atten 
tion  which  a  common  (lave  would  fhew  to  his 
mailer,  and  never  ventured  to  offer  their  opinion, 
except  by  his  approbation. — But  to  return  to  the 
jrilli  ladies. 

From  the  idea  which  is  fo  prevalent  with  this 
people,  that  corpulency  is  the  moft  infallible  mark 
of  beauty,  the  women  ufe  a  grain  which  they 
name  Ellhouba,  for  the  purpofe  of  acquiring  that 
degree  of  perfonal  excellence  at  which  they  afpire : 
this  they  powder  and  eat  with  their  Cufcofoo. 
They  likewife  take,  with* the  fame  intention,  large 
quantities  of  paite,  heated  by  the  fleam  of  boiling 
water,  which  they  fw allow  in  the  form  of  bo- 
lufes.  It  is  certainly  true,  that  the  number  of 
corpulent  women  in  this  country  is  very  confider- 
able,  but  it  is  probable  that  this  circumftance 
arifes  as  much  from  their  very  confined  and  inac 
tive  mode  of  life,  as  from  any  of  the  particular 
means  which  they  employ  to  produce  that  effecl. 

The  drefs  of  the  ladies  confifts  of  a  fhirt,  with 
remarkably  full  and  loofe  fleeves,  hanging  almoft 
to  the  ground,  the  neck  and  breaft  of  which  are 
left  open,  and  their  edges  are  neatly  embroidered 
•with  gold.  They  wear  linen  drawers, ;  and  over 
the  fhirt  a  Caftan,  which  is  a  drefs  fomething 

fimilar 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  27J> 

fimilar  in  form  to  a  loofe  great  coat  without 
fleeves,  hanging  nearly  to  the  feet,  and  is  made 
either  of  filk  and  cotton  or  gold  tiiTue.  A  fa:h  of 
fine  linen  or  cotton  folded  is  tied  gracefully  round 
the  wnift  and  its  extremities  fall  below  the  knees. 
To  this  fafh  two  broad  ftraps  are  annexed,  and 
paffing  over  each  arm  over  the  fhoulders  form  a 
crofs  on  the  bread,  and  to  that  part  of  it  which 
paflfes  between  the  breaft  and  (boulder  of  each  arm 
is  fixed  a  gold  tortoife,  carelefsly  fufpending  in  fronf 
a  gold  chain.  Over  the  whole  drefs  is  extended 
a  broad  filk  band  of  the  Fez  manufacture,  which 
furrounds  the  waift,  and  completes  the  drefs,  ex 
cept  when  they  go  abroad,  and'  then  they  in  veil 
themfelves  in  a  carelefs  manner  with  the  Haick. 

The  hair  is  plaited  from  the  front  of  tile  he  a. I 
backwards  in  different  folds,  which  hang  locie 
behind,  and  at  the  bottom  are  all  fixed  together 
with  twilled  filk.  Over  the  heads  they  \vear  a. 
long  piece  of  filk  about  half  a  yard  wide,  which 
they  tie  clofe  to  their  head,  and  fuffer  the  long 
ends,  which  are  edged  with  twifted  filk,  to  hang 
behind  in  an  eafy  manner  nearly  to  the  ground. 
The  remainder  of  the  head-dreis  is  completed  by 
a  common  filk  handkerchief  which  furrounds  the 
head  like  a  woman's  cfofe  cap,  *  differing  frptti  ft 
only  by  being  fixed  in  a  full  bow  behind  irifte'ad 
of  in  front.  At  the  upper  part  of  each  ear  hangs 
a  fmall  gold  ring  half  open,  which,  has  at  one  end 
a  clufter  of  precious  ftones,  fufficient  nearly  to 
fill  up  the  vacancy  occafioned  by  the  opcnhK.;  of 
the  ring.  At  the  tip,  or  lower  part  of  the  ear,  is 
likewife  fufpended  a  broad  and  folid 
which  is  fo  large  that  it  reaches 
N 


274  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

neck,  and  which,  as  well  as  the  other,  has  a  clu£- 
ter  of  precious  ft  ones,  in  proportion  to  the  fize  of 
the  ring.  The  ladies  wear  on  their  fingers  feveral 
fmall  gold  rings,  fet  with  diamonds  or  other  pre 
cious  ilones,  and  on  the  wrifts  broad  and  folid 
gold  bracelets,  fometimes  alfo  fet  with  precious 
ftones.  Their  necks  are  ornamented  with  a  great 
variety  of  bead  and  pearl  necklaces.  Below  thefe 
a  gold  chain  fur  rounds  the  neck,  and  fufpends  in 
front  a  gold  ornament. 

Like  the  men,  the  Moorifh  women  wear  no 
ftockings,  but  ufe  red  flippers,  curioufly  embroi 
dered  with  gold  which  they  take  off  when  they 
enter  their  rooms.  Immediately  above  the  ankle, 
each  leg  is  furronnded  with  a  large  folid  gold 
ring,  which  is  narrow  in  front,  but  very  broad 
behind. 

The  ladies  paint  their  cheeks  of  a  deep  red, 
and  (lain  their  eye-lids  and  eye-brows  with  a  black 
powder  which  I  apprehend  to  be  antimony.  It  is 
a  branch  of  artificial  beauty  in  this  country,  to 
produce  a  long  black  mark  on  the  forehead, 
another  on  the  tip  of  the  nofe,  and  feveral  others 
on  each  cheek.  The  chin  is  Gained  of  a  deep  red, 
and  thence  down  to  the  throat  runs  a  long  black 
flripe.  The  infkle  of  the  hands,  and  the  nails,, 
are  fhined  of  a  deep  redx  fo  deep  indeed,  that  in 
moil  lights  it  borders  on  black  ;  and  the  back  of- 
the  hands  have  feveral  fancy  marks  of  the  fame 
colour.  The  feet  are  painted  in  a  fimilar  manner 
with  the  hands. 

I  feldcm  obferved  in  the  Harem  the  women  at 
any  employment  but  that  of  forming  themfelves 
into  different  circles  for  the  purpofe  of  converfa- 

tion,. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  2*]$ 

tion,  fometlmes  in  the  open  courts,  at  others  in 
the  different  apartments.  As  they  are  not  permit 
ted  to  enter  the  mofques,  they  pray  at  the  ap 
pointed  times  in  their  own  chambers.  The  Moors, 
indeed,  entertain  the  prejudice  which  is  commonly 
attributed  to  the  Muflulmen  in  general,  that  the 
female  fex  are  altogether  an  inferior  fpecies  of  ani 
mals,  merely  formed  to  be  flaves  to  the  pleaiures 
of  men,  whofe  falvation  is  confequently  not  of  fa 
much  importance ;  and  with  this  fentiment  the 
conduct  of  the  men  towards  them  in  every  inftance 
correfponds.  The  Moors  like  wife  affign  other 
reafons  for  not  permitting  their  females  to  enter 
their  places  of  worlhip:  they  aflTert  that  it  would 
be  not  only  contrary  to  the  cuftom  which  prevails 
in  the  country,  of  not  allowing  the  fexes  to  meet 
together  in  any  particular  fpot,  but  it  might  alfo, 
by  creating  loole  and  improper  ideas,  draw  off" 
the  attention  from  their  devotion. 

The  women  have  their  Talbas  as  well  rs  the 
men  their  Talbs,  Thefe  perfons  who  are  either 
wives  or  concubines,  juit  as  it  happens,  and  whufe 
principal  qualifications  appear  to  be  reading  or 
writing,  teach  the  younger  part  of  the  Harem  to 
repeat  their  prayers,  and  the  older  females  they 
iiiilrucl  in  the  laws  and  principles  of  their  religion. 

All  the  emperor's  daughters,  and  the  children 
of  his  concubines,  as  foon  as  they  were  of  a  pro 
per  age,  were  lent  to  Tafilet,  where  they  finished 
their  education,  and  by  intermarrying  with  the 
defendants  of  his  ancestors  they  ferved  to  people 
that  extraordinary  city — extraordinary  on  this  ac 
count,  that  the  inhabitants  of  it  are  all  Sharifs,  or 
tbe  fuppoied  lineal  defendants  of  Mahomet,  and 


•2j6  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

2  re  mo  ft  of  them  collaterally  or  othenvife  related 
to  the  prefent  royal  family  of  Morocco.  Muley 
Ifhmael,  who,  as  I  before  obferved,  was  grand 
father  to  the  late  emperor,  had  three  hundred  chil 
dren  at  Tafilet,  and  their  defendants  are  now 
fnppofed  to  amount  to  nine  thoufand  who  all  live 
in  the  fame  place. 

The  fons  of  the  emperor's  wives  are  confidered 
as  princes,  who  have  each  an  equal  claim  to  the 
empire,  and  as  fnch  are  always  refpefted.  If  they 
have  not  difobliged  their  father,  they  are  generally 
appointed  to  the  government  of  fome  of  the  pro 
vinces,  where,  in  the  capacity  of  Bafhaws,  their 
principal  objecl:  is  the  accumulation  of  riches. 

The  reader  will  have  obferved,  that  I  referved 
my  obfervations  on  the  female  part  of  fociety  in 
this  country,  till  I  had  given  fuch  a  general  ac 
count  of  the  Harem  as  might  ferve  for  a  proper 
introduction  to  that  part  of  my  fubject.  By  this 
arrangement  I  have  relieved  myfelf  from  the  tedi- 
oufneis  of  repetition,  and  my  readers  from  that 
obfcurity  which  naturally  enfues  when  information 
is  imparted  in  a  disjointed  ftate.  A  few  obferva 
tions  will  ferve  to  complete  the  description. 

The  Moorlfh  women  may  be  divided  into  two 
clafics;  the  black  or  negro  women,  and  the  white. 

The  fir  ft  are  cither  ilaves  or  have  been  fo  for 
merly  ;  and  from  their  fervices,  or  through  the 
favour  of  their  proprietors  have  obtained  their 
freedom.  Thefe  women  have  all  the  characters, 
both  with  refpcct  to  difpofhion,  features,  and 
complexion,  peculiar  to  the  country  from  which 
they  are  brought.  Many  of  them  arc  in  the  fitu-- 
fition  of  concubines,  and  others  in  that  of  domcf- 
ilcs.  Their  male  children  are  all  brought  up  to 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  27) 

ferve  in  the  army  of  the  emperor.— To  this  clafs 
may  be  added  the  mulattoes,  both  male  and  fe 
male,  who  are  the  produftion  of  a  Moor  and  a 
Negro  woman,  and  are  confequentl}  very  nume 
rous  in  this  empire  •,  but  as  they  differ  but  little 
in  character  from  the  Negroes,  and  are  only  dif- 
tinguifhed  from  them  being  indulged  with  their 
freedom,  I  (hall  p'afs  them  over  without  any  fur 
ther  obfervations. 

Thofe  of  the  female  fex  who  may  be  properly 
confidered  as  natives  of  the  country,  are  of  a 
white,  or  rather  a  fallow  complexion.  From  the 
very  limited  fphere  in  which  they  are  allowed  to 
aft,  and  the  contempt  in  which  they  are  held  as 
members  of  ibciety,  their  characters  admit  of  very 
little  of  that  variety  which  diftinguifhes  the  Eu 
ropean  women.  Happy,  perhaps,  it  is  for  them, 
that  the  fun  of  knowledge  has  never  beamed  upon 
their  gloomy  prifons,  fince  it  could  only  ferve  to 
enlighten  them  to  a  fenfe  of  their  own  mifery, 
difgrace,  and  fervitude !  Happy  is  that  accommo 
dating  power,  which  providence  has  vouchfafed 
to  human-kind,  which  adapts  them  to  their  feveral 
firuations !  and  happy  it  is  that  the  information  of 
mankind  is  generally  fuch  as  fuits  the  fphere  in 
which  they  are  deftined  to  aft ! 

Educated  with  no  other  view  than  for  the  fen- 
fual  purpofes  of  their  matter,  or  hufband,  the  chief 
objeft  of  the  female  fex -of  this  country  is  to  ad- 
minifter  to  his  pleafure,  and  by  the  moft  abjeft 
fubmiflipn  to  alleviate  the  rigours  of  that  fervitude 
to  which  they  are  doomed.    When  in  the  prefence 
.  of  their  defpot,  both  wives  and  concubines  are 
obliged  to  manifeft  the  fame  refpeft  as  his  com 
mon 


278  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

mon  (laves;  and  though  all  are  not  confined  clofely 
to  their  houies  as  is  cuftomary  in  the  emperor's 
Harem,  yet  when  they  do  go  out  they  are  obliged 
to  be  extremely  circumfpeft  in  concealing  their 
faces,  and  cautious  in  every  part  of  their  de 
meanour.  Women  of  diftindlion,  however,  are 
very  feldom  allowed  to  go  abroad-,  it  is  only  thofe 
of  the  loweft  clafs  which  are  ufually  feen  in  the 
ftreets,  and  even  thefe  are  fo  difguifed  and  wrap 
ped  up  in  their  Haicks,  that  they  appear  more 
like  a  bale  of  cloth  put  in  motion,  than  a  human 
form. 

If  they  happen  to  meet  an  European  in  the 
country,  at  a  time  when  no  Moor  is  in  fight,,  they 
feldom  mifs  the  opportunity  of  difpJaying  their 
features,  by  throwing  the  Haick  on  one  fide,  and 
even  to  laugh  and  converfe  with  him,  though  al 
ways  with  the  utmoft  rifk,  as  the  eye  of  jealoufy, 
it  is  well  known,  never  (lumbers. 

If  an  European  or  a  Jew  (hould  be  caught  in  a 
clandeftine  connexion  with  a  Moorifli  woman,  he 
is  obliged  to  become  a  convert  to  the  Mahometan 
faith,  or  his  life  would  be  forfeit  •,  and  the  wo 
man,  I  was  informed,  is  punifhed  either  by  burn 
ing  or  drowning,  though  I  cannot  fay  I  ever  knew 
an  inftance  of  that  dreadful  fentence  being  put  in 
execution.  A  man  indeed  mud;  have  uncommon 
addrefs,  arid  no  fmall  (hare  of  caution,  to  carry 
on  an  intrigue  of  that  kind,  though  on  the  part 
of  the  women  of  this  country  he  will  feldom  want 
for  encouragement. 

It  muft,  however,  be  allowed,  that  the  means 
which  the  Moors  employ  for  the  prevention  of 
intrigues,  very  often  tend  to  the  encouragement  of 

them.. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  279 

them.  By  drefling  themfelves  in  the  female  habit, 
men  may  very  eaflly  pafs  the  ftreets  unobferved,  as 
they  may  reft  allured  they  will  not  be  addrefTed  or 
even  looked  at  by  the  Moors  •,  and  if  they  con 
trive  to  call  at  the  houfe  when  the  mailer  is  from 
home,  they  need  be  under  no  apprehenfions  of 
being  dete&ed  when  he  returns.  If  he  fees  a 
flrange  woman's  flippers  at  the  doors  of  his  Ha 
rem,  he  concludes  it  is  a  female  neighbour,  and 
never  approaches  the  room  till  the  flippers  are 
removed. 

The  drefs  of  the  opulent  females  among  the 
Moors,  is  fimilar  to  that  of  the  emperor's  ladies, 
differing  only  in  the  value  of  the  materials.  Thofe 
of  the  inferior  clafs  wear  linen  drawers,  and 
over  them  a  coarfe  woollen  frock,  tied  round  the 
waifl  with  a  band.  They  plait  the  hair  in  two 
folds,  from  the  upper  part  of  the  head  all  the 
way  down  behind,  wearing  over  it  a  common 
handkerchief  tied  clofe  to  the  head,  and  when, 
they  go  out  they  wear  the  Haick. 


CHAP. 


280  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 


CHAP.     XIII. 

Duplicity  of  the  Emperor. — Plan  of  the  Author  to  cffeft 
his  Emancipation — unfuccefsfuh — Application  through 
another  Channel— Curious  Prefent  fronf  the  Emperor. 
— Striking  Inflame  of  'Tyranny. — Perfonal  Applica 
tion  to  the  Emperor. — Traits  of  Defpotifm. — The  Em 
peror's  D  if  patches  obtained. — -Csmmiffions  from  the  La 
dies  in  the  Harem. — Anecdotes  of  an  Englifh  Mulatto. 
— Journey  to  BULU  A.NE — Defcript'ion  of  that  Fortrefs. 
— Singular  Mode  of  paj/ing  the  River.— Arrival  at 
SALLEE — at  TANGIER, — Prefent  from  the  Emperor* 
— Return  to  Gibraltar. 

HP  EN  days  having  elapfed  fmce  my  ffrftattcnd- 
•*•  ance  on  Lalla  Zara,  the  emperor  defired  my 
patient  to  acquaint  him  what  effect  the  medicines 
had  produced  •,  and  being  informed  that  fne  was 
apparently  in  a  fbte  of  recovery,  he  fent  into  the 
Harem  a  doubloon  piece,  wrapped  up  in  one  cor 
ner  of  a  filk  handkerchief,  and  ordered  the  lady 
to  prefent  me  with  it  as  a  compliment  for  the  fer- 
vice  1  had  already  rendered  her,  accompanied  with 
fplendid  promifes,  if  I  fucceeded  in  reitoring  her 
to  perfect  health. 

Littie  reflection  was  necefTary  to  convince  me, 
that  thefe  manoeuvres  had  an  aim  and  tendency 
very  different  from  that  of  fulfilling  the  emperor's 
engagements  relative  to  my  return.  It  required, 
therefore,  fome  confideration  to  determine,  whe 
ther  it  would  be  mcft  prudent  to  continue  my  at 
tendance,  or  exert  myfelf  immediately  with  re 
doubled  •vigour  to  accomplilh.  my  emancipation. 

The 


A- TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  28  I 

The  latter  mode  of  conduft  I  refolved  upon,  for 
the  following  reafons. 

In  the  firft  place,  I  had  been  abfent  from  the 
garrlfon  much  longer  than  was  originally  intended 
by  government ;  it  was,  therefore,  impoffible  to 
fay  how  far  the  protraction  of  my  refidence  in 
in  Morocco  might  interfere  with  the  arrangements 
of  my  fnperiors,  or  affeft  the  fervice.  Secondly, 
every  European  with  whom  I  converfed,  or  cor- 
reipondeJ,  advifed  me  by  all  means  to  embrace 
the  firft  opportunity  of  returning  •,  fince,  though 
my  patient  was  for  the  prefent  in  a  recovering 
ftate,  yet,  from  the  caprice  and  ignorance  of  the 
Moors,  there  was  fome  reafbn  to  apprehend  that 
fhe  might  tire  of  her  medicines  •,  and  confidering 
the  matter  in  the  moft  favourable  point  of  view, 
fuppofmg  (he  could  be  relieved  entirely  from  her 
complaint,  it  was  not  improbable  that  the  women, 
who  had  been  the  original  occafion  of  her  illnefs, 
upon  obferving  her  recovery,  might  with  the  fame 
diabolical  malignity  which  induced  them  to  ad- 
minifler  the  firft  dofe  of  poifon,  be  inclined  to 
avail  themfelves  of  my  attendance,  and  injure  her 
conftitution  a  fecond  time :  while  all  the  ill  confe- 
quences  would  infallibly  be  attributed  to  my  treat 
ment.  The  age  and  infirmities  of  the  emperor 
alfo  rendering  my  fituation  very  precarious,  deter 
mined  me  to  employ  the  earlieft  opportunity  in 
effefting  my  efcape  j  and  the  following  was  the 
plan  which  appeared  to  promife  the  moft  probable 
iuccefs. 

I  told  my  patient  that  I  had  brought  with  me 
very  little  more  medicine  than  was  fufficient  for 
the  cure  of  Muiey  Abfulemj  and  that  thofe  which 

I  had 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C* 

I  had  adminiftered  to  her  were  the  few  which  had 
not  beet)  ufed  ;  that  as  they  muft  necefTarily  foon 
be  exhaufled,  and  as  my  attendance  on  her  with 
out  medicines  could  anfwer  no  purpofe  whatever, 
I  would  recommend  her  for  her  own  fake,  to  ad- 
vife  the  emperor  to  fend  me  to  Gibraltar  for  a 
frefh  fupjjy.  "  Ah  !"  exclaimed  the  lady,  "  there 
"  is  n©  occafion  for  your  going,  the  emperor  can 
"  write  to  the  conful  for  them."  For  a  reply  of  this 
kind  I  was  not  wholly  unprepared  ;  and  as  I  had 
found  it  necefTary  to  act  a  part  on  this  occafion,  I 
determined  to  go  through  with  it,  and  reluctantly 
to  play  the  empiric,  by  informing  my  patient  that 
the  compofition  of  thefe  medicines  \vas  known  to 
no  perfon  but  myfelf  j  and  therefore  to  write  for 
them  would  be  totally  uielefs.  This  flatement  ap 
peared  unanswerable,  and  my  plan  was  fo  far 
crowned  with  fuccefs.  An  application,  on  my 
account,  was  immediately  made  to  the  emperor  by 
all  the  principal  women,  whom  Lalla  Zara  had 
engaged  in  her  fervice  for  that  purpofe. 

The  emperor,  however,  whofe  difcernment  had 
been  excellent  in  his  youth,  and  whofe  intelle<ft 
was  at  intervals  as  vigorous  as  ever,  was  not  to 
be  impofed  on.  He  promifed  the  women  more 
than  he  ever  intended  to  perform,  and  ten  days 
more  elapfed,  when  I  found  myfelf  as  near  return 
ing  as  on  my  firfl  arrival  at  Morocco. 

Thus  baffled  in  my  attempt,  though  my  inde 
fatigable  female  agents  repeated  their  application 
not  feldomer  than  twice  every  day,  I  applied  to 
a  German  renegado,  who  fpoke  the  Englifh  lan 
guage,  and  who,  from  his  fituation  at  court,  had 
frequent  opportunities  of  feeing  the  emperor  pri 
vately, 


A  TOUR  T"0  MOROCCO^  &C.  283 

vately,  and  intreated  of  him  to  procure  me  a 
licence  to  depart.  But  all  that  he  was  able  to  ob 
tain  in  my  favour,  was  a  renewal  of  the  fame  fair 
promifes  which  had  been  fo  frequently  made,  and 
made  with  the  fame  fincerity.  I  muft  not  omit, 
however,  to  relate,  that  in  a  few  days  after  this 
application,  I  received  from  the  emperor  a.  prefent 
of 'two  hories,  accompanied  with  a  pofltive  af- 
furance  of  being  difpatched  Immediately  home. 

One  of  the  horfes  was  young,  but  was  in  fo 
wretched  and  emaciated  a  flate,  that  he  appeared 
better  calculated  to  afford  food  for  the  canine 
race,  than  to  prove  of  any  utility  to  a  traveller. 
The  other,  it  mutt  be  confefTed,  was  not  in  fo 
flarved  and  miferabje  a  condition,  but  then  he  was 
completely  faperannuated,  and  confequentty  quite 
as  ufelefs  as  his  companion.  He  had  been  prefented 
to  the  emperor  in  the  morning  by  a  poor  man, 
who,  for  fome  trifling  difgrace  which  he  had  in 
curred,  had  brought  this  horfe  as  an  atonement ; 
the  man,  however,  was  committed  to  prifon,  and 
and  in  the  afternoon  the  horfe  was  prefented  to 
me. 

Before  I  could  get  thefe  unparalleled  courfers 
out  of  the  walls  of  the  palace,  I  was  flopped  by 
the  porters  of  four  gates,  who  each  demanded  a 
hard  dollar  as  a  perquifhe  annexed  to  their  places. 
On  my  arrival  at  home,  two  .deputy  matters  of 
horfe  alfo  came  to  my  apartment  for  a  prefent  for 
themfelves,  and  for  their  chief;  fo  that  the  reader 
may  eafily  judge  how  far  I  was  a  gainer  by  the 
emperor's  munificence  ! 

After  this  circurnftance,  feveral  days  having 
dapfed  without  any  profpeft  of  accomplishing 

my 


284  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

my  wiflies,  I  was  adviied  by  an  European,  \vho 
had  come  from  Mogodore  to  Morocco  upon  buii- 
nefs,  as  the  fureft  means  of  fucceeding,  to  feize 
the  firft  opportunity  that  offered  of  the  emperor's 
appearing  in  public,  which  he  feidom  did  fo  as  to 
be  feen  by  Grangers,  and,  trufting  no  longer  to 
other  agents,  at  once  afk  his  majefly  for  my  dif- 
patches.  Fortunately,  as  I  thought,  the  emperor 
afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  feeing  him  the  fol 
lowing  day 5  and,  though  the  foldiers  would  not 
allow  me  to  approach  himfo  near  as  to  enable  me 
to  fpeak  to  him,  yet  I  took  care  to  place  rnyieif 
in  a  confpicuous  fituation;  but  after  continuing 
about  hair  an  hour,  he  retired  without  taking  the 
lead  notice  of  me,  or  even  appearing  to  obfme 
inc. 

The  emperor,  upon  this  cccafion,  was  in  one 
of  his  open  courts  on  horfeback,  with  a  large 
umbrella  fufpended  over  his  head  by  a  foldier  of 
the  negro  infantry,  who  was  ftanding  in  front 
of  the  horfe*,  while  two  other  attendants  were  on 
each  fide,  and*  with  pieces  of  filk  fixed  to  a  cane, 
were,  by  an  eafy  but  conftant  motion,  guarding 
of?  the  flies  from  the  emperor's  face.  Theminii- 
ters  of  flate  were  placed  in  front,  and  behind 
them  were  about  a  hundred  foot  foldiers  in  dif 
ferent  divifions,  forming  altogether  a  kind  of 
crefcent.  Some  of  thcfe  troops  were  armed  with 
mufquets,  which  they  held  in  a  ftifT  manner  clofe 
to  their  bodies,  with  the  muzzles  pointed  perpen 
dicularly,  while  others  had  no  weapon  of  defence 
but  thick  clubs. 

The  fovereign  being  at  this  moment  in  a  good 
humour,  was  coaverfing  with  his  miniflers ;  and, 

as 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C.  28$ 

as  my  interpreter  informed  me,  he  was  boafting 
to  them  of  the  mighty  aftions  which  the  Moors 
had  performed  againft  the  Chriftians  -,  remarking, 
that  his  predeceffors  had  deprived  them  of  nearly 
all  the  places  they  had  formerly  pofTefTed  in  Bar- 
bary,  and  that  he  had  the  fatis  faction  of  having 
taken  Mazagan  from  the  Portngueze.  The  minif- 
ters  entered  very  little  further  into  the  converfation 
than  to  repeat  at  the  conclufion  of  each  fentence, 
Alia  Cormus  Sidi!  in  Englifti,  May  God  preferve 
the  king !  which  was  communicated  to  the  neareft 
party  of  foldiers,  and  from  thofe  to  the  next,  till 
they  made  the  palace  echo  with  their  voices. 

My  ill  fuccefs  upon  this  occafion  did  not  deter 
me  from  making  an  experiment  upon  another 
favourable  opportunity  which  offered,  after  the 
lapie  of  a  few  days.  I  then  had  influence  enough 
with  the  foldiers  to  allow  me  to  approach  fo  very 
near  the  emperor's  perfon,  as  rendered  it  utterly 
impoffible  for  him  to  avoid  obferving  me,  though 
not  fufficiently  clofe  to  enable  me  to  fpeak  to  him. 
A  meifenger  was  confequently  difpatched  by  the 
fovereign  to  know  (ufmg  his  own  expreffion) 
what  the  the  Chriftian  wanted.  I  returned  for 
anfwer,  that  I  came  to  thank  his  majefty  for  the 
honour  he  had  conferred  on  me,  by  prefenting 
me  with  the  two  horfes,  at  the  fame  time  to  re 
mind  him  of  his  royal  promife  to  fend  me  im 
mediately  home.  In  confequence  of  his  attention 
on  firft  feeing  me,  I  expected  every  moment  to 
be  ordered  into  his  immediate  preience,  but  in 
that  refpeft  I  was  difappointed;  for,  after  con- 
verfing  near  half  an  hour  with  his  minifters,  he 

retired 


286  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

retired,'  and  left  me  in  the  fame  ftate  of  fufpenfe 
which  I  had  a  few  days  before  experienced.  The 
emperor  was  on  horfeback,  and  was  endeavouring 
to  explain  to  his  auditors  the  beauties  of  various 
parts  of  the  Koran,  and  laid  a  particular  ftrefs  on 
thofe  paiTages  which  teach  the  followers  of  Ma 
homet  to  deteft  the  Chriftlans. 

Such  repeated  difappointments,  after  having  ex 
erted  myfelf  to  the  utmoft  in  every  mode  I  could 
devife,  it  mull  be  allowed  were  iufficient  to  induce 
me  to  confidcr  my  fituation  as  defperate;  and  I 
felt  myfelf  totally  at  a  lofs  what  further  fteps  could 
be  adopted  in  this  very  critical  fituation.  The  un- 
eafmefs  I  experienced  at  this  moment  was  happily 
not  of  long  continuance,  for  the  day  following 
the  German  renegado  brought  me  the  emperor's 
letter  of  difpatch,  con  filling  merely  of  a  few  lines 
addreffed  to  the  governor  of  Tangier,  ordering  him 
to  permit  me  to  embark,  with  my  two  horfes,  for 
Gibraltar. 

The  reader  will  too  eafily  anticipate  the  extreme 
pleafure  I  felt  at  the  idea  of  fhortly  leaving  a 
country  where  I  had  experienced  fuch  a  continued* 
ieries  of  ingratitude,  difappointment,  and  uneafi- 
nefs,  to  render  it  at  all  neceffary  for  me  to  enlarge 
upon  that  topic.  It  will  be  fumclent  to  fay,  that 
I  loft  no  time  in  making  the  necellary  preparations 
for  the  journey,  and  in  availing  myfelf  of  the 
earlkft  opportunity  to  take  my  leave  of  the  ladies 
in  the  Harem,  mod  carefully  avoiding  to  com 
municate  to  them  the  contents  of  the  emperor's 
letter.  Had  they  known,  indeed,  that  I  was  not 
to  return,  it  is  probable  they  would  have  employed 

the 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  287 

the  fame  influence  for  my  detention,  which  they 
had  before  exerted  before  in  favour  of  my  libera 
tion,  and  moft  likely  with  greater  fuccefs.  * 

It  is  humiliating  and  unpleaiant  in  the  higheft 
degree  to  ftoop  to  deception  upon  any  occafion; 
to  be  obliged,  therefore,  in  juftice  to  myfelf,  and 
for  my  own  perfonal  fafety,  to  carry  on  a  fyfte- 
matical  plan  of  duplicity,  was  not  the  leaft  of  the 
hardfhips  to  which  I  was  compelled  to  iiibmit  in 
this  country.  I  could  not,  however,  now  retreat; 
and,  as  I  knew  that  Gibraltar  furnifhed  many  ar 
ticles  which  were  not  to  be  procured  in  Barbary, 
I  made  an  offer  of  my  fervices  to  the  ladies;  and 
received  the  follow  commiffions,  for  the  faithful 
execution  of  which,  on  my  return  from  Gibraltar, 
I  was  obliged  to  pledge  myfelf. 

For  Lalla  Batoom,  the  queen  of  the  Harem,  a 
fet  of  elegant,  but  very  fmall  cups  and  faucers. 

For  Lalla  Douyav/,  the  emperor's  favourite 
•wife,  a  neat  mahogany  tea-board,  with  four  fhort 
feet,  to  have  two  drawers,  and  to  be  elegantly 
ornamented  with  glafTesj  a  f-et  of  very  fmall  Indian 
cups  and  faucers;  a  fet  of  different  kinds  of  per 
fumed  waters. 

For  Lalla  Zara,  my  patient,  nine  yards  of 
yellow,  the  fame  of  crimibri,  and  the  fame  of  cochi 
neal  coloured  datnafk ;  the  fame  quantities  and 
colours  in  fatins;  one  dozen  of  Indian  cups  and  fau 
cers;  one  hundred  large  red  beads;  one  cheft  of 
tea  and  fugar;  a  large  quantity  of  coffee  and  nut 
megs. 

For  one  of  the  concubines,  a  large  portion  of 
different  coloured  fat  tins  and  filks;  a  variety  of 
handibme  pearls ;  a  fet  of  Indian  cups  and  lancers ; 

two 


2B8  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

two  fmall  mahogany  boxes  for  cloaths;  two 
japanned  tea-boards,  the  one  to  be  white  and  the 
other  yellow. 

For  another  concubine,  fome  perfumed  waters-, 
a  mahogany  beadftead  >and  ports  j  a  green  Dutch 
box. 

For  Lalla  Talba,  a  prieftefs,  a  handfome  pre- 
fent,  which  fhe  leaves  to  my  tafte  and  choice. 

For  the  daughter  of  Muley  Hafem,  a  ma 
hogany  cheft  with  two  drawers  j  a  flafk  of  laven 
der  water. 

For  Lalla  Zara's  nurfc,  twelve  large  red  beads. 

For  two  of  the  eunuchs,  each  a  filver  watch. 

Thefe  commifEons  may  perhaps  appear  too  tri 
fling  to  deferve  infertion;  but  I  have  brought  them 
forward  to  the  reader  only  becaufe  thefe  little 
circnmftances  frequently  difplay  the  peculiar  tafte, 
the  manners,  the  genius  of  a  country,  much  bet 
ter  than  thofe  weighty  and  important  tranfaftions 
in  which  the  paffions  common  to  human  nature 
muft  be  interefted,  and  in  which,  of  confequence, 
all  people  in  fimilar  circumftances  muft  aft  and 
fcel  alike. 

It  would  have  required  no  trifling  fum  of  money 
to  purchafeall  thefe  articles;  and  even  when  that 
obftacle  was  removed,  there  would  a  rife  one  ftill 
greater  from  the  difficulty  of  tranfportation  in  this 
country.  As  Morocco  is  an  inland  city,  I  was 
entirely  precluded  from  the  fafeft  and  eafieft  of 
carriages-,  and  by  land,  many  of  the  articles  were 
focumberfome  and  weighty,  that  in  the  bad  roads 
it  would  have  been  impracticable  to  employ  mules. 
I  llioiild  therefore  have  been  reduced  to  the  necef- 
fity  of  hiring  camels,  the  expence  of  which, 

joined 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  289 

joined  to  that  of  the  commiffions,  would  con- 
fequently  have  been  enormous. 

Having  fupplied  Lalla  Zara  with  the  few  me 
dicines  which  remained,  and  taken  my  final  leave 
of  the  Harem,  my  next  objeft  was  to  find  out  a 
new  interpreter,  fince  the  perfon  whom  I  had 
procured  at  Mogodore,  had  it  not  in  his  power 
to  accompany  me  to  to  Tangier.  In  his  place 
I  fixed  upon  a  mulatto,  who  was  born  a  ChrifKan 
in  one  of  the  Englifh  Weft  India  Iflancls,  and  up 
on  coming  to  Mogodore  as  a  feaman  in  an  Engli/h 
veflel,  was  immediately  on  account  of  his  com 
plexion,  claimed  by  the  Moors  as  a  countryman. 
They  committed  him  immediately  to  prifon,  and, 
by  the  influence  of  hard  ufage,  at  length  compelled 
him  to  become  a  convert  to  their  religion.  This 
man,  who  is  between  fixty  and  feventy  years  of 
age,  has  been  in  the  country  about  ieven  years, 
and  was  occafionally  employed  in  the  public  works 
by  the  late  emperor.  He  can  fpeak  the  English, 
French,  Spaniih,  Italian,  and  Arabic  languages, 
but  the  Englifh  is  moft  familiar  to  him. 

The  horie  prefented  to  me  by  Muley  Abfulera 
I  mounted  myfelf,  and  made  my  interpreter  ride 
thofe  of  the  emperor  alternately,  that  I  might  give 
them  every  poflible  chance  of  reaching  Tangier 
alive,  in  'cafe  I  could  not  difpofe  of  them  on  the 
road.  Thefe,  with  three  horfe  ibldiers  allowed 
by  the  emperor,  two  mules  for  my  baggage,  and 
a  muleteer  to  take  charge  of  them,  formed  the 
whole  of  my  fuite  on  the  journey. 

We  departed  from  Morocco  on  the   iath  of 

February   1790,  and  in  three  days  arrived  at  the 

onle  of  Buluane,  which  is  a  joiirney  of  about 

O  eighty 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

eighty  miles,  confifting  of  an  uninterrupted  feries 
of  wild  uncultivated  heath.  This  caftle  was  the 
firft  piece  of  architecture  which  offered  itfelf  to 
our  view  fince  we  left  Morocco  5  the  country  be 
ing  very  thinly  inhabited  by  only  a  few  Arabs, 
who  live  in  tents.  In  thefe  Douhars  or  encamp 
ments,  I  endeavoured,  on  the  fcore  of  fafety, 
nightly  to  pitch  my  tent. 

The  caftle  is  fituated  on  the  fummit  of  a  very 
kigh  and  rugged  hill,  forming  on  its  Northern 
fide  a  fteep  precipice,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
runs  a  deep  and  rapid  river,  named  the  Morbeya, 
which  I  had  previouily  pafTed  at  its  termination  in 
the  ocean  at  Azamore.  As  a  piece  of  architecture, 
this  caftle  has  no  recommendation  but  the  ftrength 
of  its  walls  :  it  is  inhabited  by  fome  Negroes  who 
were  banifhed  to  this  place,  at  the  time  when  Sidi 
Mahomet  thought  proper  to  difband  a  confider- 
able  portion  of  his  black  troops  ;  intending,  by 
that  means,  to  prevent  their  raifing  a  mutiny  or 
rebellion  in  the  country,  to  which,  as  I  have  inti 
mated,  they  are  always  inclined.  To  difpofe  of 
them  in  this  manner,  therefore,  was  found  policy, 
as,  though  they  were  out  of  the  way  of  mifchief 
for  the  prefent,  they  might  eafily  be  embodied 
upon  any  prefling  emergency. 

The  eminent  fituation  of  this  fortrefs,  the  fteep 
and  rugged  precipice,  the  depth  and  rapidity  of 
the  river  below,  with  the  wildnefs  of  the  neigh 
bouring  country,  fill  the  mind  with  a  mixture  of 
admiration  and  fublime  horror.  But  what  attrac 
ted  my  attention  more  than  any  other  circum- 
itance,  was  the  mode  in  which  they  pafs  this  dan 
gerous  river.  At  Azamore,  Sallee,  Mamora, 

Larache, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  2pl 

Larache,  &c.  where  the  rivers  are  too  deep  to  be 
forded,  the  traveller  is  ferried  over ;  and  yet  at 
this  part,  though  at  no  very  great  diftance  from 
any  of  the  above  places,  the  people  are  totally 
ignorant  what  kind  of  a  machine  a  boat  is.  What 
is  frill  more  remarkable,  the  firft  people  of  the 
country  who  are  obliged  to  pals  this  river  in  their 
way  from  Morocco  to  all  the  Northern  provinces, 
and  who  are  as  well  acquainted  with  the  ufe  of 
boats  as  the  Europeans,  are  content  to  fubmit  to 
the  crazy  fubftitute  which  they  find  here,  rather 
than  impart  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  caftle  this 
eafy  piece  of  information. 

The  mode  in  which  thefe  people  crofs  the  river, 
ferved  to  remind  me  of  a  puerile  amufement,  in 
which  moll:  boys  at  one  period  or  other  have 
taken  delight.  A  raft  is  formed  of  eight  fheep- 
fkins,  filled  with  air,  and  tied  together  with  fmall 
cords;  a  few  (lender  poles  are  laid  over  them,  to 
which  they  are  fattened,  and  this  is  the  only  means 
ufed  at  Buluane  to  conduct  travellers  with  their 
baggage  over  the  river. 

As  ibon  as  the  raft  is  loaded,  in  other  words, 
as  foon  as  it  is  charged  with  as  much  weight  as  it 
will  bear  without  finking,  a  man  ftrips,  jumps  in 
to  the  water,  and  fwims  with  one  hand,  while 
he  pulls  the  raft  after  him  with  the  other;  and 
in  the  mean  time,  a  fecond  places  himfelf  behind, 
pniliing  and  fwimming  in  a  fimilar  manner.  The 
current  at  firft  carries  the  apparatus  a  confiderable 
\vay  down  the  river,  but  by  the  activity  of  the 
fwimmers  it  is  fpeedily  extricated,  and  its  contents 
as  quickly  landed.  The  horfes,  mules,  &c.  having 
every  article  removed  from  their  backs,  are  driven 
O  2  ID. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

'  in  a  body  to  the  water  fide,  where  the  Moors  im 
mediately  get  behind  them,  and  by  the  violence 
of  their  (houts  fo  completely  terrify  the  animals, 
that  one  or  two  of  them  fpeedily  take  to  flight,  and 
fet  the  example,  by  fwimming,  to  the  reft,  when 
they  immediately  follow. 

Four  days  after  leaving  this  river,  we  arrived 
at  Sallee,  which  is  about  a  hundred  and  ten  miles 
from  Buluane,  and  one  hundred  and  ninety  from 
Morocco,  without  the  occurrence  of  a  circumflance 
worth  relating;  the  country  proving  a  continuance 
of  the  fame  uncultivated  heath  as  far  as  Menfooria, 
which  has  been  defcribed  in  a  former  part  of  this 
Tour. 

Sallee  being  the  firft  town  I  had  feen  fmce  my 
departure  from  Morocco,  which  was  feven  days, 
I  was  happy  to  avail  myfelf  of  my  former  intro- 
dudlion.  to  the  French  conful,  and  remain  with 
him  a  couple  of  nights.  After  this  agreeable  re 
laxation,  I  departed  for  Tangier,  where  I  arrived 
on  the  26th  of  February. 

As  it  was  evident  that  the  horfes  which  had  been 
prefented  to  me  by  the  emperor,  were  not  worth 
the  expence  of  exportation,  and  indeed  feemed 
fcarcely  able  to  encounter  the  journey,  I  took 
every  oportunity  that  offered  on  the  road  to  difpofe 
of  them,  but  my  efforts  were  not  attended  with 
fuccefs;  and  by  the  time  I  arrived  at  Mamora,  they 
were  fo  completely  tired,  that  they  would  certain 
ly  have  died  had  I  nfed  them  another  day.  I  there 
fore  found  it  necefTary  to  leave  them  in  the  care 
cf  a  Venetian  gentleman  who  refided  at  Mamora, 
with  a  requefl  to  difpofe  of  them  in  the  belt  man 
ner  he  could;  and,  as  I  did  not  like  to  lofe  the 

advantage 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C« 

advantage  of  the  order  for  embarkation,  which  is 
always  to  be  confidered  as  very  valuable,  fmce 
no  horfes  are  exported  but  by  an  exprefs  order  of 
the  emperor,  under  his  fign  manual,  I  requefted 
this  gentleman  to  purchafe  for  me  two  of  the  belt 
that  were  to  be  procured  in  the  province,  and  to 
lend  them  after  me  to  Tangier*,  but  they  unfortu 
nately  did  not  arrive  in  time. 

In  about  a  fortnight  after  my  arrival  at  Tangier, 
nn  order  came  down  from  the  emperor,  defiring 
the  governor  to  purchafe  at  the  expence  of  his 
royal  treafury,  two  oxen,  ten  fheep,  ten  milch 
goats  with  their  kids,  a  hundred  fowls,  and  a  large 
proportion  of  fruit  and  vegetables  of  every  defcrip- 
tion.  Thefe  articles  were  to  be  prefented  to  me 
as  from  the  emperor,  in  return  for  my  attendance 
on  Lalla  Zara;  and  I  was  to  be  allowed  per- 
miffion  to  embark  them  free  of  all  duty,  for 
Gibraltar.  The  fame  order  brought  like  wife 
a  requeft  from  the  emperor,  that  I  would  en 
gage  to  fend  my  patient  a  frefh  fupply  of  me 
dicines. 

On  the  ayth  of  March  I  arrived  at  Gibraltar. 
It  would  be  trifling  with  the  reader  to  defcribe  my 
feelings  on  the  firft  view  of  a  fpot,  protedled  by 
Englifh  laws,  and  decorated  by  English  manners. 
My  fenfations,  indeed,  may  be  more  ea.fi ly  con 
ceived  than  they  can  be  exprefled.  Let  it  fuffice 
to  fay,  that  no  wretch,  efcaped  from  the  gloomy 
horrors  of  a  dungeon,  could  experience  more 
lively  pleafure  on  firft  contemplating  the  light  of 
day,  than  I  felt  on  the  firft  view  of  an  Englifh 
garrifon. 

03  As 


294  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

As  the  communication  between  the  garrifon  and 
Barbary  was  not  open  at  the  time  of  my  arrival, 
the  prefent  of  the  emperor  proved  more  valuable 
than  I  at  fir  ft  conceived  it.  It  is  obvious,  how 
ever,  that  its  amount,  and  indeed  the  total  of  all 
which  I  received  during  my  refidence  in  the  coun 
try,  could  fcarcely  be'  more  than  adequate  to  my 
expences  •,  much  lefs  could  it  be  confidered  as  a 
compenfation  for  the  great  rifle,  the  trouble,  and 
the  anxiety  which  I  had  encountered.  I  had  been 
under  the  neceffity  of  drawing  upon  the  conful 
for  confiderable  fiims,  befides  what  I  received 
through  other  channels;  fo  that  I  returned  from 
my  expedition  with  my  curiofity  fatisfied,  my 
mind,  I  truft,  in  fome  degree  enlightened,  as  far 
as  the  obfervation  of  a  different  country,  and  dif- 
tvrent  manners,  ferves  to  improve  our  flock  of 
knowledge;  but,  in  a  pecuniary  view,  I  certainly 
returned  very  little  better  than  I  went*. 

*  It  is  certainly  incumbent  on  me  to  add,  that  my  fer- 
vices  in  Barbary  have  fince  been  handfomely  rewarded  in 
the  appointment  of  Surgeon  to  the  ioth  or  Jamaica  Regi 
men  t  of  Light  Dragoons. 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  295 


CHAP.     XIV. 

Return  of  the  Author  to  Barbary. — TETUAN — Town 
and  Buildings — Port. — Prefent  State  of  the  Empire  of 
MOROCCO  under  MULEY  YAZID. — Anecdotes  rela 
tive  to  his  acceffion. — MULEY  YAZID  Jent  to  MECCA 
by  his  Father — his  Return — takes  Refuge  in  a  Sanc 
tuary. — State  of  the  late  Emperor.— Death  of  SIDI 
MAHOMET. — DiJJentiGn  among  the  Princes.— MULEY 
HAS  EM  proclaimed  Emperor — retraces  his  P ret  en* 
thns. — Anecdote  relative  to  MULEY  ABDRAHAMAN 
— curious  Letter  from  him  to  MULEY  YAZID. — His 
Submi/jion. — Peaceable  EJlabli/hmeni  of  MULEY  YA- 
1  ID. — Depredations  of  the  Arabs, — Perfecution  of  the 
yews. — Death  of  ALCAIDE  ABBAS. — Char  a  tier  of 
MULEY  YAZID. — Death  of  MULEY  YAZID. 

SOON  after  my  arrival  at  Gibraltar,  I  was  pre 
vailed  upon  to  digefl  and  arrange  the  notes  and 
obfervations  which  I  had  made  during  my  refidence 
in  Barbary,  and  to  publifh  propofals  for  a  nar 
rative  of  my  Tour.  In  thefe  propofals,  having 
engaged  to  relate  the  particulars  of  the  emperor's 
death,  and  of  his  fons  fucceffion,  and  being  defirous 
of  procuring  every  information  that  could  ferve 
to  complete  my  account  of  the  empire  of  Morocco, 
I  obtained  leave  of  abfence  for  a  (hort  time  from 
the  garrifon  for  the  purpofe,  and  was  induced 
from  that  motive  to  pny  a  '.econd  vifit  to  Tangier,. 
It  would  be  ufelefs  to  detain  the  reader  with  any 
further  defcription  of  that  place,  I  (hail  therefore 
only  obferve,  that  after  diligently  collecting  all 
the  information  political  or  otherwife^  that  I  could 
O  4  procure, 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

procure,  I  availed  myfelf  of  the  opportunity  of 
vifitipg  Tetuan,  which  the  new  emperor  had 
once  more  opened  to  the  refort  of  Chriftians;  and 
which  I  had  long,  with  much  earneftnefs,  defired 
to  fee. 

The  city  of  Tetuan  is  very  pleafantly  fituated 
at  the  opening  of  the  Straits  into  the  Mediter 
ranean;  it  is  built  on  a  rifmg  ground  between  two 
ranges  of  high  mountains,  one  of  them  forming  a 
part  of  the  leffer  Atlas.  It  lies  about  ten  leagues 
to  the  Eaft  of  Tangier,  and  commands  a  very 
beautiful  profpeft  of  the  Mediterranean,  from 
\vhich  it  is  diftant  about  five  miles;  and  the  valley 
near  which  it  is  fituated  is  variegated  with  gardens, 
plantations  of  olives,  and  vineyards,  and  is  orna 
mented  with  a  river,  which  takes  its  courfe  di 
rectly  through  its  centre. 

The  ban  en  and  gloomy  appearance  of  the  lofty 
mountains,  which  feem  almoft  to  project  over  each 
fide 'of  the  town,  contrafted  with  the  beautiful 
verdure  with  which  it  is  immediately  furrounded, 
the  diftant  view  of  the  fea,  and  the  ferpentine 
dire<5lion  of  the  river,  which  is  navigable  for 
foiall  craft  as  far  as  Marteen,  afford  altogether 
a  fcene  in  the  higheft  degree  piclurefque  and 
romantic. 

The  town  itfelf  is  of  very  confiderable  extent, 
and  its  walls  are  flanked  in  different  parts  with 
fquare  forts,  on  which  a  few  fmall  pieces  of 
ordnance  are  mounted.  This  fortification,  how 
ever,  is  merely  calculated  to  defend  the  place 
againft  an  attack  from  the  Arabs,  who,  when 
difcontented,  are  ready  to  plunder  every  riling 
Y/hich  is  expofed  to  their  depredations ;  but  •  it 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

could  by  no  means  refift  the  exertions  of  a  regular 
army.  Befides  thefe  fmall  forts,  there  is  a  fqtiare 
caflle  on  the  fbmmit  of  the  hill,  on  which  twenty-^ 
four  pieces  of  cannon  are  mounted;  though  this 
is  alfo  but  a  weak  and  ill-conftrufted  piece  of  for 
tification,  yet  from  its  elevated  fituatioti  it  com 
mands  the  town  in  every  diredtion. 

The  ftreets  of  Tetuan  are  very  narrow,  filthy,, 
and  many  of  them  are  nearly  arched  over  by  the 
houfes.  Of  the  intention  of  thefe  projections  I 
could  form  no  conception,  unlefs  they  are  meant, 
by  keeping  off  the  rays  of  the  fun,  to  render  the 
ftreets  cooler  in  the  fummer  feaibn.  If  fo,  it 
muft  on  the  other  hand  be  allowed,  that  they 
alfo  prevent  a  free  circulation  of  air,  which,  in  a 
hot  climate,  and  in  ftreets  fo  narrow  and  filthy, 
muft  be  greatly  injurious  to  the  health  of  the  in 
habitants. 

Though  the  houfes  have  a  very  mean  appearance 
from  the  ftreets,  yet  their  apartments  in  general 
are  roomy,  tolerably  convenient,  rind  well  fur- 
nifhed;  and,  contrary  to  thofe,  of  Tangier,  are 
built  two  ftories  high.  The  El'caifTeria,  or  fair 
for  the  difpofal  of  goods,  is  filled  with  fhops,  con-, 
taining  a  great  variety  of  very  valuable  articles, 
both  of  European  and  their  own  manufacture. 
From  Fez  they  procure  the  articles  of  that  place, 
as  well  as  thofe  of  Tunis,  Algiers,  Alexandria,. 
and  Guinea.  From  Spain  and  Gibraltar  they  im 
port  thofe  of  Eu-pope,  for  which  they  give  in  re 
turn  provifions  and  fruit  of  every  defcription; 
of  all  the  towns  in  the  empire,  therefore,  Tetuan 
may  now  be  confidered  as  next  to  Fez  in  commer 
cial  importance, 

O  5  Aa 


2p8  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

As  the  Moorifh  inhabitants  are  principally  mer 
chants  on  a  large  fcale,  they  are  opulent,  much 
more  polifhed  and  accefTible  to  Grangers  than  thofe 
of  inoft  of  the  other  towns  in  this  empire.     Their 
complexions  are  generally  fair,  and  they  are  alto 
gether  a  well- looking  people.     On  our  firft  arrival, 
from  the  novelty  of  feeing  Chriftians  in  the  town 
after  an  exclufion  of  nearly  twenty  years,  when 
we  walked  the  ftreets  the  people  univerially  ran 
out  of  their  houfes  to  look  at  us ;  and  a  very  con- 
iiderable  body  of  them  for  fome  time  followed  us 
wherever  we  went.     They,  however,  by  no  means 
offered  us  any  kind  of  inlult ;  on  the  contrary,  in 
deed,  being  informed  that  we  were  Englifh,  they 
exprefled  every  mark  of  fatisfaclion,  and  many 
of  them  invited  us  to  their  gardens.     The  Moors 
were  always  partial  to  the  Englifh  in  preference 
to  every  other  European  nation;  they  even  pro- 
feffed  their  attachment  at  the  very  time  when  Sidi 
Mahomet  was  upon  fuch  ill  terms  with  our  court; 
and  fmce  Muley  YazicT's  acceffion,  they  have  given 
the  moil:  unlimited  fcope  to  the  expreflion  of  their 
partiality. 

The  Mofques  of  Tetuan  are  very  large,  nume 
rous,  and  appear  to  have  by  far  a  greater  claim 
to  magnificence,  than  thofe  ia  the  other  towns  of 
the  empire. 

The  Jews  in  this  place,  previous  to  the  late 
plunder  by  order  of  the  new  emperor,  were  weal 
thy;  they  live  by  themfelves  in  a  feparate  part  of 
the  town,  where  they  are  (hut  out  every  night 
from  the  Moors;  their  women  are  remarkable  for 
their  clearnefs  of  complexion,  and  the  beauty  of 
their  features. 

The 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

The  port  of  Tetuan,  is  fituated  at  about  two 
miles  diftance  from  the  fea,  and  is  named  Marteen; 
at  this  place  there  is,  however,  only  a  fingle  houfe, 
which  is  ufed  for  the  pnrpofe  of  collefting  the 
cufloms.  As  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  which 
it  is  fituated,  is  now  nearly  choaked  up  with  fand, 
it  only  admits  of  fmall  craft;  and  even  thefe  can 
proceed  no  further  than  Marteen,  where  there  are 
ufually  a  few  of  the  emperor's  row-gallies  laid  up 
to  winter. 

The  entrance. of  the  river  is  defended  by  a  high 
and  fquare  tower,  on  which  are  mounted  twelve 
pieces  of  cannon.  This  fortification  might  anfwer 
the  purpofe  of  preventing  the  approach  of  fmall 
vefTels,  but  it  is  by  no  means  calculated  to  oppofe 
any  confiderable  force.  The  bay,  or  more  proper 
ly  the  road,  of  Tetuan,  is  formed  by  a  high  point 
of  land  which  runs  out  into  the  fea  a  confiderable 
diftance  to  the  Weft  of  the  river,  and  will  only 
Shelter  vefTels  in  a  wefterly  wind;  when  it  veers 
round  to  the  Eafhvard,  they  are  obliged  to  leave 
the  bay,  and  retire  to  fome  fafer  port. 

During  my  continuance  at  Tetuan,  I  was  not 
inattentive  to  the  main  object  of  this  expedition: 
but*  as  the  information  which  I  could  collect  there, 
was  not  materially  different  from  what  I  learned  at 
Tangier,  I  |fhall  blend  the  different  accounts  to 
gether,  and  haflen  to  gratify  the  reader's  curiofity, 
as  far  as  it  lies  in  my  power,  concerning  the  fuc- 
ceeding  events  which  took  place  in  the  empire, 
from  the  time  of  my  leaving  Morocco  to  the  ac- 
ceffion  and  death  of  the  late  emperor.  The  infor 
mation  which  I  obtained  in  confequence  of  my 
fecond  vifit  toBarbary,  concerning  the  events  that 

took 


300  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

took  place  in  the  empire  fubfequent  to  the  death 
of  Sidi  Mahomet,  and  which  I  communicated  in 
my  firft  edition,  were  the  moft  authentic  and  bell 
I  could,  in  the  ihort  time  I  was  in  the  country, 
procure;  fince  my  return  to  Gibraltar,  however, 
ieveral  new  circumflances  have  arifen,  which  have 
obliged  me  to  alter  both  my  original  plan  and  fen- 
timents,  and  to  carry  on  my  narrative  up  to  the 
death  of  Muley  Yazid,  whole  conduft  will  now 
appear  in  a  very  different  light  to  what  it  did  at 
the  firft  view.  The  difficulty  of  obtaining  an  im 
partial  account  of  the  politics  of  a  country  in 
\vhich  individuals  are  cautious  to  a  degree  how 
they  exprefs  their  fentiments,  will  be  deemed,  I 
hope,  a  fufficient  apology  for  my  concifenefs  on 
this  fubjeft,  as  well  as  for  any  errors  into  which 
I  inadvertently  may  have  fallen. 

Muley  Yazid,  whofe  mother  is  the  offspring 
of  an  Englifn  renegado,  having  incurred,  a  few 
years  ago,  his  father's  dilpleaiure,  was  lent  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca  •,  the  old  emperor  hoping,  that 
by  feeing  the  world  he  would,  in  a  maturer  age, 
reform,  and  be  brought  to  a  fenfe  of  his  duty. 

Upon  his  approaching  the  frontiers,  about  four 
3'ears  ago,  very  ftrong  and  leemingly  authentic 
reports  were  circulated,  that  he  was  on  his  march 
with  a  large  army  to  dethrone  his  father.  Thefe 
rumours  could  not  fail  to  affeft  the  old  man  with 
confiderable  anxiety,  which,  however,  was  after 
wards  removed  by  the  retreat  of  Muley  Yazid  to 
Tunis,  without  having  made  any  hoftiie  exertions 
whatever. 

In  the  fummer  of  1789  the  prince  privately 
entered  the  country,  and  took  refuge,  as  has  al- 

alrcady 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  30! 

ready  been  intimated,  in  a  fanftuary  named  Muley 
Abfulem.  To  this  facrecl  fpot,  which  is  held  in 
great  veneration  by  the  Moors,  he  retired  as  a 
place  of  fafety,  without  any  intention  of  attacking 
his  father,  but  merely  to  remain  there  in  readinefs 
to  declare  himfelf,  when  the  emperors  death  fhould 
take  place,  which,  from  his  great  age  and  infirmi 
ties,  was  evidently  an  event  which  could  not  be 
very  diflant.  Here  he  had  no  people  about  him, 
but  three  or  four  faithful  attendants,  and  lived  a 
ftridHy  retired  life,  as  far  removed  as  can  wrell  be 
conceived  from  that  ftate  and  confequence  which, 
are  ufually  affedted  by  princes. 

The  old  emperor,  however,  confidered  his  fon's 
intentions  in  a  far  different  point  of  view,  and  ufed 
every  ilratagem  he  could  invent  to  draw  him  out 
of  the  fanftuary,  but  without  fuccefs. 

At  one  time  he  wrote  him  word,  that  if  he 
would  come  to  court,  he  would  reinftate  him  in 
his  affections,  and  acquiefce  in  every  demand  he 
would  make;  or,  if  he  chofe  to  leave  the  country, 
he  would  allow  him  fufficient  to  live  in  Turkey, 
or  at  Mecca,  refpe&ed  as  a  prince.  On  another 
occafion  he  threatened  to  attack  him,  pull  down 
the  fanftuary,  and  take  him  away  by  force.  To 
all  thefe  letters,  the  prince,  .by  the  prudent  advice 
of  his  mother,  with  whom  he  kept  up  a  private 
correfpondence,  always  evaded  giving  a  pofitive 
anfwer.  He  allured  his  father  of  his  affeftion, 
duty,  and  the  purity  of  his  intentions ;  and,  with 
out  refufing  to  acquiefce  in  his  wifties,  fent  fome 
excufe  or  other,  explaining  why  he  could  not  for^ 
the  prefent  comply,  but  promifing  that  he  would 
toon. 

It 


302  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

It  is  difficult  to  conjefture,  whether  the  emperor 
•would  have  ufed  any  violence  towards  his  Ton,  in 
cafe  he  had  repaired  to  court.  But  it  is  well 
known,  that  the  old  monarch  wifhed  particularly, 
that  Muley  Abfulem  might  be  his  fucce/Tor,  and 
that  he  had  a  private  diflike  to  Muley  Yazid;  which 
were  fufficient  motives  for  the  prudent  conduft  of 
the  latter. 

The  various  reports  that  were  circulated  through 
the  country,  and  particularly  by  the  people  at 
court,  that  Muley  Yazid's  intentions  were  hoftile 
to  his  father,  and  the  great  efteem  in  which 
he  knew  he  was  held  by  every  individual  in  the 
country,  made  the  emperor  confider  this  fon  as  a 
very  dangerous  rival. 

I  have  already  ib  fully  reprefented  the  ftate  in 
which  the  emperor  was  at  that  period,  that  it 
would  be  only  a  repetition  to  expatiate  on  it  at  pre- 
fent.  It  will  be  fufficient  to  fay,  that  after  three 
or  four  months  unfuccefsful  negotiations,  the  em 
peror  fent  down  his  fon  Muley  Hafem  to  Tangier, 
with  au  army  of  fix  thoufand  Negroes,  which 
were  to  be  reinforced  by  men  drawn  from  the 
neighbouring  provinces.  The  prince's  direftions 
were,  to  offer  a  confiderable  reward  from  the 
emperor  to  the  perfons  who  had  the  care  of  the 
fandhiary,  if  they  would  fur  render  or  expel  Muley 
Yazid ;  but  if  they  refufed  to  comply  with  this 
requcft,  he  was  to  pull  down  the  fanflnary,  to 
feize  Muley  Yazid;  and  put  every  man,  woman, 
and  child,  in  the  neighbourhood,  to  the  fword. 
This  ianguinary  edift,  however,  the  Sharifs  had 
fpirit  or  enthufiafm  enough  to  refift*,  and  Muley 

*  See  pag  156,  where  thia  order  of  the  em-peror  refpe6t- 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  303 

Hafem,  not  having  fecured  the  confidence  of  his 
troops,  was  afraid  to  attack  his  brother.  When 
they  were  encamped  at  Tangier,  he  did  not  even 
venture  to  deep  among  them,  but  at  night  always 
retired  to  the  caftle. 

Difgufled  with  this  fruitlefs  attempt,  the  em 
peror  called  his  fon  a  coward  and  a  trifler;  and 
immediately  ordered  Alcaide  Abbas,  the  com 
mander  in  chief  of  the  black  army,  and  the  beft 
officer  in  his  fervice,  to  fupercede  Muley  Hafem 
in  the  command.  Abbas  carried  a  confiderablc 
reinforcement  to  the  army  already  at  Tangier,  and 
was  foon  after  joined  by  Muley  Slemma,  the  late 
emperors  full  brother.  Thefe  two  officers  were 
direfted  to  encamp  near  the  fanftuary,  and  wait 
there  till  joined  by  the  emperor  himfelf,  with  a  con- 
iiderable  army  from  the  fouthward. 

For  this  pnrpofe  the  emperor  left  Morocco 
on  the  29th  March  1 790,  and  travelled  on  horfe- 
back.  At  the  time  he  was  paffing  out  at  the  gate 
of  the  city,  the  umbrella,  which  is  always  carried 
before  the  emperor,  and  in  that  country  is  the 
diftinftive  mark  of  royalty,  fuddenly  broke  in  two, 
and  the  head  was  carried  up  in  the  air  to  a  con- 
fiderable  height  before  it  fell. 

That  the  enfign  of  royalty  fliould  be  in  fo  un 
accountable  a  manner  broken,  at  the  very  moment 
of  his  departure  on  a  journey,  upon  the  fuccefs 
of  which  the  fate  of  his  empire  feemed  to  de 
pend,  was  an  accident  which  the  emperor,  who 
was  remarkably  fuperftitious,  confidered  as  a 

ing  Mnley  Yazid,  and  the  Sharif s  reafons  for  not  obeying 
it,  aje  fully  explained. 

bad 


304  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

bad  omen,  and  he  was  certain  portended  fome 
calamity  which  was  to  befal  him  on  the  road. 

In  confequence  of  thefe  apprehenfions  he  became 
remarkably  uneafy,  penfive,  and  indifpofed ;  and  it 
is  not  improbable  that  this  trifling  circumfhmce, 
united  to  a  previous  weak  frate  of  body  and 
mind,  contributed  materially  to  haften  his  death. 

From  the  time  of  his  departure  till  the  fecoad 
of  April  he  made  unufually  fhort  ftages  \  and  on 
that  day  he  ordered  letters  to  be  written  to  Muley 
Slemma  and  Alcaide  AbtJas,  in  very  ftrong  terms 
arraigning  the  conduct  of  Muley  Yazid,  and 
diredling  them  to  encamp  at  the  bottom  of  the 
mountain  on  which  the  fanftuary  was  fituated, 
and  to  block  it  up  in  fuch  a  manner,  that  the 
prince  fhould  not  find  it  poffible  to  make  his 
efcape.  Soon  after  the  Ugning  of  thefe  letters,  he 
complained  of  a  pain  in  his  head  and  Aomach,  and 
was  ieized  with  vomiting.  He  contined,  there 
fore,  for  the  fpace  of  two  days,  without  being 
able  to  proceed  on  his  journey.  On  the  5th  of 
April,  as  he  found  himfelf  unable  to  ride  on  horfe- 
back,  he  ordered  his  people  to  place  him  in  his 
litter,  and  commanded  his  own  phyflcian  to  ac 
company  him.  When  he  halted  on  his  journey, 
in.  the  evening,  he  was  vifited  by  a  large  body  of 
people,  who  came  to  pay  their  refpecls  to  him. 
For  thefe  adventitious  viiitors  the  fovereign  ordered 
a  great  feaft  to  be  prepared;  he  tailed  of  every  difh 
that  was  lent  to  them,  and  loon  after  complained 
of  a  pain  in  his  bowels. 

On  the  following  day  he  proceeded  on  his 
journey,  and  in  the  evening  the  pains  of  his  head 
and  ftomach  were  ccnfiderably  increafed,  and  were 

fbonc 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  305 

foon  after  followed  by  a  vomiting  of  blood.  He 
now  began  to  exprefs  a  fenfe  of  his  approaching 
difTolution;  and,  itisfaid,  ordered  a  letter  to  be 
written  to  Muley  Yazid,  telling  him,  that  he 
hoped  God  would  forgive  him,  and  blefs  him; 
but,  as  the  truth  of  this  circumftance  is  difputed, 
I  give  it  as  a  mere  report. 

His  uneafmefs  concerning  his  fifuation  did  not 
prevent  him  from  regularly  and  devoutly  perform 
ing  every  part  of  his  ablutions  and  prayers,  and 
fulfilling  every  ceremony  of  his  religion.  On  the 
two  fucceeding  days  the  emperor  took  very  ihort 
journies,  and,  finding  he  had  no  profpecl  of  a 
recovery,  he  defired  that  his  women  would  have 
him  carried  to  Rabat,  and  buried  in  a  vault  which 
he  had  built  in  his  palace  for  that  purpofe. 

On  the  i  ith  of  April,  upon  entering  the  town 
of  Rabat,  he  expired  in  his  carriage,  without 
fpeaking  a  fingle  word.  The  news  of  his  death 
was  not  made  public  till  the  following  day,  when 
he  was  buried  in  his  palace,  agreeably  to  his  orders, 
with  all  the  honours  ufually  paid  to  fuch  per- 
fonages. 

The  death  of  Sidi  Mahomet  was  certainly  a 
moft  fortunate  event  for  the  people  of  the  Northern 
provinces,  and  particularly  for  thofe  who  had 
manifefled  any  attachment  to  Muley  Yazid.  His 
intention,  indeed,  was  no  lefs  than  the  total  ex 
tirpation  of  all  the  inhabitants;  and  it  is  impofGble 
to  forefee  where  his  cruelties  might  have  termi 
nated.  On  the  other  hand,  it  was  not  the  intention 
of  Muley  Yazid  to  come  to  any  engagement  with 
his  father;  therefore,  as  the  emperor  approached* 

he 


306  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

he  would  have  retired,  till  he  had  got  beyond 
the  boundaries  of  his  fathers  dominions. 

Sidi  Mahomet,  when  he  died,  was  in  the  Sift 
year  of  his  age,  and  the  33d  of  his  reign.  His 
character  has  already  occupied  fo  large  a  portion 
of  thefe  pages,  that  it  would  be  entirely  fuperfluous 
to  make  any  additions. 

It  is  well  known  that,  a  few  months  previous 
to  his  death,  he  was  thoroughly  convinced  how 
greatly  he  had  fallen  a  dupe  to  Spanifh  intrigues. 
By  bribing  the  minifters,  and  obfcuring  the  mental 
eye  of  the  fovereign  by  large  and  repeated  pre- 
fents,  the  court  of  Spain  procured  leave  to  export 
great  quantities  of  corn  free  of  duty,  the  cuftoms 
of  which,  at  a  moderate  computation,  would  have 
brought  him  in  five  times  the  value  of  the  prefents 
he  received.  This  indeed  was  not  the  only  incon 
venience  which  the  country  fuffered  through  this 
imprudent  conceffion;  for  the  drought  had  been 
fo  exceilive,  the  preceding  year,  that  a  fcarcity 
of  corn  had  already  taken  place,  and  occafioned 
an  univerfal  murmur  among  the  people:  fo  that 
had  the  exportation  of  that  article  been  allowed 
a  little  time  longer,  a  general  famine,  and  con- 
fequently  an  univerfal  rebellion,  mufl  have  taken 
place.  Befides  this,  out  of  pique  to  the  Englifh, 
the  Spaniards  engaged  the  emperor  to  refufe  the 
fupplying  of  Gibraltar  with  provifions,  by  which 
another  confiderable  defalcation  was  made  in  his 
revenue.  Latterly,  however,  the  monarch  was 
fo  fenfible  of  thefe  impofitions,  that  he  raifed 
the  duties  upon  thofe  provifions  and  corn  which 
the  Spaniards  exported,  to  fo  immoderate  a  height, 

that 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  307 

that  they  were  obliged  to  fend  home  their  veflels 
empty. 

Had  he  lived  to  this  time,  it  is  a  matter  of  doubt, 
\vhether  affairs  with  Spain  would  have  ended  only 
by  increafing  the  duties;  for  he  was  ib  entirely 
irritated  by  their  conduct,  that  it  is  not  improbable 
that  a  rupture  between  the  two  courts  would  have 
been  the  confequence.  On  the  other  hand,  his 
differences  with  England,  from  the  fame  circum- 
Itances,  would  have  been  mod  probably  adjufted 
and  fettled,  perfectly  to  the  fatisfaftion  of  our 
court,  Indeed  he  had  given  directions  for  that 
purpofetwo  days  previous  to  his  death. 

I  have  already  mentioned  that  in  this  country 
the  fucceffion  to  the  empire,  though  reftrifted  to 
the  fame  family,  is  not  limited  to  any  particular 
branch,  but  depends  on  the  influence  each  of  the 
princes  may  have  in  the  country,  and  particularly 
on  the  army.  The  government  may  therefore  be 
confidered  as  partly  hereditary,  and  partly  elec 
tive*.  Wealth,  however,  is  not  the  only  means 
of  obtaining  this  influence;  for  Muley  Yazid, 
the  late  emperor,  was  the  pooreft  of  the  royal 
brothers. 

When  the  news  of  the  emperor's  death  reached 
Muley  Slemma  and  Alcaide  Abbas,  they  certainly 
fell  back  with  the  army  towards  Sallee;  but  what 
ever  they  might  have  'in  view  by  fo  doing,  they 

*  The  Mahometan  law  particularly  directs,  and  it  is 
well  binderficod  by  the  more  enlighcened  part  •,•!"  the  Moors, 
that  the  elded  fon,  is  the  next  heir  to  the  throne;  but 
owing  to  the  influence  of  the  black  army,  and  the  ignorance 
of  the  majority  of  the  people,  this  circumftance  in  the  em 
pire  of  Morocco  is  but  feldom  attended  to. 

could 


308  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &<?. 

,  could  meet  with  no  fupport.  At  Morocco,  the 
old  emperor  left  his  two  fons  Muley  Hafem  and 
Muley  OufFme  entrufted  with  thejoint  government 
of  that^city,  ordering  the  inhabitants  to  pay  to  the 
firft  prince  the  fum  of  ten  thoufand  hard  dollars, 
and  the  latter  five.  The  partiality,  however  of  the 
monarch,  fo  greatly  irritated  Muley  OufTme,  that 
lie  difcharged  a  mufquct  at  his  brother  upon  fame 
cafual  difpute,  but  miffed  him.  Muley  Haftm, 
who  at  Tangier  had  manifefled  a  want  of  refolu- 
tion,  intimidated  by  this  conduft  of  his  brother, 
retired,  (hut  himfelf  up  in  the  palace,  and  left 
Muley  Oufline  in  full  poffcffion  of  the  whole  of  the 
money. 

As  foon  as  Muley  Hafem  received  intelligence 
of  his  father's  death,  he  pnbliflied  it  to  the  people 
of  Morocco,  at  the  fame  time  prefenting  himfelf 
as  the  immediate  heir  of  the  crown.  ^He  was 
foon  after  proclaimed  by  a  few  mountaineers;, 
but  the  principal  people  of  the  city  declaring  in 
favour  of  Muiey  Yazid,  Muley  Hafem  was  obliged 
to  give  up  his  pretentious,  and  retire  to  his  late 
father's  houfe. 

Muley  OuiTme  took  the  firft  opportunity  of 
leaving  Morocco,  and  repaired  to  Muley  Abdra-" 
haman,  who  refided  among  the  Arabs  in  the 
mod  fouthern  part  of  Suz.  His  motives  for  this 
ftep  are  differently  acccounted  for.  It  is  by  fome 
attributed  to  an  apprehenfion  of  the  new  empe 
ror's  refentment,  on  account  of  the  robbery  he 
had  committed  on  Muley  Hafem  \  while  others 
allege  it  was  on  the  fcore  of  having  formerly  killed 
one  of  Muley  Yazid's  children. 

Muley 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Muley  Abdrahaman  had,  during  his  father's 
life,  amafTed  a  very  confiderable  fum  of  money, 
by  his  induftry  and  attention  to  commercial  affairs, 
and  was  at  one  time  in  great/avour  with  his  father. 
The  old  man,    however,  of  whofe  immoderate 
love  of  riches  I  have  already  had  occafion  to  fpeak, 
foon  became  jealous  of  his  fon's  wealth,  and  con- 
fequently  defirous  of  pofTeffing  it.     To  effeft  his 
purpofe  without  oppofition,  he  diffembled  his  in 
tentions  fo  far  as  to  appoint  his  fon  governor  of 
Sallee,  a  place  of  no  inconfiderable  importance  j 
and,  in  confequence  of  this  appointment,  Muley 
Abdrahaman,  having  packed  up  all  his  money  and 
valuables  on  mules,  in  the  moft:  affectionate  man 
ner  took  leave  of  his  father,  and  proceeded  on 
his  journey.     He  had  not,  however,  long  pro 
ceeded  in  peace,  before  the  emperor  fent  a  large 
detachment  of  troops  after  him,  with  orders  to 
{trip  him  of  every  article  in  his  poffeffion;  which 
they   fo  efTe6tually  accomplished,  that  they  left 
him  matter  only  of  an  old  rufty  piftol.     While  the 
prince,  naturally  irritated  by  fuch  unworthy  treat 
ment,  made  a  rafh  but  moft  folemn  vow,  that  he 
would  never  fee  his  father's  face  again;  and  he 
immediately  retired  to  the  mountains  in  Suz,  where 
he  has  continued  ever  fince. 

The  emperor  endeavoured  to  perfuade  his  fon 
to  return  to  court,  by  offering  him  large  prefents 
of  money,  and  by  the  moft  fplended  promifes; 
but  the  prince  always  anfwered,  that  he  never 
could  comply  with  his  father's  requeft,  as  he 
was  convinced  his  word  was  not  to  be  trufted. 
Upon  which  the  old  monarch  included  him  in  the 
curfehe  had  uttered  again  ft  Muley  Yazid. 

When 


310  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

When  the  emperor's  death  came  to  be  known 
in  Suz,  forty  thoufand  Arabs  immediately  tendered 
their  fpontaneous  fervices  to  afliir.  Muley  Abdraha- 
man  in  afcending  the  throne,  and  in  refitting  the 
pretentions  of  Muley  Yazid  j  and  it  was  general 
ly  expefted  that  he  would  have  made  the  attempt, 
as  the  following  letter  was  received  from  him  by 
the  new  emperor  while  he  refided  at  Fez.  I  infert 
it  as  a  fpecimen  of  Moorifh  compofition,  and  of 
Moorifli  politenefs. 

"  I  have  heard  of  my  father's  death,  and  that 
"  you  have  left  the  fanftuary,  and  call  yourfelf 
"  emperor. — Go  to  your  hole,  you  rat,  or  meet 
"  me  at  Morocco  j  where  I  will  convince  you,  that 
"  Fez  is  not  a  place  for  an  emperor." 

Though  this  was  the  only  prince,  in  whofe 
power  it  was  to  make  any  ferious  oppofition  to 
Muley  Yazid;  yet  hefmce  gave  up  that  intention, 
wrote  a  letter  of  congratulation  and  fubmiilion  to 
his  brother,  and  made  an  offer  of  his  fervices. 
Thus  amidft  fo  many  difficulties,  and  with  fo 
many  competitors,  all  of  them  confidering  them- 
felves  as  equally  entitled  to  the  fucceffion,  was 
Muley  Yazid  feated  on  the  throne  without  the 
Iheddingof  a  drop  of  blood,  andalmoft  as  peace 
ably  as  in  the  beft-regulated  ftate  in  Europe. 

If  we  look  back  on  the  changes  of  mafters 
which  this  empire  had  previouily  experienced,  1 
believe  we  ftiall  fcarcely  find  an  inftance  where 
affairs  have  been  fettled  fo  fuccefsfuily  and  happily 
as  on  this  occafion.  The  only  difturbances  that 
took  place  after  the  old  emperor's  death,  were  ibme 
predatory  incurfions  of  the  Arabs  into  the  fourthern 
provinces,  who,  under  a  pretence  of  fupporting 

Muley 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C.  3!  I 

Muley  Hafem,  plundered  Morocco,  and  obliged 
the  Chriftians  and  Jews  to  take  fhelter  in  the 
caftle.  Mogodore  was  faved  by  being  fo  well 
fortified,  and  by  the  great  exertions  of  the  governor 
and  inhabitants.  The  country,  however,  adjacent 
to  thofe  places,  even  as  far  as  Sallee,  was  in  fuch 
a  ftate  of  confufion  that  travelling  became  totally 
impracticable  for  a  confiderable  time. 

The  town  of  Dar  Beyda,  which  is  garfifoned 
by  about  an  hundred  and  fifty  Negroes,  who  on 
feveral  occafions  had  made  themfelves  difagreeable 
to  the  furrounding  Arabs,  nearly  lliared  the  fame 
fate  as  Morocco.  As  ibon  as  the  emperor's  death 
was  made  known  there,  the  Arabs  bought  up  all 
the  powder  and  ball  that  was  in  the  town,  before 
the  inhabitants  were  aware  of  their  intentions.  For 
balls,  which  were  ufually  fold  at  the  price  of  eight 
or  nine  for  a  blanquil,  the  Arabs  now  conferred 
to  purchafe  at  the  rate  of  two  blanquils  each,  and 
at  laft  they  completely  ftripped  the  town  of  all  its 
fmall  ammunition.  Having  effected  this  firft  ftep, 
they  aflembled  in  great  numbers  in  the  neigh 
bourhood  of  the  town,  armed  with  mufqnets. 

The 'governor,  alarmed  at^the  appearance  of  fb 
confiderable  a  body  of  Arabs,  went  out  with  fifty 
fbldiers,  and  demanded  of  them  their  intentions  in 
thus  turnultuoufiy  aflembling  together.  They  re 
plied,  that  as  the  country  and  town  people  were 
both  equally  fubjefts  of  the  empire,  it  became  necef- 
fary  that  deputations  from  each  party  ihould  meet 
in  the  town,  to  determine  upon  the  perfon  proper 
to  be  eledled  their  fovereign. 

In  return,  the  governor  anfwered,  that  he  had 
no  objection  whatever  to  a  few  of  their  principal 

people 


312  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

people  coming  into  the  town,  for  the  purpofe 
they  mentioned;  but  that  he  could  not  fee  any 
reafon  who  fo  many  perfons  fhould  on  fuch  an 
occafion  be  collefted  together,  and  prefent  them- 
felve  in  a  hofHle  ftate  againfl  a  city  of  the  empire. 
To  this  obfervation  the  Arabs  did  not  condefcend 
to  reply,  but  infilled  upon  being  admitted  into 
the  town;  and  were  as  obftinately  refufed.  After 
fome  parlying,  however,  they  promifed  to  difperfe, 
if  the  governor  would  pay  them  two  thouland 
dollars.  This  he  refufed,  obferving,  that  in  making 
this  demand  they  were  treating  the  inhabitants  of 
the  town  like  Jews;  and  that  they  mufl  difperfe, 
or  take  the  confequence.  A  reply  of  this  nature 
was  calculated  to  enrage  inflead  of  conciliating 
the  Arabs,  and  they  began  to  fet  the  huts  on  fire, 
and  at  the  feme  time  continued  to  advance  towards 
the  town. 

Their  force  at  this  period  was  increafing  almofl 
every  moment,  by  numbers  who  came  down  from 
the  mountains;  and  the  governor,  apprehending 
immediate  danger  to  the  town,  privately  difpatched 
a  meflenger  to  the  inhabitants,  cautioning  them  to 
be  on  their  guard  againft  the  Arabs,  and  at  the 
lame  time  announcing  that  he  had  no  opportunity 
of  retiring  himfelf. 

As  the  town  had  been  previoufly  cleared  of  its 
flints,  powder,  and  ball,  it  is  impoffible  to  de- 
fcribe  the  confirmation  of  the  people.  To  add  to 
their  diftrefs,  fome  fmall  velTels,  which  had  am 
munition  on  board,  had  the  day  before  before  been 
unfortunately  driven,  by  bad  weather,  out  of  the 
bay,  and  the  town  appeared  deflitute  of  every  re- 
fource.  The  .Spaniih  houfe,  however,  which  was 
2  fettled 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  313 

fettled  at  Dar  Bey  da,  and  had  very  confiderable 
property  in  the  place,  advifed  the  inhabitants  to 
clofe  the  gates  immediately,  and  to  mount  on  the 
\vall  fronting  the  enemy  an  old  twelve  pounder, 
which  was  without  a  carnage,  and  was  the  only 
piece  of  ordnance  in  the  place.  At  the  fame  time 
they  offered  three  dollars  to  every  man,  who 
would  affift  in  defending  the  ramparts.  Having 
mounted  the  gun  on  the  wall,  they  were  flill  at  a 
lofs  for  one  of  the  moil  material  articles,  viz.  pow 
der*,  there  was  fomein  the  magazine,  but  the  gover 
nor  was  on  the  outfide,  and  had  the  key  in  his  cuf- 
tody.  The  Spaniards  advifed  them  by  all  means, 
upon  fuch  a  preffing  emergency,  to  break  open 
the  door  of  the  magazine,  which  they  immediately 
did,  and  with  powder  only  fired  off  their  piece  of 
cannon  among  the  Arabs. 

An  attack  ib  unexpected  upon  the  Arabs,  who 
had  flattered  themfelves  that  there  was  neithe1:  a 
gun  or  powder  in  the  place,  put  them  for  fome 
time  into  the  utmoft  conflernation,  and  they  be 
gan  to  difperfe.  But  upon  finding  that  no  perfon 
was  wounded,  they  foon  affembied  again,  with 
a  full  determ  nation  to  attack  the  town.  The 
Spaniards  now  advifed  the  people  to  load  the 
piece  with  a  ball,  which  they  by  accident  found, 
and  fire  it  direftly  among  them.  This  manoeuvre 
was  attended  with  the  mod  brilliant  fucceis.  The 
Arabs  immediately  difperfed,  and  gave  the  gover 
nor  time  to  re-enter  the  town  with  his  troops; 
and  at  length,  being  fenfible  that  they  could  efieci: 
nothing  by  a  regular  attack,  they  next  attempted 
:kethe  place  by  fhMtsgerm  For  this  purpofe, 
they  divided  then,- Uves  into  two  parties;  one  was 
P  potted 


314  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

polled  on  the  right  fide  of  the  town,  and  the  other 
on  the  left.  The  party  on  the  right  fide  fent  in 
a  deputation  to  the  governor,  informing  him  that 
they  were  friends,  and  requeuing  that  they  might 
be  let  into  the  town,  to  alTift  him  in  conquering 
thofe  on  the  left,  who  were  enemies,  from  whom 
they  had  deferted.  This  propofal,  however,  was 
obftinately  refuled  on  the  part  of  the  governor, 
who  defired  them  to  keep  at  a  diftance,  or  take 
the  confequence;  upon  this  the  two  parties  again 
united,  and  endeavoured  to  furprife  the  town  on 
the  water  fide. 

The  veflels,  which  had  been  driven  out  the 
day  before,  returning  about  this  time,  powder, 
balls,  and  a  few  fmall  pieces  of  cannon  were  taken 
out  of  them;  and  when  the  Arabs  made  their 
laft  attack,  by  night,  the  town  took  the  alarm, 
fired  on  them,  and  obliged  them  to  retire.  The 
following  day  the  pieces  of  cannon  were  mounted 
in  different  parts  on  the  walls  of  the  town,  which 
had  the  defired  effect;  for  the  Arabs,  finding  they 
had  no  chance  of  fuccefs,  difperfed  totally,  and 
went  to  thtir  different  homes.  For  fome  time  after 
this  circumftance,  not  one  of  them  was  permitted 
to  enter  the  town,  but  upon  condition  that  he 
iliould  firft  leave  his  mufquet  and  fword  on  the 
outfide  of  the  gate. 

The  Spanifh  houfe,  during  this  petty  fiege, 
fnpplied  the  late  emperor's  women,  who  happened 
to  be  in  the  town,  on  this  occafion,  with  money 
and  other  necefliiries,  and  out  of  their  own  {lores 
furnifhed  corn  to  the  inhabitants.  The  new 
fovereign  was  fo  pleafed  with  the  conduct  of  the 
Spaniards,  that  he  fent  them  a  letter  of  thanks, 

as 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  315 

as  well  for  their  zeal  in  defending  the  town,  as 
for  the  fupport  they  afforded  to  his  father's  women. 
Not  fatisfied,  however,  with  the  barren  return  of 
thanks,  he  ordered  them  alfo  to  be  repaid  the  whole 
of  their  expences,  and  fent  them  a  prefent  of  two 
lions. 

Thefe  were  the  principal  diflurbances  which 
took  place,  in  confequence  of  the  emperor's 
death*  By  degrees  the  fpirit  for  plunder,  on  the 
part  of  the  Arabs,  was  Ida  general,  and  the 
country  became  in  a  $&te  of  perfeft  peace  and 
tranquility. 

The  news  of  the  emperor's  death  reached  Tan 
gier  on  the  1 5th  of  April  j  upon  which  the  gover 
nor  repaired  to  the  great  mofque,  made  a  (hovt 
prayer  for  Sidi  Mahomet,  and  proclaimed  Mulcy 
Yazid  his  fucceflbr*  After  this  ceremony,  the 
public  crier  was  placed  in  a  confpicuous  fitnation, 
where  he  publicly  proclaimed  Muley  Yazid*,  in 
his  name  denouncing  thefevereft  pnnilhment  againft 
any  perfon,  who  fhould  dare  to  oppofe  the  new 
fovereign. 

As  Muley  Ya^id  had  been  proclaimed  both  iu 
the  church  and  in  the  town,  the  confuls  all  agreed 
to  write  him  a  letter,  condoling  with  him  on  his 
father's  deceafe,  and  congratulating  him  upon  his 
acceffion  to  the  throne.  I  fhould  have  obferved, 
that  the  only  ceremony  attending  a  new  emperor's 
acceffion  to  the  throne,  is  a  public  proclamation 
in  the  ftreets  and  mofques.  When  the  proclama 
tion  takes  place  in  the  prefence  of  the  emperor, 
which  by  the  law  ought  to  be  performed  publicly, 
at  leaft  in  the  three  capitals  of  the  empire,  it  is 
cuftomary  for  all  the  chief  priefts  and  dodlors  of 
P  2  law 


316  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C- 

law  to  afTemble,  v/ith  the  other  great  people  of 
the  town,  and  for  the  Mufti  or  Cadi  to  read 
aloud  to  the  emperor,  a  iliort  recapitulation  of 
ibme  of  the  laws  of  the  Koran;  which  direcl, 
that  he  (hall  preferve  the  empire,  adminifter  fpeedy 
juftice,  protect  the  innocent,  deftroy  the  wicked, 
and  io  far  from  countenancing  and  keeping  near 
his  facred  peribn  any  adulterer,  that  he  fhall  punifli 
adultery,  prevent  the  exportation  of  corn  and  pro- 
vifions  to  the  prejudice  of  the  people,  tax  provifions 
according  to  their  plenty  or  fcarcity,  and  forbid 
uiury  to  be  exercifed  towards  the  poor,  which 
is  an  abomination  before  God.  He  is  told,  that 
if  he  breaks  thefe  articles,  he  fliall  be  punifhed, 
as  he  ought  to  punifh  others  under  a  limilar  cir- 
cumftance. 

The  lame  ceremony  is  performed  before  all 
Bafhaws,  Alcaides,  and  Shaiks,  upon  their  firil 
receiving  their  appointment.  How  far  thefe  few 
but  excellent  admonitions  are  attended  to,  either 
by  the  emperor  or  the  officers  under  his  command, 
I  have  already  fufficiently  explained  in  a  former 
part  of  the  narrative. 

On  the  fu acceding  day,  which  was  the  Moorifh 
iabbath,  all  the  great  people  of  the  town  alTembled 
;.;t  the  mofques,  and,  with  greater  ceremony  than 
the  day  before;  prayed  for  the  foul  of  the  deceafed 
sovereign,  and  proclaimed  Muley  Yazid  his  fuc- 
ceflbr.  On  the  lame  day  all  the  JewefTes  of  Tan 
gier  were  ordered  by  the  governor  to  repair  to 
rhe  caftle,  and  lament  Sidi  Mahomet's  death; 
•which  they  performed  by  loud  ihrieks  and  la- 
•ations. 

On 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  317 

Oil  the  1 7th,  the  bafhaw  communicated  to  the 
confuls  a  letter,  which  he  had  received  from 
Muley  Yazid  at  the  fanftuary,  wherein  he  ordered 
the  bafaaw  to  conduct  all  the  confuls  to  him  with, 
their  prefents,  under  a  guard  of  fifteen  foldiers. 
On  the  fame  day  a  falute  of  twenty-one  guns  was 
fired  from  the  battery,  in  confequence  of  an  order 
having  arrived  for  a  general  releafe  and  pardon  to 
all  prifoners. 

Seven  poor  (harifs  or  petty  princes,  who  brought 
this  order,  delivered  at  the  fame  time  directions  to 
the  confuls  to  clothe  them  from  head  to  foot  at 
their  own  expence.  In  confequence  of  this,  the 
confuls  f  urnifhed  each  of  them  with  cloth  for  a 
caftan,  with  two  britannias,  and  twenty  dollars; 
to  this,  as  it  was  not  fufficient  to  fatisfy  them,  they 
weie  obliged  to  add  a  flill  ^further  fupply  of  money. 
On  the  following  day  the  confuls  fet  off  on  their 
journey  with  the  bafliaw,  and  the  principal  people 
of  the  town  both,  Moors  and  Jews.  In  the  even 
ing,  Reis  Mufti  Galli,  with  two  other  fea  cap 
tains,  arrived  at  the  confuPs  camp  with  a  letter 
from  the  new  emperor,  inviting  them  to  repair  to 
him  at  Tetuan,  and  promifing  to  renew  the  ancient 
treaties  of  peace  and  commerce  with  their  nations. 
The  captains  related,  that  Muley  Yazid  had  left 
the  fanftuary,  and  had  made  his  public  entrance 
into  Tetuan  the  day  before. 

On  the  i  pth  of  April  the  confuls  arrived  in  the 
evening  at  Tetuan,  where  upon  entering  the  gates, 
they  were  met  by  a  meflenger,  who  informed  them 
that  the  emperor  would  give  them  audience  im 
mediately,  whilft  upon  their  horfes;  upon  which 
their  baggage  was  all  fent  away,  and  the  confab' 
P  3  ail: 


318  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,    &C. 

all  ranged  themfelves  in  a  regular  form.  After 
waiting,  however,  a  (hort  time,  another  mefTenger 
came  to  acquaint  them,  that  the  emperor  would 
fee  them  the  next  day.  On  the  following  day, 
at  twelve  o'clock  at  noon,  the  confuls  were  fent 
for  to  the  emperor's  camp,  where  they  found 
the  fovereign  on  horfeback,  in  a  very  rich  Turkifh 
drefs,  and  his  horfe  ornamented  with  Turkifh 
furniture. 

After  having  afked  their  refpeftive  names  and 
titles,  the  emperor  told  the  confuls  he  was  at  peace 
with  theEnglifh  and  Ragoufi,  but  at  war  with  all 
the  other  nations ;  whofe  confuls  he  allowed  only 
four  months  to  retire  from  his  dominions  with 
their  property,  and  ordered  them  to  fend  him 
back  every  thing  which  belonged  to  his  fubjedts. 
On  the  22d  of  April,  the  confuls  had  their  fecond 
nudience,  at  which  each  of  them  brought  their 
leparate  preients. 

The  emperor  now  told  them,  he  would  remain 
at  peace  with  all  their  nations  on  the  fame  footing 
as  before,  requiring  of  the  Spaniards  only  an 
ambaflador  within  four  months.  At  this  audience 
he  promifed  the  confuls  letters  to  their  refpeftive 
courts,  expreiUve  of  the  fame  fentiments;  and 
affured  them  that  the  bafhaw  at  Tangier  fhould 
make  them  out,  in  terms  moil  agreeable  to  the 
confuls.  The  fucceding  day  the  confuls  received 
orders  to  retuin  to  Tangier,  at  which  place  the 
emperor  was  to  deliver  to  them  the  papers  he  had 
promifed. 

On  the  25th  of  the  fame  month,  the  emperor 
arrived  at  Tangier,  and  the  day  following  was 
waited  upon  by  all  the  confuls,  to  congratulate 

him 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C.  JI^ 

him  on  his  fafe  arrival.  The  emperor  continued  at 
Tangier  till  the  2pth,  during  which  time  he  gave 
private  audiences  tothofe  confuls  whoafked  them. 
He  was  every  day  fully  employed  by  people  who 
came  from  the  difFerent  provinces  to  pay  their 
homage  to  him.  Thefe  were  fuppofed  to  amount 
to  no  lefs  than  twenty  thoufand.  The  bafhaw  of 
Tangier,  who  had  the  commiffion  to  write  out  the 
letters  which  the  confuls  were  to  fend  home  to 
their  refpeftive  courts,  behaved  in  the  mofl  arbi 
trary  and  infolent  manner  towards  thofe  gentlemen. 
He  demanded  of  fome  no  lefs  than  two  thoufand, 
of  others  fifteen  hundred  dollars,  for  the  trouble 
he  had  taken,  by  interfering  in  their  favour  with 
the  new  fovereign;  at  the  fame  time  pofitively  re- 
fufing  to  make  out  or  deliver  the  letters  till  they 
had  either  paid  the  fum  he  exacted,  or  given  him 
fecurity  for  it. 

After  the  confuls  had  endeavoured  to  fatisfy 
the  bafhaw  in  the  befl  manner  they  were  able,  they 
at  lafl  did  not  receive  the  letters  till  the  day  after 
the  emperor's  departure  from  Tangier,  when  they 
were  brought  to  them  by  the  bafhaw's  fecretary, 
and  another  of  his  attendants,  who  not  only  de 
manded  a  prefent  for  themfelves,  but  alfo  obliged 
them  to  pay  an  exorbitant  price  for  the  feal  on 
each  paper,  which  the  bafhaw  pretended  he  had 
paid  to  the  keeper  of  the  feals. 

The  emperor  arrived  on  the  icth  of  May  at 
Mequinez,  whence,  after  fome  little  flay,  he  went 
to  Fez,  and  there  kept  the  feaftof  the  Ramadam. 
About  this  period,  in  confequence  of  the  emperor's 
not  having  appeared  in  public  for  feveral  days,  a 
falfe  report  was  circulated,  that  he  had  been  ki lied 

by 


320  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

by  his  brother  Muley  HafTem,  who  had  juft  be 
fore  arrived  at  Fez  from  Morocco. 

Having  conducted  the  emperor  to  Mequinez,  it 
•will  be  only  necefTary  to  take  a  fhort  general  view 
of  his  fubfequent  conduft,  during  the  (hort  time 
that  elapfed  between  his  acceffion  to  the  throne, 
and  arrival  at  that  city;  and  thence  go  on  to  thofc 
circumflances  whi^h  led  to  the  caufe  of  "his  death. 
After  the  caprice,  pufillanimity,  and  avarice  which 
had  diflinguiihed  the  reign  of  his  predeceflbr, 
Muley  Yazid  appeared  to  pofTefs  many  qualities 
well  calculated  to  render  him  a  very  popular 
prince  in  the  eyes  of  the  Moors.  To  a  tall,  ele 
gant,  and  majeftic  perfon,  were  united  a  handfome 
and  expreflive  countenance,  which,  with  a  fpecious 
and  perfuafive  addrefs,  a  generous  and  difmterefted 
but  determined  conduft,  a  great  a6livity  of  body, 
and  an  uncommon  agility  in  horfemanfhip,  were 
re-quifites  which  were  certain  of  imprefTing  on  the 
minds  of  his  fubjedls  a  very  favourable  opinion  of 
their  new  fovereign;  and  it  is  certain  that  Muley 
Yazid  fucceeded  to  the  throne  by  the  voluntary 
choice  of  the  majority  of  the  people.  Happy  it 
had  been,  if  he  had  pofTefTed  fufricient  virtue  or 
policy  to  have  preferved  this  good  opinion  which 
they  had  formed  •,  but  his  ungovernable  propenfity 
to  cruelty  and  drunkennefs,  which  he  had  art 
fully  concealed  in  his  minority,  he  had  not  refolu- 
tion  fufricient  to  command  when  he  fucceeded 
to  the  throne;  and  in  the  whole  hiftory  of  Mo 
rocco,  we  do  not  meet  with  a  tyrant  who  exer- 
cifed  greater  barbarities  than  this  moafter  was 
guilty  of.. 

His 


I 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  321 

His  fir  ft  ftep  after  leaving  the  fanftuary,  was 
to  repair  to  Tetuan,  where  he  immediately  ordered 
a  general  plunder  of  the  Jews  to  be  put  in  execu 
tion  by  his  black  troops,  in  confequence  of  an  in- 
iult  he  had  received  from  that  people  upon  a  for 
mer  occafion.  In  purfuance  of  this  edift,  their 
houfes  v/ere  inftantly  ranfacked,  the  furniture 
which  could  not  be  carried  off,  was  deftroyed  and 
thrown  into  the  ftreets,  fome  of  the  owners  were 
put  to  death,  and  others  were  feverely  beaten  •> 
and  the  perfons  of  the  wives  and  daughters  violated 
by  the  outrageous  fbldiery,  who  indifcriminately 
ftrippcd  them  even  of  their  clothes,  and  turned 
them  naked  into  the  ftreets.  It  is  not  po/Iible  to 
paint  in  juft  colours,  the  diftrefs  and  hardfhip 
that  unfortunate  race  experienced  for  feveral  days, 
till  a  conclufion  was  put  to  their  perfections  by 
an  order  from  the  emperor,  who,  in  confequence 
of  a  pardon  to  the  Jews,  threatened  death  to  every 
perfon  who  ftiould  in  any  degree  further  moleft 
them. 

There  were  two  perfons  of  this  nation,  of  fome 
confequence,  whom  Muley  Yazid  marked  out  as 
particular  objects  of  his  revenge.  The  firft  was  a 
Jew,  who,  iu  the  charafter  of  Spanifh  vice  conful, 
had  committed  fome  aft  during  the  reign  of  Sidi 
Mahomet,  which  the  new  emperor  confidered  as 
having  been  inimical  to  his  interefts.  For  this  real 
or  imaginary  crime,  the  culprit  was  fufpended  by 
a  cord  patted  through  the  tendons  of  the  lower 
part  of  the  legs,  with  his  head  downwards;  in 
which  fituation,  without  any  fuftenance,  he  Con 
tinued  alive  for  near  four  days,  when  the  emperor 
ordered  his  head  to  be  taken  off,  by  way  of  re 
lieving 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

lieving  him  from  his  mifery.  The  other  perfon 
was  Jacob  Attal,  who  in  a  former  part  of  the  work 
has  already  been  noticed  as  the  favourite  of  Sidi 
Mahornet  There  is  great  reafon  to  believe  that 
this  young  man,  who  poiTefled  confiderable  abili 
ties,  was  acceflary  to  his  own  unhappy  fate,  by 
his  too  bufy  interference  in  politics,  which  occafion- 
ed  him  many  enemies  at  court,  who  were  now  glad 
of  feizing  the  oportunity  of  gratifying  their  re 
venge,  by  perfuading  the  emperor  that  he  was 
one  of  thofe  who,  in  the  court  of  Sidi  Mahomet, 
had  been  particularly  inimical  to  him.  Attal  con- 
fcious  of  his  danger,  put  himfelf  under  the  pro- 
teftion  of  the  Englifh  conful,  with  an  intention  of 
accompanying  that  gentleman  toTetnan,  in  hopes 
that  a  confiderable  prefent  of  money,  might  in 
duce  the  emperor  to  treat  him  with  fome  lenity. 
Unfortunately,  before  this  plan  could  be  put  in 
execution,  an  order  for  feizing  Attal  met  the  party 
on  the  road,  upon  which  the  unfortunate  Jew  v/as 
forced  off  his  mule,  (tripped  of  his  drefs,  and  in 
an  old  Moorifli  frock,  and  with  a  cord  about  his 
neck,  was  driven  on  foot  with  whips  to  Tetuan. 
Upon  his  arrival,  he  was  immediately  conduced 
to  the  emperor,  who  ordered  both  his  hands  to 
be  cut  off,  in  which  ftate  he  continued  three 
days  in  the  greateft  mifery,  and  then  he  was  de 
capitated. 

Thefe  are  by  no  means  the  only  inftances  of 
cruelty  that  were  exercifed  upon  the  Jews.  Thole 
of  moft  of  the  towns  of  the  empire,  were  either 
plundered  or  obliged  to  pay  the  emperor  a  very 
heavy  fine;  and  at  Mequinez,  and  fome  other 
peaces,  feveral  were  put  to  cruel  deaths^  and 

their 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  32  j 

their  wives  and  daughter  left  to  the  mercy  of  the 
black  troops,  who  treated  them  with  thf^greateft 
indecencies. 

A  third  objeft  of  the  emperor's  perfonal  revenge 
was  Alcaide  Abbas,  his  father's  black  general: 
with  refpe6t  to  this  officer,  the  emperor  had  two 
motives  for  punifhing  him.  In  the  firfl  place,  he 
v/as  the  commander  of  that  very  army  which  was 
intended  for  his  own  definition;  and,  in  the 
fecond,  upon  his  father's  deceafe,  inftead  of  fur- 
rendering  the  army  to  Muley  Yazid,  he  with 
drew  it  to  the  Southward,  and,  it  was  fuppofed 
with  an  intention  of  fupporting  Muley  Slemma. 

Notwithftanding,  however,  this  conduft  on  the 
part  of  Abbas,  the  emperor  certainly  would  not 
have  put  him  to  death,  had  it  not  been  at  the  par 
ticular  requeft  of  his  black  army,  whom  at  that 
time  he  did  not  wi(h  to  offend.  Abbas,  fully  con- 
icious  how  much  he  was  difliked  by  his  troops, 
attempted  to  make  his  efcape  to  a  fanftuary  upon 
a  very  fwift  horfe;  but  his  horfe  falling  he  was 
unluckily  feized,  and  immediately  carried  before 
the  emperor,  with  very  heavy  charges  on  the  part 
of  his  ibldiers.  After  a  hearing  of  the  charges, 
the  emperor  fignified  to  the  culprit  that  he  might 
yet  partake  of  his  royal  mercy,  provided  he  would 
confine  himfelf  for  two  months  to  the  fanftuary  of 
Muley  Abfulem.  For  this  purpofe  he  fet  off;  but 
he  was  again  feized  by  the  foldiers,  who  brought 
him  back  to  the  emperor  with  flili  heavier  charges ; 
and  the  emperor,  finding  that  the  foliers  were 
determined  on  his  deflru&ion,  with  his  own  hands, 
by  one  blow  of  his  fabre,  divided  his  head  in  two, 
and  he  immediately  expired. 

Abbas 


324  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Abbas  was  the  beft  officer  in  the  emperor's 
Service,  ;#nd  never  manifefted  the  flightefl:  token  of 
timidity,  or  condefcended  to  afk  his  life;  on  the 
contrary,  when  the  emperor  lifted  up  his  iabre, 
he  in  a  flern  and  undaunted  manner  looked  his 
fovereign  in  the  face,  and  died  with  the  countenance 
and  the  tranquility  of  a  hero.  As  his  body  had 
not  received  the  emperor's  pardon,  it  remained  on 
the  ground  unburied,  to  the  great  nuifance  of  every 
perfon  who  pafTed  that  way.  For  fiich  is  the  bar 
barous  cuflcm  of  the  country,  that  when  a  man  is 
put  to  death  by  the  emperor,  or  his  order,  his  body 
cannot  be  buried  without  its  firft  receiving  a  for 
mal  pardon  from  the  emperor. 

Muley  Yazid,  long  before  his  father's  death, 
had  threatened  the  life  of  the  EfFendi.  He  had 
been  a  principal  agent  in  exciting  the  father's 
hatred  and  prejudice  againft  his  fon.  A  further 
caufe  of  the  emperor's  refentment,  was  the  great 
im portion  praftifed  on  his  father  by  the  Effendi 
refpe'&ing  the  corn  bufmefs  with  the  Spaniards,  by 
which  he  had  amafied  a  very  confiderable  fum  of 
money  in  bribes  and  prcfents. 

Upon  the  emperor's  death,  the  Effendi  took 
refuge  in  a  fanftuary,  and,  had  he  been  wife,  he 
would  not  have  ventured  abroad  j  but  Muley  Yazid 
having  pofitively  promifedto  pardon  him,  he  was 
induced  to  forfake  his  afylum.  For  ibrne  time  the 
new  fovereign  diflembled  his  intentions,  and  waited 
for  a  favourable  oportunity  to  feize  him.  As  foon 
as  he  was  taken,  he  offered  the  emperor  two 
hundred  thoufand  dollars  to  fpare  his  life;  but  the 
monarch  haughtily  replied,  that  he  wanted  not 
his  money,  and  that  he  would  not  condefcend  to 
2  accept 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  325 

accept  a  bribe  from  a  traitor.  He  then  ordered 
his  two  hands  to  be  cut  off,  in  whicHjfete  he  fuf- 
fered  him  to  remain  for  fome  days,  and  then 
commanded  him  to  be  beheaded.  One  of  his 
Hands  was  placed  on  the  walls  of  Fez,  and  the 
other  fent  down  to  Tangier,  and  ordered  to  be 
nailed  on  the  door  of  the  Spanifh  conful,  to  con 
vince  that  nation  in  what  manner  the  emperor 
was  difpofed  to  treat  all  the  friends  of  the 
Spaniards. 

The  emperor  always,  indeed,  manifested  an 
exclufive  preference  to  the  Englifn  beyond  all 
European  nations,  and  on  many  other  occafion?, 
evinced  an  inveterate  diilike  to  the  Spaniards. 
From  the  moment  of  his  acceflion  to  the  throne, 
he  exprefled  a  difapprobation  of  the  Spanifh  mea- 
fures,  during  his  father's  reign;  and  threatened 
to  revenge  himfelf  very  fhortly  on  that  country, 
The  Spaniards,  who  have  more  reafon  to  wifh 
for  peace,  from  their  ports  being  fo  contiguous 
to  the  emperor's,  as  well  as  from  the  immenfe  fup- 
plies  which  they  procure  from  his  dominions,  than 
any  other  nation,  endeavoured  to  ward  off  the 
threatening  ftorm,  by  very  large  and  repeated 
prefents  of  money,  and  other  valuable  articles,  to 
the  emperor  and  his  minifters.  But  this  plan, 
which  had  been  fo  fuccefsful  in  the  former  reign, 
effected  nothing  in  the  prefent.  Muley  Yazid  had, 
from  his  youth,  been  difregardful  of  money;  and, 
indeed,  in  his  contempt  of  wealth,  had  evtn  ex-^ 
ceeded  the  boundaries  of  prudence;  he  had  a  lib 
conceived  a  very  ftrong  and  very  early  predilection 
in  favour  of  the  Engliih.  Notwithstanding  thtib 
circ  urn  fiances,  the  Spaniards  fiill  continued  to  en- 
Q^  terrain. 


926  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,   &C. 

tertain  hopes  of  fuccefs  in  their  negociations,  till 
they  hearcjjpf  the  death  of  the  Effendi,  their  great 
friend  andpatron,  and  of  the  infult  offered  to  their 
court,  by  the  Effendi's  hand  being  nailed  on  their 
confui's  door.  Such  an  affront  was  fufficient  to 
convince  them,  that  war  was  inevitable:  but  they 
cfleemed  it  moft  prudent  to  get  their  conful,  and 
friars,  out  of  the  country,  before  they  commenced 
hofHlities,  and  a  frigate  for  this  purpofe  was  dif- 
patched  to  Tangier.  When  they  arrived  there, 
they  informed  the  governor,  that  they  had  on 
board  a  very  valuable  preient  for  the  emperor, 
and  defired  that  he  would  fend  proper  perfons  to 
receive  it.  The  conful  and  friars  took  this  op 
portunity  of  coming  on  board;  and  the  frigate, 
having  fent  off  the  Moors  with  the  prefent,  fet 
fail,  and  the  next  day  captured  two  Moorifh  gallies 
off  Larache,  in  fight  of  the  emperor,  who  was 
walking  upon  his  terrace  at  the  very  moment.  The 
valuable  prefent  which  they  carried, proved  nothing 
more  than  huge  bales  of  rags. 

Thefe  repeated  iniults  were  not  calculated  to 
conciliate  the  emperor;  he  confequently  made  im 
mediate  preparations  for  the  attack  on  ~euta,  and 
foon  after  befieged  it.  But  this  garrifon  proved 
too  ftrongly  fortified,  both  by  nature  and  art, 
to  render  it  poffible  for  the  Moors  to  be  fuccefs ful, 
unlefs  aflifted  by  a  naval  power,  and  the  emperor, 
after  a  fruitlefs  fiege  for  fever al  months  with  a 
very  confiderable  army,  was  obliged  to  retire. 
The  iniults  offered  by  the  Spaniards  in  the  decep 
tion  they  employed  to  procure  the  releafe  of  their 
conful  and  friars,  and  afterwads-  in  the  capture  of 
the  two  Moorifh  veffels,  made  fuch  an  impreffion 
I 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C»  327 

o'n  the  emperor,  that  he  threatened  to  put  the 
town  of  Tangier  to  the  fword,  for  f^/flagrant  a 
piece  of  negledr.  In  their  j  unification,  the  peo 
ple  informed  their  fovereign,  that  the  error  muff 
be  imputed  to  the  governor,  who  alone  was  re- 
fponfible  for  every  circumftance  which  happened 
within  his  diftrift.  This  officer,  who  at  the  rifle  of 
his  life  had  fupported  Muley  Yazid  in  his  minority 
•with  money,  and  afterwards  placed  him  on  the 
throne,  for  which  the  emperor  took  a  folemn 
oath  that  he  would  never  do  him  or  his  family  the 
imalleft  injury,  was  now  thrown  into  irons,  and 
immediately  ordered  into  the  royal  prefence.  The 
unfortunate  man,  forefeeing  his  fate,  requeued 
the  emperor  would  do  juflice  to  God  and  Ma 
homet  j  to  which  he  replied,  "  I  mean  to  do  juftice 
to  my  country  by  punishing  a  traitor ;"  and  he  im 
mediately  dilpatched  him  with  a  mufquet. 

The  numberlefs  cruelties  which  were  perpetrated 
by  Muley  Yazid,  I  have  not  fufficient  authentic 
information  to  authorife  me  to  detail,  nor  am  I 
fufficiently  informed  of  the  a6luai  circumfiances 
of  his  reign,  to  be  able  to  offer  to  the  public 
a  perfeft  narrative  of  it.  Thus  far  I  can  ven 
ture  to  affert  with  truth,  that  he  in  a  fhort 
time  devoted  himfelf  entirely  to  the  drinking  of 
ftrong  liquors,  which  for  the  greateft  part  of  the 
day  rendered  him  unfit  for  bufinefs,  and  excited 
him  to  the  molt  favage  cruelties;  and,  what  was 
mod  diftreffing,  where  they  were  the  leaft  delerved; 
with  ibme  he  amufed  himfelf  by  galloping  up  with 
great  violence  and  fpearing  them,  others  were 
buried  aiive,  while  a  third  party  were  cut  to  pieces 
with  fwords. 

2  it 


A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

It  is  almoft  unnecefiary  to  add,  that  the  neglecl 
of  public  btifmefs,  and  the  total  infecurity  of  their 
perfons  from  the  tyranny  of  the  monarch,  de- 
It  royed  in  time  intirely  the  confidence  which  the 
people  had  at  firft  placed  in  their  fovereign,  and 
encouraged  Muley  Hafem,  towards  the  latter  part 
of  the  year  1791,  to  put  himfelf  at  the  head  of 
an  army  in  oppofition  to  his  brother.  This  prince, 
who  poflefFed  mod:  of  the  bad,  without  any  of  the 
good  qualities  of  the  emperor,  and  who  com 
manded  againft  him  during  the  life  of  Sidi  Ma 
homet,  was  further  induced  to  this  meafure  in 
confequence  of  a  fupply  of  ftores,  and  confider* 
able  fums  of  money,  which  he  received  from  the 
•Spaniards,  who  had  great  reafon  to  wifh  a  change 
c)f  government.  The  emperor,  who  {till  had 
"many  friends,  foon  collected  a  confiderable  army> 
with  which  he  marched  to  the  Southward  to  dif~ 
Judge  His  brother,  who  had  taken  pofTeffion  of 
the  city  of  Morocco  and  its  vicinity.  Muley  Hafem, 
upon  this  occafion,  difcovered  his  ufual  pufil- 
lanimity,  by  resigning  his  command  t©  one  of  his 
generals ;  who,  however,  was  an  acYive  and  enter- 
prizing  officer.  When  the  two  armies  met,  a 
dreadful  engagement  enfued.  The  emperor  dif 
covered  an  uncommon  (hare  of  perfonal  courage, 
intermixing  with  the  enemy  and  fighting  like  a 
private  foldicr.  After  a  fevere  confftft,  he  to 
tally  routed  the  enemy  and  took  pofleflion  of 
Morocco ;  but  not  before  he  had  received  feveral 
wounds,  which  in  a  few  days  proved  mortal. 
During  the  (hort  period  of  life  which  remained 
to  him,  his  whole  attention  was  occupied  in  pu- 
nifhing  the  people  of  Morocco  for  their  attach- 

menr 


A  TO  0TR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C.  329 

ment  to  his  brother.  Between  two  and  three 
thoufand  of  the  inhabitants,  without;  regard  to 
age  or  fex,  were  rnafTacred  in  cold  blood  5  while 
fome  of  them  he  ordered  to  be  nailed  alive  to  the 
walls,  he  tore  out  the  eyes  of  others  with  his 
own  fpurs,  and,  in  bis  dying  moments,  patted 
an  edift  that  fixty  people  of  Mogodore,  among 
whom  were  mod  of  the  European  merchants., 
fhouli  be  decapitated  for  the  affiftance  which, 
he  fuppofed  they  had  afforded  to  his  brother. 
Fortunately  for  them,  he  died  foon  after  ifliung 
the  order,  and  it  was  not  forwarded. 

Pvluley  Yazid,  who  only  reigned  two  years, 
and  at  his  death  was  in  the  forty-third  year  of 
his  age,  was  pofFefTed  of  many  qualities,  which^ 
sf  they  had  been  properly  improved,  would  have 
rendered  him  a  very  ufefui  monarch  in  a  country 
where  the  fovereign  pofTefles  fo  much  influence 
over  his  fubjedls ;  naturally  t^uUA  of  apprckcrtdoi*, 
determined  in  his  conduft,  and  not  eafily  biafTed 
by  the  perfuafion  of  others,  pofTeffing  a  great 
/hare  of  perfonal  courage,  and  a  total  contempt 
of  wealth;  had  thefe  endowments  of  nature  been 
meliorated  by  an  enlightened  education,  they 
might  have  enabled  him  to  have  accomplifhed 
fome  reformation  in  his  fubjefts,  and  perhaps 
led  the  way  to  fome  further  impovement.  Unfor 
tunately  this  prince  too  eafily  gave  way  to  the 
diftate  of  his  paffions,  which  foon  totally  inca 
pacitated  him.  from  carrying  on  even  the  com 
mon  bufmcfe  of  government ;  and  rendered  him 
as  great  a  monlter  as  ever  filled  the  throne  of 
Morocco. 

Since 


330  A  TOUR  TO  MOROCCO,  &C. 

Since  the  death  of  Muley  Yazid,  the  country 
has  been  in  a  very  unfettled  ftate ;  the  people  be 
ing  now  rendered  extremely  cautious  how  they 
eleft  another  monarch.  To  the  Southward  of 
Sallee,  Muley  Hafem,  from  pofTeffing  the  army, 
is  obeyed  as  the  fovereign ;  while  on  the  Northern 
fide  of  the  empire,  Muley  Solyman,  who  from 
his  exemplary  conduft  has  gained  the  efteem  of 
the  people,  is  confidered  as  emperor.  It  now 
refls  for  time  to  determine  which  is  to  be  the  fuc- 
cefsful  candidate. 


T  I  N  1  S, 


